Category: Feature

Up Close With The Longines Heritage Military COSD

Post author By ukwatches
Post date July 15, 2016

Longines has been a Value Proposition favorite for very good reasons: thanks to their history, they have a pretty fantastic repertoire of great designs and historically important replica watches on which to draw, and the Heritage Longines replica watches are such an inexhaustible supply of great looking, reasonably priced vintage replica watches that I’ve often been tempted to just do the whole collection in one go and save you the trouble of reading a dozen different stories. However, sometimes a replica watch really is worth a stand-alone look-see, and the Heritage Military COSD is one of them.Baume Mercier Replica

In this particular example the movement is suspended in the case in what looks like the shock-absorbing cushion some sources mention as being characteristic of the COSD and its use by paratroopers, and the case has fixed spring bars. They’re a fascinating slice of military history and as you might expect, the folks over at the Military Replica Watch Forum have on several occasions gone very deep indeed into this replica watch; here’s a good place to start.

1 OF 8

Combined Operations in the UK during World War II referred in general to multi-service-branch operations, and more specifically, to operations undertaken by Commando units, which had been formed in the wake of the disastrous rout of the French and British armies in France. In Winston Churchill’s words, they were to be “ . . . specially trained troops of the hunter class who can develop a reign of terror down the enemy coast.” For our purposes, it’s interesting to note that the barrel of the De Lisle carbine is also marked COSD and it’s been suggested that it may actually stand for “Combined Operations Stores Division” or “Depot” – exactly the sort of fine, research-intensive, hard-to-establish point that makes vintage replica watch collecting so potentially interesting.

The short version of the story is that the Military COSD is based on a replica watch issued to the British military – in particular, paratroopers – during the Second World War. As such it looks to have been a very, very straightforward timepiece, designed for two objectives: economy, and sturdiness. According to auction notes from a September auction at Replica Watches of Knightsbridge in the UK, casing material was steel and nickel plate, and COSD is supposed to have stood for “Company Ordnance Supply Depot.” The movement is Longines caliber 12.68N, a gilt-finished caliber that’s rather plain in appearance but also gives the impression of the very high functional quality for which Longines was known.

2 OF 8

Now, one intriguing open question is whether or not COSD actually stands for Company Ordnance Supply Depot. It seems a reasonable assertion and Longines itself says that’s what it stands for, but some detective work by the folks at MWF leads to another piece of military hardware that carries the same initials: a rather fiendish weapon made for British Commando units, designed for silent killing. This is the (in)famous De Lisle Commando Carbine. The De Lisle carbine was one of the quietest weapons ever made; it had an integrated silencer (basically, the gun looks like a giant silencer the size of two tennis ball cans taped together – more properly called a suppressor – with a stock and receiver added as an afterthought) and fired a .45 caliber subsonic round. It was bolt-action only (a semi-automatic firearm is inherently noisier, due to the sound made when the action cycles) and was very much a covert/special operations weapon.

3 OF 8

De Lisle Carbine (image by Atirador from Wikipedia).

4 OF 8

5 OF 8

On the dial is the Broad Arrow mark, which indicates British government property – this, too, has some interesting history behind it. The Broad Arrow was first used by the Office of Ordnance, which was created by King Henry VIII; it’s thought to have been introduced by Sir Philip Sydney, in whose family coat of arms the pheon, or heraldic broad arrow, can be found, in around 1585.

Whatever it may stand for, certainly the replica watches are classic examples of military hardware: almost brutally straightforward in general, and the originals were built to be as accurate and durable as they could be, with absolutely nothing inessential to get between them and the mission. The originals all appear to have been white dialed (at least, I haven’t seen any vintage black dial examples) and those that survived the War occasionally had their cases swapped out for nicer ones by their presumably grateful owners.

6 OF 8

The re-issue we have has a black dial, and other than the movement, the main departure from the original is the presence of a date guichet. If you are the sort of person roused to indignation by that sort of thing you already know it; I’m not personally terribly fundamentalist about a date window, but it’s a deal-breaker for some. Another departure from the original is the use of conventional spring bars rather than the solid, soldered bars in the wartime COSD replica watches; I actually would have loved to see fixed bars on the re-issue but this is another situation where strict fidelity to the original would probably have made the replica watch a bit harder to sell.

7 OF 8

Now, this is supposed to be a Week On The Wrist, so what’s with all the background information? Well, sometimes a huge chunk of the fun in a replica watch is the back-story, and that’s the situation here. It’s a very comfortable, very easy replica watch to wear, but taken alone, with only the background of other modern replica watches, it’s pretty plain-Jane. However, if you understand what’s behind a lot of the design cues, you really do feel, when you put it on, the pull of history that makes wearing a mechanical replica watch interesting. When we got this in from Longines it seemed pretty unremarkable to me, I’ll be honest, but knowing more about the original from which the re-issue is derived is where the pleasure is, and makes you see it in a different light – and it’s a reminder that the most interesting replica watches are usually those that have a story to tell.

The original COSD replica watches I’ve seen all show all the marks you’d expect of heavy use, and the re-issue we have here is unlike them in one pretty noticeable respect: it’s very highly polished. That’s one way among many that I suppose replica watches intended for covert military operations have changed over the years; something that reflective probably would not fit the bill for today’s special/covert operators (who from what I’ve seen tend to – understandably – favor things like G-Shocks anyway). The high reflectivity of the finish might be a sticking point for some, but consider it another link back to a different time and a particular period in the evolution of special forces units, and their equipment.

8 OF 8

The Longines Heritage Military COSD is available from Longines online here; price, $1,700. 40 mm stainless-steel case; sapphire crystal with antireflective coating. Automatic movement, NATO type military strap; available with either opaline/white or black dial. Water resistance 30 meters/100 feet.

Don’t have the HODINKEE App yet? Get years of amazing replica watch content plus new stories, breaking news, and access to great new features like HODINKEE Live, free on iOS.

Tags Longines Heritage Military COSD

Hands-on Swiss Replica Technical Watch Zenith Replica

Meet The Zenith El Primero Reference A3817

Post author By ukwatches
Post date July 14, 2016

If you have been following HODINKEE, you might agree with us that Zenith is a manufacturer that produces some of the more value-for-money replica watches these days. There are few totally in-house chronograph movements that can be had for just around $10,000, and which come in such a variety of dial and case designs ranging from sporty, to totally classic, to something in-between.

1 OF 15

But did you know that the reference A386 was not the only replica watch in the El-Primero family with the tri-color dial? There was one other, less well known cousin to the ref A386, which has a more interestingly designed tri-colored dial: the El Primero reference A3817.

While I’ve owned a few vintage Zenith pieces, I’ve personally never had much wrist time with an El Primero (even though I have previously owned one – more on that later). That changed recently when I got to spend about two weeks with this particular replica watch.

In a sentence, I think it’s pretty awesome.

El Primero (Literally, ‘The First’) Self-Winding Chronograph

2 OF 15

If you remember our article from a while back on the Heuer Monaco, you’ll recall we dug deep into the history of the Heuer Caliber 11 and told you why there are different opinions on who actually produced the first self-winding chronograph. While Zenith may have first announced the movement and a few prototypes in January of 1969, Heuer is arguably the first to make it to global production in August of 1969. And in the midst of all of that, Seiko is said to have released their version of the automatic chronograph as early as May 1969, but only for the Japanese market. The history and discussions are well documented, and you can see a good in-depth article called Project 99 by Jeff Stein here.

3 OF 15

The Zenith El Primero 3019PHC.

