Tag: Vintage watches

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Calendar Watch Hands-on Longines Replica Men Watch

LONGINES Introduces The Heritage1918

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That I look forward to seeing what Longines releases in its Heritage collection each year is no big secret, and Baselworld 2016 brought with it two additions to this collection. Today is about a replica watch with a familiar case shape bu in a different form, the Heritage 1918.replique de montre rolex

 

At the outset I mentioned that there was a hint of familiarity with this new model. This is because it reminds me of a Red 12 model that Longines released a couple of years ago, inspired by a historical piece from a similar period. Not everyone is into Red 12s nor does everyone wish for a chronograph, so for those who are fans of that particular period’s style of case and ‘look’ but didn’t want the red 12, this new release may tick your vintage-modern boxes.

The choice of a strap colour to match the fill colour of the hands really does make a big difference. Had they chosen a dark brown or even a black strap the effect would not have been as warm as it is. I know that I sometimes might go on a bit about a strap, but I’ve found that a strap change can make a huge difference, and witnessed people who have been converted to a replica watch by a simple colour change. This strap works.

As the name indicates, this is an update of a model from 1918. The case shape, lugs, white-lacquered dial, hands and numerals may reflect the original, especially with the honeyed tones of the ‘faux vintage’ colouring which is also tonally reflected in the alligator strap colour, but Longines have added their usual update of a date function (and on this note I might add that I had the opportunity to meet CEO Mr. Von Kanel and asked him why they keep on adding a date to Heritage Collection reissues – his answer was because people ask for it) as well as putting in an automatic movement (L615/ ETA 2895/2) and increasing the size to models that are 38.5mm and 41mm stainless steel.

 

The Australian RRPs are $2,200 and $2,300 respectively for the different sizes.

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For those who like diamonds on their replica watches, there is also a diamond bezel version of the 38.5mm size featuring sixty diamonds totalling 1 carat.

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Longines Replica

Replica Longines Heritage1918

Basel2016LonginesHeritage1918a

That I look forward to seeing what unqiue and elegant replica Longines releases in its Heritage collection each year is no big secret, and Baselworld 2016 brought with it two additions to this collection. Today is about a replica watch with a familiar case shape bu in a different form, the Heritage 1918.

As the name indicates, this is an update of a model from 1918. The case shape, lugs, white-lacquered dial, hands and numerals may reflect the original, especially with the honeyed tones of the ‘faux vintage’ colouring which is also tonally reflected in the alligator strap colour, but Longines have added their usual update of a date function (and on this note I might add that I had the opportunity to meet CEO Mr. Von Kanel and asked him why they keep on adding a date to Heritage Collection reissues – his answer was because people ask for it) as well as putting in an automatic movement (L615/ ETA 2895/2) and increasing the size to models that are 38.5mm and 41mm stainless steel.

The choice of a strap colour to match the fill colour of the hands really does make a big difference. Had they chosen a dark brown or even a black strap the effect would not have been as warm as it is. I know that I sometimes might go on a bit about a strap, but I’ve found that a strap change can make a huge difference, and witnessed people who have been converted to a replica watch by a simple colour change. This strap works.

At the outset I mentioned that there was a hint of familiarity with this new model. This is because it reminds me of a Red 12 model that Longines released a couple of years ago, inspired by a historical piece from a similar period. Not everyone is into Red 12s nor does everyone wish for a chronograph, so for those who are fans of that particular period’s style of case and ‘look’ but didn’t want the red 12, this new release may tick your vintage-modern boxes.

The Australian RRPs are $2,200 and $2,300 respectively for the different sizes.

Basel2016LonginesHeritage1918e

For those who like diamonds on their replica watches, there is also a diamond bezel version of the 38.5mm size featuring sixty diamonds totalling 1 carat.

Categories
Longines Replica

Classic Replica LONGINES Heritage1918 Watch Hands On

Basel2016LonginesHeritage1918a

That I look forward to seeing what Longines releases in its Heritage collection each year is no big secret, and Baselworld 2016 brought with it two additions to this collection. Today is about a hgih quality replica watch with a familiar case shape bu in a different form, the Heritage 1918.

