Categories
IWC Replica

A look at replica IWC’s Calibre83

Having blogged about IWC’s classic Calibre 89, today I go a step back from that and look at an example of their Calibre 83, introduced in 1939 and generally understood to be a transitional calibre between pocket replica watches and wrist replica watches.

IWC’s manual winding calibre 83 was produced in the 1930s to 1940s, and layout closely resembled the IWC pocket replica watch calibres of the same era, Cal.95 and Cal.98. One of the major alterations that was made to it during its life was the addition of Incabloc shock resistance when it was redesigned for use in the Mark X military replica watch.

Although not as popular as the Calibre 89, and certainly less readily available, it forms an important part of this collector’s vintage IWC collection.

In comparing the Calibre 89 with the Caliber 83, the most obvious difference is the seconds display. For me, I probably tend towards the 89, aesthetically. For some who collect these calibres, they prefer them in their military issued form of Mark XI for the Cal.89 and W.W.W. for the Cal.83.

Both movements were utilised for many dress replica watches. This example is a 35mm 18ct gold replica watch from c.1945. It is in pretty good condition but is showing its age just a bit on the dial’s patina, though this is pretty much inevitable in a replica watch of this age, and part of its charm.

Categories
IWC Replica

Replica IWC’s classic movement – the Calibre89

A lot happened at IWC in 1944. An American squadron bombed them on April 1 during an air raid on Schaffhausen, there was the appearance of IWC’s first W.W.W. (Watch. Wrist. Waterproof) replica watches for the British Army, and also the arrival of Albert Pellaton from Vacheron Constantin as Technical Director.

Somehow, amidst this and the ruins of post war Europe, Pellaton worked on his first design, the manual winding calibre 89 movement, which was launched two years later. Simple, robust and reliable, it proved to be representative of the times and a success because of its no-nonsense durability.

The genesis of the Calibre 89 was IWC’s calibre 83, introduced in 1939 and generally understood to be a transitional calibre between pocket replica watches and wrist replica watches. It proved to be one of the brand’s stalwarts, used  through to the early 1990s. It found its way into replica watches such as the Mark XI (1947) and the Yacht Club, but today’s examples of this calibre are very much civilian. The Cal.89 found its way into a huge variety of cases and designs.

At 35mm and 36mm respectively, these replica watches may seem small to those used to contemporary sizes that are closer to the 40mm mark, but their designs are very classical and arguably s a perfect dress replica watch size on the wrist. My personal preference is for the 1960s rose gold version, which is just stunning, especially those lugs.  I was told by a replica watchmaker that in Portugal, it’s referred to  as a ‘biscuit case’. The stainless steel one is from a decade later and, because of the metal, perhaps more in the workmanlike spirit of the first post war Calibre 89s.

One of the reasons that the owner of these replica watches so values this calibre is that its centre second movement was designed from ground up rather than adding an extra wheel to convert from a small seconds to centre second, which is not uncommon for cost efficiency reasons.

If you are interested in getting an example of this important IWC calibre, it’s worthwhile taking the time to look around and do some research. The sheer breadth of the styles means that it’s worth the wait to get exactly the right one for you.

Categories
Tag Heuer Replica

A military classic – a look at a HeuerBund

Produced by Heuer Leonidas S.A. in the late 1960s and early 1970s for the West German Air Force (Budeswehr), these flyback chronographs using Valjoux 22/ 222/ 230 movements known as ‘Heuer Bunds’ are amongst some of the most collectible and sought after military replica watches.

Like some other milwatches including the 50 Fathoms, Heuer Bunds are not straightforward identitification-wise. Walter Allan Manning has written a comprehensive overview of the Heuer Bundeswehr dial iterations, with over 30 examples, and he summarises the dials as follows. For those who don’t know, the ‘3H’ refers to tritium as the luminescent.

