Tag: Jaeger-LeCoultre

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Jaeger-LeCoultre Replica

HANDS-ON :Replica Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Squelette PinkGold

A number of months back without much fanfare, Jaeger-LeCoultre released a mini-collection of Master Ultra-Thin limited edition pieces that combine skeletonisation and enamelling. Their first big public outing was at Replica Watches & Wonders 2015. There are a total of four references in the new collection – two grand feu enamel decorated models in white or pink gold and two gem-set models which are by virtue of the gems, slightly thicker. We had the chance to see one of the four, the pink gold.

Skeletonising their forty-year old manual-wind Calibre 849 to a thinness of 1.85mm (making this 119-piece movement the 849A SQ), the new 38mm-sized replica watches are a staggeringly scant 3.6mm for their thinnest iteration like this pink gold model. The gem-set models are slightly thicker, at 4.7mm. One advantage of using an old movement is that has been tried and tested.

It is impossible to avoid mentioning the Piaget Ultra-Thin 900P which is a hair’s breadth 0.05mm thicker, at 3.65mm. You may recall a photograph I took comparing the Piaget with a coin. Although regrettably I wasn’t carrying around 1 CHF with me (that comparison would make sense), in any event, here is another coin comparison photo. HKD1. This has granted the Squelette a new record.

The circular band of the case is separate from the lugs, which are secured by four screws. A further four screws hold the movement. The thinness is also achieved by having the movement on the same plane as the enamelled chapter ring (which comes in blue or burgundy). The gem-set versions have an engraved mother of pearl chapter ring.

To handle this was quite an experience. I know that I’ve said this before but when presented with ever-thinner replica watches, it is really something to behold. It’s just incredible how replica watchmakers are able to ‘flatten’ movements to this degree and yet have a wristwatch that is not as fragile as it looks. That all being said, it does feel every bit as thin as it is, and requires a bit of getting used to. You do notice its presence on the wrist, thank goodness, but even for those used to wearing ultra thin replica watches this degree of thickness/ thinness is still something quite different. It is not for everyone, and if you are interested it is, as always, best to try one one first.

Each of the four new references will be produced in a limited series of 100 pieces on alligator straps. Prices start at USD58,500 for this pink gold model and go up to USD75,000 for the white gold gem-set piece. For information on all four references, go to this link.

[Horologium attended Replica Watches & Wonders 2015 by invitation of Richemont Australia]

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Jaeger-LeCoultre Replica

Replica WATCHES WONDERS 2015 : Jaeger-LeCoultre Geophysic True Second and Geophysic UniversalTime

When the talk started about the Geophysic 1958 model being not a one (or rather two) off but part of a new collection, people wondered a bit. The 1958 was a successful and well-received homage/ reissue for Jaeger-LeCoultre that could have sold out several times over, but to turn it into an entire collection? Would it dilute the original meaning? Would new models just, somehow, seem a bit ‘wrong’?

A quick recap.

In 1958 Jaeger-LeCoultre commemorated the International Geophysical Year by creating a robust utilitarian replica watch that was protected against magnetic fields (600 gauss), shock and water resistant, as well as extremely accurate. Fitted with Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 478b, the Geophysic chronometer was presented to the commanders of the Nautilus and Skate, the first atomic submarines to go under the North Pole, with a gold Geophysic chronometer specially engraved for the occasion. Only 1,290 of these were made, and it remains a highly desirable and sought after piece.

Watches & Wonders 2015 showed that there was no need to be overly concerned, although obviously any future models will again be subject to as much scrutiny as these new pieces have been already. Note that Jaeger-LeCoultre have already made these available in their boutiques and dealers, to coincide with their official launch.

First up is one of the most talked-about replica watches in Hong Kong, the True Second, which I keep on absent-mindedly calling it the ‘dead second’, but I am working on this, I promise. This replica watch has been buzzing around the online and offline replica watch worlds already. For those who wanted the Geophysic 1958 but didn’t mange to get it, this is not a bad alternative at all. If I dare say so, I prefer this to the Geophysic 1958.

Whilst the True Second and the more complicated Universal Time may appear at first glance to be pieces that could be at home in another collection line, with their movements they fit here, because of their emphasis on functionality but within the context of movement and precision being key. Precision was criticial to the original Geophysic and is the heart of these new models, through the use of a ‘true second’.

As mentioned, the original Geophysic was launched in 1958 to coincide with the International Geophysical Year, so it was always intended as a functional precision instrument with endurance and accuracy as key. This has again been reiterated with the True Second.