As the name indicates, this is an update of a model from 1918. The case shape, lugs, white-lacquered dial, hands and numerals may reflect the original, especially with the honeyed tones of the ‘faux vintage’ colouring which is also tonally reflected in the alligator strap colour, but Longines have added their usual update of a date function (and on this note I might add that I had the opportunity to meet CEO Mr. Von Kanel and asked him why they keep on adding a date to Heritage Collection reissues – his answer was because people ask for it) as well as putting in an automatic movement (L615/ ETA 2895/2) and increasing the size to models that are 38.5mm and 41mm stainless steel.

The choice of a strap colour to match the fill colour of the hands really does make a big difference. Had they chosen a dark brown or even a black strap the effect would not have been as warm as it is. I know that I sometimes might go on a bit about a strap, but I’ve found that a strap change can make a huge difference, and witnessed people who have been converted to a replica watch by a simple colour change. This strap works.

At the outset I mentioned that there was a hint of familiarity with this new model. This is because it reminds me of a Red 12 model that Longines released a couple of years ago, inspired by a historical piece from a similar period. Not everyone is into Red 12s nor does everyone wish for a chronograph, so for those who are fans of that particular period’s style of case and ‘look’ but didn’t want the red 12, this new release may tick your vintage-modern boxes.

The Australian RRPs are $2,200 and $2,300 respectively for the different sizes.

Basel2016LonginesHeritage1918e

For those who like diamonds on their replica watches, there is also a diamond bezel version of the 38.5mm size featuring sixty diamonds totalling 1 carat.

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Panerai Replica

SIHH 2016 : Replica Panerai goes ‘tropical’ with the PAM662 Radiomir 1940 3 Days Acciaio PAM663 Luminor 1950 3 DaysAcciaio

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At SIHH 2016 Panerai revisited its past with a number of new models in a variety of cases and dial colours and functions. Of these my personal favourites were, perhaps of some surprise to me, these two. I’ll explain why a little later.

The new Radiomir 1940 3 Days (PAM662) is a re-creation of the Egiziano Piccolo (‘small Egiziano’) Ref.6154 that was originally made in very small quantities of some 30-40 exemplars, but what makes it distinctive is that Officine Panerai have chosen to update it with what many replica watch people informally call a ‘tropical’ dial, but which I prefer to simply call ‘faded’. It is basically meant to be the colour of a dial showing the patina of age.

The Ref. 6154 on which it is based had its genesis in a 1954 training exercise. The Egyptians had sent members of their military to La Spezia for training and found themselves amazed by the equipment used by the Italian Navy (Marina Militaire), particularly the luminosity. So much so that they placed an order from Panerai for compasses, depth gauges, and elegant replica watches; it is estimated that 30-40 were ordered of each.

Containing a Rolex Cal. 618 movement, the original 47mm Egiziano Piccolo has a Rolex case with new specifications that had never been seen prior, its sleek curves granting it descriptions comparing it with sports cars. The Egyptians had insisted on a Radiomir dial despite it not longer being in production, and the radium part of the Radiomir has meant that with time, variants in humidity, sunlight, temperature etc, each of these rare beasts has developed its own distinctive marking and patina.

Naturally, these modern versions are lumed with Super-LumiNova, so these will not all develop their own look, but as the original is a scarce beast (see above photo for comparison), this is not a bad modern compromise in terms of looks for those (most) who will never be able to have the original.

For both of these tribute models, the ‘vintage’ inspiration extends to the crystal, which is plexi. They both comes with a spare plexi crystal.

To ‘match’ this Radiomir 1940 Panerai have simultaneously released the PAM663 Luminor 1950 3 Days Acciaio, which shares the same ‘tropical’ dial and 47mm size. In this model, the brown dial appears in a 47mm Luminor 1950 case.

Both the PAM662 and PAM663 contain the hand-wound Calibre P.3000 which is realised with brush-finished bridges and as the name of the replica watches indicate, has a power reserve of three days. From a practical point of view, you may note that it allows for the hour hand to be set independently.

They come on brown Ponte Vecchio strap with ecru-coloured stitching and an engravd OP logo.

