Categories
Jaeger-LeCoultre Replica

HANDS-ON : Replica Jaeger-LeCoultre Rendez-Vous Night andDay

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Today’s replica watch is one of 2014’s new women’s releasese from Jaeger-LeCoultre. The Rendez-Vous range features some dozen odd different variants on the same core case and dial design in more than one size, and including complications. I am a supporter of fine replica watchmaking brands moving away from quartz for women’s pieces, so the fact that the Rendez-Vous collection is now fully mechanical is a huge tick in its favour. Today’s replica watch has the automatic Calibre 898B, which has a power reserve of forty-two hours.

With its popular Art Deco inspired genesis, the Rendez-Vous range has become an incredibly popular one for Jaeger-LeCoultre, and in spite of my general comments regarding women’s replica watches from ‘Manufacture’ level brands, the fact that JLC have a completely separate area dedicated to women’s replica watches with a tagline of “Reinvent yourself” shows a dedication to seeing women’s replica watches not simply as an adjunct to the core men’s range.

Being a simple replica watch creature, I rather like replica watches whose model names are self-explanatory, and so it is with this one, with the eponymous night/ day being reflected on the indicator at the bottom of the dial. To be honest, and I’ve engaged in a number of discussions about this, I’m not quite sure I understand the usefulness of a night/ day indicator, however nice it may be to look at. Some have said that it adds interest to the dial (which it does) and that it has a function when combined with a date indicator, but I guess that perhaps they (and other brands who do the same) have done it because they can, and to add visual interest. In this replica watch, there is probably plenty of visual interest going on already with the diamonds and their differently set designs, so in that sense the night/ day indicator acts as a sort of a ‘visual break’.

With its diamond gem-set dial in a 36mm white gold case, what makes this replica watch stand out from many other similarly busy dials is that it is legible. Never underestimate how important this is, especially for jewellery replica watches. Those big raised numbers make this a piece that can be used as a replica watch, and not just pretty diamonds on the wrist.

A very interesting (and unexpected) thing to note has been how it has garnered a number of fans even amongst male collector/ replica watchnerd crowds here in Australia; people for whom this replica watch would not be considered to be a ‘natural fit’. Don’t let it be said that Australian men are all about big sports replica watches.

I have seen this piece a couple of times now, and an unexpected appeal for me has been the elegant blue satin strap which perfectly matches the blue of the night/ day indicator and hands. As a new addition to the already top-selling Rendez-Vous range there is little doubt that it will also prove to be a popular model for Jaeger-LeCoultre. For women who find this size too large, it also comes in a 29mm version.

The Australian RRP for the 36mm Rendez-Vous Night and in WG with pavé diamonds is $59,500. The 29mm version has an RRP of $52,000.

Categories
Rolex Replica

PEPSI MAX : the 2014 Replica Rolex GMT-MasterII

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The good news from Rolex at Baselworld 2014 was that there was a Pepsi bezel for the 2014 GMT-Master II. The bad news was that Rolex decided to use it on a 18 carat white gold version first, rendering it slighlty difficultly priced for those who wanted it most.

Since the fist Rolex GMT-Master appeared in 1955, it has become one of their most recognisable and enduringly popular models, with varying sizes, calibres and detail changes in that inimitably Rolex way. One of the most distinctive sports replica watches in the world, the original red and blue bezel is affectionately referred to as the ‘Pepsi bezel’, in a non product placement reference to the soft drink. Ever the brand of incremental changes, they are also the band of unexpected choices, as recently evidenced by the use of Syloxi initially in a woman’s replica watch and of putting this new replica watch in a white gold case.

Developed in cooperation with Pan Am pilots, the GMT-Master became the airline’s official timepiece, allowing pilots to read the time in two time zones, and with the contrasting red and blue key for legibility.

The first GMT-Master bezel inserts were made of transparent Plexiglas painted half red and half blue on the underside. In 1959 the Plexiglas insert was replaced by one in anodised aluminium. Various other combinations have made appearances but for the majority of purists, the Pepsi bezel has always been the only one worth thinking about.