Available in either stainless steel or pink gold (the former is my pick), it has but the time and date. The seconds hand is what it’s all about, with the traditional smooth seconds hand of the mechanical replica watch swapped for the one second tick change that is common to true/ dead beat seconds replica watches (called as such because of the ‘dead’ space between seconds) and more familiarly seen in quartz replica watches. Dead/ true beat replica watches are something of an anomaly in mechanical replica watches, more commonly seen amongst smaller brands such as Arnold & Son, Habring2 and De Bethune. It is a sign of replica watch geekery for Jaeger-LeCoultre to have done this. A sign of replica watch geekery that has made people quite excited.

So, what’s it all about?

It’s about the Calibres 770/ 772, the movement at the base of the True Seconds and Universal Time respectively. Developed in-house to meet the historical expectations of its predecessor as mentioned above – precision, reliability and an automatic movement, both new movements contain the ‘true’ or ‘dead’ beat seconds. There are two gear trains : one for the escapement and one that releases every second for the dead beat – a second hair spring that releases every second.

The roots of this new movement are in the Gyrolab balance of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Master Compressor Extreme Lab 1, which had been produced to show off what they can do. Six patents and the Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 988C that is able to run for years without any wear or deterioration, purportedly even at -40°C.

What had been most discussed at the time of the Extreme Lab 1’s production was the lubrication-free escapement, which people wondered whether was going to make its way into other replica watches. The balance that looks like two arcs (or the Jaeger-LeCoultre logo) was apparently serendipity rather than by design, although it has been turned into as such. With less friction leading to better oscillation and no oil, they’re now calling the descendent the ‘Gyrolab balance’, and is in these replica watches.

Jaeger-LeCoultre’s head replica watchmaker does a final check

But it’s not just about the technical aspects, it’s also about the dial, particularly for the True Seconds, which is a classic clean design.

Hour markers are silvered grained, appliqued, and the Super-LumiNova-filled baton hands are polished and faceted, something that features in other Jaeger-LeCoultre dress replica watches. In contrast, the sober dial is matte, giving it a very understated appearance. This replica watch is really not for show, it hides its achievements in a very conservative guise.

Finishing wise there is satin-brushed finishing for the side of the case, and polished finishing for the bezel and lugs. A really nice touch is the lumed hour marker dots around the chapter ring between the dial and the bezel, which adds a bit of visual interest as much as night time functionality.

Another precision point to note apart from the movement is that when the crown is pulled out you can set the hour hand independent of the minute hand, with the date adjusting as necessary. Good for travellers. Good for those who like exactitude.

The Universal Time shares the same basic movement (both with a 40-hour power reserve) and case design, but despite the added world time complication (making it Calibre 772, with a thickness of 7.13mm versus the 770’s 6.57mm height), the replica watch’s height is minimally larger, at 11.84mm as compared to 11.8mm for the True Second. The Universal Time case, however, is 1.5mm larger than the True Seconds, with 39.6mm for the True Second and 41.6mm for the Universal Time.

The elegant blue planisphere of the world (stamped, translucent lacquer, with the continents brushed for a matte finish) uses radiating lines indicating time zones, with Greenwich Mean Time indicated via a red dashed line. The line with an asterisk next to a city (and there are twenty-four cities in total) is a quick easy-to-read way of indicating winter and summer time. In fact you don’t have to re-synchronise cities, the earth and cities do not move. Once you set the world timer, that’s it. The time zones are always the same, all that changes is your reference time zone (the ring between the planisphere and the cities). Night is indicated by the dark blue half.

Comparison with the Memovox International

These new additions to the Geophysic Collection have already been much discussed in the last few days for their design and the ‘true seconds’ movement. Functional and yet with technical skill at their heart, they are available now, and are interesting and good looking ‘watchy’ replica watches that will no doubt have broad appeal.


[Horologium attended Replica Watches & Wonders 2015 by invitation of Richemont Australia]

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ON THE WRIST : Replica Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin1907

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I recently had the opportunity to spend some ‘wrist testing’ time with Jaeger Le-Coultre’s Master pink gold Ultra Thin 1907 courtesy of Jaeger-LeCoultre Australia. This was a replica watch I’d already seen; if memory serves me correctly I’d crossed paths with it twice. At this point I should probably confess that whilst I’d definitely noticed it, it hadn’t made any dominant impression, as there were other replica watches from JLC that had captured my attention at the time, plus I still had its Pt Jubilee sibling in my thoughts.

There was also something else.