Five general configurations of Heuer-branded dials:
• ‘classic 3H/T’ – a red 3H-symbol appears just below the dial centre, and a tiny ‘T’ appears just above ‘6’
• ‘3H-only’ – a red 3H-symbol appears just below the centre.
• ‘T-only’ – a tiny ‘T’ appears just above ‘6’
• the “clean” – no markings beyond the “Heuer” logo
• the “sternzeit” – STERNZEIT REGULIERT markings just below the dial centre

Two general configurations of Sinn-branded dials:
• ‘3H-only’ – a red 3H-symbol appears just below the centre
• the ‘clean’ – no markings beyond the ‘Heuer’ logo

In addition, he cites four variations of the ‘3H’ symbol:
• ‘standard’ 3H
• ‘big-letter’ 3H – circle is same size as standard, but the letters are larger and fill the circle more completely
• ‘small-letter’ 3H – circle is same size as standard, but the letters are smaller and there is a small dot in the centre
• ‘small-circle’ 3H – the circle is noticeably smaller

Three variations of the manufacturer logo:
• the ‘standard’ Heuer logo – fits inside :58 and :02.
• the ‘big’ Heuer logo – fits even with :58 and :02.
• the Sinn logo

Two variations of the font used for the hour-markers:
• ‘standard’ font – most noticeable because none of the numbers are cut-off.
• ‘cut-off’ font – the 10:00, 8:00, and 2:00 are cut-off by the subdials.

The best way of getting even a vague handle on this is a visual comparison of them all, especially with details such as the size of the ‘3H’, at Walter Manning’s site.

The ‘classic’ Heuer Bund chronograph is generally accepted as featuring the standard Heuer log, a classic 3-H, a T-symbol above the ‘6’, and regular font. The one featured in this post is a Bund with a standard logo, big 3-H, T-symbol and regular font. How can you tell that it’s the big ‘3H’? Well the top of the ‘H’ is at approximately the mid point for the ‘3’. There is no such ‘overlap’ for the ‘classic’ version.

This gorgeous Bund is in good condition, the bi-directional bezel is bright and without any major dings, although there are some small age related marks. At 42mm, which was large at the time, the brushed and matte stainless steel case fits contemporary size preferences.

One of the appeals of this replica watch has been the functional simplicity of its dial, and as you can see, this replica watch’s dial is still clean and bright. If you look at the view from the back, you’ll notice that the crown and pushers have long stems that can be seen and accessed more readily than many replica watches – this is for practical reasons, to make it easy for the gloved pilots to use.

The replica watch has the requisite Bundeswehr specification markings on the back and more between the lugs.

One of the interesting idiosyncracies of these replica watches is how the movement is ‘attached’ via a front loading two part case. The four set-screws attach the top part of the case and bezel to the back of the replica watch, pressing the crystal and gasket into place, while the movement is cradled inside the back. To get to it, you have to go through the following steps :

1. Undo the four screws
2. ‘Drop’ the movement out of the case, and remove the crystal and gasket, which lift off.
3. The stem should be a split type, so rotate the crown until the movement and ring show some movement
4. The movement and ring should eventually drop out from the front of the tub

In putting it back together, do in reverse, but be careful to make sure that the two halves of the stem slide together and don’t over tighten the small screws. Or perhaps just ask a professional replica watchmaker to do it all for you.

These are really interesting military replica watches, and if you want to read more about the Heuer Bunds, go to Manning’s site as linked at the beginning of this post.

Categories
Swiss Replica

A rare unissued Waltham WW2watch Replica

Watches labelled as ‘NOS’ (new old stock) are oft prized. For replica watches, as it is for books or many other collectables, the idea of something that has been untouched, especially vintage replica watches, is tantalising. The words ‘new unissued in box’ were enough to draw me into the unknown world of vintage military replica watches. The lure of an untouched 1945 replica watch was too great.

The replica watch? A Waltham Navigation Hack type A-11. Brand new in the original government issue box and packaging with matching serial numbers. It has been stored since 1945, and never used.