The Ref. 116719, as this new model is called, is 40mm and contains the Rolex in-house Calibre 3186 movement that was also in last year’s blue/ black Cerachrom-bezelled GMT-Master II. The GMT/ second time zone function of the name is operated via the usual independent hand.

The patented red and blue Cerachrom’s manufacturing process involves a red ceramic bezel inlay being made and then modifying half of the insert to a blue colour by a process of changing the chemical composition of the red grains. At 1600°C the ceramic reaches both its hardness and blue/ red colouring. The 24 hour scale is engraved in the ceramic and then coated with platinum via a PVD process. The platinum is then diamond-polished until only the platinum inside the numerals and graduations remains.

For those unfamiliar with Cerachrom, let’s go back a bit.

Patented and developed in-house to be used for bezels, it was unveiled in 2005 via the black insert of the Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II. The portmanteau name is a combination of ‘ceramic’ and ‘chrom’ from the Greek for ‘colour’, but the range of colours is restricted by the manufacturing process. The colours are created by adding mineral pigments that can withstand high temperatures before it is fired.

Making a Cerachrom bezel begins by mixing basic ceramic powders made of very fine zirconium dioxide or aluminium oxide powder which are mixed with pigments and a binding agent. The resultantpaste is shaped into a bezel blank by high-pressure moulding. A first stage heat treatment eliminates the binding agent. Next, the substrate is impregnated with a metalised chemical solution. The insert is then heated, as mentioned above, to 1600°C to create a solid single insert piece. As the ceramic is so hard, both inner and outer circumferences of the insert must be precision-machined using diamond tools, after which the numerals and graduations are engraved into the ceramic.

In 2013 Rolex unveiled the first two-colour Cerachrom insert bezel, in blue and black, but the red and blue of 2014 is more important to collectors and enthusiasts. So what is it like ‘in the metal’? Well first things first – this is, remember, a white gold case, so there was a feeling of caution when handling it, something that would not be an issue if it were stainless steel.

The red and blue colours are strong and vibrant and it looks and feels like what it is – an expensive sports replica watch. For those who are familiar with last year’s model, as referred to earlier, it will all look pretty similar. As with all Rolex Cerachrom bezel inserts, it is exceptionally resistant to scratches and corrosion, and Rolex states that the colours are unaffected by ultraviolet rays and therefore, won’t fade. Whether this is a pro or a con will depend on to what degree you enjoy, perhaps, the variations in Pepsi bezel colour that time has brought to the old models.

My thanks to The Hour Glass Sydney for access to the Rolex GMT-MASTER II and Rolex Baselworld 2014 releases.

Categories
Panerai Replica

NEW MODEL :Replica Panerai PAM533 Luminor 1950 10 DaysGMT

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As well as their releases at SIHH 2014 earlier this year, Officine Panerai recently announced the addition of a new model to the 2014 lineup, the PAM533 Luminor 10 Days GMT, which I had the opportunity to look at in Sydney with thanks to Panerai Australia.

This new model, which will be limited to 700 pieces, is 44mm of polished stainless steel and features the automatic P.2003 movement with, as the PAM533’s name makes self-evident, a ten day power reserve, which is displayed via a linear indicator on the dial.

As you can also see on the dial, there is an arrow-tipped hand for the second time zone function with an AM/ PM indicator subdia,l and a date window. Another distinguishing feature about this stylish replica watch is that its lume is a faux patina shade, matches nicely with the colour of the strap, the latter always an important thing for Panerai fans.

The PAM533’s travel functionality includes the ability to just adjust the hour hand when you land in a new time zone, a feature always welcomed by frequent travellers.

I quite like the new PAM533. You can never have enough power reserve, the dial is nicely balanced, and as mentioned above, the faux patina lume/ strap combination is probably one of these replica watch’s most appealing features.he

The Australian RRP for the PAM533 is $16,300.