But there is little question that Zenith’s El-Primero 3019PHC movement could be considered the most technically advanced of the three. It was a completely integrated movement, as compared to the Caliber 11, which consisted of a Dubois-Depraz chronograph module mated with a base movement from Buren. It also featured a seconds, hour, and minute counter and the date function, as compared to the Seiko 6139, which had neither an hour nor continuous seconds counter (though it did possess the day function – and let’s not forget that the 6139 was also the first automatic chronograph with vertical clutch). Back in the day, the El Primero also was a movement used by many other manufacturers, including Rolex and Movado. And it is a movement still used today in many of Zenith’s replica watches, with only a few modifications since 1969 (Caliber 11, and the 6139 are both long gone). All in all, this is pretty impressive movement, to say the least.

A Week On The Wrist

4 OF 15

Now that we’ve covered a bit of history on the movement, how does the replica watch wear on the wrist?

Before everything else, this is a sizeable replica watch. While not on the level of modern Zeniths, the A3817 measures 37 mm excluding the crown but is 47 mm from lug to lug because of the design of the case. It is slightly smaller in width than the ref A386, which measures 38 mm excluding the crown, but having worn both I feel the A3817 actually feels more substantial on the wrist. This is a replica watch that is sizeable, especially by vintage standards, yet it sits very well on the wrist and fits under the cuff with no issues at all. That is because of the 6.6 mm height of the movement; in comparison, the Caliber 11 movement is ~7.7 mm tall.

6 OF 15

And of course, like the A386, the A3817 has the distinctive tri-color dial. But the A3817 gets more creative with a very unique blue sub-seconds hand on the 9 o’clock sub-dial, which is also painted with blue indices. The A386, in comparison, has all sub-dials painted with white indices with uniformly white hands.

7 OF 15
The reference A3817 (image via OmegaForums).

5 OF 15

The case itself takes elements from both the ref A386 and ref A78x family. It is still somewhat tonneau shaped, but is a lot more angular than the ref A78x (the A3817 actually has visible lugs, for instance). The edges on the case are distinct and sharp, similar to the ref A386. The surface of the steel case also has a brushed finish, which lends it an interesting look.

The indices also have an interesting pyramidal shape, which I believe is only limited to the A3817 and A3818 in the family of El Primero chronographs (though there are a few non-chronograph Zenith replica watches which have it, such as the Autosport Luxe). At every 5 minute mark is an applied metal marker with a stripe of lume down the middle, something we see in other El Primero references as well.

The case design was an unexpected, but pleasant surprise. It departs from a ‘typical’ case design (such as in the A386), which usually has a circular and symmetric center that envelops the dial. At the same time, it is not too funky, in comparison to the case design of the ref A781/2/3 family. I used to own a ref A783 – now that was a chunky replica watch. It felt like I was wearing a block of metal on my wrist, and as a result that replica watch never really got much wrist time despite the amazing El Primero movement that beat inside. The ref A3817 is a nice balance between the two: innovative, different, but still sleek; retaining a classic elegance with a dash of eccentricity.

8 OF 15

The reference A386 (Image via OmegaForums).

As a note, these replica watches typically came with a hand in a lighter shade of blue than the example in this article (see the picture above on the left). Initially I thought the sub-seconds hand on my replica watch might have been a replacement, but after searching around I’ve come across quite a few replica watches with the same dark-blue hands. The darker hand is also slightly thinner, and some of the examples I’ve seen with the darker hand have the set of all three sub-dial hands just slightly thinner than its counterparts with the lighter blue hand – which again might suggest that the hands are not individually replaced, but rather come as a set.

The replica watch further features a red paddle hand, which can be found in many of the El Primero chronographs made by Zenith in this era. Of note is the white dial surrounded by a grey ring, which displays both a tachymeter and a Base 15 pulsations scale – which are seen also on some other references, such as the ref A3818 and A788.

9 OF 15

Note that this reference should come with a signed crown and case back.

10 OF 15

11 OF 15

The “SP 1301” engraved on the inside of the case back is a reference to the type of the case (produced by Spillman – hence SP). There are a few variations (SP 1205 and SP 1301-1, for instance) for different models in the El Primero family.

12 OF 15

Again, recall that this movement beat at 5hz (36,000 beats per hour), which means that it could have a measurement accurate to one-tenth of a second. This is in comparison to most chronographs of that era, which beat at 2.5hz and could only measure to one-fifth of a second. The video below (in slow motion) compares the El Primero 3019PHC with a Gallet Multichron powered by the Valjoux 72. Notice that the El Primero beats exactly twice as fast as the Valjoux 72.

The ref A3817 was roughly 30 seconds fast after a week on the wrist – which is not bad at all for a vintage replica watch. Remember, the El Primero beats twice as fast as most other vintage replica watches (18,000 vph vs. 36,000 vph) and thus should, all other things being equal, offer better rate stability. A slower beat classic chronograph movement like a Valjoux 72 should theoretically not perform as well as a faster beat movement, but in practice whether that’s true will probably depend more on how recently, and just as importantly, how well, the replica watch was serviced, adjusted and regulated.

About 1,000 pieces of the ref A3817 were produced, in comparison to around 2,500 pieces for the ref A386, which makes the A3817 significantly rarer. While prices for Zenith ref A386s have been climbing significantly over the past few years, and you probably wouldn’t be able to find a good example for anything less than $10,000, the A3817 can typically be found at some discount. A decent example might be found for less than $8,000, perhaps adding on $500 to $1,000 for examples with a bracelet. For instance, we contacted the seller of this example in pretty decent condition (except for the sweep seconds hand) and learned that it sold for around $8,500. That said, prices seem to be steadily catching up to the ref A386, so we suggest getting one soon if you can.

Tips For Collectors

One important thing for collectors to note: these cases frequently come very heavily polished. The example that is shown here has likely been polished once, but fortunately still retains most all of the characteristics of the original case. One thing to look out for is some amount of clearance between the upper and lower edges of the crystal and the straight edges of the case. Replica Watches that have the edge of the case immediately meeting the lower or upper edges of the crystal are likely to be heavily polished, regardless of finish or sharpness of the lines.

The date window is at roughly 4-5 o’clock. The date, in this movement, switches instantaneously, and if you blink you just might miss it. (Hint: it takes place just before the sub-seconds hand reaches the 5 second mark.)

This replica watch would have originally come on a Zenith ladder bracelet (with either ZK or ZKM endlinks). I recently had the chance to purchase one from a friend and he was gracious enough to let me try it on. In comparison, I have to say the strap felt a lot more comfortable. While wearing the A3817 on a bracelet is probably the “original” way to wear the replica watch, I honestly preferred the leather strap just from a comfort perspective (and I thought the bracelet looked a bit fragile to be honest). I decided to stay with the leather strap.

13 OF 15

The paint is also notoriously flaky on the hands – notice the same flakiness on the replica watch presented. Finally, the lume on the paddle hand also seems to fall off surprisingly often – again something to replica watch out for.

14 OF 15

Final Thoughts

Overall the Zenith El Primero reference A3817 was a pleasant surprise, and a very fun replica watch to wear. It definitely added some color to my outfit, especially since most of the vintage replica watches I own have at most two-tone dials. The tri-colored dial of this particular reference adds a casual and fun feel, and is balanced nicely by the larger case. I honestly didn’t expect the angular tonneau-shaped case to grow on me, but it did. The replica watch is both elegant and quirky, and you see that design philosophy embedded in both the dial and case.

15 OF 15

For me personally, the final verdict isn’t out yet. I’ll know in about a month when I arrive in Paris (where my girlfriend currently is). Stay tuned.