Now – back to what I mentioned at the outset. I am not one of those who gets excited about ‘tropical’ dials as certain brands/ collectors/ enthusiasts like to call their faded vintage dials. They’re just faded brown dials to me, of varying levels of patina-d attractiveness, and I do find it somewhat bemusing that how faded or the way in which a dial is faded can result in a premium at auction.

Panerai is not the first brand, nor will it be the last by any stretch of the imagination, to try a modern ‘recreation’ of a colours that result from the natural process of ageing. Bearing in mind my bemusement about such dials in general, I was surprised to find myself quite drawn to how Panerai have coloured these dials. They do not look too ‘shiny and new’, as is often the danger when doing such things, and regardless of the inspiration of the colour, the tone of it has turned out really quite well. These are appealing pieces, but if I was to choose one of the two, and in fact if I were to pick one replica watch from Panerai’s SIHH 2016 releases, it would be the PAM662.

The PAM662 is priced at 9,500 EUR and the PAM663 at 9,900 EUR.

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IWC Replica

PHOTOS : Replica IWC’s Portugieser Yacht Club – something old, somethingnew

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As most of you will know by now, 2015 is IWC’s year of the Portugieser.

As you all know 2015 is IWC’s year of the Portugieser, with a new collection having been launched at SIHH 2015 to celebrate its 75th anniversary that included an Annual Calendar (their first) containing a new movement, the Cal. 52850, and with which we spent a few ‘on the wrist’ days a little while ago. You can read about that experience, and our thoughts at this link.

Today it’s about the Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph. A model first launched in 2010, this newer version uses the same IWC Calibre 89361 with its 68-hour power reserve.

As mentioned in this recent post about a 1970s Yacht Club, the first of the Yacht Clubs, the Yacht Club Automatic, was launched at the Baselworld 1967. Inside the original Yacht Club was the Calibre 8541 with date display and Pellaton bi-directional winding system. The stainless steel Yacht Club was water resistant to 100m and 60m for the gold version, via a crown mechanism that automatically tightened the seals as water pressure increased.

The new Yacht Club Chronograph is smaller, down from 45.4mm to 43.5mm. In wrist terms, that’s actually quite a difference. Heightwise, the new model is 14.5mm. With the (flyback) automatic IWC Calibre 89361 inside and a case water-resistant to 6 bar (part of its ‘sporty’ bit), the Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph is the only Portugieser model with lumed hands and indices and comes on a rubber strap to complete the sports look.

Available in stainless steel with a slate-coloured (Ref. IW390503) or silver-plated (Ref. IW390502) dial and in 18 carat red gold with a silver-plated dial (Ref. IW390501), we had the second of these for a few days to test drive.

The dial features a railway track style chapter ring with lumed hour indices and polished Arabic numerals. The outer ring is a 60-second chronograph scale for the red chronograph seconds hand.

Note the chronograph function sub dial at 12 o’clock. It is totaliser-style, indicating both elapsed hours and minutes on the one sub dial. display that uses one dial to indicate both elapsed hours and minutes.

As mentioned above, we took a look at a 1970s Yacht Club not too long ago, and thought it might be fun to take a photo of these relatives together.

Of course they are quite different; each was created for different eras and thus different markets for starters, but they do share certain attributes at a glance – both have been created to be very practical sturdy replica watches with no extra frills, but also to be slightly dressy (and in that, versatile from a ‘wearing’ point of view) as well. You can wear these both dressed up and dressed down.

The red gold version (Ref. IWC 390501) is an entirely different proposition, since making it red (or rose) gold makes it more dress and less ‘yacht’/ ‘sports’ replica watch almost by default. However, we live in an age where sports replica watches are red or rose gold and are worn with suits and people like to have choices of metal, so two options satisfy this.

Australian prices for the three models are as follows :

Ref. IW390501 RRP: $31,500

Ref. IW390502 RRP: $16,400

Ref. IW390503 RRP: $16,400

Categories
IWC Replica

PHOTOS : a 1970s Replica IWC YachtClub

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Although it is a name that has perhaps become less known to contemporary replica watch enthusiasts, the ‘Yacht Club’ moniker forms an important part of IWC’s history.