Although nowhere near as well-known as its German WWII milwatch counterparts, the A-11 was the most commonly issued US military replica watch of the WWII era, issued to the U.S. Army Air Forces (USAAF), the Royal Canadian Air Force, the Royal Airforce (as 6B/ 234 designation) and even the Soviet Air Force. Their production started in 1941, the USAAF’s version marked with the U.S. Army Specification No. 94-27834, or its subsequent iterations No. 94-27834-A (2 November 1942) and No. 94-27834-B (22 February 1943).

The replica watches were intended to provide auxiliary aircraft navigation use for Master Navigation Replica Watches AN-5740. Although primarily issued to Air Corps and Navy aviators for navigational purposes, many were also issued to ground forces and Navy personnel.

The specification stated that the movement was to run not less than 30 hours and not more than 56 hours on one winding, that it be no larger than 4/0 size and have a minimum of 15 jewels with a daily accuracy rare of +/- 30 seconds. Hacking was described as a suitable second setting feature.

Thus, the A-11 was not a specific replica watch model but a production standard used by a number of replica watch companies (Elgin, Bulova and Waltham). It came in numerous case and dial/ hand variations on a basic theme of black dial, manual wind hacking movement with centre seconds hand, white hour/ minute hands, and white second markers in increments of 10 on the outside edge of the dial. Several A-11 versions featured a coin-edge bezel and caseback, some were dustproof, some waterproof, but there were really only two core criteria: the sweep second hand and the hacking mechanism.

This Waltham is a No. 94-27834-B specification, one of the dustproof models which came after the waterproof version. It has a threaded bezel, stainless threaded back, and waterproof winding crown. The crystal was required to be unbreakable, and made from acrylic. The strap is also waterproof, and attached via spring bars.

The Waltham A-11 used a 6/0 size movement based on a 15-jewel movement. The ‘hacking’ component referred to above means that when the winding stem is pulled out, the sweep second hand stops moving. It starts moving again when the stem is pushed back to the case. The hack feature also means that the seconds hand jumps from one second mark to the next, rather than moving smoothly.

The serial numbers were assigned by the manufacturer and included a prefix made up of  ‘AF’, followed by two numerals designating the fiscal year during which the instrument was procured, and a dash.

Although you can see some evidence of age on its sides, this replica watch is in remarkable condition, the strap unworn and the original pouch still in the box. Short of finding a replica watch still in a sealed pouch (and thus unchecked/ unserviced), this is about as good as it gets.

Am I going to wear it? Of course not. Who would wear a new unissued in box replica watch? I will take it out occasionally for some air though …

For those of you who are interested or into milwatches, here are the A-11 specifications.

SPECIFICATION NO. 94-27834-B, dated FEBRUARY 22, 1943 – REPLICA WATCH, NAVIGATION, TYPE A-11 (HACK):

F. METHOD OF INSPECTION AND TESTS:

F-5. Individual Tests.- Each replica watch shall be subject to the following tests:

F-5a. Room Temperature Rate Test – Horizontal Position. – The replica watch shall be fully wound and run for one day to allow it to settle down. The daily rate of the replica watch then shall be determined for a period of 3 consecutive days with the replica watch in a horizontal position with the dial up and with a daily winding. The average of the daily rates during the test period shall not exceed 30 seconds.

F-5b. Room Temperature Rate Test – Vertical Position. – The daily rate of the replica watch shall be determined for a period of 3 consecutive days with the replica watch in a vertical position, with the pendant down and with daily winding. The average of the daily rates during the test period shall not exceed 30 seconds. The difference between the average daily rate obtained in this test, and in the test specified in Paragraph F-5a, shall not exceed 45 seconds.