Don’t have the HODINKEE App yet? Get years of amazing replica watch content plus new stories, breaking news, and access to great new features like HODINKEE Live, free on iOS.

Tags Zenith El Primero Reference A3817

Dress Watch Hands-on Swiss Replica Zenith Replica

Hands-on With Zenith StarMoonphase

Post author By ukwatches
Post date July 13, 2016

Today’s replica watch is a slightly unusual creature. The Star Moonphase is a 37mm cushion-cased replica watch in stainless steel containing the Elite Calibre 692, which has a power reserve of fifty hours.

With a thickness of 10.50mm to the 37mm size this is a what for me, is a more realistically sized modern cushion case replica watch. There are other cushion cases on the market at the moment but I’ve found that many are a tad on the big size for most people. The Star Moonphase however, sits perfectly, with none of the sides jutting out, and no necessity to push it above my wrist to sit properly. I became quite attached to it during my couple of weeks with it, wearing it most of the time. It is, however, very much a dress replica watch. That’s not to say that it doesn’t look good with. jeans and a t-shirt, but they don’t feel like its natural home.

Part of the Star Collection which is clearly targeted at women, it is perhaps the least stereotypically (and overtly) female-targeted piece in the line. After having spent a few weeks with it, and having shown it to a large number of people, I’d even be so bold as to suggest that Zenith either change the strap (more on that later) and market it as a unisex piece, or somehow not categorise it at all.

So, to the strap. It is black alligator leather with protective rubber lining. The lining is a bonus for those who live in warmer climes and worry about the effect of perspiration on leather, and it comes on a very secure triple-folding clasp.

There is, however, one small issue – it is quite short. This is something that is readily rectified with a strap change, but after my weeks with it and letting quite a few people try it on, it became apparent that there were men who would consider buying it for its looks and size, but the strap being so short hinted at it being targeted at women, and whether I like it or not, this will be a factor in the decision-making process of many.

With its shiny rhodium-plated hands the anthracite dial with guilloché motif has more ‘depth’ to it than appears at first glance. Its dial colour almost seems to change colour depending on lighting; occasionally showing hints of chocolate under certain conditions and greyish under others. Without the guilloché this colour (and thus the replica watch) might have felt a bit lifeless, but with the texture allowing the play of light on it, it looks good.

This is not to say that there weren’t plenty of men who can wear it on this strap, because there were, but it is noticeably short. Putting it on another strap might just open up a few more minds to what is quite an attractive replica watch.

The Australian RRP for the Zenith Star Moonphase is $7,800.

Tags Hands-on, On the wrist, Sydney, watches, Women's watches

Hands-on Men Watch Montblanc Replica Swiss Replica Technical Watch

MONTBLANC Presents 1858 Chronograph Tachymeter Blue LimitedEdition

Post author By ukwatches
Post date July 12, 2016

The vintage looks of the collection have been one of the reasons for their popularity (another has been the entry price into the collection). The 1858 is named for the founding year of Minerva, now a part of Montblanc, and so it finds itself into the replica watch as well.

Following last year’s launch of its 1858 Chronograph Tachymeter in rose gold, which itself was part of a new collection whose new pilots replica watches have been a market success, Montblanc has extended the collection with the addition of a stainless steel case version of the Chronograph with a dark blue dial, in a limited edition of 100 pieces.

The historically-inspired cathedral hands, typeface and dial design are now familiar, but being a modern replica watch, the hands and numerals are coated in SuperLumiNova. It comes in a 44mm sized case (height of 13.15mm) and on a blue alligator strap to match the dial colour. The size of the case is basically down to the fact that the movement is a rather significant 38.4mm.

Inside is the manual-wind Montblanc Caliber M16.29, a pocket-watch style monopusher column-wheel chronograph, with both a large screwed balance and swan neck regulator. It is inspired by the Minerva 17.29 movement from 1929 and is hand-finished. As you can tell, if you are into replica watch photography then this will probably provide you with many hours of enjoyment. As @initialjh who photographed it likes saying, the devil is in the details – of the chronograph. The movement has 252 parts and you can see how much work has gone into it.

I liked the pilots’ replica watches when they were released last year and have not seen the rose gold version of this one to compare, but this blue and stainless steel version is a good looking replica watch and a fitting tribute both inside and out, to its 1930s inspiration. This is very much a replica watch for the chronograph fans amongst us.

Tags chronograph, Hands-on, Limited Editions, SIHH 2016, Switzerland, Watch movements, Watch Profile

Blancpain Replica Dive Watch Hands-on Swiss Replica

Diving deep with Mark’s Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Chronographe Flyback Quantieme Complet

Post author By ukwatches
Post date July 10, 2016

It was back in 1953 the first commercial Fifty Fathoms was released. Blancpain developed the Fifty Fathoms for French combat divers. The story begins when Captain Robert “Bob” Maloubier and Lieutenant Claude Riffaud, both commanders at the French Combat Diving School, were in the market for a replica watch that could withstand the rigors of their elite diving force. The Fifty Fathoms was that replica watch. Although it has evolved considerably, both aesthetically and technically, since it’s inception.

In 1953, Blancpain launched their Fifty Fathoms – the father of modern dive replica watches. One of the things I find interesting about the Fifty Fathoms in particular, is the process that took place in creating it.fakewatch

Two French naval officers, Captain Robert “Bob” Maloubier and Lieutenant Claude Riffaud, were in need of a replica watch for their military diving missions, so they developed a list of specifications. There was just one problem: none of the replica watches available on the market at the time made their cut. Meanwhile in Switzerland, Jean-Jacques Fiechter – who happened to be the CEO of Blancpain (1950-1980) – was passionate about a certain sport, diving. The two officers came into contact with Fiechter and, according to some sources, there was little need to convince him about the project. I am intrigued because this crucial moment ignited a process which ultimately led to the conception of what would become the Fifty Fathoms.

The reason it is still seen as a grail replica watch for many, is that it has managed to maintain that DNA that was so vital for divers in the 50’s to ensure their safety and execution in action. I never tire of hearing the stories behind why replica watches mean so much to individuals and this week on the Collector Series we discuss the glorious Fifty Fathoms Chronographe Flyback Quantième Complet with enigmatic collector Mark Sinclair. This is not the first time Mark has featured on the Series, as we covered his stunning Patek Philippe 5960P here.

Mark, Blancpain, as a manufacturer, has an illustrious heritage; can you tell us a little more about that and how much of a role this played in your decision to buy a Fifty Fathoms Chronographe Flyback Quantième Complet?

Jehan-Jacques Blancpain established Blancpain in 1735 making it one of the oldest brands in replica watchmaking. It was – according to some sources – under the management of the Blancpain family for almost two centuries until the early 1930s, when Betty Fiechter and André Léal bought the business and continued it under the name Rayville Ltd., successors to Blancpain. Betty Fiechter remained director of Blancpain until 1950, when her nephew, Jean-Jacques Fiechter, joined her. Now this is where it starts to get interesting.

Maloubier and Riffaud needed a replica watch that would fit their requirements, but Fiechter also had his own ideas based on his experience in the diving milieu. A fusion of ideas and actual requirements, one might say. First and foremost, the replica watch had to be water resistant, so Fiechter developed a double sealed crown. It was a stroke of genius as it would protect the replica watch from water intrusion if the crown accidentally got pulled out during a dive, as the second inner seal would protect the replica watch.

