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IWC Replica

HANDS-ON :Replica IWC’s Deep Three divewatch

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Horologium was recently invited by IWC to attend the Australian launch of this year’s Aquatimer collection, whose worldwide launch was at SIHH 2014 in January. As I am covering the event for another publication, I’ll not be covering it on the blog, although you will find some photos from the day on the Horologium instagram account.

The first part of the Sydney launch was a ‘scuba diving experience’, during which participants were given an Aquatimer to wear. I ended up with an Aquatimer Automatic, but today’s post is about the replica watch that I’d fantasised about the possibility of wearing for the occasion but which, due to its rather limited production status, unfortunately was not available for us to even play with as a desk diver– the Deep Three.

The Deep Three is, as the name indicates, the third of series of mechanical depth gauge diver’s replica watches. The first was the GST Deep One (1999) and the second, the Aquatimer Deep Two (2009). Like the internal/ external ‘Safe Dive’ bezel system in the Aquatimer collection, the depth gauge on the Deep Three is the latest chapter of IWC’s dive replica watch development. During a dive, the blue depth indicator moves to show current dive depth, whilst the red  indicator remains at the maximum depth attained, down to a maximum of 50 meters.

The Deep Three’s case is made of titanium, measuring 46mm x 16.5mm. Apart from the depth gauge, the basic features of the Deep Three are a date display, hacking seconds, two-tone SuperLuminova luminescent hands (depth, dive time, minute and seconds displays in green, hour hand and indices are blue), screw-in crown, the SafeDive system of course, engraved caseback, and IWC’s quick-change strap system. Inside is the automatic IWC calibre 30120 with a forty-two hour power reserve.

The pressure metering system of the depth gauge is housed in a pressure converter/ crown case at 9 o’clock. There are micro holes in the convertor’s cover, so that when water pressure acts on the membrane it pushes a pin towards the interior of the case. This moves the gauge’s two indicators – as mentioned, the blue depth indicator moves to show current dive depth, the red maximum depth indicator remains at the maximum depth attained during the course of the dive.

The reset button for the maximum depth indicator is at 2 o’clock. The titanium cover at 4 o’clock conceals the sliding clutch mechanism for the new rotating bezel system. The internal rotating bezel, which engages in precise one-minute intervals, can only be moved anticlockwise.

Oh and of course we must not forget the water resistance – 10 bar.

Thanks to its titanium case, the 46mm Aquatimer Deep Three feels far less bulky than its size would indicate, and it feels like somewhere between a 44-46mm on the wrist.

It was the centre of IWC attention in Geneva, and it’s obvious why. It’s a funky, legible and practical piece of high-end dive replica watchmaking.

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Swiss Replica

EVENT : Replica Peter Speake-Marin collection inSydney

Earlier this year I caught up with Peter Speake-Marin at the Geneva Time Exhibition and saw some models from his current collection that I had not yet had the opportunity to see. These pieces and more, including the Triad which was released this year, recently made their way to Perth, Melbourne and Sydney as part of a regional tour by Dariush Djavahri, Peter Speake-Marin’s Area Commercial Manager for Asia and the Middle East and Josh Reed, their Australian agent, who flew in from Perth for the event.

In attendance were four local Peter Speake-Marin owners and, by the end of the evening, perhaps two future ones…?

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The dinner was held in a private room at the Park Hyatt, which is situated on the harbour opposite the Sydney Opera House.

Sydney has never seen a more complete collection of Peter Speake-Marin replica watches in one place than there was on that night. What this meant was that it was possible not only for people to see and ask questions about a wide range of models at all price points, but that the all important ‘in the metal’ experience was possible for everything from the Resilience to Serpents to the Spirit MkII, the Triad and more.

Having seen some of the models (see my link above for my thoughts on them), for me the two models I was interested in looking at were the Spirit Mk II DLC and the Triad. When each of these was released, I felt a bit uncertain about my response to them, particularly the Triad. The Spirit Mk II had me pondering at the time because of the use of DLC, which seemed so at odds with Peter Speake-Marin’s much more cleanly dress replica watch oriented horological past. I had heard that it was the most popular replica watch at the Melbourne dinner two evenings before, so I was curious to see what the Sydney guests would make of it.