The original Yacht Club Automatic was launched at the Baselworld 1967. With its focus on precision, utility, and durability as well as its design, it has endured as an example of sports-dressy case design from the period. One of its best-selling features was a shock system involving spring suspension with rubber bumpers for the movement, thus ‘isolating’ it, a major innovation for the brand. The Yacht Club also became its most popular line during that time, and for modern collectors and enthusiasts who are keen on emblematic replica watches from that period, it is a popular and price-accessible choice.

Inside the original Yacht Club was the Calibre 8541 with date display and Pellaton bi-directional winding system. The stainless steel Yacht Club was water resistant to 100m and 60m for the gold version, via a crown mechanism that automatically tightened the seals as water pressure increased.

There were a variety of Yacht Club models – automatic with no date, a few manual-wind models with the Calibre 89 amongst others, covering all price points, and in 1977 IWC introduced the 38mm Yacht Club II, which was mostly quartz (in keeping with the period) and had a screw-down crown that wasn’t present in its predecessors. The Yacht Club II was retired in 1985 and then other collections became more of a priority for IWC until SIHH 2010 when they brought the Yacht Club name back but in the Portuguese line, as a flyback chronograph which has the IWC Calibre 89360 with its 68-hour power reserve and 600m water resistance.

Today’s example dates from c.1973 and has an anti-magnetic inner case. In a stainless steel case with silver dial and applied baton markers, it has the automatic Calibre 8541 movement. The case is 36mm and has a domed plexi atop. What is special about this piece is that it still has the original strap and IWC buckle. Not only this, but it was a gift, presented to its owner in 1973 in recognition of 25 years at Schafenhausers Strickmaschinenfabrik. For a replica watch of this age it has been kept in remarkable condition, its edges still sharp and nary a mark.

This is a lovely example of the solid no-nonsense replica watches for which that period was known. As its owner points out, vintage Yacht Clubs are collectible and desirable, but seen as less so than vintage Ingenieurs, which have had a more glamorous lineage. This is reflected in its pricing, but it also makes them what he calls “a relative bargain” and something worth considering for those who wish to get into vintage IWCs and are on a tighter budget. For those without a particular interest in the movement aspects, they are also good looking replica watches that are evocative of the design codes of that period.

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Jaeger-LeCoultre Replica

HANDS-ON : Replica Jaeger-LeCoultre Memovox Tribute to Polaris1968

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Seven hundred and sixty eight.

This is the number that were produced by luxury replica Jaeger-LeCoultre in 2008 of the immensely popular re-edition of the 1968 (as opposed to the other 2008 re-edition of the 1965 version) Memovox Polaris diving replica watch. A 42mm stainless steel piece with sweep centre seconds hand, date and alarm, it contained the Calibre 956, lumed hands and markers, and a bi-directional bezel operated.

In line with its 1968 parent E859, this 2008 re-edition had an acrylic crystal that added to its ‘modern-vintage’ look. This was an incredibly well received replica watch and now, as was the case then, it is still a difficult replica watch to find, albeit it now not on the new market.

This, Horologium readers, is a prototype of the 2008 re-edition.

For those who do not know, the original 1960s Memovox Polaris diving replica watch had a patented triple-back case to improve the quality of the alarm and for water resistance. With a total production run of 1714 pieces between 1975-1970, the original rates highly not only for collectors of vintage Jaeger-LeCoultres, but also for diving replica watch enthusiasts. This is one of those ‘milestone’ replica watches for which the much abused word ‘iconic’, whose misuse should, perhaps, incur a financial penalty every time it is trotted out with little thought as to its actual meaning, is actually appropriate.

As you can see, even on this prototype there is a diving helmet engraving, as well as the all important ‘out of series’ absence of a number.

This is a well-loved and well worn piece, as befitting a prototype, and it was a very unexpected pleasure to be able to shown it earlier this year by its owner and Pierre-Etienne Durand, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Brand Manager (Australia & NZ), who suggested that we might wish to see what was on the wrist of the gentleman who was in the room with us. To see any replica watch prototype is special, but to my mind, to cross paths quite randomly ‘in the wild’ with one that is still being worn by someone who was involved with it, is even more special.