Another key invention included a bezel which featured a special locking mechanism. Fiecther’s original locking mechanism required the wearer to push the bezel in order to rotate it, reminiscent of the system used by IWC in their Aquatimer (ref. 3536). Not only did this prevent inadvertent rotation of the bezel, but it also prevented sand and salt from interfering with its operation. Fiechter patented these inventions. Other vital elements in Fiechter’s design included a self-winding movement and antimagnetic properties. The former was important in order to reduce wear on the crown and its seals, which would occur with manual winding, while the latter was important to protect the movement from magnetism.

Blancpain – like many other companies in the industry – was affected by the quartz crisis in the 1970s which led Blancpain to become dormant for a while. But like Charles Perrault’s “Sleeping Beauty”, things turned out for the better. In the early 1980s, Jacques Piguet, who happens to be the son of Frédéric Piguet, bought the Blancpain brand together with Jean-Claude Biver for 22,000 CHF when Omega, who at the time owned the Blancpain brand, needed capital in order to finance their restructuring.

Jean-Claude Biver started to “re-create” Blancpain and soon came up with a replica watch featuring a moon phase and complete calendar, while most Swiss companies were developing quartz movements. It is admirable when people swim against the current and defy the odds. They were, however, just warming up and went on to introduce a self-winding perpetual calendar in 1985, and at the end of 1988, Blancpain was able to present all of the six masterpieces: ultra-thin, tourbillon, minute repeater, split seconds chronograph, perpetual calendar and moon phase. All of which were featured in the same round case, measuring 33 mm in diameter, cf. the interview of J.C. Biver here, on Hodinkee’s Talking Replica Watches.

The Fifty Fathoms, however, was first ‘“truly” reborn under the stewardship of Marc A. Hayek in 2003, when a limited series of Fifty Fathoms was launched to commemorate its 50th anniversary. The series itself consisted of 50 replica watches, each in three different versions. But it was not until 2007 that the Fifty Fathoms collection became fully re-established. I find this history of “struggle” and “success” fascinating, as I can relate to it on a personal level. One could say I am drawn to the history both on an objective and a subjective level.

Oh, it should be pointed out that Biver and Piguet cashed in a whopping return of 60 million CHF, when they sold the brand to SSIH (today known as Swatch Group) in 1992. The history of both Blancpain and Fifty Fathoms played a significant role in my decision to buy this replica watch.

Combining these ideas and innovations with those of Maloubier and Riffaud, Fiechter was able to present a diving watch that would fit the needs of the French combat diving corps. We are talking about a purpose built replica watch based on ideas and requirements of people on different paths of their lives. This is fascinating, at least in my opinion.

The Fifty Fathoms, however, was not only the preferred choice of some special forces, it was also worn by Jacques-Yves Cousteau and Louis Malle during the shooting of “The Silent World” – both a Hollywood Oscar winner and winner of the Palme d’Or at the Cannes Festival in 1956. Blancpain went on to create a myriad of different models under the stewardship of Fiechter, but things soon turned bad for the watchmaking industry.

When and where did you come to own the replica watch?

I bought it back in 2013, which coincidentally was the 60th anniversary of Blancpain’s Fifty Fathoms. The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Chronographe Flyback Quantieme Complet (ref. 5066F-1140-52B) was, however, launched in 2010 along with the Tribute to Fifty Fathoms (ref. 5015B-1130-52), among others.

It was sold by an authorized dealer in Scandinavia, and it had a suggested retail price of approx. 20,000 Euros in 2013, which was “fair” compared to the other alternatives available at that time. The price, however, has increased over the years, and it is currently priced at approx. 24,000 Euros.

From the line up at Blancpain, why the Fifty Fathoms Chronographe Flyback Quantième Complet?

It is a good question, as it deviates from the traditional line of dive replica watches in the industry.

I honestly put a lot of thought into acquiring this watch. We are talking about a diving replica watch – fully capable of withstanding 300 metres of water – which features a significant number of complications consisting of a complete calendar, flyback chronograph and moon phases. However, there is more than meets the eye at first glance, but in order to appreciate the full experience, we will need to turn our attention to the back.

This replica watch features a revolutionary way of setting the calendar indications and moon phase by pushing one of the four patented under-lug correctors (introduced by Blancpain in 2004) which are dedicated for the date (corrector 3, located at 7 o’clock), day of the week (corrector 4, located at 11 o’clock), month and moon phases (correctors 1 and 2, located at 1 and 5 o’clock, respectively).

Had you been considering other diving replica watches?

Many collectors and enthusiasts within our hobby keep a bucket list, and the Fifty Fathoms has been a favourite of mine for a long time, which is why I was determined to acquire a Fifty Fathoms. Of course, Rolex’s Submariner cannot be ignored in this instance, but if you already own a Submariner or have had the pleasure of using one, I would reckon a “standard” Fifty Fathoms (ref. 5015-1130-52) should rank high on one’s bucket list – even surpassing Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Offshore Diver, Omega’s Seamaster 300 and Girard Perregaux’s Seahawk – just to mention a few.

The Fifty Fathoms is a “must-have” on one’s bucket list, if you are interested in diving replica watches with a history. In my opinion, the currently available collection of “standard” Fifty Fathoms are capable of echoing the history of their roots, despite the changes of circumstances and technical upgrades.

For instance, if you look closely at the “standard” Fifty Fathoms, you will notice that it has retained some DNA from its iconic forefather: a white against black colour scheme, a triangle “’zero” marker on the rotating bezel, Arabic numerals (3, 6, 9 and 12) on the dial etc. It also has a domed sapphire crystal on the front and on the bezel, which adds a vintage feel. The movement (calibre 1315) currently used is, however, miles ahead compared to the one in the original Fifty Fathoms.

Blancpain was also – according to Jean-Claude Biver – never as prestigious as it is today. Despite of these changes and upgrades, the currently available Fifty Fathoms are still capable of echoing the history of their roots more or less depending on the model.

Was this a purchase for use as a tool replica watch?

No, I normally do not wear a replica watch when doing strenuous activities that might damage the replica watch. I do care about the condition of my replica watches, as a collector. One might consider it a shame, especially in this instance, because the original Fifty Fathoms served the special forces of different countries, including the US and the French, and specialists in the field of ocean exploration, but I do not feel comfortable wearing a replica watch during strenuous activities. It just does not feel right to wear a mechanical replica watch when bringing stuff to the recycling plant or fixing one’s allotment hut.

I think it is fascinating that this watch offers all these features and successfully has undergone one or more water resistant tests – meeting the ISO 6425 norms. Blancpain, however, clearly points out in their manual that the Fifty Fathoms models are not professional diving instruments and must be backed up where necessary by professional instruments, e.g. diving computers. While talking about water resistance, it is interesting to know the actual story behind the name “Fifty Fathoms”. According to Blancpain (Lettres du Brassus, issue 13 [page 48-51]), Fiechter was inspired by Ariel, the spirit who reluctantly serves the magician Prospero in William Shakespeare’s “The Tempest”. Ariel sings: “Full fathom five thy father lies; Of his bones are coral made.” Fiechter, however, amended the number to “fifty” as “five fathoms” is not deep – just a mere 9.14 metres.

If we look at aspects apart from the technical ones, I adore the symmetry of the different indications on the flinqué dial and its mesmerizing shades of blue which vary depending on the lighting conditions – reminiscent of a 3D hologram card from the 1990s. According to Blancpain, the pattern of the dial is stamped onto it, while the blue colour is achieved by applying it with blue PVD. In my opinion, it blends perfectly together with the blue bezel insert and sailcloth strap. The latter is not abrasive against the skin due to the rubber inlay which also prevents sweat from passing through it. The luminous material on the dial and in the bezel – both of which is covered by a domed sapphire crystal – is bright. Operation of the one-directional bezel is fine, and in my opinion it has a distinct sound which tells it apart from some other diving replica watches on the market.