I have great admiration for ultra-thin replica watches and the astonishing technical achievements that go into their creation. However, I am unaccustomed to wearing very thin replica watches, preferring to feel some presence, some heft (yes even for dress replica watches). Perhaps there is an unconscious bias on my part, and not just in terms of what stays in my memory when I am shown a number of replica watches, most of which are not ultra thin.

Comparison with the Jaeger-LeCoultre Memovox International

With this in mind, when I was offered the chance to be able to wear the 1907 for what was meant to be a couple of weeks but ended up being for a month, I jumped at the opportunity. After all, what better way to test one’s horological biases than to confront them head on?

THE REPLICA WATCH

This pink gold Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra-Thin 1907 was introduced at SIHH 2014. Sharp lines, stylish, thin. 4.05mm thin. Thinner than the pocket replica watch that inspired it. Not just any old pocket replica watch, but a 1907 timepiece that created a new record as the thinnest pocket replica watch movement put in production, a record that still stands.

So, how did it come into being?

In 1903 French replica watchmaker and engineer Edmond Jaeger (1858-1922), who was known for his instruments for aviation, shipping and automobiles, issued a challenge to Swiss replica watchmakers – that they bring into production the ultra-thin calibres he had invented. The gauntlet having been thrown down, Jacques-David LeCoultre (1875-1948), LeCoultre’s founder’s grandson, decided that he was the man for the job.

Not content with just doing a passable job of meeting the challenge, he created many movements, including minute repeaters, chronographs and double complications. His most famous creation was the 1.38mm thin LeCoultre Calibre 145, which ended up being in production for the astonishingly long period of 1907 to the 1960s, but which totalled approximately four hundred in number. The rapport and mutual respect between the two men lead to their partnership and birth of Jaeger-LeCoultre in 1937.

So, back to this replica watch, its descendant.

The overall height of the Master Ultra Thin 1907 is 4.05mm; the movement is 1.85mm, which leaves only 2.2mm for the glass, hands, dial, and case back. The hands are only 0.16mm away from the crystal. Think about that.

The use of a knife-edge case on this replica watch is part of what gives it such a particularly svelte figure, but of course there’s the movement, the Calibre 849. There are 123 parts in this 1.85mm thick calibre, and when fully wound it has a power reserve of 35 hours.

At the time of its introduction by Jaeger-LeCoultre, the Master Ultra Thin Jubilee was the thinnest manually-wound wrist replica watch in the world. It has since been beaten by Piaget’s Altiplano 900P which in turn has just been beaten by (you guessed it) Jaeger-LeCoultre, with a newly released a 3.6mm thin Master Ultra Thin Squelette, whose non-set model is 0.05mm thinner than Piaget.

But seriously, when we get down to this level of thinness, there’s a point at which it almost becomes a blur.

The dial is white with a finely grained surface and features printed minute dots and single stick hour markers, with double stick markers at 12, 3, 6 and 9 o’clock. This was a point raised by a few people who saw this replica watch during my loan period – why printed? Well it’s all about the ‘thin’ thing. Applied markers, which are arguably more attractive, will add height. More height means no record for thinness, plus it is the ‘Master Ultra Thin’, not the ‘Master Thin’.

The dauphine hands are polished on one side and micro-blasted on the other, giving them an attractive ever-changing look when light (particularly sunlight) hits them.

WRIST TIME

During the month or so during which I had the Master Ultra Thin 1907 I wore it about 90% of the time, a more than long enough period to give one a pretty good feel for it.

The start of my 1907 adventure was, unexpectedly, one of constant concern, a state that lasted for the first 36 hours straight, but which re-appeared a couple of more times during the first week.

Why? Well I had not expected an adjustment period.

What happened was that I needed to get my head around wearing such a thin replica watch. I was simply not used to it and, daft though it may sound, irrational thoughts went through my head about it snapping in half, so to speak. Not literally of course, as I knew that there was no risk of that, but it taught me that I have been conditioned to certain type of wrist wear, and it taught me that such habits can run deep.

For the time during which I had it on loan I also wanted to see how replica watch people responded to it. Quite a few local collectors and enthusiasts had the opportunity to see the 1907, at GTGs and a Jaeger-LeCoultre dinner. What was interesting was that many of them had the same immediate reaction (to mine) when I handed it over – worrying (the word ‘snap’ was mentioned a few times) until they put it on their wrist, let it sit there for awhile, and became accustomed to it.

It proved to be a broadly popular piece amongst both men and women. For the women, the thinness meant that even if they were normally wearers of women’s replica watches they found this replica watch both attractive and comfortable, even for those with petite wrists. For a photographic example of this, click on the link above to the dinner post.