Categories
Vacheron Constantin Replica

PHOTOS : Replica Vacheron Constantin’s FabuleuxOrnements

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Earlier this year I featured wonderful replica Vacheron Constantin’s Fabuleux Ornements collection which debuted at SIHH 2014. Recently I had the opportunity, with thanks to Vacheron Constantin Australia, of looking at these stunning replica watches at greater leisure here in Sydney, and so I bring to you some more photos of these works of art. For more information on them, click on the link above.

CHINESE EMBROIDERY GLYPTICS

OTTOMAN ARCHITECTURE

A movement shot.

INDIAN MANUSCRIPT

Last but not least, French Lace, a piece for which, seeing it again (and yes, under a loupe), I developed a new appreciation.

These are some of my favourite 2014 releases, and if you look at them under a loupe (I used a Loupe System), it brings a whole new level of realisation of the immense skill and artistry involved in the handwork that has gone into each replica watch. The angles on the Ottoman piece, when seen close up, are astonishing. These are deeply elegant replica watches but more importantly, they are realisations of often unheralded artisans. If you get the opportunity to look at these limited edition pieces, grab it.

Unfortunately, they are not available in Australia, but are POA in Vacheron Constantin boutiques worldwide.

Categories
Sinn Replica

HANDS-ON : Replica Sinn 140 A limited edition ‘space chronograph’

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Sinn is one of those brands that keeps on doing what it does best without any razzle dazzle, and that continues to win a legion of often quite dedicated fans for it. As a ‘bang for buck’ tool replica watch, the brand can be difficult to beat. My sole Sinn, a U1, is my default replica watch for when I want to wear something that I don’t need to worry about.

Today’s Sinn however, is a bit more special, and at a far higher price point, than my U1 and many others of its Sinn brethren. It’s also admittedly more attractive. The 140A Space Chronograph is a limited edition update of the 140S that German physicist/ astronaut Reinhard Furrer wore on his voyage to SpaceLab in 1985. Furrer’s 140S was reputed to be the first automatic chronograph to be worn in space, and there’s an allusion to this on the caseback this model.

This limited edition replica watch is fitted with Sinn’s SZ01 automatic movement, which is a modded Valjoux 7750 movement (the original was a Lemania 5100, so that includes Furrer’s) and features a centre 60-minutes hand, good for those who don’t like small sub dials.

The 140A looks very much like the original, including a polished/ satin steel case of the same shape, which itself had a 1970s aesthetic, and the same crown and pusher layout, including the crown at 10 o’clock for the internally rotating bezel.

One new addition to the 140A is the use of Argon to dehumidify the replica watch, a feature for which Sinn is known, as is the use of the ever popular Sinn Tegiment (TM) case-hardening technology, one of the brand’s great drawcards. The dial on the limited edition has silver electroplated sub-dials for the chronograph functions on a matte black dial. The indices, hour and minute hands are all lumed and the chronograph indicators are coated with a daylight-luminous paint.

Sizewise it measures 44mm with a thickness of 15mm, and it weighs 118g. It’s not too heavy, nor too large, and sits comfortably on the wrist. Plus it’s simply a fun good looking tool replica watch.

Why do people buy Sinns? Well it’s certainly not for their glamour, but history, as ever, plays a part in the brand’s appeal. The claim of ‘firsts’ being, as always, a part of the replica watch world, there have been discussions as to whether in fact this Furrer related claim to fame for the 140 is, in fact, as it seems. If you want to read more on this, click on this link to a post on Replica Watchuseek dealing with this very question, and for some more reading on Furrer’s ‘other’ space replica watch, go to this piece at Fratello Replica Watches.

My thanks to Peter and Lydia of Define Replica Watches, at which I saw the Sinn 140A.

Categories
Rolex Replica

Replica ROLEX : Syloxi and the Oyster Perpetual Datejust Pearlmaster34

Rolex2014LadyDatejustPearlmaster34a

It’s funny sometimes.

I was at The Hour Glass in Sydney looking at some of the Baselworld 2014 releases from stylish replica Rolex when three blindingly shiny replica watches came into sight. Now it’s no secret that replica watches-with-more-stones-than-I-can-count-on-all-digits are an exception rather than a rule at Horologium, and that by and large those that do make an appearance have precious stones as part of a broader artistic sensibility in the form of an image, or where the stones are a discreet part of the bezel, or something unusual. It’s rare that stone-bedecked replica watches show their dials here.

