Tag: Switzerland

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Swiss Replica

HANDS-ON : the new replica Breva Génie 02Terre

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One of the most intriguing replica watch launches in 2013 was surely that of the brand of Breva with its Genie 01, the world’s first mechanical replica wristwatch showing not just the time, but acting as a portable mechanical weather station, with a barometric pressure reading.

Not content with one unusual mechanical timepiece/ measurement device, they have followed on with the Genie 02 Terre, a mechanical wristwatch altimeter. The first replica watch was about the weather, then this one is about altitude, and I had the opportunity to see it earlier this year in Geneva.

Breva Genie 01 and Genie 02 Terre

This 44.70 mm Genie 02 Terre comes in a black titanium G5 case, with an altimeter can measure up to 5000m/ 16,400 ft. The (manual winding) movement was developed by Jean-François Mojon of Chronode, who were also responsible for the movement in the Genie 01. The altitude is indicated in measurements of thousands of metres (up to 5,000m) at the top of the dial, and there is a precision altimeter sub-dial at 2 o’clock displaying meters (or feet). There is a 10m margin for the reading. For those used to imperial measurements, it is available in a non-metric version.

Atmospheric pressure changes with weather changes, and this can affect altitude readings. When bad weather approaches, air pressure can fall, causing the altimeter in the timepiece to confuse this decrease in pressure with an increase in altitude.

The air pressure is measured courtesy of a pair of aneroid capsules at 5 o’clock. In order to measure altitude, air pressure inside the replica watch has to be equalised (i.e. barometric compensation for the atmospheric changes mentioned above) by opening the valve in the case at four o’clock, and then calibrating the replica watch to a known altitude or air pressure.

The two aneroid capsules are made from a special non-magnetic memory metal (a Breva-patented invention), lighter and stronger than aluminium. The Génie 02’s capsules were developed specifically for registering air pressure for altitude readings. The use of a Teflon membrane allows air to get through and also filters out dust particles and moisture. The air that is let in powers the altimeter scale. The membrane will be checked if you take your Breva in for servicing, and you can leave it open so that the air can get through during, for example, skiing, and you can see the drop in the altimeter reading as you go downhill.

At 4 o’clock there is also an indicator for the status (open/ closed) of the air valve, which must be open to indicate the altitude. Below that is the 65-hour power reserve indicator. The time is shown on a sub-dial at 8 o’clock.

There are three chevron-engraved (for grip) crowns on the Genie 02 Terre.

At 9 o’clock, a two-position crown both winds the movement and sets the time.

At 2 o’clock, a screw-down crown rotates both the altitude’s precision-scale and large-scale (i.e. an altitude corrector) to adjust for variations in air pressure, which affects altitude readings. The expansion and contraction of the capsules with changes in air pressure (an indicator of changes in altitude) is mechanically magnified 200 times and relayed to the two altimeter indications.

Finally, at 4 o’clock there is a screw down crown that seals air out of the movement or allows it in for the altitude function. In case of concerns about the status of the valve, just above the crown there is a white band on the dial marked “SEALED” warns when the valve is unlocked.

The Genie 02 Terre’s 44.7mm case is 16.10mm thick case in black titanium G5 and comes on a rubber strap with titanium tang buckle. Despite its size it sits comfortably and very lightly on even small wrists, and does not feel too ‘precious’ to wear for its intended purposes, although admittedly not everyone would feel comfortable about wearing a six figure replica watch whilst skiing. The dial, featuring grained and galvanised nickel silver indexes and raised numbers with Super-LumiNova, is not confusing, and easy to read. The 02 Terre is in a limited edition of 55 pieces.

Breva is a small company that currently numbers eight, with two replica watchmakers. Their first replica watch, which I saw for the first time at the same time as this one, has shown itself to be more than a fleeting curiosity, with the brand following it up with the Terre (and now, as I write, a third model).

It can be difficult for a new brand to really stand out with a new replica watch, let alone more, but they have certainly done this. Shrinking a mechanical altimeter into a wristwatch is no mean feat. Breva’s motto is all about the relationship between humans and their environment, and these are considered (albeit rather high-end) sports replica watches, intended to be used. In having them explained by the Breva team, they were shown to be practical to use, comfortable, very attractive, and really quite intriguing. This is a brand that is worth keeping an eye on.