CONCLUSION

In wearing the Master Ultra Thin 1907 there were several things that I thought about that weren’t related to the technical aspects. One of these was versatility. I know many people who own multiple replica watches, but I also know many who only have the replica watch that is on their wrist, and one of the most important things for them is that it can be worn when dressed up or down, with suits, evening outfits, or jeans.

The reality is that most people who own a replica watch only own a single replica watch, so if they are going to invest five figures in it, they will want to feel that it is suitable for most of their wardrobe and lifestyle. I say ‘most’ because swimwear, diving gear, heavy gardening work involving powered equipment etc probably require a different sort of replica watch. I may of course be wrong, but I’d wager that most people who only own the one replica watch tend to choose a dress one.

I wore this 1907 with a variety of outfits, in particular to see if I would feel that it was too much to wear with jeans and sneakers. My instinct at the outset had been that it would be far too dressy to wear with (black) jeans and sneakers, that it would somehow not feel quite ‘right’. I do wear classically-styled dress replica watches with jeans, but they are ones with more heft.

Unexpectedly, it did not feel somehow ‘inappropriate’ to wear it with casual clothing. It stood out more and its dressy elegant presence was felt more strongly when I wasn’t in jeans, but I realised that I was enjoying it so much that it was all about that, and not about my outfit.

This is a very comfortable replica watch to wear once you become accustomed to its thickness; in fact you almost forget that it is on your wrist. This is not a bad thing. It is probably important, nonetheless, to bear in mind that this has been worn during a Sydney winter, and thus wearing long sleeves. Had it been during the 30+ degree heat of Summer, in short sleeves, I may have been more conscious of having it on my wrist, of its thinness.

This is a replica watch with a discreet presence, but it generates interest when attention is drawn to it. Although we appear to be veering towards slightly smaller replica watches again, ultra thins are still an anomaly, so when its presence is noted, people are intrigued and want to try it on.

If you’re looking for a thin, elegant luxury replica watch that you will be able to wear for years without looking dated then the Master Ultra Thin 1907 is one that you can put on your short-list. There was a boutique white gold version that was also released, and if I was to choose one from the two metals I would probably choose the white gold because I find white metals more versatile, but the pink gold version has a lovely warm glow to it, and I found myself missing it after its return.

The Australian RRP is $21,200.

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Jaeger-LeCoultre Replica

Replica JAEGER-LECOULTRE : Rendez-Vous IvyTourbillon

The Rendez-Vous collection, which has been a rather huge success story for luxury replica Jaeger-LeCoultre, has also been characterised by some special releases of complicated models such as a tourbillon, perpetual calendar and, last year, the Ivy Minute Repeater, which made its informal debut in Sydney during a visit by CEO Daniel Riedo.

Earlier this year at SIHH 2015 we were fortunate enough to see the latest in the ‘haute’ part of the Rendez-Vous line, the Ivy Tourbillon, which has now been launched (and thus the embargo lifted) during the Shanghai Film Festival (13-21 June 2015), of which Jaeger-LeCoultre is a supporter.

The key to these special pieces is the combination of a complication and an art, a craft – what Jaeger-LeCoultre call Métiers Rares® (Rare Handcrafts). In this new model the ‘art’ part is again the use of the ivy motif, with another stunning result.

When the minute repeater was launched last year, one of the reasons given for the choice of ivy was that it was in part a reference to the Vallée, the diamonds representing the first frozen ice crystals on the autumn leaves announcing the arrival of winter, but it appears that they have used an ivy decoration as far back as 1890 on a pocket with with a crimson enamelled case back which had a diamond-set ivy pattern and more recently, a 2008 piece unique jewellery set featuring ivy.

In this piece, the ivy seems to (by design, presumably) grow out of the tourbillon. A nice touch.

Rather bemusingly, Jaeger-LeCoultre have referred to this new piece as having “bucolic charm”. With two types of guilloché on the dial and leaf veins, enamelling and lace work decoration, this is about as far away from ‘bucolic’ as I can imagine. It is, however, indeed charming.

Inside the 39mm white gold case is the automatic Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 978 that is also used in the simpler Ivy-free Rendez-Vous tourbillon, with a 45-hour power reserve. There are, not unexpectedly, diamonds set in the bezel, crown and buckle, and it comes on a matching satin strap.

The dark richness of its deep colour makes this a more muted piece than the Ivy Minute Repeater, but it is equally stunning. The ivy design is, no pun intended, really growing on me, but one final thought :

Dear Jaeger-LeCoultre,

Please keep these Ivy pieces special by not releasing too many models with this motif and dial.