The first thing to note about the DLC model is that there is a very different feel to it ‘in the metal’ than in photos. Although very much a sporty replica watch, it is more muted in impact, less a case of a model simply being DLCd. At 42mm and not too thick or weighty, it feels very comfortable on the wrist and was an unexpected drawcard for some of the guests. There was pretty much a consensus, with which I concurred, that it worked better than we thought it would based on the photos we had seen. A pleasant surprise. Plus the lume basically rocked. If I’ve said it once I’ve said it too many times – where possible, see, handle and try as many replica watches as possible. What appeals in photos may not turn out that way when you handle it, and vice versa.

The Spirit Mk II DLC’s dial is a single piece, with the use of Super-LumiNova for the excellent lume. Because the numbers and markers are large, when lit up the contrast with the matte black dial is impressive. The dial itself is made by creating a three dimensional (negative) mould of the dial (including the hour/ minute markers, railroad chapter ring, PSM logo and topping-tool and text) which is then filled with lacquer and Super-LumiNova. After this mould is set it is then bonded on a dial plate.

Spirit Mk II

As mentioned in the earlier post, the Spirits are the entry points to the Peter Speake-Marin brand, models that were, in some ways, the result of consumer demand. You get all the very distinctive hallmarks of the Speake-Marin replica watch such as the case, lugs etc at a lower price point. However, the lower cost naturally means that something had to be changed – the movement. Whether or not this is of importance is obviously up to the individual owner and their focus when it comes to replica watches. In the case of the Spirit Mark II DLC, the movement is instead the Technotime TT738 with a five day power reserve.

Perhaps the most classically Speake-Marin piece there that evening, and my favourite of the night, was the enamel dialled Resilience. It’s pure Peter Speake-Marin, with gorgeous enamel dial and, on this night, including the very dressy rose gold version. This is the sort of replica watch that doesn’t date, and is pretty much guaranteed to be a crowd pleaser.

Onto the second piece I was curious to examine for the first time – the Triad. In his words, the philosophy of this replica watch is described thus – “Once might be lucky, twice a coincidence, but three times is a pattern. Three is a number heavy with symbolism and meaning; three encompasses beginning, middle and end; birth, life, and death; past, present and future.”

This is the first piece in a new Mechanical Art collection, the eponymous ‘traid’ referring to three time indications on the open worked dial, each with their classic Foundation hands over the topping tool shaped wheels, and forming a triangle.

On the bottom right of the dial ring is the text “3 NOTES 1 MEANING”. Again in Peter Speake-Marin’s own words, this is described as follows – “In music, a Triad is a three-note chord. Three notes played simultaneously to provide a single sound rich in emotion, depth and meaning and this is exemplified by ‘3 NOTES 1 MEANING’”. The Triad contains what is known as the EROS 2 movement and comes in a limited edition of 88 in stainless steel or with an 18K red gold bezel in a 42mm sized case.

In seeing the Triad for the first time, I admire the workmanship in it, but as a replica watch to wear, I remain a Speake-Marin traditionalist, with my preferences tending towards serpent hands, the HMS and Resilience.

My thanks to Dariush and Josh for a very enjoyable evening filled with replica watches from one of my favourite brands, and to the Hyatt for the excellent service and food.

You’ll notice an unusual strap amongst all the leather. It is a brand that, coincidentally, came to my notice just a few weeks before this evening – Suigeneric NYC. They are a young brand offering hand waxed cotton straps who have, as you can see, engaged in a collaboration with Peter Speake-Marin. This is a very sturdy NATO-style straps, and will be the subject of a separte post.

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Jaeger-LeCoultre Replica

EVENT : A jubilee evening with replica Jaeger-LeCoultre

D60_2443 A few weeks ago Jaeger-LeCoultre Australia hosted a dinner in Sydney to introduce some of releases in this, their 180th anniversary year. Held at Sake Restaurant, a mix of collectors, enthusiasts and others were given the opportunity to try and learn about a range of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s current range.

