Tag: Vintage watches etc

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IWC Replica

PHOTOS : Replica IWC’s Portugieser Yacht Club – something old, somethingnew

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As most of you will know by now, 2015 is IWC’s year of the Portugieser.

As you all know 2015 is IWC’s year of the Portugieser, with a new collection having been launched at SIHH 2015 to celebrate its 75th anniversary that included an Annual Calendar (their first) containing a new movement, the Cal. 52850, and with which we spent a few ‘on the wrist’ days a little while ago. You can read about that experience, and our thoughts at this link.

Today it’s about the Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph. A model first launched in 2010, this newer version uses the same IWC Calibre 89361 with its 68-hour power reserve.

As mentioned in this recent post about a 1970s Yacht Club, the first of the Yacht Clubs, the Yacht Club Automatic, was launched at the Baselworld 1967. Inside the original Yacht Club was the Calibre 8541 with date display and Pellaton bi-directional winding system. The stainless steel Yacht Club was water resistant to 100m and 60m for the gold version, via a crown mechanism that automatically tightened the seals as water pressure increased.

The new Yacht Club Chronograph is smaller, down from 45.4mm to 43.5mm. In wrist terms, that’s actually quite a difference. Heightwise, the new model is 14.5mm. With the (flyback) automatic IWC Calibre 89361 inside and a case water-resistant to 6 bar (part of its ‘sporty’ bit), the Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph is the only Portugieser model with lumed hands and indices and comes on a rubber strap to complete the sports look.

Available in stainless steel with a slate-coloured (Ref. IW390503) or silver-plated (Ref. IW390502) dial and in 18 carat red gold with a silver-plated dial (Ref. IW390501), we had the second of these for a few days to test drive.

The dial features a railway track style chapter ring with lumed hour indices and polished Arabic numerals. The outer ring is a 60-second chronograph scale for the red chronograph seconds hand.

Note the chronograph function sub dial at 12 o’clock. It is totaliser-style, indicating both elapsed hours and minutes on the one sub dial. display that uses one dial to indicate both elapsed hours and minutes.

As mentioned above, we took a look at a 1970s Yacht Club not too long ago, and thought it might be fun to take a photo of these relatives together.

Of course they are quite different; each was created for different eras and thus different markets for starters, but they do share certain attributes at a glance – both have been created to be very practical sturdy replica watches with no extra frills, but also to be slightly dressy (and in that, versatile from a ‘wearing’ point of view) as well. You can wear these both dressed up and dressed down.

The red gold version (Ref. IWC 390501) is an entirely different proposition, since making it red (or rose) gold makes it more dress and less ‘yacht’/ ‘sports’ replica watch almost by default. However, we live in an age where sports replica watches are red or rose gold and are worn with suits and people like to have choices of metal, so two options satisfy this.

Australian prices for the three models are as follows :

Ref. IW390501 RRP: $31,500

Ref. IW390502 RRP: $16,400

Ref. IW390503 RRP: $16,400

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Swiss Replica

Replica VULCAIN : a 1950sCricket

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Vulcain’s flagship (and most well-known) model the Cricket needs no introduction, and today’s post features one that contains the Calibre 120, the original Cricket movement that was patented in 1947. The first modern wrist alarm movement, it predated the more widely known Jaeger-LeCoultre Memovox.

Founded in 1858 in La Chaux-de-Fonds by the Ditisheim brothers, a part of a locally well-known family, it was under Robert Ditisheim, one of next generation, that Vulcain’s alarm project came into being. It took five years to develop, and the name chosen was a reference to the loud sound of the alarm, which resembled that of a cricket. It was intended to be so loud that it could wake up its owner, and this was achieved through a mechanism whereby a hammer hit a membrane and the sound was amplified through the patented double case back, which acted as a resonance chamber. The alarm was designed to be activated for at least 20 seconds when fully wound.