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Omega Replica

HANDS-ON : A vintage Omega Cosmic replica watch review

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In 1947 Omega introduced their first calendar complication replica watch, the Cosmic Moonphase triple date calendar. It was produced, during the course of its existence, in both square and round cases, and with a variety of metals/ dial colours. It was the brand’s first replica watch that displayed the time and the date with hands and day, month and moon phase in windows. The square models were introduced in 1951, and it is one of these, in 14k yellow gold, that is the subject of today’s post.

This rare original Cosmic, which even has its box, has tear-drop lugs, domed sapphire crystal, alpha-styled hands. The dial is silver with applied gilt indices, outer minute divisions, a sub dial for the seconds which ‘overlaps’ with the moonphase indicator, windows showing the day of the week and month, and an ring with the days of the month in painted blue Arabic numerals. The movement is the manual Cal. 381, with 17 jewels, straight-line lever escapement, monometallic balance, shock absorber, self-compensating flat balance spring, index regulator. It is 33mm x 33mm in size, very small by today’s standards, with a thickness 12.8 mm.

Such was the significance of this piece for Omega that they re-issued a limited edition (1951) modern version of the square Cosmic in 2002 as part of the Omega Museum Collection. The modern version was of the square model, retaining the original design features down to the lugs, but with a water resistance of 50m. A manual winding movement was replaced with an automatic Calibre 2601 movement with a 72 hour power reserve.

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Jaeger-LeCoultre Replica

EVENT : A jubilee evening with replica Jaeger-LeCoultre

D60_2443 A few weeks ago Jaeger-LeCoultre Australia hosted a dinner in Sydney to introduce some of releases in this, their 180th anniversary year. Held at Sake Restaurant, a mix of collectors, enthusiasts and others were given the opportunity to try and learn about a range of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s current range.

The replica watches presented that evening by Pierre-Etienne Durand (Brand Manager, Australia and New Zealand) and Sam from Jaeger-LeCoultre covered men’s and women’s pieces, dress and sports replica watches. As did the JLCs worn by guests. Without further ado, here are some highlights from the evening. All photos not marked ‘Horologium’ were taken by lumiere photographie.

Some of the replica watches on the menu.

The Master Ultra Thin Perpetual is in a 39mm and 9.2mm thin case available in three iterations – stainless steel, white gold or rose gold. The MUT Perpetual uses the ultra thin (4.72mm) Calibre 868 automatic movement with a 38 hour power reserve.

This is a beautifully sized replica watch with a nicely balanced dial; the subdials do not feel cramped. As well as the hours, minutes and seconds, the date is at 3 o’clock, month at 6 o’clock, year in a window between 7 and 8 o’clock, day of the week at 9 o’clock and the moonphase at 12 o’clock. The perpetual calendar indications are adjusted via a single corrector at 8 o’clock. The hands are dauphine and the hour markers the same metal as the model.

Next up is one of my favourites and a popular replica watch that evening. The 44mm Deep Sea Chronograph Cermet (ceramic particles and aluminium topped with a strong ceramic coating), about which you can read more here.

The next piece is the 42mm Duomètre à Chronographe containing the manual wind Calibre 380A and a relative of this replica watch.

The basic idea is to separate the normal time keeping function of the replica watch (hours, minutes, and seconds) from the other function, hence ‘duo’. You can read more about this at the link above.

My pick for the evening, and arguably the most popular amongst the group that night, the Master Ultra Thin Jubilee 39. This is a piece that you don’t get the full impact of in photos. It is really quite a stunning replica watch. Light as a feather to wear, and incredibly elegant.

One of the pieces released this year to celebrate 180 years of Manufacture Jaeger-LeCoultre, this model is produced in a limited edition of 880 pieces. Although ‘only’ 39mm in diametre (4.05mm thin), it sits a bit larger than this. Guests that evening were constantly surprised to hear that it was under 42mm. Inside is the 1.85mm thin manual wind Calibre 849.

Next is the Master Grande Tradition Tourbillon Cylindrique à Quantième Perpétuel Jubilee. Inside the 42mm platinum case are a flying tourbillon, perpetual calendar and moonphase, courtesy of the new Cal. 985 automatic movement which has a 22ct RG oscillating weight with a representation of the gold medal awarded to Jaeger-LeCoultre at the 1889 Paris Exhibition.