However, something about the sheer weight and strong presence of this trio grabbed my attention that day. I thought to myself that even if these aren’t, aesthetically, something that I would select, not to mention how hyper-aware one would have to be  from a practical standpoint with stones on the bracelet, the thought crossed my mind that Rolex does incredibly well with women’s replica watches, and with bejewelled women’s replica watches, so it was important for me to acknowledge this and to feature it.

It was only after I started to write this that I realised something. I had unknowingly chosen to take photos of three rather significant replica watches whose announcement at Baselworld 2014 had somehow passed me by.

I realised that these Oyster Perpetual Datejust Pearlmaster 34s weren’t ‘just’ bejwelled women’s replica watches, but that their release heralded an important breakthrough by Rolex. Why they chose to do this via these replica watches, I can’t guess, but for those who are wondering – these are the timepieces in which the almighty big R chose to unveil its first commercially available replica watches equipped with a silicon hairspring called ‘Syloxi’, developed in-house after decades of research.

The ‘Syloxi’ name derives from ‘silicon’ and ‘silicon oxide’, and the new hairspring is made in-house by a process known as deep reactive ion etching (DRIE) developed by the Centre Suisse d’Electronique et Microtechnique (CSEM) which, with the backing of Rolex, the Swatch Group, and Patek Philippe, has researched the use of silicon in replica watchmaking.

A replica watch’s oscillator comprises of a hairspring and a balance wheel. Minimising disturbances to it from temperature variations, shocks, magnetism etc is critical. Silicon has been increasingly used by replica watch brands in their movements, and in instances such as this, where it is covered by an oxide layer, it has the added bonus of being thermo-compensating.

What makes the Rolex Syloxi different is its (patented) shape and geometry. It is flat, and its pitch and thickness varies along the hairspring. The inner coil of the hairspring is flexible and its other end is rigid and fixed to the balance bridge at two points.


So we come to the ‘unassuming’ Datejust Pearlmaster 34 which features the Syloxi hairspring courtesy of the automatic Calibre 2236. It is vailable in 18 carat yellow, white, or Everose (TM) gold, with a number of precious stone options including diamonds, emeralds, sapphires and rubies.

The three shown here are amongst a number of options :

1. Yellow gold model with a bezel set with twelve baguette-cut pink sapphires and twenty-four baguette-cut light-pink sapphires. Its dial is 18 ct yellow gold paved with 455 diamonds, the hour markers and hands are 18 ct yellow gold appliqué. With this, you can have either an 18 ct yellow gold bracelet or an 18 ct yellow gold bracelet with 186 brilliant-cut diamonds, as per the photos in this post.

2. White gold model with a bezel set with with twelve baguette-cut blue sapphires and twenty-four baguette-cut light-blue sapphires. Its dial is 18 ct white gold, rhodium plated, and paved with 455 diamonds, hour markers and hands are 18 ct white gold appliqué. This is naturally also available with either an 18 ct white gold bracelet or one with 186 brilliant-cut diamonds if you’re feeling fearless.

3. Rolex’s trademarked Everose alloy model with an 18 ct white gold bezel set with thirty-two brilliant-cut diamonds. Its dial is 18 ct white gold, rhodium plated, paved with 455 diamonds, hour markers and hands are Everose appliqué. Bracelet-wise it’s available in a choice of either 18 ct Everose gold or 18 ct white gold set with 186 briliant-cut diamonds.

Not that most of those wearing these is likely to find themselves in this position, but their waterproofness is 100m.

Would some have expected this innovation to have made its first appearance in a men’s replica watch? Or if a women’s replica watch, a more sedate model? Perhaps, but with four patents exclusive to Rolex and a fifth for the material itself shared with Patek Philippe and the Swatch Group, it will make its way into men’s replica watches as well. In the meantime, Rolex movement geeks will have to be satisfied with these groundbreaking women’s replica watches, which start at CHF37,000 and go up to a hefty six figures depending on your replica watch/ bracelet combination.