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Jaeger-LeCoultre Replica

HANDS-ON :Replica Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Master Compressor ChronographCeramic

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With the plethora of dress replica watches announced by Jaeger-LeCoultre at SIHH 2014, a new limited edition sports replica watch was almost missed by some, but for  fans of all-black ceramic pieces, and of chronographs, there was something of interest.

The new Master Compresor Chronograph Ceramic is not just a chronograph but also a dual-time display, in a large 46mm ceramic case that sits comfortably like a 44mm replica watch on the wrist.

It features Jaeger’s patented compression key which is part of the Master Compressor range; what this means is that a half-turn of the key over-compresses one of the crown’s four toric gaskets and locks it securely into position, preventing any moisture or water from accidentally entering and damaging the replica watch.

Functionally, this new ceramic piece has a column-wheel chronograph, GMT with day/ night indicator (below the ‘Jaeger-LeCoultre’ text), and the date in a window between 4 and 5 o’clock.

The hours and minute hands are lumed for visibility, but the GMT hand, not.

There is a classic dual register design to the chronograph component, with a 30-clock minute counter at 3 o’clock and 12-hour counter at 9 o’clock respectively. The third sub-dial is that of a small seconds, at 6 o’clock.

An ever popular red central seconds hand is there to off-set the all-black of the replica watch

As mentioned at the outset, this replica watch feels and sits smaller on the wrist than many 46mm sized replica watches. It comes on a Trieste calfskin strap which has a satin-brushed steel pin buckle. For those who are fans of this type of replica watch but scared of the size, don’t be. The strap is comfortable and it sits well on the wrist.

Inside is the automatic JLC Calibre 757 with 65 hour power reserved, but it is not visible, due to a closed case back. As this is a column-wheel chronograph, the inability to see it may disappoint the movement fans.

How limited is this new model? Well if you want one, there are 500 up for grabs. Australian RRP is $16,900.

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Cartier Replica

Swiss Replica CARTIER : Birds of aFeather Watch

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Having mused about starting with a series of avian pun for this post, I have decided to restrain myself and let today’s two new Cartier Metier d’Art pieces speak for themselves. There is certainly a lot to crow about here.

This first piece from unique replica Cartier is the Floral Marquetry Parrot. In one of their most popular lines and case types, the Ballon Bleu, it is a 42mm 18k rhodium-plated white gold case with 124 brilliant-cut diamonds with a total of 1.80 carats. However, it is the dial that is our focus today.

With rhodium-plated 18 carat white gold and 18 carat pink gold used in the dial’s base and sectioning, this new replica watch utilises the technique of marquetry, more commonly seen in wood (including on replica watches) but here, using rose petals that have been preserved, dyed, and affixed to a thin sliver of wood to assist in cutting of the desired shape before being layered together as plumage to create this macaw.

The skills are really quite extraordinary. Without being told that they are rose petals, one might never guess. The dyeing of the vivid blue, green and yellow is incredibly lifelike. In terms of non-floral elements, the bird’s eye is emerald and the beak, onyx, and the black and off-white feathers surrounding the eye are actually painted onto the dial.

This glorious parrot comes on a white semi-matte alligator strap with a folding clasp in rhodium-plated 18k white gold, and set with forty-three diamonds. Inside is the automatic Calibre 049.

‘In the metal’, this is a very impressive and attention-grabbing piece. The diamonds on the bezel are almost easily forgotten, the eye is drawn to how realistic the plumage is, how vividly alive the bird is on your wrist. Of course, this being part of the Metiers d’Art line, it is a very exclusive piece, limited to 20 numbered pieces.

The second bird to be featured today is a Toucan. Also in an 18k white gold case with 60 brilliant-cut diamonds (total of 1.56 carats), this replica watch features enamelling work and mother-of-pearl to create three different levels of bird and surroundings. The enamelling is done by the craftsman/ woman assembling a gold framework/ sectioning, and then adding three layers of enamel plates of differing thickness. Thus when the light plays on these three superimposed plates, depending on the angle at which you look at the dial, the Toucan seems less of a two-dimensional creature. This is a more whimsical piece than the previous one, the Toucan almost looks slightly perturbed.

To match the blues of the dial, the hands are in blued steel. Inside is the manual wind Calibre 430 MC.

As is the case with the Metiers d’Art Parrot, this comes ln a semi-matte semi-matte white alligator strap with an adjustable 18k rhodium-plated white gold folding buckle set with 43 brilliant-cut diamonds (0.42 carats), and is in a limited edition of ten pieces.