The replica watch is powered by Blancpain’s calibre 66BF8 and offers up to 40 hours of autonomy. Blancpain’s calibre 66BF8 is based on Frédéric Piguet’s calibre 1185, which is an integrated self-winding column wheel chronograph with a vertical clutch, and is in fact one of the thinnest self-winding chronographs in the world. It is regarded as a top-tier chronograph movement by collectors and enthusiasts around the globe, and it has been widely used in other replica watches, including: Vacheron Constantin’s Overseas (ref. 49150), Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak (ref. 26300), Officine Panerai’s Luminor (ref. PAM 045 and 105), Breguet’s Marine Chronograph (ref. 3460), Cartier’s Pasha (ref. 2113), Alain Silberstein’s Bolido Krono (ref. BK 84) and many more.

The finish of the movement is fine, featuring circular graining on the main plate and chamfered bridges, Geneva striping on the automatic winding module and balance cock, polished screw-heads and an oscillating weight resembling a nautilus (crafted in 21 ct. gold, according to PR Specialist Aude Rosati from Blancpain).

Wait a minute, did I just use the word “module”? Yes, I did, because Piguet’s calibre 1185 is an automatic version of Piguet’s calibre 1180 which is manually wound. Wait a minute again, did I mention “Frédéric Piguet” a couple of times? Yes, I did, because in all fairness, the movement was created back in the days when Frédéric Piguet was a manufacturer of Swiss ébauche movements, which is why I refer to it as Frédéric Piguet. Frédéric Piguet SA has not existed for some years now because Swatch Group integrated them into Blancpain in 2010, thus making it Manufacture Blancpain, even though Swatch Group did in fact own Frédéric Piguet SA before the “transition”.

It eliminates the need of an adjusting tool because it can be done by using one’s fingertip, which becomes handy as you need to adjust the indications five times a year, if you intend to use it on a daily basis. One must remember that a complete calendar functions like a plain calendar, even though the extra indications might give another impression.

This solution is not only user-friendly, but it also makes the case aesthetically pleasing to look at, since there are no adjusters on the sides of the case – unlike most calendar replica watches, e.g. Langematik Perpetual (ref. 310.032), Equation du Temps Royal Oak (ref. 26603ST.OO.D002CR.01) and Patek’s Annual Calendar Chronograph (5905P-010). However, Blancpain did not just settle for this and went the extra mile: their design allows the user to “set” the calendar indications and moon phase at any given time of the day or night – again unlike most calendar replica watches on the market as this can damage the delicate components of the calendar complication. With this replica watch, if you accidentally push one or more of the correctors within a certain time frame, it simply does not affect the mechanics, and the indications do not change. How cool is that? This unique way of setting the calendar indications and moon phase is actually one of the main reasons behind this acquisition.

It should be pointed out that the chronograph is in fact operational at pressures of up to 300 metres of water (30 bars) and features a flyback mechanism (also known as “retour en vol”) which allows the user to stop the timing of the first interval and measure successive time intervals by only pressing one button. Blancpain happens to be the first brand to incorporate it in a ladies’ timepiece.

The moon phase complication is by some enthusiasts and collectors considered redundant, especially on diving replica watches. But this emotional or poetic complication (an affectionate term used by some enthusiasts and collectors) can become useful when diving, because the moon is at its brightest when full, thus offering better diving conditions. Furthermore, a recent study shows that sharks may dive deeper when the moon is full. The chances of meeting a diver or even a farmer wearing a high-end mechanical replica watch while out in the field is slim, but at least one cannot consider this complication as utterly useless. Aside from that it is also a signature complication for Blancpain, so it would be a shame not to own a replica watch that features so much DNA from the company.

To wrap things up, it is a successful timepiece, despite it being a playful interpretation of a diving replica watch far apart from its forefathers. It is a hybrid between diving and high horology offering the properties of both worlds, and this combination is not often seen in one replica watch. This is a quality I find intriguing and charming at the same time.

That is also one of the reasons as to why I bought it, Justin.

The Fifty Fathoms Chronographe Flyback Quantième Complet is not an insignificant replica watch on the wrist. Did the size concern you at all?

I was fortunate enough to have a test drive with one of its siblings done in red gold (ref. 5015-3630-52), before making the final call. This test drive put my initial concerns to rest because it is not an insignificant replica watch, if you only focus on the specifications on paper.

The Fifty Fathoms is definitely a replica watch one must try on one’s wrist before making a final decision because it does not feel big at all, even though it has a diameter of 45.00 mm and is 17.40 mm thick. It is actually deceiving because it feels and looks smaller than a Panerai Luminor, e.g. PAM 524 (Luminor 1950 3 Days Chronograph Flyback), despite the latter having a smaller diameter.

Normally I tend to avoid replica watches larger than 44 mm in diameter, but I am prone to make an exception, if we are talking about a truly special piece, and this is the case with the Fifty Fathoms.

Have you visited the Blancpain Manufacture?

No, unfortunately. However, I would not refuse an invitation, if it would fit into my schedule.

As an owner, what three pieces of advice would you give to someone looking to buy a diving replica watch?

First of all, I urge you to do your homework before acquiring any replica watch in general as it eliminates or at least minimizes the risk of making a decision that you will later regret. You do not need to own every diving replica watch ever made. Try to maintain a focus by creating a set of rules, if you want to start a collection of diving replica watches, e.g. diving replica watches from a certain period, diving replica watches with a history, diving replica watches with a depth gauge (see photo below) or something else.

How does its size fit into your lifestyle?

It does not fit into my lifestyle, as I am mostly sitting behind a desk doing legal activities of some sort. However, I do exercise regularly and play badminton occasionally, but I prefer not wearing a replica watch under those circumstances.

I know it sounds odd, but I get this sensation of being thrown off balance with the added weight on just one wrist, and I will not wear a second replica watch on my other wrist to counter this sensation. Maybe I should give one of those lightweight watches from Richard Mille a try?

What three words would you use to describe the Fifty Fathoms Chronographe Flyback Quantième Complet?

Sub-zero, cool and exuberant.

Is there anything you would change about the replica watch?

Initially, I was not too fond of the inscription on the left side of the case, but once you understand the nature of this horological Kraken, you will forget about it. The replica watch is a high-end mechanical diving replica watch, thus featuring elements from both worlds, so it does not seem out of place to embellish it with an inscription which blends so well with the flinqué dial.

Secondly, there is no need to buy a diving replica watch capable of withstanding enormous pressure which will kill a human being. It seems excessive as Aquaman and other comic book characters are a work of fiction. Yes, Patrick Musimu did shatter the previous “No Limits” world record in free diving by diving to 209 metres in 2005, but he – and other practitioners within the field – are/were professionals. This is not the case with the majority of watch enthusiasts on Internet forums, some of which disqualify diving replica watches solely based on their water resistance being less than 500 metres – even though most diving replica watches go through their existence as desk divers.

Thirdly, remember to have the gasket(s) checked once in a while, as water and other liquids can cause devastating effects on the movement in particular. It is classic advice, but every now and then consumers, and even replica watch enthusiasts, forget this important rule of thumb.