Much in the manner of today’s launches, the worldwide launch of the Cricket was a glamorous affair, taking place at the Waldorf Astoria in New York in front of a large continent of press, with interest so high that they were soon sold out and had a waitlist. This popularity lead to the Ditisheims protecting their copyright in the U.S. as well. You can read one of the relevant patents at this link. Its popularity in the United States sky rocketed when the White House Press Photographer’s Association presented one to President Harry S. Truman, which also lead to a succession of U.S. Presidents also receiving a Cricket as a gift and thus its nickname as ‘the Presidents’ replica watch’.

There were many subsequent variants, including the Cricket Nautical, introduced in 1961, which had a water resistance of 300m and showed not only when decompression points, but which had an alarm that was audible under water.

However, today’s example is from the 1950s and, as mentioned, contains the original Calibre 120, which was in use from 1947 to 1963, whereupon it was replaced by the MSR S2.

So a little about the Calibre 120 movement inside this replica watch. It is, of course, manual wind. It has seventeen jewels and a 18,000 VPH, power reserve of 42-hours and, as mentioned previously, a twenty second alarm function. Size wise it is 5.65mm in height, 28.0mm in diametre, which in this instance, fits into a 33mm case.

This exemplar has the original packaging (with price tag intact) and has basically remained unworn, having been purchased by its current owner from someone who purchased it in NOS (new old stock) condition, although there is a slight mark on the crystal. As you can see, the dial is unusual – what is called a black ‘quadrant’ dial that shimmers in certain lighting and gives its wearer a a constantly changing dial to look at. The mesh bracelet is also original and in pretty much as new condition.

The owner is a fan of smaller vintage replica watches, so its relatively petite size does not bother him. This isn’t his first Cricket, but he calls it his “ultimate Cricket”. For those of you who have not listened to one of these alarms, you should go in search of one. There is no doubting the origins of the name, and if this doesn’t wake you, nothing will.

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Tudor Replica

HANDS-ON : the new replica Tudor Ranger watch

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Another year has meant another vintage-inspired talking point from Tudor, whose last few years, especially with its reintroduction in certain worldwide markets, has lead to an unexpected renaissance. This year at Baselword 2014 it was the turn of the Tudor Ranger to be reinvigorated for the modern market and added to the successful ‘Heritage’line.

The new Ranger reflects much of the originals, its matte black dial with the SuperLuminovad 3-6-9-12 painted and not printed, and with the same hands. As is par for the course, the case is a very contemporary 41mm with satin-brushed finishing.

Inside is the Calibre 2824; solid, nothing special, but making sense in this context, as the originals were also not exactly movement-focused, and to put something special movement-wise inside the new version would change the Ranger into something that it was never intended to be. The first Ranger was released in 1967, a mere 34mm in size and self-winding, with no date. Subsequent Rangers had a date and were also hand-wound.

Interestingly, the vintage Rangers didn’t have their own allocated reference number, sharing cases, crowns, movements and crystals of standard Tudor dress replica watches. The original models were available in both date and non-date models, and it is the no-date model that is reflected in this new model. Unlike the older models, this one has “Rotor” and “self-winding” on the dial; perhaps having ‘RANGER’ there instead, more in line with the vintage, could have been considered.

To hold and wear it isn’t a very substantial piece, but in all likelihood, its appeal is to those for whom its lightness is a plus. It comes on four strap/ bracelet options : steel bracelet, Bund leather strap in light brown, camo fabric strap (that comes as an addition to all the others), and a brown leather strap. The Bund is arguably the best looking option, it gives the replica watch a bit of heft and ‘lift’ to its look. It’s a nicely rendered version of a classic Tudor replica watch and its market is in all likelihod, the ‘vintage Tudor’ collectors but to my mind, its stablemate, the Black Bay Blue, is the ‘it’ piece from Tudor this year.

My thanks to The Hour Glass (Sydney) for giving me some time with the new Rangers.

