Tag: Vintage Omega

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Omega Replica

Replica Omega’s DeVilleTrésor Review

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On the day during which I visited the Sydney Omega boutique to see the Speedmaster Mark II I had expectations only of the Mark II. What other replica watches I might see did not cross my mind. It was all about the Mark II.

What ended up happening is that I went in with one replica watch at the forefront of my mind but left with another dominating my thoughts and becoming not only my favourite 2014 release from Omega, but also one of my favourite replica watches so far for 2014.

I had read about the newly reworked De Ville Trésor but, mesmerised by the Mark II, I had only paid it cursory attention. More fool me.

The original Omega De Ville Trésor models was first launched in 1949, made for the South American market and called ‘Tesoro’. They were simple models, characterised by classic case styles, clean dials (some with a seconds sub-dial, some with a sweep seconds hand), and containing a 30mm movement.

The new Trésor screams a 1940s-1950s dress replica watch aesthetic, but that’s where the similarity ends. Inside is the manual wind Master Co-Axial Caliber 8511 (that includes a time zone function) with an 18k rose gold balance bridge, a Si14 silicon balance spring and Omega’s three-level co-axial escapement. The movement is a COSC-certified chronometer and anti-magnetic greater than 15,000 gauss and has a power reserve of sixty hours.

As for the case, that has also been glammed up, with the new 40mm Trésor available in yellow gold, white gold, or Omega’s Sedna gold. However, it is not the case or its metals that are the key to this replica watch, it’s the dial. Silvery opaline, domed and decorated with a Clou de Paris (guilloché motif of hollowed lines that intersect to form tiny pyramidal shapes) pattern, it is quite simply, stunning.

The visceral appeal of the dial/ case combination took me by surprise, and it was these aesthetics which made this overtake the Mark II as my favourite Omega release. Despite it very clearly harking back to Omega’s history, it does not look dated nor old-fashioned. It is deeply simple but deeply elegant, and its full effect is best seen ‘ín the metal’.

Hands and hour markers are made of 18k gold and arched to complement the curvature of the dial and crystal. The polished open caseback sports “ANTI-MAGNETIC,” “15,000 GAUSS,” and “Si14”.

Water resistance is to 30Mand on a black or brown leather strap with polished 18k gold buckle, it comes with a four year warranty and should be available worldwide from October 2014.

This may not have been the most hyped Omega release during Baselworld 2014, but this thoroughbred deserves as much attention as its other new siblings. The Australian RRP for the Sedna and Yellow gold pieces is $16,175 and the White Gold version is $17,575. Availability will be from appoximately March 2015.

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Omega Replica

HANDS-ON : Replica Omega Speedmaster Mark IIRe-issue

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Earlier this year I blogged about the replica Omega Speedmaster Mark II re-issue. Today, Horologium brings you live photos of the two versions, with thanks to Omega Australia and the Castlereagh St boutique in Sydney.

To reiterate Omega, which not only has a rich archive into which it can delve for inspiration but also a longstanding loyal fan base for many of its historically important models, decided to release a modern version of their 1969 Speedmaster Mark II, a perennial favourite amongst Speedy collectors for both its distinctive case and dial, and because of its manually wound Calibre 861 movement.

For Speedmaster enthusiasts, as is the case with Rolex collectors of certain models, nothing is unimportant, and any modernisation of a beloved replica watch will be scrutinised within an inch of its font. So it has been with this one.

The remade Speedmaster Mark II is available in two versions, one reminiscent of the original racing dial, and one with a black dial as per the original. The original Mark II came in three main versions :

1. stainless steel case, black dial
2. stainless steel case, black dial with orange/ red/ grey along the minute track
3. gold case, gold dial with a maroon tachymeter ring

As mentioned in the previous post, a major point of difference in the modern version is that it contains the automatic Co-axial Calibre 3330 with a column wheel chronograph, as opposed to being a manual. Dedicated Speedy fans appear to be pleased with this, as it reminiscent of the Cal.321.

Speedmaster Mark II original (left) and the 2014 version(right)

Other changes are the additions of a date window at 6 o’clock, with its adjustment corrector at 10 o’clock, a printed (on the crystal) tachymetre scale that is illuminated by Super-LumiNova, and hour and minute marker, centre hand and hour and minute hands similarly lumed.

For the Speedy fans/ collectors who love the original Mark IIs, these are both quite traditionally styled. The low key black version has a black track on inner side of the crystal with a transparent tachymeter scale, and the other model is similar to the original’s ‘racing style’ with orange/ grey. The lume to the tachymeter bezel is subtly done and adds functionality, but not at the expense of the original design.

There are those (and I have expressed this view on Horologium) who ponder about the predilection of putting in date windows for modern re-issues of classic replica watches. I find myself asking “why?” a lot, feeling as though there has been something lost, from a purely visual point of view, by this addition, but as myself and my Speedmaster collector friend agreed after visiting the boutique to look at these new Mark IIs, we were pleasantly surprised. It works. My collector friend has an even more firm view about date windows in modern re-issues than I have, but we agreed that in this case, it doesn’t affect the symmetry of the dial and, most importantly, is unobtrusive.

Another difference is the text. On the originals, it says “Omega Speedmaster Professional Mark II”, whilst for the new versions, the new movement takes pride of place instead.

Apart from a centre minute hand, there is a small seconds at 9 o’clock, the aforementioned new date window at 6 o’clock, a 30-minute recorder at 3 o’clock and a 12 hour recorder at 6 o’clock.