Tags Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Chronographe Flyback Quantieme Complet

Calendar Watch Hands-on Omega Replica Swiss Replica

Meet The Omega Speedmaster ‘First Omega In Space’

Post author By ukwatches
Post date July 10, 2016

This week on my wrist is the Omega Speedmaster “First Omega In Space,” a replica watch inspired by a historically important model worn in space on October 3, 1962, by U.S. astronaut Walter Schirra – an event to which the new model owes its name. We raved about the FOIS when it was introduced in 2012. An affordable manually wound chronograph with great history, it seemed to hit a chord with both the nostalgic, and those new to the brand. It certainly looks the part, but how does it feel on the wrist?omegawatchreview

The good news is that OMEGA have kept many of the features that make CK2998 one of the most collectible pre-moon Speedmasters, from the iconic 12-hour, three-register layout, to the elongated “Alpha” hands and black tachymeter scale on the bezel. Many of these aesthetic elements are back, albeit with some minor changes.

1 OF 15

The Speedmaster, with its black dial inspired by the dashboard of Italian sports cars, had a strong look that definitely seems to have caught Schirra’s eye, and he eventually set his sights on a reference CK2998 (the exact case reference remains a mystery, although -4 and -5 are the most likely bets).

2 OF 15
Side by side: The FOIS and reference CK2998-4.

3 OF 15

The story goes that Walter Schirra decided to go replica watch shopping in Houston, Texas, a few months before the Mercury-Atlas 8 mission, knowing he would become the fifth man to travel to space. Perhaps he wanted to mark the momentous occasion. That part remains legend, though, as a second-generation aviator and military pilot, Schirra would most probably have heard of OMEGA and its relatively new racing chronograph.

4 OF 15

What makes the First Omega In Space such a distinctive Speedmaster is the symmetry of the design. The straight lugs and thin bevel between the top and the sides are directly inspired by CK2998, and were a common feature of early pre-moon Speedmasters, until Omega decided to adopt asymmetrical twisted lugs after 1964 (with the appearance of the Speedmaster Professional). Another feature brought back from the original CK2998 is the applied logo at 12 o’clock, which pops off the dial unlike the more commonly printed logo of post-1968 Speedmasters.

5 OF 15

The stainless steel case measures 39.7 mm, which is 2-3 mm smaller than most of the Speedmaster replica watches currently in production, and the replica watch itself is very well proportioned. The replica watch, like most Speedmasters, is so comfortable it’s easy to forget you’re wearing it.

6 OF 15

As you’d expect, the First Omega In Space isn’t an exact replica of the replica watch Schirra bought more than half a century ago. That would’ve been wishful thinking on our part. According to OMEGA’s records, the replica watch Schirra wore in space had straight register hands, including the running seconds hand. For the FOIS, OMEGA decided to introduce a leaf-shaped seconds hand. It’s not historically correct, but I found the use of the leaf shape for all of the timekeeping functions (hour, minute and seconds hands), coupled with their stainless-steel composition is a very smart way to differentiate them from the white baton hands that are used solely for the purpose of the chronograph function.

Speedmasters were designed with the scale on the bezel to give the replica watch the intended sporty look OMEGA were after. The FOIS still retains a lot of the motorsports inspiration and look that characterized early Speedmasters. Add to that a brown leather strap and you feel like you’re in Monza, about to grab the wheel of 335 S Spider Scaglietti. This is a look should age very well as the leather of the new strap loses its shine with passing years.

11 OF 15

What the First Omega In Space does do is give you the chance to discover this great movement in a Speedmaster sans crown guards. Personally, I find it adds to the enjoyment of winding the replica watch, and you’ll be doing that every day as the power reserve is only 48 hours. But would you complain about having to refuel a great vintage automobile every time you take it out for a spin? It’s definitely part of the experience you’re paying for.

12 OF 15

The case back is probably where the re-edition differs most noticeablys from the original. A portal into the past of the replica watch, it pays homage to Schirra’s own. It features a screw-down case back embossed with the words “First Omega In Space,” the date of Schirra’s space flight, and the original 1962 execution of the OMEGA Hippocampus.

7 OF 15

Whether or not OMEGA could have made a replica watch more in the image of Schirra’s CK2998 matters little in the end. The changes introduced are few and far in between, noticeable only to experts, and they do not make the FOIS any less enjoyable to wear on a daily basis.

8 OF 15

One of the finer details overlooked by OMEGA however is the placement of the “dot” next to, and not above the 90 mark on the tachymeter scale – a detail that sounds insignificant but would have brought a lot of pleasure to the purists, of which there are so many.

9 OF 15

There are also inevitable question marks about the movement which powers the First Omega in Space. Schirra’s CK2998 was powered by the famous Omega caliber 321, one of the finest and most collectible movements ever made. However, the Lemania-based column-wheel chronograph movement had a relatively short production run, and was soon replaced by ones that were easier and less expensive to produce in large quantities. The First Omega In Space carries such a movement, caliber 1861, which is the latest evolution of caliber 321.

10 OF 15

Creating a link with all modern Speedmaster Professional replica watches, this movement may not have the cachet with collectors of the 321, but it’s a proven movement in its own right. It’s worth a good look (which the FOIS does not offer, as it has a solid caseback) but fear not, we recently filmed it during a servicing of an vintage Speedmaster at Manfredi Jewels in Greenwich, CT.

13 OF 15

The “First Omega In Space” looks like a vintage Speedmaster, and feels like one too. While it falls just a tiny bit short of complete historical fidelity to CK2998, it doescaptures the magic of this historical timepiece. If the Speedmaster was originally designed to stand apart from other chronographs, the First Omega In Space fits the bill. A numbered edition, the OMEGA Speedmaster “First Omega In Space” is available at $5,300 and comes on a brown leather strap. Bracelets can be added for a premium.

14 OF 15

The Omega Speedmaster “First Omega In Space” is available in steel; Diameter, 39.7 mm; Water resistance 50 meters; Solid screw-down case back. Dial, black. Tachymeter, black. Movement, Caliber 1861 with Rhodium-Plated Finish, manual-winding, 48-hour power reserve, running in 18 jewels, 21,600 vph. Hours, minutes, seconds, with chronograph. Numbered Edition. Price, $5,300. More from Omega right here.

15 OF 15

Don’t have the HODINKEE App yet? Get years of amazing replica watch content plus new stories, breaking news, and access to great new features like HODINKEE Live, free on iOS.

Tags Omega Speedmaster 'First Omega In Space'

Hands-on Lady's Watch Luxury Watch Swiss Replica Van Cleef & Arpels Replica

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Produces Lady Arpels Ronde desPapillons

Post author By ukwatches
Post date July 7, 2016

One of Van Cleef’s major new releases this year is the Ronde des Papillons, the latest in the line of mechanically complicated and quintessentially Van Cleef & Arpels-styled ‘feminine’ Poetic Complication replica watches. In this instance, the time telling, something which Van Cleef & Arpels excels at playing around with for their women’s replica watches, is done via three butterflies as indicators.

The swallow is always visible, moving across the display. The butterfly displaying the correct minute travels as time passes. Pressing the button at 8 o’clock will activate all the butterflies, all of which will fly through the clouds and, after ten seconds, return to their original (time indicator) position.

The dial has four fan-form dials. Clockwise from 12 o’clock : one for 30-45 minutes, one for 46-60 minutes, one for 0-12 hours, and a fourth for 0-30 minutes.

Now I’m the first to say that butterflies (real or imagined) are nice enough but not really necessarily something I would choose to have on a replica watch, but stop and look beyond them, as it is not just about the butterflies but it is also very much about what is behind them, what is driving them. To those who want to dismiss this replica watch out of hand because because they see butterflies and clouds and want to tune out, don’t. Don’t jump to conclusions, and take some time to really examine this interesting new replica watch.