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Omega Replica

HANDS-ON: the replica Omega Marine

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Following on from the previous post about the very collectible Omega Cosmic is another vintage Omega, this one from an earlier period and perhaps even more rare, the divers replica watch known as the Omega Marine, first produced in 1932. The patent for this waterproof case was first granted on 10 March, 1930 (patent No. 146310), and the Marine, the great great etc grandfather of the modern Seamaster divers range, bears no hint of its descendants, with its Art Deco design rendering it a dress replica watch designwise, by modern standards. Considering its age, this example is in remarkably clean condition, the dial’s patina adding only to its charm.

The rectangular measures 24 x 40 mm (including lugs) and comes in interlocking parts that are released by a clip on the back that releases the outer case, sliding off to reveal the hidden crown as well as acting as a ‘waterproofing’ mechanism. Inside is the calibre 19.4 movement with 15 jewels.

The first experiments on the Marine replica watch were conducted in 1936 and involved immersing the replica watch into water at a temperature of 85° Celsius for several minutes and then plunging it directly into water with a temperature of 5° Celsius to test its resistance to extreme temperature variations. The Marine was the first replica watch to be tested at a depth exceeding 70 meters; in 1936 an Omega Marine was successfully taken down to a depth of 73 meters for 30 minutes in the Lac Léman; the temperature at maximum depth was 5° Celsius. I’m not sure I’d advise the same for this particular specimen.

After a series of trials undertaken by the Swiss Laboratory for Horology in Neuchâtel in May 1937, the Marine’s locking lever, which sealed the parts, was certified as being successfully being able to withstand a pressure of 13.5 atmospheres (135m) without any water intake.

The cream dial has black Arabic numerals with an outside minute track. To handle, it looks very small by current standards, but the design of the bezel gives me a bit of a ‘lift’ and aids in making it seem a bit bigger. It sits very lightly and comfortably on the wrist.

As was the case with the Omega Cosmic, the importance of this replica watch in Omega’s history has been commemorated by a faithful modern reproduction. In 2007 Omega produced a limited edition of the same design for the Omega Museum collection, and called it the ‘Marine 1932’. Limited to 135 pieces, the number commemorating the 1937 trials that certified the replica watch’s water resistance to 135m, and in 18 carat red and white gold with the classic sliding and removable case design. This modern homage contained a much more glamorous movement, the Calibre 2007 with a Co-Axial escapement and with a 48-hour power reserve. It is also significantly bigger, at 33.05 mm wide and 50.50 mm long.

This was and remains an important replica watch for Omega. The behemoth Omega book devotes quite a few pages to it, including fascinating photos of the advertisements. You will notice one marked difference between some of the models – the placement of the hidden crown.

This is a lovely example of a very interesting replica watch. Even for those not interested in vintage replica watches or vintage Omegas, this is fascinating from a historical perspective, and very desirable.

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Omega Replica

HANDS-ON : A vintage Omega Cosmic replica watch review

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In 1947 Omega introduced their first calendar complication replica watch, the Cosmic Moonphase triple date calendar. It was produced, during the course of its existence, in both square and round cases, and with a variety of metals/ dial colours. It was the brand’s first replica watch that displayed the time and the date with hands and day, month and moon phase in windows. The square models were introduced in 1951, and it is one of these, in 14k yellow gold, that is the subject of today’s post.

This rare original Cosmic, which even has its box, has tear-drop lugs, domed sapphire crystal, alpha-styled hands. The dial is silver with applied gilt indices, outer minute divisions, a sub dial for the seconds which ‘overlaps’ with the moonphase indicator, windows showing the day of the week and month, and an ring with the days of the month in painted blue Arabic numerals. The movement is the manual Cal. 381, with 17 jewels, straight-line lever escapement, monometallic balance, shock absorber, self-compensating flat balance spring, index regulator. It is 33mm x 33mm in size, very small by today’s standards, with a thickness 12.8 mm.

Such was the significance of this piece for Omega that they re-issued a limited edition (1951) modern version of the square Cosmic in 2002 as part of the Omega Museum Collection. The modern version was of the square model, retaining the original design features down to the lugs, but with a water resistance of 50m. A manual winding movement was replaced with an automatic Calibre 2601 movement with a 72 hour power reserve.