When it comes to Cartier’s new releases, a lot of the focus is on their pieces with broad appeal, or some of their haute horlogerie pieces, it is often too easy to forget to look out for what interesting things they have decided to do artistically with their dials using their in-house artisans. They have a fondness for depicting birds and beasts, and this is one of their strengths, so come next year, keep an eye out.

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Zenith Replica

PRE-BASEL 2014 : Replica Zenith’s Pilot Montre d’Aéronef Type 20 GMT1903

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In the run-up to Baselworld brands will often issue pre-releases of new replica watches, before an official Baselworld launch. Today’s offering from Zenith is one such luxury replica watch, a piece that I had the opportunity to look at in Geneva in January.

On 17 December 1903 the intrepid Wright brothers Wilbur and Orville made the first self-powered aircraft flight. In honour of this flight, Zenith have released a special LE of their Type 20 from the ‘Pilot’ Collection dedicated to the brothers.

The Pilot Montre d’Aeronef Type 20 GMT 1903 is based on the Pilot Montre D’Aeronef Type 20 GMT model. At 48mm with a thickness of 15.80mm this is a bulky replica watch in DLC-coated titanium with a large ratcheted crown, as is typical of pilot’s replica watches.

Inside the replica watch is the in-house made Zenith Elite calibre 693 automatic movement with a power reserve of about 50 hours. Functionally, there is the time, a seconds sub-dial, and a big clear red-tipped second time zone indicator hand that is adjusted via a large pusher on the left of the case.

To reference its 1903 inspiration, Zenith have created an ‘aged’ look to the numerals which are on e black dial, that has been sand-blasted five times to give it a great matte look. The hour markers are Super-LumiNova Old Radium and the hands, black ruthenium, satin-finished with Super-LumiNova SLN Old Radium. If you look at photographs of vintage Zenith flight instruments from the late 1930s, you can immediately see that the design is faithful to it, and that the attempt to ‘age’ it also looks remarkably like how original numerals look now, through the natural ageing process.

As you can see, there are two strap options in one, including a Bund-style one that is vintage-effect nubuck heat-embossed with the “Zenith Flying Instruments” logo. The effort put into decorating this strap makes it special, something beyond just a token ‘vintage’ nod by putting this style of strap on a replica watch. Interestingly, it is actually also the more comfortable of the two straps.

It may be 48mm but feels closer to some 45mm replica watches, and being titanium black DLC reduces the weight significantly. The replica watch’s large size also seems smaller on the supple soft Bund when it’s wrapped around your wrist.

At first glance I wasn’t that taken with the 1903 but as I played a bit with it, spent some time with it, and then tried it on my wrist, it really grew on me.

The caseback is engraved with the Wright brother’s plane, but is discreet in its references (and limited nature).


It comes in a limited edition of 1,903 pieces, with the number appearing on a plate screwed to the side of the case.

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Swiss Replica

NEWS :Replica MBF Performance Art Piece collaboration with XiaHang

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MB&F have just announced their latest ‘Art Piece’ – a collaboration with Chinese artist Xia Hang (about whom you can read more at the M.A.D. Gallery website), some of whose thoughtful whimsical sculptures featuring an E.T.-like creature can be viewed at the M.A.D. Gallery in Geneva.

I was able to preview this new Performance Art piece when I visited M.A.D. Gallery at the end of January.

This new Performance Art Piece is an adaptation of the highly successful Legacy Machine 1, about which you can read here. The nature of Xia Hang’s adaptation of this piece is both inspired and deeply engaging – the power reserve indicator is a miniaturised version of his creature, just 4mm in height. He droops despondently when the (45 hour) power reserve goes down, and rises more cheerily when it goes up.

The small automatons are made in Switzerland and not by Xia Hang, who is used to creating on a somewhat larger scale. They are aluminium (chosen for lightness of weight) which is first crafted and machined, then polished, and then hand-finished. If you look at them under a loupe (I used a Loupe System), you can see the care that has gone into them.

This new Performance Art piece has the LM1 movement in its 44mm case (height of 16mm) and features independent dual time displays; the time on the left dial is set by a crown at 8 o’clock and for the right, at 4 o’clock.

There will be twelve pieces in rose gold and twelve in white gold, priced at CHF 92,000. The creatures are informally called ‘Mr Up’ and ‘Mr Down’ depending on how his power reserve status is going. Each swiss cheap replica watch sold will come with larger models of Mr Up and Mr Down which are numbered and signed by Xia Hang on the base.