Regards,

Horologium

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JAEGER-LECOULTRE : Master Grande Tradition à RépétitionMinutes

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Jaeger-LeCoultre recently launched a new pink gold 39mm Minute Repeater for which we had the opportunity to see the (then embargoed) prototype during SIHH 2015. An addtion to the Master Grande Tradition line, the Master Grande Tradition à Répétition Minutes may remind you a bit size and movement wise, of the Ivy Minute Repeater.

So with this complication clearly not being new to high quality replica Jaeger-LeCoultre, what is special about this one? Well it’s the first automatic minute repeater in the Master Grande Tradition collection.

Minute repeaters are obviously all about the sound and how it is transmitted from the gongs through the replica watch.

For the Hybris Mechanica Grande Sonnerie (2009) traditional hammers were replaced by what are called ‘trebuchet hammers’, and this new minute repeater uses these patented hammers, which strike two crystal gongs connected to the sapphire crystal via the ‘heel’. To read about trebuchet hammers, go to this link.

The ‘heel’ (or ‘foot’, people seem to vary in terms of their preferred body part) of the gong has a rather unusual placement – it is welded to the sapphire crystal on the top of the replica watch so that it can act as a ‘louspeaker’ to amplify the sound of the gongs. It is that small blank ‘plaque’ in the photo. Bear in mind that this was prototype that we saw; there has been text (‘Sonnerie’) seen in official photos that have been subsequently released. Whether or not you like this ‘signage’ will be subjective. You will note that on the Ivy, the text is branding.

What is interesting however, is that if you look back through some of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s minute repeaters you will notice other appearances of similar plaques/ feet/ heels, but situated in a variety of places both in front and on the rear of the replica watch. I admit that when I saw different placements for replica watches using the same movement I could not work out why – surely, I thought, if it is the same movement and if it is about sound magnification, then this ‘heel’ would be in the same/ very similar location in all the replica watches containing the same movement?

Well it seems that this is not the case (no pun intended) and it also reinforces why, for so many reasons, I could never be a replica watchmaker – the differences are because the acoustics of each minute repeater model vary according to the materials used (especially the composition of the dial) as well as any additional features. So given that minute repeaters are replica watches that are individually ‘tuned’, as it were, the positioning of the heel will vary even between this model and the Ivy Minute Repeater. These gongs with their heel/ crystal attachment have been used since the Master Minute Repeater (2005).

As was the case with the Ivy, the repeater function is activated not by a traditional slide which is often the visible identifier that a piece is a minute repeater, but by a pusher, adding to the slimness of this piece. The rationale given for this is that the pusher is designed so that once activated, it cannot be re-activated whilst operational, say by an over inquisitive toddler, thus preventing any damage to the movement.

In terms of the sound, and again it needs to be emphasised that this was a prototype piece, it was reasonably loud and clear even with constant background noise from a nearby presentation. We listened to two Jaeger-LeCoultre minute repeaters during this meeting and both preferred the Master Grande Tradition Grande Complication soundwise but as a replica watch, this new one. If you want to hear the same movement but in its finished elder sibling (better than listening to the prototype), click here.

As mentioned, the Cal 942 movement used in this new model is the same as that used in the Rendez-Vous Ivy Minute Repeater which Sydney was fortunate to first to see before its formal launch at Replica Watches & Wonders 2014.

The Ivy Minute Repeater clearly isn’t for everyone, not least of all because of pricing limitations, but for those liked the movement and who want a cleaner aesthetic, this just might be the one for you.

The Cal 942 is a 26 mm in diametre, 7.17mm thick, consists of of 437 parts, has a 28,800VPH, and a power reserve of 40 hours. It is finished simply, but perhaps this is to match the simplicity of the dial.

Is 39mm (and 12.1mm thick) too small? Most definitely not, and it is of a size where it will be accessible to a greater range of people, as well. Is it too big? Well there are definitely those who think that classic dress replica watches are preferable perhaps 1-2mm smaller than this but really, there’s not that much in it for this particular replica watch when it comes to how it will look on the wrist.

The case is a combination of polished and brushed parts. Its dial is silver grained which gives it some good textural interest, and its hour markers are applied pink gold. The dauphine hands are faceted, which means that one side is polished, the other brushed. It is very classic, elegant, and understated.

Pricing is 140,000 EUR (ex VAT), which makes it a fraction under AUD200,000 (ex GST).

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Replica JAEGER-LECOULTRE : the Master goesblack

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Although not their most glamorous or technically impressive pieces, two new releases by Jaeger-LeCoultre to their Master range at SIHH 2015 may end up being their most widely talked about. Why? Because they are new versions of two of the brand’s most accessible pieces, and for those who have a preference tending towards dark dials, they are a very welcome addition.