A classic Jaeger-LeCoultre, the Master Date, a triple date with moonphase in a 39mm case and utilising the automatic Calibre 866.

A Reverso Duo.

Some of the pieces worn by guests.

Some vintage pieces.

One or two other brands worn on the evening.

A historical Jaeger-LeCoultre comparison.

Three Ultra-Thin Reversos, including a boutique-edition 1931 Rouge as previously written about here. Although from the men’s range, their slim lines proved popular with female guests as well.

If you would like to read more about some of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s 2013 releases then go to this post from earlier this year.

My thanks to Pierre and Sam for a most enjoyable evening.

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Swiss Replica

A look at some ‘jump hour’ replica watches

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Inspired by conversations online with English replica watch and clock collector AlanL and Sydney enthusiast Danny, whom I had the pleasure of meeting at a Jaeger-LeCoultre SIHH 2013 novelties dinner (about which I will cover in a separate post), this post is to share with you some examples, ranging from the cheap and cheerful to the haute horology, of luxury replica watches that use ‘direct read’ and ‘jump hour’ methods of time display.

The term ‘jump hour’ is actually quite specific in definition, referring exactly to that, an hour indicator that jumps from one hour to the next, but popular horological nomenclature seems to also include, as ‘jump hours’, those replica watches where the hour slides (on a rotating disc) rather than jumps, so to be inclusive, I shall include some of these ‘direct’ read’ pieces as well.

I have a particular fondness for this type of time display. This post is not intended to be a representative example of these types of replica watches, nor am I going to go into the technical details about each piece. They are here simply to be shared, enjoyed, and for those of you who haven’t ever considered replica watches with time displayed via anything other than hands, to perhaps provide you with some inspiration for your next purchase.

As I have a particular fondness for these replica watches, some of them are my own. Others belong to friends, and there are a few which I have featured in previous posts.

We start off in the 1970s, a rich period for inexpensive and simply designed direct read replica watches, many of which looked similar to this Lucerne model.

Also from the 1970s, from a brand known more for its ‘Cricket Replica Watch’, is this unusual specimen.

The pair in this next photo are from different periods, and I’ve previously written about them here. They are, from left to right, the MB&F HM5 with its bi-directional jumping hours with inverted indications, and the popular-in-niche-1970s-jump-hour-circles Amida Digitrend that inspired the HM5.

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The source of many beautiful jump hours during its history, this one is from the maison of Vacheron Constantin and one of my favourite jump hours. It is incredibly elegant and contains the renowned calibre 1120. Although directly inspired by a 1929 pocket replica watch, if you look at examples of Vacheron’s 19th century jump hour pocket replica watches, you can see the lineage of this 1994 replica watch.

This next replica watch is another one of my favourite jump hour replica watches (one of my favourite replica watches in general), and one that I can’t get enough of. I am fortunate to know someone with one, and it is every bit as drop dead gorgeous ‘in the metal’ as it is in photos.

Goldpfeil, which some of you, like myself, may know more as a leather goods brand, had a very interesting collaboration with independent replica watchmakers called the ‘Seven Masters’ collection, of which this was a part. This Vianney Halter jump hour moon phase is one of the two Goldpfeils on my ‘dream list’. The hour is indicated by the large number, the minutes and seconds on the large dial, and the moonphase indicator in the circle. Winding the crown forwards advances the time; winding it backwards adjusts the moon phase hand. The case is polished, satin brushed, matte and the small hammered marks which, it is rumoured, were all hand-hammered by Vianney Halter himself.

Gerald Genta has been a brand that has enjoyed using jump hour displays in a playful way, such as in this trio of examples.

One of the famous Genta Mickey Mouse models.

The next direct read is Montblanc’s Nicholas Rieussec Rising Hours, a SIHH 2013 launch about which I have previously written here.

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To end with is something modern, cheap, and cheerful. This direct read originally came on a white rubber strap, but I think the orange FOSSIL NATO is a more interesting combination.

If you ever find yourself in Geneva and visiting the Patek Philippe Museum, look out for the collection of old Vacheron Constantin jump pocket replica watches there. They really are a joy to behold.