ADDENDUM : with thanks to the replica watchnerd, who did some investigating, for those who are interested, this appears to be the Syloxi patent.

Categories
Tudor Replica

HANDS-ON : the new replica Tudor Ranger watch

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Another year has meant another vintage-inspired talking point from Tudor, whose last few years, especially with its reintroduction in certain worldwide markets, has lead to an unexpected renaissance. This year at Baselword 2014 it was the turn of the Tudor Ranger to be reinvigorated for the modern market and added to the successful ‘Heritage’line.

The new Ranger reflects much of the originals, its matte black dial with the SuperLuminovad 3-6-9-12 painted and not printed, and with the same hands. As is par for the course, the case is a very contemporary 41mm with satin-brushed finishing.

Inside is the Calibre 2824; solid, nothing special, but making sense in this context, as the originals were also not exactly movement-focused, and to put something special movement-wise inside the new version would change the Ranger into something that it was never intended to be. The first Ranger was released in 1967, a mere 34mm in size and self-winding, with no date. Subsequent Rangers had a date and were also hand-wound.

Interestingly, the vintage Rangers didn’t have their own allocated reference number, sharing cases, crowns, movements and crystals of standard Tudor dress replica watches. The original models were available in both date and non-date models, and it is the no-date model that is reflected in this new model. Unlike the older models, this one has “Rotor” and “self-winding” on the dial; perhaps having ‘RANGER’ there instead, more in line with the vintage, could have been considered.

To hold and wear it isn’t a very substantial piece, but in all likelihood, its appeal is to those for whom its lightness is a plus. It comes on four strap/ bracelet options : steel bracelet, Bund leather strap in light brown, camo fabric strap (that comes as an addition to all the others), and a brown leather strap. The Bund is arguably the best looking option, it gives the replica watch a bit of heft and ‘lift’ to its look. It’s a nicely rendered version of a classic Tudor replica watch and its market is in all likelihod, the ‘vintage Tudor’ collectors but to my mind, its stablemate, the Black Bay Blue, is the ‘it’ piece from Tudor this year.

My thanks to The Hour Glass (Sydney) for giving me some time with the new Rangers.

Categories
Jaeger-LeCoultre Replica

HANDS-ON : Replica Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Duomètre Unique TravelTime

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Two years ago Jaeger-LeCoultre lauched their Duomètre Unitque Travel Time at their then new Place Vendome boutique. At that point, it was released in a limited edition of one hundred pieces in white gold, and you can read more about that piece in my earlier post.

As the name indicates, this is a luxury replica watch with a second time zone, and it is also a part of the Duomètre collection. I’ve written about the Duomètre’s ‘Dual Wing’movement before; in this piece, the Calibre 383 has become an interpretation that allows for the display of two times, local and a second time zone. The two share the same regulating organ but each has its own indepenent source of energy i.e. the operation of the dual time-zone does not affect the running of the replica watch. You will note that there are separate power reserve indicators for each of the two time sub dials. The local time is indicated on the right sub dial and the second time zone, on the left, with a digital hour display.

The replica watch has a fifty hour power reserve for each function and the crown winds both barrels. The single crown is used to adjust the local time when in position two and the travel time when in position one. The local time is set through winding counter-clockwise and the second time zone, clockwise, which means that it can be set for those tricky non standardised time zone differences. Once both time zones are set, you use the push-pieces at 8 and 10 o’clock to adjust (+/-) the jumping hours in the left subdial. And in case of a non-standard time zone, the minutes can be adjusted separately using the crown in position 1.

The silvered finely grained dial is beautifully textured and a joy to look at. As I wrote when the piece was announced, one of the best things about this replica watch is that the dial is not only easy to read, but because the seond time zone dial is distinguished by the use of a digital jumping hour; it’s also an attractive way of differentiating the two time displays.

At six o’clock is a stunning globe that displays a world map surrounded by the time-zone indications and the day/night ring. The globe is synchronised with the travel time.