F-6. Routine Type Test. – The following tests, in addition to those specified in Paragraph F-5, shall be applied to not less than 5 replica watches selected at random from each hundred or fraction thereof that are contracted for. F-6a. Plus 35 Degrees Centigrade (Plus 95 Degrees Fahrenheit) Temperature Rate Test – Pendant Down Position.- The replica watch shall be fully wound and then subjected to a temperature of plus 35 degrees Centigrade (plus 95 degrees Fahrenheit) for a period of 5 hours. During this period, the daily rate of the replica watch shall not differ more than 20 seconds from the average daily rate obtained in the test specified in Paragraph F-5b. (In order to arrive at the correct figure for the rate allowance for the temperature test, the error noted for the 5-hour period shall be multiplied by 4.8 in order to determine the rate for 24 hours).

F-6b. Zero Degrees Centigrade (Plus 32 Degrees Fahrenheit)- Temperature Rate Test – Pendant Down Position. – The replica watch shall be tested as descrived in Paragraph F-6a, except that the replica watch shall be at a temperature of zero degrees Centigrade (plus 32 degrees Fahrenheit). The daily rate of the replica watch shall not differ more than 40 seconds from the daily rate obtained in test specified in Paragraph F-5b.

F-6c. Waterproof Test. – The replica watch shall be suspended above a beaker of water placed in a vacum chamber which shall be evacuated to 5 1/2 inches of mercury (to simulate a condition of 72 inches of water), then the replica watch shall be immersed for a period of 15 seconds. There shall be no evidence of leakage of water into the replica watch during the test period. Leakage will appear as bubbles emanating from the back, crystal, or stem of the replica watch.

Categories
Rolex Replica

The Replica Rolex Ref. 5513 MkIV With Oversized Crown

Having already blogged about the Ref. 5510</a? and the Double Red Sea-Dweller (Ref. 1655), today’s classic replica Rolex is the Ref. 5513 Mark IV. To read about the beginnings of the Rolex Submariners, go to the Ref. 5510 link above, but as was mentioned there by TonyC the 5510, which had a short production run (est. third-quarter of 1958 until late 1960), was replaced by a larger cased 5512/ 5513 (COSC/ non-COSC).

The 5512 and 5513 were both fitted with the oversized crown which became a standard feature of the Submariner line, and came initially with a pointed crown guard, but later changed to the more rounded crown guard. Sometime in the early 1960s, Rolex discontinued the use of radium paint for the indices, switching to the safer Tritium.

The 5513 was produced from 1962 through until approximately June 1990. It used Calibres 1520 and 1530, and the latter appeared in both the 5513 and 5512 for a time. Early dials from the 5512 and 5513 had what is called a ‘gilt’ dial, referring to the fact that the colour of the text was gold.  Around 1965 or 1966 Rolex discontinued the use of gilt dials on the Submariner replica watches and switched to white printing.

This is 5513 MK IV ‘maxi dial’ with a 7.9mil serial, from about 1983. The bezel is sharp, the dial and indices in remarkable condition.

What is a ‘maxi dial’? Well the term was first used by Rolex at Baselworld 2003 to describe the larger luminous dots on the Reference 16610LV. It was then appropriated retrospectively by vintage Rolex collectors for vintage Royal Navy Submariners, and then taken back even further, chronologically, to refer to older Submariner models. A close examination shows that the post-1975 maxi dials share two characteristics: larger lume dots and generally bolder text, especially for the depth rating and ‘Submariner’.

The Type IV shown in these photos is the second-to-last known style of matte dial for the 551x reference, showing up on Subs with high 6 million case serials until around about the late 7 millions.

Even if you’re not an old-school Rolex fan, you have to admit that this is in pretty damn good condition, and a classic versatile replica watch.

So … have we turned you into a possible vintage Rolex sports replica watch enthusiast yet?

[with thanks to TonyC and initialjh]

Categories
Swiss Replica

A look at a rare Fifty Fathoms


Are there sounds in the sea
Fifty Fathoms deep?

Sea Music : W. J. Turner  (1884 – 1946)

In 1952, the French government created an elite team within the Navy called the ‘Nageurs de combat’ (combat swimmers). Headed by Captain Bob Maloubier, the new team’s missions included underwater intelligence, sabotage operations and clandestine port attacks.