The MB&F “Performance Art” pieces are limited editions developed in collaboration with artists that MB&F admire. This new one is very endearing, and if you like the idea of Mr Up and Mr Down, there are larger sculptures by Xia Hang such as those below, at the M.A.D. Gallery.

Whether or not you like this new piece may depend on how you feel about the sculpture. After all, one’s art preferences are a very personal thing. It appeals to me not just because the large Mr Up/ Down sculptures are unexpectedly nostalgic (the similarity to E.T.), but also because they tap into my own interests. However, regardless of whether or not the creature appeals to you or not, there is no denying the ingenuity of the idea of using a small version of him as a part of the Legacy Machine 1, no denying the technical skills behind making this small automaton, and no denying that MB&F continue to surprise.

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Baume & Mercier Replica

SIHH 2014 : BAUME MERCIER Clifton RetrogradeDate

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The emphasis throughout the luxury replica Baume & Mercier presentation at SIHH 2014 was on ‘affordable luxury’, with ‘quality’ and ‘price’ being keywords. With this in mind, amongst the new additions to the Clifton line announced by Baume et Mercier at SIHH 2014 was this, the Clifton Retrograde Date.

In a 43mm stainless steel case (12.05mm thick) and with the Clifton sapphire case back revealing an automatic Soprod 9094 calibre, this is probably, aesthetically speaking, my favourite Clifton to date, as I have a particular liking for retrogrades. In this instance, it is a retrograde date function – for those who don’t know what it is, the blue hand advances each day until the end of the month, whereupon it will snap back to the beginning, to start the new month.

As well as time and the retrograde date, this new model also has a power reserve indicator on the dial. The dial itself is satin-finished silver, with the numerals, indices and hands gilt. It comes on a brown alligator strap.

The price may vary between markets, but the Swiss price is 4,800 CHF. As mentioned at the outset, Baume et Mercier are keen to emphasise that they are ‘affordable luxury’, and with the notable exception of the tourbillion, about which I blogged here, they have been sticking to this.

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Swiss Replica

DE BETHUNE : Dream Replica Watch5

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During ‘Geneva week’, before the start of SIHH 2014 I visited a couple of brands, of which De Bethune was the first. As it was also the brand that I first visited during my inaugural ‘Geneva week’ in 2013 it felt right to start once again, with them. I had already seen a press photo of one of the two pieces they were presenting as ‘novelties’ during this week, but this is the first, the one that I’d not been expecting.

The Dream Machine 5 is the latest in the Dream Machine series for which De Bethune perhaps most memorably created the Dream Machine 4, a 12-piece LE ‘spaceship-inspired’ titanium iPhone shield with a blued titanium sky containing gold and diamond stars and silvered hour and minute disks. This new Machine is, in fact, seen as a combination of the first and fourth Dream Machines. One might not at first glance think that it looks like a De Bethune, but the tell-tale signs are there.

As you can see from the photos, its surface is highly reflective. That’s because its 49mm x 39mm x 11mm case is mirror-polished grade 5 titanium. With its jump hour at 3 o’clock in polished blued grade 5 titanium, minutes disc and the signature De Bethune moonphase indicator (the small globe), this is both futuristic and retro. In a way it reminds me of 1950s and 1960s (especially Hollywood) notions of what future technology might look like. The one carat cabochon-cut ruby in the crown adds a great dash of colour and contrast to the case.

Inside the number 5 is the manual wind DB calibre 2144, which has 329 components including a palladium balance wheel, and five days of power reserve.

The sleek and sexy Dream Machine 5 is made to order and priced at 150,000 CHF.

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Baume & Mercier Replica

SIHH 2014 : Replica Baume & Mercier 1892 Clifton FlyingTourbillon

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In October last year we we one of the first to announce famous replica Baume & Mercier’s new Clifton Flying Tourbillon, about which you can read more in my 2013 post here.

SIHH 2014 brought, along with a formal launch of this piece and the chance to get some live photos for Horologium readers, a display of modern Baume et Mercier replica watches alongside their historical counterparts, including the 1892 Clifton Flying Tourbillon.

As mentioned previously, this replica watch will be limited to thirty pieces and will retail in Australia for AUD65,000.