The replica watches presented that evening by Pierre-Etienne Durand (Brand Manager, Australia and New Zealand) and Sam from Jaeger-LeCoultre covered men’s and women’s pieces, dress and sports replica watches. As did the JLCs worn by guests. Without further ado, here are some highlights from the evening. All photos not marked ‘Horologium’ were taken by lumiere photographie.

Some of the replica watches on the menu.

The Master Ultra Thin Perpetual is in a 39mm and 9.2mm thin case available in three iterations – stainless steel, white gold or rose gold. The MUT Perpetual uses the ultra thin (4.72mm) Calibre 868 automatic movement with a 38 hour power reserve.

This is a beautifully sized replica watch with a nicely balanced dial; the subdials do not feel cramped. As well as the hours, minutes and seconds, the date is at 3 o’clock, month at 6 o’clock, year in a window between 7 and 8 o’clock, day of the week at 9 o’clock and the moonphase at 12 o’clock. The perpetual calendar indications are adjusted via a single corrector at 8 o’clock. The hands are dauphine and the hour markers the same metal as the model.

Next up is one of my favourites and a popular replica watch that evening. The 44mm Deep Sea Chronograph Cermet (ceramic particles and aluminium topped with a strong ceramic coating), about which you can read more here.

The next piece is the 42mm Duomètre à Chronographe containing the manual wind Calibre 380A and a relative of this replica watch.

The basic idea is to separate the normal time keeping function of the replica watch (hours, minutes, and seconds) from the other function, hence ‘duo’. You can read more about this at the link above.

My pick for the evening, and arguably the most popular amongst the group that night, the Master Ultra Thin Jubilee 39. This is a piece that you don’t get the full impact of in photos. It is really quite a stunning replica watch. Light as a feather to wear, and incredibly elegant.

One of the pieces released this year to celebrate 180 years of Manufacture Jaeger-LeCoultre, this model is produced in a limited edition of 880 pieces. Although ‘only’ 39mm in diametre (4.05mm thin), it sits a bit larger than this. Guests that evening were constantly surprised to hear that it was under 42mm. Inside is the 1.85mm thin manual wind Calibre 849.

Next is the Master Grande Tradition Tourbillon Cylindrique à Quantième Perpétuel Jubilee. Inside the 42mm platinum case are a flying tourbillon, perpetual calendar and moonphase, courtesy of the new Cal. 985 automatic movement which has a 22ct RG oscillating weight with a representation of the gold medal awarded to Jaeger-LeCoultre at the 1889 Paris Exhibition.

A classic Jaeger-LeCoultre, the Master Date, a triple date with moonphase in a 39mm case and utilising the automatic Calibre 866.

A Reverso Duo.

Some of the pieces worn by guests.

Some vintage pieces.

One or two other brands worn on the evening.

A historical Jaeger-LeCoultre comparison.

Three Ultra-Thin Reversos, including a boutique-edition 1931 Rouge as previously written about here. Although from the men’s range, their slim lines proved popular with female guests as well.

If you would like to read more about some of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s 2013 releases then go to this post from earlier this year.

My thanks to Pierre and Sam for a most enjoyable evening.

Categories
Oris Replica

LAUNCH EVENT : Oris Royal Flying Doctor Service LimitedEdition Replica Watch

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You may recall my previous post on the new Oris Flying Doctor LE. I now have some ‘in the metal’ thoughts about it to share with you, thanks to an invitation to its launch at Gregory Jewellers in Sydney.

This new limited edition (2000 pieces) replica watch is the first commercial partnership entered into by the Royal Flying Doctor Service. The brainchild of Peter Borghouts, Oris Brand Manager of Australia, 5% of the production cost of each replica watch will go towards the Flying Doctors.

For the specifications and details about this new model, go to my original post. Each replica watch comes with a leather business card wallet and a localised card with emergency numbers. Handy and relevant.

‘In the metal’, this is a fairly robust and solidly constructed replica watch. Although 44mm it sits more like many 42-43mm replica watches, so for those unaccustomed to a 44mm size and who have not previously handled Oris replica watches, don’t be overly concerned about the size. As with the brand’s designs in general, this model was designed with the intention of being functional and no-nonsense, and it meets these criteria well. Of the options available, my favourite is the one on the leather strap.