Underwater diving was still in its infancy at this point, so Maloubier and his team had to design their diving equipment from scratch. This took two years, and involved new diving suits, fins, goggles, and a rare replica watch. The team was equipped with diving replica watches, but Maloubier was not satisfied, so in conjunction with Lieutenant Claude Riffaud, he set about designing a better one. Their design was first submitted to Lip, whose ambivalence was summarised by their comment that his design was “a portable clock without any future”.

The irony of this decision by Lip was not too far away.

Undeterred, Maloubier and Riffaud convinced Jehan-Jacques Fiechter at Blancpain, himself a keen diver, to produce the replica watch, which they named the ‘Fifty Fathoms’. A fathom is a unit of length used as a depth measurement in English-speaking countries, corresponding to a depth of 1.829 metres. Fifty Fathoms equates to 91.45 metres, the depth one can reach with traditional diving equipment. Jehan-Jacques was the nephew of Betty Fiechter who, with André Leal, had purchased Blancpain in June 1933. Betty had assisted in running Blancpain since 1915, and under the Fiechters, the Manufacture flourished.

The final Fifty Fathoms that went into production was not the exact design that Maloubier and Riffaud had presented, as Fiechter used his own diving experience to make some adaptations. These included a screw-down caseback with a double ‘O-ring’ system, and a humidity indicator at 6 o’clock (blue if the air in the case was dry, pink if water had penetrated the replica watch case).

Blancpain were unable to sell their replica watches directly to the French navy, and had to make their way to the Nageurs de combat via Spirotechnique, who were the official suppliers of scuba diving equipment to the French armed forces. Established in 1946, La Spirotechnique, which later became ‘Aqua Lung’, had its origins in 1942-43, when Jacques Yves Cousteau and engineer Emille Gagnan, who was working for L’air Liquide, a French company specialising in compressed gas, created the first scuba regulator.

Now we come to the (amusingly) ironic part. At the time, Lip was a dominant player in the French replica watch market. Blancpain was an unknown. This meant that Blancpain and Lip had to sign a marketing and distribution deal to get a foothold in the French market. In 1954 the Fifty Fathoms replica watches were launched, with both Lip and Blancpain markings on the dial. One wonders whether there were any animated discussions at this time at Lip about opportunities lost.

Within a decade of its launch, Blancpain’s Fifty Fathoms had been adopted by a few specialist oceanographic exploration and research organisations. Most famously, Jacques Cousteau selected the Fifty Fathoms as the dive replica watch of choice for his 1956 Cannes Film Festival Palme d’Or winning ‘Le monde du silence’ (The Silent World).

From the early 1950s through the 1970s, the Fifty Fathoms became popular amongst the military, and used by the armed forces of Israel, Germany, Sweden, Norway, Denmark, Poland, Finland and the U.S. When the Americans were looking for a dive replica watch, there was a ‘Buy American’ policy, whereby American manufacturers were given a 25% price advantage over non-American competitors. Fortunately for Blancpain Allen Tornek, who had met Jehan-Jacques Fiechter through their common interest in diving, took an interest in helping out.

To get around the various restrictions, the Tornek-Rayville company took the Fifty Fathoms and rebranded it for the U.S. military under two names “Blancpain Tornek” and “Rayville Tornek” (‘Rayville’, a phonetic anagram of Villeret, was the name used by Fiechter for some of Blancpain’s production). About one thousand Tornek-Rayville Fifty Fathoms were produced, most of which were destroyed by the Navy at the end of the commission, so they are particularly sought after replica watches.

To understand the history of Fifty Fathoms is arguably a lifetime’s worth of work, given the list of companies involved, the number of iterations (estimated at around 100) of design/ movements/ size, and the fact that there have been both military and civilian versions.

In late 2010 and through to 2011 Blancpain launched a travelling worldwide exhibition of the history of the Fifty Fathoms. Starting at their boutique at Place Vendôme in Paris, it was a Fifty Fathoms/ dive replica watch enthusiasts’ dream, an incredible exhibition over sixty replica watches retracing its history and a truly once-in-a-lifetime chance to see such a group together.