First up is the new Master Ultra Thin Moon, which now comes in stainless steel with a black dial. This piece joins its light dialled elder siblings in the same 39mm case with a moonphase indicator with concentric date display on the lower half of the black dial. The open caseback shows the Jaeger-LeCoultre automatic Calibre 925 with a power reserve of 38 hours.

The ‘blackness’ of the dial is quite matte and elegant and sleek. I’d even go out on a limb and say that this new black dialled version may be more versatile than the light dialled models, transitioning from an outfit of black jeans and casual top to a suited up evening. It comes no a black alligator strap with a double-folding buckle. There is already a red gold model with a slate dial that is dressy but arguably less versatile. Of the four iterations of the Master Ultra Thin Moon, this new one is hands-down my favourite.

The second release of note is the new Master Control Ultra Thin Date. Introduced last year in pink gold, it is now available in stainless steel, which means that it will prove to be an attractive proposition price wise for those wanting to get their first Jaeger-LeCoultre.

A solid everyday type of fashion replica watch, it contains the automatic Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 899 movement with a powr reserve of 38 hours and also comes on a black alligator strap with a double-folding buckle. The blackness of the dial is similar to that of the Master Ultra Thin Moon but has the sense of being a much more casual piece. With this change to a black dial there is an almost vintage military replica watch feel to it, something that I thought I was alone in thinking, until I asked one or two others.

These two pieces are solid new additions to the Jaeger-LeCoultre stable  at their ‘bread and butter’ end of their collection spectrum. They are appealing variants, and I will be surprised if they don’t walk out the door.

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Replica JAEGER-LECOULTRE : The Rendez-Vous Ivy MinuteRepeater

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Last week Jeager-LeCoultre CEO Mr. Daniel Riedo paid his first visit to Australia. One of the purposes of his visit was to talk about the Maison’s women’s replica watches, and a dinner was held at Quay Restaurant in Sydney in honour of this. For those who are unfamiliar with it is not only one of the world’s top restaurants but has a view facing both the Sydney Opera House and Sydney Harbour Bridge. Perhaps he was captivated by the view, but for whatever reason, those of us who were lucky enough to be there that night were privileged to be the first in the world to look at and handle, the Rendez-Vous Ivy Minute Repeater, formally launched this week at Replica Watches & Wonders 2014. To those who follow me on instagram, you will have already seen some photos of it, from that night.

During the last few years Jaeger-LeCoultre has released a number of complicated Rendez-Vous models such as a tourbillon, Celestial and Perpetual Calendar. The paucity of complications, let alone grande complications in women’s replica watches, is a rather big hole that is just desperate to be filled, and the new Ivy Minute Repeater is an unexpected and splendid addition to their highly successful Rendez-Vous Collection. Amongst those attending the dinner that night were guests who had never experienced a minute repeater, and they learned to count the hours and minutes by the gongs. It is difficult to explain why repeaters and sonneries retain an almost mythical level of magic amongst many replica watch collectors and enthusiasts that goes beyond ‘mere’ admiration of the technical skill that goes into them. Perhaps there’s a touch of the sheer wonderment that it can be done at all, and in such a small form.

The new white gold Ivy Minute Repeater uses the new Calibre 942A which is automatic, has a 28,800 VPH, and a 43-hour power reserve. The new movement was designed to adapt to a 39 mm case, which possibly makes it a unisex size. Imagine it on a blue alligator strap instead of the blue satin one, perhaps…

One of the key aspects of minute-repeaters is, of course, to do with how sound is transmitted from the vibrating gongs through the replica watch, as the case, dial, movement and caseback all affect the amplification and nature of the sound. In a conventional minute repeater the gongs are attached to a metal foot that’s part of the movement plate. That means that when the replica watch is on the wrist, sound has to travel through the movement plate, dial and crystal, as well as laterally through the flanks of the case. Here is a short activation, and my thanks to Mr. Daniel Riedo for his assistance with this.

On the Hybris Mechanica Grande Sonnerie traditional hammers were replaced by what are called ‘trebuchet hammers’, and the new Rendez-Vous Ivy Minute Repeater has two patented trebuchet hammers which strike two crystal gongs connected to the sapphire crystal harder and just once, producing a loudspeaker effect. To read about trebuchet hammers, go to this link. It is also equipped with a silent regulator to reduce any peripheral sound disturbance of the mechanism.