Speedmaster Mark II original (left) and re-issue (right)

The predominantly brushed stainless steel case can seem more sleek than the original when viewed from the front, partly due to the combination of brushed and polished metal, but the 2014 version is in fact, larger.

It appears that one of the abiding concerns with the original for some is that it sits too largely on the wrist. Despite this new version being bigger, a very different bracelet means that it does not sit all that differently in ‘wrist comfort’ terms to the original, and in fact is pretty comfortable for a hefty replica watch. The new Mark II measures 42.40 x 46.20mm with a thickness of 14.85 mm. The original Mark II measures 41.75 x 45mm and is 14.55mm thick.

The question I have been most asked since I saw these has been whether I prefer the original or the re-issues. This is not a question with a simple answer. The ‘originalist’ in me will tend towards an original of anything, but I appreciate a well thought out and well made re-issue. As the Speedmaster collector who accompanied me to the boutique on that day says, “it is a very sensible and sensitive re-edition, with major design cues of the original, but improvements that do not detract from original design.”

These are very nice modern versions, and for owners of the originals, the additional of one of these to a Speedmaster collection would, to me, work very well. There have been many Speedy iterations over the decades, many commemorative models. To my mind, this Speedmaster Mark II re-issue is one of the most desirable ones.

A final thought for those who prefer new replica watches over vintage ones, wanting the assurance of current technology, warranties and the like. If you are looking for a modern/ retro Speedmaster to add to your collection, these are worth a look.

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Omega Replica

HANDS-ON: the replica Omega Marine

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Following on from the previous post about the very collectible Omega Cosmic is another vintage Omega, this one from an earlier period and perhaps even more rare, the divers replica watch known as the Omega Marine, first produced in 1932. The patent for this waterproof case was first granted on 10 March, 1930 (patent No. 146310), and the Marine, the great great etc grandfather of the modern Seamaster divers range, bears no hint of its descendants, with its Art Deco design rendering it a dress replica watch designwise, by modern standards. Considering its age, this example is in remarkably clean condition, the dial’s patina adding only to its charm.

The rectangular measures 24 x 40 mm (including lugs) and comes in interlocking parts that are released by a clip on the back that releases the outer case, sliding off to reveal the hidden crown as well as acting as a ‘waterproofing’ mechanism. Inside is the calibre 19.4 movement with 15 jewels.

The first experiments on the Marine replica watch were conducted in 1936 and involved immersing the replica watch into water at a temperature of 85° Celsius for several minutes and then plunging it directly into water with a temperature of 5° Celsius to test its resistance to extreme temperature variations. The Marine was the first replica watch to be tested at a depth exceeding 70 meters; in 1936 an Omega Marine was successfully taken down to a depth of 73 meters for 30 minutes in the Lac Léman; the temperature at maximum depth was 5° Celsius. I’m not sure I’d advise the same for this particular specimen.

After a series of trials undertaken by the Swiss Laboratory for Horology in Neuchâtel in May 1937, the Marine’s locking lever, which sealed the parts, was certified as being successfully being able to withstand a pressure of 13.5 atmospheres (135m) without any water intake.

The cream dial has black Arabic numerals with an outside minute track. To handle, it looks very small by current standards, but the design of the bezel gives me a bit of a ‘lift’ and aids in making it seem a bit bigger. It sits very lightly and comfortably on the wrist.

As was the case with the Omega Cosmic, the importance of this replica watch in Omega’s history has been commemorated by a faithful modern reproduction. In 2007 Omega produced a limited edition of the same design for the Omega Museum collection, and called it the ‘Marine 1932’. Limited to 135 pieces, the number commemorating the 1937 trials that certified the replica watch’s water resistance to 135m, and in 18 carat red and white gold with the classic sliding and removable case design. This modern homage contained a much more glamorous movement, the Calibre 2007 with a Co-Axial escapement and with a 48-hour power reserve. It is also significantly bigger, at 33.05 mm wide and 50.50 mm long.

This was and remains an important replica watch for Omega. The behemoth Omega book devotes quite a few pages to it, including fascinating photos of the advertisements. You will notice one marked difference between some of the models – the placement of the hidden crown.

This is a lovely example of a very interesting replica watch. Even for those not interested in vintage replica watches or vintage Omegas, this is fascinating from a historical perspective, and very desirable.

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Omega Replica

HANDS-ON : A vintage Omega Cosmic replica watch review

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In 1947 Omega introduced their first calendar complication replica watch, the Cosmic Moonphase triple date calendar. It was produced, during the course of its existence, in both square and round cases, and with a variety of metals/ dial colours. It was the brand’s first replica watch that displayed the time and the date with hands and day, month and moon phase in windows. The square models were introduced in 1951, and it is one of these, in 14k yellow gold, that is the subject of today’s post.

This rare original Cosmic, which even has its box, has tear-drop lugs, domed sapphire crystal, alpha-styled hands. The dial is silver with applied gilt indices, outer minute divisions, a sub dial for the seconds which ‘overlaps’ with the moonphase indicator, windows showing the day of the week and month, and an ring with the days of the month in painted blue Arabic numerals. The movement is the manual Cal. 381, with 17 jewels, straight-line lever escapement, monometallic balance, shock absorber, self-compensating flat balance spring, index regulator. It is 33mm x 33mm in size, very small by today’s standards, with a thickness 12.8 mm.

Such was the significance of this piece for Omega that they re-issued a limited edition (1951) modern version of the square Cosmic in 2002 as part of the Omega Museum Collection. The modern version was of the square model, retaining the original design features down to the lugs, but with a water resistance of 50m. A manual winding movement was replaced with an automatic Calibre 2601 movement with a 72 hour power reserve.