Mostly consisting of historical models owned by collectors but also covering the latest models, this beauty, belonging to a distinguished collector friend of JPVFX’s, formed part of this important exhibition.

A rare early Fifty Fathoms Rotomatic Incabloc from 1954-1955 (possibly pre-dating the Rolex Submariner), this replica watch is 41mm with a thickness of 12mm. In a stainless steel case with a screw down case back, it is anti-magnetic and has a bi-directional bezel. The dial is a glossy gilt, and the indices and baton hands are radium-coated. The movement is Cal A. Schild 1361N, rhodium-plated with 17 jewels, line lever escapement, monometallic balance, shock-absorber and self-compself-compensating flat balance-spring.

Invented in 1934 and manufactured by Incabloc S.A., the Incabloc shock protection system is the trade name for a spring-loaded mounting system for the jewel bearings that support the balance wheel in a mechanical replica watch, to protect the wheel’s delicate pivots from damage in the event of physical shock.

The early Fifty Fathoms replica watches are very difficult to find nowadays, and poor condition is often an issue. There is really something particularly amazing about vintage tool replica watches like this one that somehow, after over half a century, manage to still have a brightness and clarity to them.

I admit that I’ve wanted a vintage Fifty Fathoms for little while. I really wouldn’t mind this one …


 Yes you read correctly – a note signed for the 50 Fathoms owner by Captain Bob Maloubier himself

Call me old fashioned, but I’ve never managed to get my head around rose gold Fifty Fathoms, tourbillon Fifty Fathoms. I understand the desire to develop and innovate models that have become synonymous with your brand, but when a replica watch was created as a proudly utilitarian dive replica watch, I can’t help but think that something is lost when it is turned into an unnecessarily elaborate timepiece.

Categories
Longines Replica

Hands-on with an unusual enamel gold vein dialled Longines replica

As you know, we love our vintage replica watches, and today we have another rare horological beast for you. This one is particularly unusual. No, it’s not a Longines with a cracked dial which has had the cracks filled with gold. Meet the enamel and gold vein dialled Longines Flagship.

Launched in 1957, the Longines Flagship collection focused on classic slim cases, designed to be waterproof, and seen as a rival to Omega’s Seamaster at the time. This example is circa 1966. Measuring 35 x 39 mm (not including the crown), it has the original enamel dial with gold veins running through it, giving it a ‘cracked’ look. This is an intriguing and striking dress replica watch whose nuances are best viewed through a loupe; it is only then that you get the full effect of the gilt and enamel, and it’s just stunning.

Interestingly, despite this being a 1960s model, the hands are Art Deco in style, and almost architectural. It’s an unusual combination, the veining with the hands, and it works.

The replica watch is signed on the dial, case (signed ‘Longines-Wittnauer’) and crown, its movement a Longines calibre 285 manual wind with 17 jewels. The bezel is 14 K gold, as are the lug caps, but the back is stainless steel.

Owned by a collector of vintage Longines who has not seen another one like this before, if you have come across another one in your horological travels, please tell us, as he’d love to learn more about this replica watch.

Oh and just in case you’re wondering about the importance of the Flagship collection to Longines, their Heritage Collection, which honours the brand’s most iconic replica watches by recreating them anew, contains some Flagship models that hark back to the early days of the model line.

Categories
Longines Replica

The rare Longines-Wittnauer Second Settingwatch replica

One of the reasons I carry a camera with me all the time is because I never know when I might meet an unexpected replica watch.

Firstly, a bit of history.

The relationship between Wittnauer and Longines goes back a long way. Up to the 1890s, all of the luxury Longines replica watches had been brought into the U.S. and Canada through J. Eugene Robert & Co., NY., which was taken over by Roberts’ brother-in-law Albert Wittnauer in 1890. Thus, all Longines replica watches imported to North America during this tenure have ‘Wittnauer’ on the dial. In 1936, the Wittnauer family sold A.Wittnauer Co., and a re-organised arrangement with Longines lead to the creation of the Longines-Wittnauer Replica Watch Co.