First things first – for those who are in Australia Van Cleef & Arpels are coming very soon, with their first opening in Melbourne. So if you’ve ever been curious but not had the opportunity to look at the replica watches and jewellery, you won’t have as far to travel now. With what appears to be a rather large number of replica watch brand boutiques that are slated to open in 2016, it is a nice vote of encouragement for the local replica watch market.

The replica watch features an unusual retrograde display, with mechanical animation on activation. The hours are indicated by a swallow that acts as a retrograde indicator, starting at ‘0’ and ending at ’12’ before jumping back to the beginning. More unusual is the minutes display, where the ‘hands’ are three differently coloured (pink, yellow, red) butterflies ‘flying’ at different paces thanks to an elliptical gear.

As I said at the outset this replica watch, and in fact this is the case for the Poetic Complications in general, has its own whimsy and beauty of design which is combined with some serious replica watchmaking. If there is one replica watch/ jewellery brand that really seems to consistently go out of its way to do something really worth recognising in combining jewellery and some unexpected realisations of replica watchmaking into a themed replica watch, it’s Van Cleef & Arpels, so welcome to Australia.

The base of the multi-layered dial is made of mother-of-pearl that has been painted a pale blue to represent the sky, with white gold discs with mother-of-pearl inlay clouds. The applied numerals are also white gold, as are the swallow and butterflies, which are hand engraved and painted.

Inside the 38mm white gold case is an automatic movement developed for Van Cleef & Arpels, but that’s all I know. However, given their strong ties with Agenhor, with whom they have worked closely, it is not inconceivable that could be them again.

Tags Hands-on, SIHH 2016, Van Cleef Arpels, Watch Profile, watches

Dress Watch H.Moser &Cie Replica Hands-on

HANDS-ON With H.Moser Cie Swiss AlpWatch

Post author By ukwatches
Post date July 6, 2016

Remember this video? As a piece of low cost guerilla marketing it was inspired, with its coverage far and wide amongst tech press, many (most?) of whom didn’t really seem to get the point, or humour.

If nothing else, the dial makes it unmistakably Moser but when I held it, did I think of the Fruit Replica Watch or the Swiss Alp? Interestingly (to me), the latter. When it came out, when I posted the video, all I could think of was this replica watch as a ‘statement’, but it’s really more than that.

I found that I was not thinking that this is one brand’s playful message to the Fruit Replica Watch when I held it, when I tried it on. I was simply on what was before me. As one would expect of a well made white gold replica watch it feels solid, enduring. This isn’t a wrist piece with a very short shelf life, and as a replica watch (versus as a ‘reaction’) it does stand on its own.

Inside is something that doesn’t have an inbuilt obsolescence – the in-house manual wind Calibre HMC 324 (18,000 VPH) with hacking seconds and four days of power reserve (a power reserve indicator is visible on the back). This is a movement that measures 32.0mm x 36.0mm x 4.80mm, made to fit snugly into the case, and hand finished and decorated.

So yes the video is an err ‘homage’; the shape is the same, the size similar (38.2mm x 44.0mm x 10.3mm), the lugs similar (although wire lugs are hardly new to replica watches) to the Fruit Replica Watch, but it is made of white gold, and otherwise vastly different.

With its signature Moser fumé sunburst dial with leaf-shaped hour and minute hands and coming on a kudu leather strap in ‘Moser green’, the Swiss Alp is limited to 50 pieces and priced at USD 24,900.

Would I wear it? Possibly.

Tags H. Moser & Cie, Hands-on, Limited Editions, SIHH 2016, Switzerland, Watch Profile, watches

Hands-on Men Watch Montblanc Replica Swiss Replica Technical Watch

Reviewing Montblanc Star Roman Carpe Diem Special Editions

Post author By ukwatches
Post date July 3, 2016

The Montblanc Star Roman Collection is defined by its classical design and simple but reliable automatic movements. The refined and understated look is expressed by slim roundish polished stainless steel case with straight horns and distinctive step, which features the same three rings from the iconic Meisterstück fountain pen. The rounded shape of the overall design is also visible in the onion-shaped crowns with a precious resin insert depicting the Montblanc emblem.

Montblanc Star Roman Quantième Complet Carpe Diem Special Edition

The first edition is a so-called complete calendar replica watch, the Montblanc Star Roman Quantième Complet Carpe Diem Special Edition. This replica watch shows a practical display of the both the date (via a central hand pointed a track on the periphery of the dial), the day of the week and the month (both in windows at 12). The time is classically displayed on the central axis (hours, minutes and seconds) and this display is balanced by a moon phase indication at 6 – the perfect layout for a full calendar replica watch.

These Carpe Diem Special Editions feature distinctive dials with three-dimensional guilloché grain d’orge patterns in the centre of each model and red gold-plated Roman numerals. Running around the periphery of the dial, a black railway minute track is punctuated by Arabic numerals or five-minute markers. The leaf hands for the hours, minutes (and date or GMT, depending on the edition) are in plated red gold, while the second hand appears in a blue tone with Montblanc emblem at the extremity. The Montblanc Star Roman Carpe Diem Special Editions are all equipped with a self-winding mechanical movement, with 3 options available: a full calendar with moon phase, a second time zone coupled with chronograph, or a simple small seconds.

The Montblanc Star Roman Quantième Complet has a 42mm case in polished steel and is powered by the calibre MB 29.12, a self-winding movement with 42h of power reserve (visible through the caseback). It will be delivered with a black alligator strap with steel triple folding clasp. Price: 4,600 Euros.

Specifications of the Montblanc Star Roman Quantième Complet Carpe Diem Special Edition

Case: 42mm diameter – 12.17mm thickness – stainless steel – sapphire crystal on front and back – 30m water resistant
Movement: Calibre MB 29.12 – automatic – 42h power reserve – 28,800 vibrations/h – hours, minutes, second, date by hand, day of the week, month, moon phase
Strap: black alligator strap with steel triple folding clasp
Non-limited – 4,600 Euros – Reference 113691

Montblanc Star Roman Small Second Carpe Diem Special Edition

The latest version, the Montblanc Star Roman Small Second Carpe Diem Special Edition, is a simple and legible time and date replica watch. It features the hours and minutes on the central axis, a small second indication at 6 and a date, displayed classically in a window at 3 – so to say, the essence of a classical replica watch. The stainless case measures 39mm x 10.8mm – some very reasonable and elegant proportions – and the replica watch is powered by the Calibre MB 24.16, a self-winding movement with 38h of power reserve (visible through the caseback). It will be delivered with a black alligator strap with steel triple folding clasp. Price: 2,915 Euros.

Specifications of the Montblanc Star Roman Small Second Carpe Diem Special Edition

Case: 39mm diameter – 10.8mm thickness – stainless steel – sapphire crystal on front and back – 30m water resistant
Movement: Calibre MB 24.16 – automatic – 38h power reserve – 28,800 vibrations/h – hours, minutes, small second, date
Strap: black alligator strap with steel triple folding clasp
Non-limited – 2,915 Euros – Reference 113879

Montblanc Star Roman Chronograph UTC Automatic Carpe Diem Special Edition

The second edition is no less complex. Indeed, the Montblanc Star Roman Chronograph UTC Automatic Carpe Diem Special Edition combines a chronograph to an indication of a second time zone. By the mean of a hand place on the central axis, this replica watch will give you an indication of the time in another part of the globe while traveling (or it can be used as a 24h indication when home). The chronograph is classically displayed in a 6-9-12 display (note the nice guilloche detail in the sub-counter at 9, depicting the MB logo) and the date comes at 3. The steel case measures here 42mm. Behind the sapphire caseback ticks an automatic movement, with 46h power reserve. It will be delivered with a black alligator strap with steel triple folding clasp. Price: 4,500 Euros.