As a part of the launch, there was a speech by a RFDS pilot who shared some anecdotes from his long career. A theme that wove through his stories was a reminder of the sheer size of this continent, and of how without the knowledge of there being emergency medical assistance available, there are swathes of land which would probably be otherwise unoccupied, as many people, particularly families with young children, would simply feel too isolated from help.

The Royal Flying Doctor Service Limited Edition is available through Oris authorised dealers worldwide. The price for Australia starts at AUD1,900 for the leather strap version.

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Bell&Ross Replica

Replica Bell Ross Baselworld 2012 exhibition :Sydney

The brand of Bell & Ross is most well-known for its aviation themed ‘flight instruments’, those distinctively large square cases designed like aircraft cockpit instruments. What is less known are their ‘vintage’ collection, introduced in 2010, and the ‘marine’ line, the third of their collections.

Last week I was invited to the opening of an exhibition of Bell & Ross replica watches at Gregory Jewellers featuring many of their 2012 Baselworld releases, and had the opportunity to try many B&R replica watches that I hadn’t seen before, including some much more classically styled and of a size more suited to those who find their ‘instruments’ a bit bulky.

Bell & Ross’ ‘vintage’ collection has two lines within it – ‘Heritage’ and ‘Original’, both with quite different aesthetics.

To start off with is, of course, the WW2 Regulateur Heritage. A 49mm sandblasted steel case with PVD finish, its bi-directional notched bezel’s ‘teeth’ are particularly large, allowing for ease of movement with gloves, and rendering it very distinctive. It’s actually quite a slim replica watch, so despite its size, it sits easily on even smaller wrists.

Also from Baselworld 2012 are the BR01 Alimeter, BR01 Horizon, and BR01 Turn Coordinator (left to right above). These form part of Bell & Ross’ more ‘experimental’ approach to the instrument range, and are limited editions of 999. One of them was actually a 1/999, which was an unexpected sighting.

The Turn Coordinator uses a disc system to tell the time, instead of hands; the wearer reads the time where the numbers line up via the vertical line that goes down the middle. There is a disc in the centre showing seconds, and the half-point cutoff looks like a plane (wings, tail etc) from the rear . The middle represents the pilot’s plane, and the original instrument on which this is based is relied upon by pilots to display the rate of turn, roll, and to keep the plane co-ordinated.

The Horizon mimics, as the name indicates, the cockpit instrument which monitors the aircraft’s position relative to the horizon, called the ‘attitude indicator’. The bar in the middle represents the pilot’s plane in the original instrument.

Unlike the other two, the BR01 Altimeter looks more conventional in comparison, with a large date display at 3 o’clock where the altimeter, which shows height above sea level, would normally appear.

If you look at the original instruments after which these are named, you will see the resemblance.

Another ‘flight instrument’, the BR01 Radar. Three circles showing hour, minute, seconds.

The 42mm BR03-02 Military Ceramic below is a matte khaki colour. This comes on a matching rubber strap and with a second khaki synthetic fabric strap with Velcro closing.

Two other quite different but still military-inspired replica watches in the exhibition are the WW1 Argentium Ruthenium and lighter dialled Argentium Silver have lugs reminiscent of the fixed wire lug military trench or officers’ World War One wristwatches. They are 41mm, manual wind, and very appealing elegant dress replica watches with beautiful grey alligator straps. These were some of my favourites from the exhibition.

The replica watch that I was drawn to the most was the WW1 Chronograph Monopoussir Heritage, which is the same case design, but in a 45mm size. It is automatic and, as the name indicates, a single-button chronograph, with 60 second and 30 minute subdials for this function. The chrono button is smooth and easy to use, and for me, more attractive than the stiffer chrono pushers used for the ‘instruments’.

Some of the other replica watches on display.

The Bell & Ross exhibition is on at Gregory Jewellers, 67 Castlereagh St., Sydney until 18 November 2012.