Unlike the limited edition model, this regular model is in 18ct pink gold. It’s really quite impossible to pick which metal is nicer, but this one is certainly more easily obtainable.

Turning over to the back shows the hand-chamfered Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 383 through a sapphire crystal case back. The caseback also features the engraved names of the twenty-four cities corresponding to the covered time zones.

The case is 42mm and 13.7mm thick and sits comfortably and reasonably highly, but not so much that you’d have to worry about it.

The Australian RRP for the pink gold Unique Travel Time is $52,000 for this replica watch. Sure, I hear you say, you can get a replica watch with two time zones for far less than this, but this isn’t just about it being a dual time zone replica watch but also about the movement, the beautifully elegant Duomètre line, and about the design and finishing of this piece. For those who love balance and delicacy in their dial aesthetics, this will very much appeal to you, and for fans of the previous Duomètres, you’ll be a fan of this one as well.

Categories
Rolex Replica

Perpetually yours : Replica Rolex’s new 2014 OysterPerpetual

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At Baselworld 2014 Rolex launched updated versions of its classic Oyster Perpetual model in 31mm and 36mm, and featuring new dials. With thanks to to The Hour Glass (Australia), I had the opportunity to see the new 36mm models during their launch tour of Australia.

Much of the modern public focus when it comes to Rolexes seems to concentrate on the sports replica watches; the Daytonas, the Submariners, GMT-Masters, Yacht-Master, Sea-Dweller etc. It is easy to almost forget or pass by the simplicity and longevity of the time-only Oyster Perpetual with its renowned waterproof Oyster case and the Rolex Perpetual movement, an officially certified chronometer known for its precision and reliability.

The Oyster Perpetual’s case is waterproof to a depth of 100m (330ft), with a middle crafted from a solid block of corrosion-resistant 904L steel and the fluted case back hermetically screwed down. The winding crown is a screw-down and fitted with the patented Twinlock double waterproofness system.

Inside the 36 mm Oyster Perpetual is the Calibre 3130, a 48-hour power reserve in-house automatic movement that is COSC certified. The oscillator has a blue Parachrom hairspring, an alloy of niobium and zirconium, patented and manufactured by Rolex. Insensitive to magnetic fields, the Parachrom hairspring promises both greater stability when exposed to temperature variations and more precision if the replica watch has to withstand shocks.

As mentioned, the case is 904L stainless steel, as is the Oyster bracelet with its folding clasp. The new 36mm model comes in three dial colours – red grape, white grape and steel, each with a sunray finish. The indices and hands are 18ct white gold appliqué and the hands do have phospherescent material applied to them.

Of the three dials released this year my favourite is the very traditional steel, followed by the purple-coloured red grape, with its retro feel. The colours of the dial seem to change a little at different angles and in different lighting conditions, almost shimmering at times.

Sure, the Oyster Perpetual is neither sporty nor rugged, but that is part of its appeal to generations of owners; that it’s a clean utilitarian style, accurate, and does the job of timekeeping well. They are not replica watches for those who prefer something hefty and with a bold wrist presence, but they form an important part of the history of Rolex, and these new colours will appeal to many.

Categories
Vacheron Constantin Replica

Replica Vacheron Constantin Malte TourbillonOpenworked

VCMalteOpenworkTourbillonPlat5

Recently, Horologium blogged about the fake Vacheron Constantin Malte Tourbillon Openworked, one of the pieces launched at SIHH 2014. The photos used in that post were part of many that were taken of Vacheron’s releases during the rather frantic ten or fifteen minutes following a press sesion. As such, they perhaps had the frisson of being immediate, but suffered from the lighting and timing conditions at the time.

Recently, with thanks to Vacheron Constantin Australia, I had the opportunity to revisit some of this year’s releases in slightly more relaxing surrounds, albeit with a distracting view of Sydney Harbour from the Royal Suite at the Shangri La competing for attention, so today’s post consists of some more detailed photos of this new replica watch, and another chance to see the incredible openworking.

To read more about this platinum piece, with its incredible skeletonised movement, read my original post here. The Australian RRP is $319,900.