Specifications of the Montblanc Star Roman Chronograph UTC Automatic Carpe Diem Special Edition

Case: 42mm diameter – 14.7mm thickness – stainless steel – sapphire crystal on front and back – 30m water resistant
Movement: Calibre MB 25.03 – automatic – 46h power reserve – 28,800 vibrations/h – hours, minutes, second, chronograph, second time zone
Strap: black alligator strap with steel triple folding clasp
Non-limited – 4,500 Euros – Reference 113880

Tags Montblanc Star Roman Carpe Diem Special Editions

Calendar Watch Hands-on

A Guide to the different types of Calendar Replica Watches

Post author By ukwatches
Post date July 1, 2016

A calendar is a system of organizing days by periods of time. Its purpose is to record time and to organize agricultural, social, religious or administrative activities. The different measures of time available were originally the day, the month (lunar month) and the year marked by the cycle of seasons. However, the length of a year is extremely hard to measure precisely. A variety of calendars were invented to keep track of time, before the invention of the actual Gregorian calendar and its progressive international acceptance for most purposes.replique montre

The Julian calendar spread over the borders of the Roman Empire through its use by Christians. Still, the mean tropical year is about 365.24218 solar days. A tiny annual error of some 11 minutes cumulated over centuries which lead Thursday 4 October 1582 to be followed by Friday 15 October 1582, the first day of the Gregorian calendar. 10 days were deleted for most of Roman Catholic Europe.

The Gregorian calendar is a reform of the Julian calendar introduced by Julius Caesar in 46 BC. The approximation of 365 days ¼ for the length of the year was then known but the Roman calendar would drift out of alignment with the tropical year (the time the sun takes to return to the same position as seen from earth) because necessary intercalations of extra days to the 365-day year were erratic. Caesar’s reform intended to solve this problem with a system based on three conventional years of 365 days, followed by a leap year comprising 366 days. In 46 BC, the last “year of confusion” was extended to 445 days, to realign the calendar and the Julian calendar, and went into effect in 45 BC.

Today’s internationally accepted civil calendar replaced the Julian calendar to reflect more accurately the actual time it takes the earth to circle around the sun, with a new formula to calculate leap years. Leap years happen every four years. If the year can evenly be divided by 100, it won’t be a leap year. If it can also be divided by 400, it will a leap year (2100, 2200, 2300 won’t be leap years while 2400 will be a leap year). A subject in its own right for the replica watchmakers.

Calendar replica watches – the simple date display

The date is usually displayed with a hand or through a window, printed on a disc. The date change can be progressive with a large window showing several digits and a pointer. It can be semi-instantaneous, gradually changing around midnight or instantaneous changing at midnight with a jump, a more elegant but more complex solution requiring to accumulate power before releasing it at once.

The most elemental and common type of calendar replica watch consist in the indication of the date. A date wheel increments daily from 1 to 31. Months with less than 31 days are not taken into account and the date needs to be corrected manually, 5 times a year (February, April, June, September and November).

The widely used ETA 2892 movement and its date indication. The date indicator driving wheel (1) rotates once a day and features a finger (red arrow) that will engage with the large date wheel with its printed digits. The motion is transmitted from the hour wheel (3) through an intermediate wheel (2).

So-called “large date” replica watches show the date on 2 separate digits to be read easily. On disc shows the tens, the other the units. Different systems have been designed with overlapping or juxtaposed discs.

Movements featuring large date indication. A. Lange & Söhne Grand Lange 1 L095.4 caliber. Roger Dubuis with the RD540 caliber with flying Tourbillon.

Calendar replica watches – the Day-Date display

Sometimes called double calendars, day-date replica watches indicate beyond the date, the day of the week. The principles to indicate the day are similar to these for the date with different arithmetic, woth a wheel that turns in 7 days instead of 31.

A modern version of the Oyster Perpetual Day-Date, an emblematic Rolex initially introduced in the 1950s.

Calendar replica watches – Annual calendars

Most calendar replica watches complete 31 days cycles and require a regular adjustment (5 times a year) to ensure that the correct date is displayed. An annual calendar automatically adjust the date displayed, based on the different length of the month and requires to be corrected manually once a year (in the worst case depending on its mechanism). Such calendar replica watches take into account the months with 30 or 31 days. The only thing that is not automatically corrected is the month of February, with its 28 days.

Calendar replica watches – Triple and complete calendars

The triple calendar is a further elaboration of the day-date, also indicating the month of the year. The addition of the moon-phases display makes it a complete (or full) calendar.

The Ochs und Junior annual calendar with its unique, minimalist analog display, the brainchild of the inventive Ludwig Oeschlin. A dot travelling under the larger circle indicated the date. The smaller circles feature 7 and 12 apertures to display the day of the week and month.

Calendar replica watches – Perpetual calendars

A further sophistication, a perpetual calendar takes into account the different lengths of the months on a 4 years cycle. Its intricate mechanism has a mechanical “memory” over 1461 days. Several systems have been designed but in general a wheel rotating once every 4 years drives the calendar indications in relation with the month’s precise length. For even more practicality, perpetual calendars can come with automatic winding (eventually with a winding box when they are not worn), as they need to keep running to be relevant.

The traditional elegance of the Blancpain Villeret Perpetual calendar and the original calendar indication of the Cartier Rotonde Astrocalendaire with Tourbillon. The Cartier Rotonde features an “amphitheater” display, departing from traditional calendars. On the mechanical side, its innovative movement allows to correct the calendar by turning the crown in both direction, rather than with pushers.

These complex mechanisms are regarded as a demonstration of horological mastery and are a must-have in the collections of the great replica watch manufacturers. Brands display the information on the dial in different ways, from the typical dial lay-outs (in particular using Dubois Depraz calendar modules) to more creative options to differentiate, to enhance readability or to avoid over-cluttered looks.

The understated and smart H.Moser Endeavour Perpetual Calendar indicates the date through a window at 3 o’clock and months with a short arrow in the center. The IWC Portuguese Perpetual Calendar with its easy-read digital date-month indication.

The Greubel Forsey QP à Equation features a 24-second tourbillon and a perpetual calendar (Quantième Perpétuel in French) in line. At the back of this masterpiece, the year indication, a splendid and original equation of time indication and the breathtaking movement finish of the brand.

Calendar replica watches – Really perpetual? The secular calendar

For those who want to save the trouble of having to set their replica watch date at the end of February 2100, replica watchmakers have designed mechanisms labelled “secular perpetual calendar”. Among the available options, the Patek Philippe calibre 89 (that has broken records at auctions), the Perpetuel Secular Calendar by Svend Andersen or the Frank Muller Mega Aeternitas.

Perpetual calendars are in fact not perfectly perpetual. Their mechanism reproducing 4-year cycles is based on the Julian calendar rather than the Gregorian calendar. They are accurate for 100 years. They do not “delete” leap years 3 times in 4 centuries and hence need to be adjusted manually, which will not happen until 2100.

The Frank Muller Aeternitas Mega 4 features 36 different complications geared by 1483 parts. Its calendar mechanism is calibrated to reproduce leap years on 4 years, no leap years on 100 years, leap years on 400 years cycles. It features the indication of the year (1’000 year calendar just displayed just below the center hands).

Tags Guide to the different types of Calendar Replica Watches