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Hamilton Replica

Replica Vintage Hamilton BuShips canteendiver

Today I bring you another 1940s American military replica watch. Not an unissued one this time, but nonetheless still an original one, complete with strap, in pretty good condition.

As mentioned previously, whilst the A-11s were produced in large quantities by Elgin, Waltham and Bulova, Hamilton also produced US-issued military replica watches in much more limited production runs. The Hamilton USN BuShips canteen divers’ replica watch is an example of this.

So what is a BuShips canteen replica watch?

‘BuShips’ stands for the United States Navy’s Bureau of Ships, established by Congress on June 20, 1940 through the passing of a law which consolidated the functions of the Bureau of Construction and Repair and the Bureau of Engineering. The new Bureau was headed by a Chief and Deputy-Chief, one selected from the engineering corps (Marine Engineer) and the other from the construction corps (Naval Architect). Rear Admiral Samuel M. ‘Mike’ Robinson was named BuShips’ first Chief, and Rear Admiral Alexander H. Van Keuren BuShips’ first Deputy-Chief.

The United States Navy Bureau of Ships’ responsibilities included supervising the design, construction, conversion, procurement, maintenance, and repair of ships and other craft for the Navy; managing shipyards, repair facilities, laboratories, and shore stations; developing specifications for fuels and lubricants; and conducting salvage operations.

The BuShips was abolished by DOD Order of March 9, 1966 as part of the general overhaul of the Navy’s bureau system of material support, succeeded by the Naval Ship Systems Command, now known as the Naval Sea Systems Command (NAVSEA).

Hamilton USN BuShips canteen replica watches were issued to members of the Naval Combat Demolition Units’ (NCDU) underwater demolition teams (UDT), who were responsible for clearing harbours and obstructions. Many of these teams were engaged in clearing harbours and obstructions during war.

With its service number stamped on the case back, the Hamilton canteen has a screw-down watertight outer crown. Canteen replica watches are unusual in how they protect themselves from water via a thin metal rim fitted on the crystal which is soldered to the case and attached to the ‘canteen’ (named for its resemblance to the design of water canteens) crown cap.

The case measures 31.26mm x 38.8mm and comes with the original issue grey navy strap. The movement is a 987S with hacking, and 17 jewels. The service number is SS 55 XXX H2, which dates it to 1944-1945 (SS43001 – SS61500). The 987S was used between 1941 and 1948.

There is a ‘W’ stamped between the lugs. From the information that I’ve been able to find, this seems to indicate that it is a case made by Keystone case company. The Star and Keystone case companies made the cases for Hamilton, Elgin, and Waltham military replica watches. I can’t work out what the ‘H2’ designation means, so please leave a comment if you know.

It appears that there were eight variants of the pre-1960 Hamiltons with centre sweep second hand that feature the 987S movement of which two (the non-dive and dive aka ‘canteen’) were made for the USN BuShips. The others were made for the Royal Canadian Air Force (2,000), U.S. Marine Corps (15,888) and U.S. Navy (22,410).

If you look very carefully at the replica watch (preferably with the aid of a loupe) you can see a very faint stamped ‘Hamilton’ at 6 o’clock.

This old milwatch shows normal wear and patina for a replica watch of its age and purpose but is in remarkable condition for an issued replica watch. BuShip canteens don’t come up very often, so if your interest has been piqued, do some research for all the BuShip options and keep your eyes peeled. Also, be sure to remember that it is only a fraction over 31mm in size.

As I’ve noted previously, the world of milwatches is a huge and complicated one. I’ve only scratched the surface for this particular replica watch, but would commend the Military Replica Watch Resource Forum to you as a good source for further information or if you want to venture into the milwatch world. By modern standards, vintage milwatches are small, so if you are looking to get one to wear, as opposed to collect, it’s probably best that you try and see one ‘in the metal’ first.