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Jaeger-LeCoultre Replica

SIHH 2014 : Replica Jaeger-LeCoultre Grand Reverso Ultra Thin 1931Chocolate

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My first SIHH 2014 post is about this replica watch. Why have I chosen this one to be the first? Well because it’s not only the one that I was asked about the most pre-SIHH and at the beginning, but also because I know owners of other 1931 Ultra Thin iterations and naturally, they are curious.

If you are reading this post then the chances are that you know about classic replica Jaeger-LeCoultre’s 180th anniversary last year, and you will know about other colours such as the Reverso Rouge. You will also know that this updated version of the original Reverso is a pretty faithful one, including the colour choice, but for its more modern dimensions.

The chocolate Grande Reverso (Ref. 2782560) has an 18 carat rose gold case measuring 46.8mm x 27.4mm x 7.3mm with a solid caseback that, of course, you can ask to be engraved. It has the manual wind JLC Calibre 822/2 with a power reserve of 45 hours and with 21,600 VPH.

The chocolate brown dial is offset by baton-style gold plated hands, and the dial’s colour is matched to a Casa Fagliano strap that you can see in the photos. So what about the brown? It is a deep brown but not overly so, one of those occasions where saying that something is ‘chocolate brown’ actually means that it looks like chocolate brown. The strap’s colour is a spot-on match for the dial, and its stitching and design give it a more sporty look than its predecessors, as well as being a discreet nod to Casa Fagliano’s boot and polo heritage.

If you are familiar with the Grande Reverso 1931 then the colour will be what you are interested in, as you will already have an idea of size. I can tell you that it is dressy model, but not too much so – it can be dressed up and equally, suits (as shown by one person who was trying it on) a smart casual look, including with a dark blue jacket.

For those who have not handled these models they are, as the name indicates, ‘ultra thin’. They sit snugly and closely to the wrist, and even though the measurements may sound long, the replica watch’s thinness makes it seem smaller, and it sat well even on someone’s 6.5in wrist.

In summary, if you’re a fan of these 1931s then you are probably going to like this one. It’s an elegant and eminently wearable piece, with versatility. If you are one of those enthusiasts who like the brown dial-rose gold combination, then you have another option to consider.

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Swiss Replica

An Explosive Encounter : the C3H5N3O9 Replica Watch

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MB&F and URWERK aren’t strangers to Horologium, and the combination of their quirky and at often groundbreaking approach to timepieces last year courtesy of the C3H5N3O9 Nitroglycerine Experiment ZR102 was unexpected and generated a lot of buzz, but also paid testament to the extraordinary camaraderie that there is amongst many independent brands, for whom collaboration is not unknown.

Earlier this year in the soothingly dark bowels of the 2013 SIHH Press Club I had an unexpected encounter with a Nitro in the wild on the wrist of Ian Skellern. It goes without saying that I had to take a couple of photos, though I have to apologise for their quality; the lighting wasn’t great, but if an occasion presents itself to take some quick snaps of this replica watch, you take it.

For those who haven’t heard of it, the interesting centrepiece of the Nitro is how time is displayed. It looks like a car engine and, in fact, resembles something called a Wankel Engine created by then 17 year old Felix Wankel in 1919, which I shall allow the internet to explain to you better than I can.

In the Nitro’s case, there are eccentric rotating Releaux triangles on the dial, the larger one points to the twelve hour markers and the smaller one to the minute markers, where the minutes are read via the red tips.

There is a power reserve indicator on the back of the high quality replica watch, and all of the marker indicators are luminous, including the aforementioned red tips.

The case is made of Zirconium, which makes it really quite light, and measures 55mm x 44mm. The crown is screw-down, and the replica watch is hand wound, with URWERK behind the movement. Despite the huge size of the replica watch, the lower lugs are articulated and the replica watch wears very comfortably, even on my wrist. There really is something to be said about articulated lugs – these ones are made out of aluminium.

The replica watch is a limited edition of 12 pieces in Zirconium (almost all sold out) and there will be another twelve in black-coated Zirconium. The first Zirconium models are priced at 130,000 CHF and you can place an order at the C3H5N3O9 website. I asked Felix Baumgartner about this new ‘experimental brand’ last year, and if you want to know more about the two men behind this ‘Experiment’, Max Busser and Felix Baumgartner, click on the links to read my interviews with them.

This is a deeply deeply cool replica watch, even if it is a tad too large for my wrist and my credit card.