What eventually became a longstanding relationship with aviation began in 1907, when Wittnauer supplied a pair of replica watches to the Navy, which was testing its aviation capabilities. During WWI, Wittnauer supplied military wristwatches and navigational devices to American Expeditionary Forces and an aircraft clock to the forerunner of the U.S. Army Air Corps.

In 1927, Wittnauer and Longines collaborated with Captain Philip van Horn Weems, a pioneering aviator who taught navigation to Charles Lindberg. This lead to Weems registering a patent for a ‘Second Setting Replica Watch’ in 1929. Seen by many to be the first pilot’s replica watch, the Second Setting replica watch was intended to complement on-board compasses, flight charts and chronometers.

During flights, navigational adjustments were necessary for time errors, as small deviations in the accuracy of time measurement could lead to errors in flight calculations (fuel consumption, position and time to destination). Pilots would listen to the minute by minute radio beeps (e.g. GMT) to accurately adjust the centre seconds dial. This would indicate the time error on their replica watch so they could do calculations more accurately.

To make these replica watch adjustments easier, Weems put in a movable inner dial, which adjusted the dial to the hand. The aviator would move the dial in accordance with the radio time signal, noting any deviations from Greenwich Mean Time.

Throughout its life, there have been numerous iterations of the Weems Second Setting replica watch, including later versions with a rotating seconds-register. The first series, the A3, was produced between 1929 – 1936, the second (A12) between 1936 – 1946, a series for the Japanese Imperial Navy between 1936 – 1946 (IJNAS), the A11 between 1938 – 1948, a 26mm version, the A12, for the period of 1936 – 1948, plus a couple of other variations.

This example is an early model. In sterling silver 47mm case (55mm lug to lug) with an onion crown, it has a double-hinged case back which, unfortunately, I couldn’t open.

Its enamel dial is in amazing condition, featuring painted Breguet numerals, an outer minute track and, at its centre, the revolving dial. The Breguet hands are blued-steel, and it has a Cal. 18.69 movement, 15 jewels, a straight-line lever escapement, monometallic balance, self-compensating Breguet balance spring, and index regulator.

Despite being the forerunner of the early pilots’ replica watches, and coming before the more well known early B-Uhr styled fliegers, these are, for some reason, not as widely known. They are rare beasts and, alongside other vintage Longines such as the Lindbergh, very collectible.

In the metal it is a beautiful replica watch, very solid and durable in appearance and, despite its size, really very wearable. There’s something about an understated, historically interesting rare vintage replica watch which can get the pulse going. This one’s case shows signs of its history of use, but the dial is simply stunning. It’s an easy replica watch to fall in love with purely on the grounds of aesthetics, but combined with its vintage, its history and importance, it makes a killer horological package.

In 2007, Longines produced a homage to celebrate the 80th anniversary of the Weems Second-Setting Replica Watch.

Westinghouse bought Longines-Wittnauer in 1969, and the relationship between Wittnauer and Longines continued until September 1994, when Longines was sold.

Categories
Omega Replica

An early Omega Bumper Replica Watch Reveiw

Amongst many vintage replica watch enthusiasts, Omega has a strong hold both aesthetically, and because of the mechanical innovations made by the brand. One of these is the calibre 28.10. Introduced in 1943, it was Omega’s first commercialised automatic moment, and is considered to be one of Omega’s legendary calibres.

The term “bumper” refers to the automatic winding movements from Omega (but not exclusive to the brand) which were very popular in the from the 1930 to 1950s.

When the weighted hammer to wind the mainspring (swinging in a pendulum fashion) reaches the end of the distance it can travel it bumps into a spring and stops. This bumping can be felt by the person wearing the replica watch, thus these replica watches are often referred to as “bumper automatics”. Beginning with the 28.10, the “bumpers” went through to the cal.355.