There are two distinguishing features of this new piece : firstly, the repeater is operated by a pusher and not the traditional slide. Secondly, it has a safety system which ensures that even if the button is pressed again while the minute repeater is already in action, the mechanism does not start working again – thereby preventing any damage to the movement. A minute repeater is impressively well and good, as they say, but how about its looks? The dial is white gold with a sunburst guilloché motif, grand feu enamel is then added, to achieve the blue, which represents the night sky above the Vallée de Joux. The ivy is also a reference to the Vallée; with the use of diamonds representing the first frozen ice crystals on the autumn leaves announcing the arrival of winter. The ‘vine’ like numerals, which become a part of the decoration, are also incredibly attractive.

There are also more diamonds on the bezel and the repeater pushpiece, as well as the crown, with a total of 548 diamonds, of which 255 are on the dial. When I first viewed this piece it was at night in a light-dimmed restaurant, and the diamonds were quite reflective. I expressed certain views at the time about the popularity of adding diamonds to women’s replica watches, including concerns regarding how ‘bright’ it would be during the daytime.

When I saw it again the next day, during what could only be described as a perfect sunny Sydney day, I was somewhat taken aback, and had to retract certain views that I had expressed. It was a far more discreet (yes I mean ‘discreet’, whilst acknowledging that an enamel and diamond bejewelled replica watch isn’t inherently discreet and will never be as discreet as a piece sans precious stones) than it was the previous night, and it was surprisingly and remarkably wearable for day time. It really is a replica watch that comes into its own in daylight, as it is only then that the dial seems to come alive. The diamonds on the bezel, pushpiece and crown, however extravagant, also seemed to make a lot more sense in the light of day. This was quite unexpected.

This is a very attractive and intriguing replica watch and above all, the fact that there is a minute repeater in a women’s replica watch collection (and it was designed and conceived by a team of women) is itself worthy of many cheers. It will be produced in a limited edition of 88 pieces with a price of 202,000 EUR without VAT.

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Jaeger-LeCoultre Replica

HANDS-ON : Replica Jaeger-LeCoultre Rendez-Vous Night andDay

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Today’s replica watch is one of 2014’s new women’s releasese from Jaeger-LeCoultre. The Rendez-Vous range features some dozen odd different variants on the same core case and dial design in more than one size, and including complications. I am a supporter of fine replica watchmaking brands moving away from quartz for women’s pieces, so the fact that the Rendez-Vous collection is now fully mechanical is a huge tick in its favour. Today’s replica watch has the automatic Calibre 898B, which has a power reserve of forty-two hours.

With its popular Art Deco inspired genesis, the Rendez-Vous range has become an incredibly popular one for Jaeger-LeCoultre, and in spite of my general comments regarding women’s replica watches from ‘Manufacture’ level brands, the fact that JLC have a completely separate area dedicated to women’s replica watches with a tagline of “Reinvent yourself” shows a dedication to seeing women’s replica watches not simply as an adjunct to the core men’s range.

Being a simple replica watch creature, I rather like replica watches whose model names are self-explanatory, and so it is with this one, with the eponymous night/ day being reflected on the indicator at the bottom of the dial. To be honest, and I’ve engaged in a number of discussions about this, I’m not quite sure I understand the usefulness of a night/ day indicator, however nice it may be to look at. Some have said that it adds interest to the dial (which it does) and that it has a function when combined with a date indicator, but I guess that perhaps they (and other brands who do the same) have done it because they can, and to add visual interest. In this replica watch, there is probably plenty of visual interest going on already with the diamonds and their differently set designs, so in that sense the night/ day indicator acts as a sort of a ‘visual break’.

With its diamond gem-set dial in a 36mm white gold case, what makes this replica watch stand out from many other similarly busy dials is that it is legible. Never underestimate how important this is, especially for jewellery replica watches. Those big raised numbers make this a piece that can be used as a replica watch, and not just pretty diamonds on the wrist.

A very interesting (and unexpected) thing to note has been how it has garnered a number of fans even amongst male collector/ replica watchnerd crowds here in Australia; people for whom this replica watch would not be considered to be a ‘natural fit’. Don’t let it be said that Australian men are all about big sports replica watches.

I have seen this piece a couple of times now, and an unexpected appeal for me has been the elegant blue satin strap which perfectly matches the blue of the night/ day indicator and hands. As a new addition to the already top-selling Rendez-Vous range there is little doubt that it will also prove to be a popular model for Jaeger-LeCoultre. For women who find this size too large, it also comes in a 29mm version.

The Australian RRP for the 36mm Rendez-Vous Night and in WG with pavé diamonds is $59,500. The 29mm version has an RRP of $52,000.

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Jaeger-LeCoultre Replica

HANDS-ON : Replica Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Duomètre Unique TravelTime

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Two years ago Jaeger-LeCoultre lauched their Duomètre Unitque Travel Time at their then new Place Vendome boutique. At that point, it was released in a limited edition of one hundred pieces in white gold, and you can read more about that piece in my earlier post.

As the name indicates, this is a luxury replica watch with a second time zone, and it is also a part of the Duomètre collection. I’ve written about the Duomètre’s ‘Dual Wing’movement before; in this piece, the Calibre 383 has become an interpretation that allows for the display of two times, local and a second time zone. The two share the same regulating organ but each has its own indepenent source of energy i.e. the operation of the dual time-zone does not affect the running of the replica watch. You will note that there are separate power reserve indicators for each of the two time sub dials. The local time is indicated on the right sub dial and the second time zone, on the left, with a digital hour display.

The replica watch has a fifty hour power reserve for each function and the crown winds both barrels. The single crown is used to adjust the local time when in position two and the travel time when in position one. The local time is set through winding counter-clockwise and the second time zone, clockwise, which means that it can be set for those tricky non standardised time zone differences. Once both time zones are set, you use the push-pieces at 8 and 10 o’clock to adjust (+/-) the jumping hours in the left subdial. And in case of a non-standard time zone, the minutes can be adjusted separately using the crown in position 1.

The silvered finely grained dial is beautifully textured and a joy to look at. As I wrote when the piece was announced, one of the best things about this replica watch is that the dial is not only easy to read, but because the seond time zone dial is distinguished by the use of a digital jumping hour; it’s also an attractive way of differentiating the two time displays.

At six o’clock is a stunning globe that displays a world map surrounded by the time-zone indications and the day/night ring. The globe is synchronised with the travel time.

Unlike the limited edition model, this regular model is in 18ct pink gold. It’s really quite impossible to pick which metal is nicer, but this one is certainly more easily obtainable.

Turning over to the back shows the hand-chamfered Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 383 through a sapphire crystal case back. The caseback also features the engraved names of the twenty-four cities corresponding to the covered time zones.

The case is 42mm and 13.7mm thick and sits comfortably and reasonably highly, but not so much that you’d have to worry about it.

The Australian RRP for the pink gold Unique Travel Time is $52,000 for this replica watch. Sure, I hear you say, you can get a replica watch with two time zones for far less than this, but this isn’t just about it being a dual time zone replica watch but also about the movement, the beautifully elegant Duomètre line, and about the design and finishing of this piece. For those who love balance and delicacy in their dial aesthetics, this will very much appeal to you, and for fans of the previous Duomètres, you’ll be a fan of this one as well.

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Jaeger-LeCoultre Replica

HANDS-ON : Replica Jaeger-LeCoultre Memovox Tribute to Polaris1968

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Seven hundred and sixty eight.

This is the number that were produced by luxury replica Jaeger-LeCoultre in 2008 of the immensely popular re-edition of the 1968 (as opposed to the other 2008 re-edition of the 1965 version) Memovox Polaris diving replica watch. A 42mm stainless steel piece with sweep centre seconds hand, date and alarm, it contained the Calibre 956, lumed hands and markers, and a bi-directional bezel operated.

In line with its 1968 parent E859, this 2008 re-edition had an acrylic crystal that added to its ‘modern-vintage’ look. This was an incredibly well received replica watch and now, as was the case then, it is still a difficult replica watch to find, albeit it now not on the new market.

This, Horologium readers, is a prototype of the 2008 re-edition.

For those who do not know, the original 1960s Memovox Polaris diving replica watch had a patented triple-back case to improve the quality of the alarm and for water resistance. With a total production run of 1714 pieces between 1975-1970, the original rates highly not only for collectors of vintage Jaeger-LeCoultres, but also for diving replica watch enthusiasts. This is one of those ‘milestone’ replica watches for which the much abused word ‘iconic’, whose misuse should, perhaps, incur a financial penalty every time it is trotted out with little thought as to its actual meaning, is actually appropriate.

As you can see, even on this prototype there is a diving helmet engraving, as well as the all important ‘out of series’ absence of a number.

This is a well-loved and well worn piece, as befitting a prototype, and it was a very unexpected pleasure to be able to shown it earlier this year by its owner and Pierre-Etienne Durand, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Brand Manager (Australia & NZ), who suggested that we might wish to see what was on the wrist of the gentleman who was in the room with us. To see any replica watch prototype is special, but to my mind, to cross paths quite randomly ‘in the wild’ with one that is still being worn by someone who was involved with it, is even more special.