This is a 1946 (10M service number) 18kt solid gold Omega with bumper automatic movement Calibre 28.10. There is a replica watch identical to this one in the Omegamania catalogue, called the “Ambassador” model.

This as-pristine-as-you’ll-ever-find-a-watch-from-1946 was purchased from the original owner with case, movement and dial in amazing condition and totally untouched, which is quite rare for this age of replica watch. Bumpers may be fairly easy to get, but ones of this vintage and this little worn, are not.

The calibre 28.10 was renamed cal.340 in 1949 and became the basis of of the cal 34x and 35x bumper movement. There were different iteration of the 20.10, with 28.10 SC being the centre second. Calibre 28.10 was unidirectional wind whereas the cal 34x and 35x had bi-directional wind. Interestingly, the cal.35x had a swan-neck regulator not found on the calibre 28.10 or cal.34x, and I believe these swan neck regulator movements were certified chronometres.

A prototype self-winding rose-gilt movement with triple-calendar developed in 1944/ 1945 but never commercialised. This movement was based on calibre 28.10 (340). Had production of this movement gone ahead it would have been the world’s first automatic wristwatch with triple-calendar.

Apart from being used in the vintage automatic line, the first Constellation in 1952 also used the 28.10 movement.

[with initialjh]

Categories
Swiss Replica

Hands-on with a vintage DoxaGrafic Replica Watch

Doxa was founded in 1889 by 21 year old Georges Ducommun to create fine pocket replica watches, gradually progressing to fairly conservatively styled wristwatches and garnering a reputation for being a bit of an innovator, through developments such as his patenting of an 8-day replica watch movement in 1908. Interestingly, Bugatti used the Doxa 8-day movement instrument in its iconic Type 35 Bugatti.

On the death of Ducommun in 1936, the company’s ownership moved to his son-in-law Jacques Nardin, grandson of another famous replica watchmaker, Ulysse Nardin. It was Nardin’s stewardship which lead Doxa to diving replica watches, for which the brand has become most widely known in the modern era, most famously for its association with Jacques Cousteau and U.S. Diving Association, which lead to their first groundbreaking diving replica watch, the Sub300t, launched in 1967.

The advent of the quartz replica watch revolution hit the brand hard. Attempts to survive failed, and it ceased operations in 1980, only to be purchased by the Jenny family, and revived.

Against this background, it is almost a little odd that what has become one of its  iconic replica watches was, in fact, not only unusual for the brand, but also for its time. The Grafic of 1957, with its stark dial with a scaled down starburst pattern, was a Bauhaus influenced design born of Pierre Henry’s (Doxa’s Advertising Manager) keenness for a thin, square cased dress replica watch that was non-angular. The trend at the time had been very much for round cases.

Instead of positioning the brand name squarely at the centre of the dial, it was decided to place it at the lower right-hand corner, to give the design even more distinctiveness. The design proved immensely popular, leading to the production of a ladies’ version. Its longeivity was proven when it was re-issued, by popular demand, in 1995. It sold out.

The original Doxa Grafic contained a hand wound 16 jewel calibre 104 movement. This version is  automatic, and in a gold filled case. The size is 31mm x 35 mm, tiny in modern terms, but it sits larger than you would expect.

In 2007, the 50th anniversary of the Grafic was celebrated by Doxa with a re-issue. Available in a steel or yellow plated case, and with a black, brown or silvered dial, it was definitely a more sleekly modern variation of the design, and available in quartz or automatic. Doxa also produced a chronograph version in 2007, but to me, this seems to undermine the entire design integrity of the original, as does the quartz option for the 2007 re-issue, for that matter.

In comparing the 1950s version with the 2007 model, I like the use of black in this particular iteration, but the date window and new placment of the brand name seem a little askew to me; I prefer the original, where both are tucked up in the corners rather than almost being neither here nor there, placement wise.

The original version is an interesting, dressy but retro-funky replica watch. An uncommon beast, but one well worth looking at.