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Swiss Replica

BASELWORLD 2017 : Longines Flagship Heritage 60thAnniversary

Although it seems, in recent years, that the popularity of diving into the archives for new releases has markedly increased, Longines has been paying attention to their heritage for awhile.

This year has brought some very pared back models, including a special anniversary Flagship anniversary model. This new model was announced before Baselworld 2017, but consider it now formally launched.  It is important to bear in mind that Longines did release another Heritage Flagship model in 2014, about which you can read here.

The year of 1957 saw Longines launch its Flagship line of dress replica watches characterised by classic, clean, elegant simplicity. The ‘Flagship’ name was and is, a reference to the ship after which it is named.

These new anniversary models come in numbered limited editions of 60 pieces in rose gold, 60 in yellow gold, and 1,957 in steel. All case metal variants share a brushed silver two zone dial, but the (lumed) dauphine hands, indices, and Arabic numerals are yellow gold for the yellow gold cased version and rose gold for both the rose gold and stainless steel models.

Unlike back in the 1950s, the Anniversary Flagship is not a manual-wind but contains the automatic Calibre L609 (ETA 2892 base) with forty-two hours of power reserve.

The case has been naturally increased, to a nicely sized 38.5mm that is on the lower side of modern dress replica watch standards but of a size that hits a sweet spot for many people. It comes on a brown alligator strap.

The Longines Flagship’s name relates to the Fleet Admiral’s flag on his ship, and this anniversary model reflects the historical models with the presence of a stamped relief of a caravel sailing ship. This is, however, a dress replica watch, so water resistance is only 30m.

Heritage re-issues tend to be replica watches that elicit a lot of opinions from replica watch enthusiasts in general, but especially those who own the originals. Small changes are important and the addition of features such as a date window where one wasn’t previously present for modern commercial demands always leads to animated discussion.

For me, this new Flagship Heritage 60th Anniversary model is a particularly fine example of a heritage-inspired piece.

One of the most interesting things about this new model is that Longines are telling the story of its creation as being linked to brand ambassador Kate Winslet. If you go to their website you will see it, but they say that during a trip to the Manufacture, she found herself rather taken by a vintage Flagship model that she saw. This lead to a limited edition of five pieces sold to benefit her Golden Hat Foundation (of which Longines is a supporter) and now, these 60th anniversary models.

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Longines Replica

Vintage Blues : the Longines Conquest Munich1972

LonginesMunichOlympics11

It is impossible to write about anything involving the 1972 Munich Olympics without acknowledgement of the events that not only dwarfed them, but which have also proven to be the dominant enduring memory from them. What was meant to be ‘The Happy Games’ turned out to be far from what eventuated, with the deaths of eleven Israeli team members at the hands of of Black September guerillas, of whom five also died, during an 18-hour hostage standoff.

For those who associate the Olympics with Omega, there was a time when this relationship was less clear cut, with Longines challenging Omega’s dominance several times. Luxury Replica Longines were co-timekeepers of the Munich Olympics, along with German brand Junghans, although the latter seems to have faded away from popular consciousness as an Olympics replica watch brand.

The replica watch that Longines produced to celebrate the Munich games was a manual-wind monopusher chronograph that was released with a blue, navy or silver dial. The blue and vibrant orange seconds hand on this model are particularly evocative of a replica watch from the 1970s. The only Olympics reference is discreetly on the caseback.

As mentioned, this is a monopusher chronograph. Inside is the Longines Calibre 334, which is a base Valjoux 236. The 236 is derived from the Valjoux Calibre 23 column wheel chronograph, which was the successor to the Valjoux 22, a movement that was in use from 1914 to 1974.

Going by the name of the Conquest XX Munich Olympic Games (Ref. 8614 for those who are interested), this 36mm x 42mm stainless steel replica watch has a chunky 1970s aesthetic to the case and uses plexi atop. You may notice that this exemplar still has both its original box and original tags, attached – it is a rather rare new old stock model, and with the desirable red, white, and blue Olympic logo tag attached, as well as the factory sticker still on the caseback.

In this condition and with the tags all still present and attached, I suspect that this is a replica watch that most would be torn about wearing. I confess that were it mine, I would be reluctant to wear it anywhere other than at home.

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Longines Replica

HANDS-ON with Replica Longines’ AvigationA-7

I have written about some important historical Longines aviation replica watches, namely the rare replica Longines-Wittnauer Second Setting replica watch and the well-known Longines Lindbergh, and today’s offering is in the spirit of these. It is Longines’ newest addition to what I think is an increasingly strong heritage inspired range, with its ‘aviation’ and ‘navigation’portmanteau name of the Avigation Replica Watch Type A-7.

The new Avigation, available from this month, is a new single push button column wheel chronograph inspired by the brand’s rich historical relationship with the world of aviation and the world of military replica watches.

During the World War 2 era, the most commonly used replica watch used by the U.S. military was the Type A-11, about which you can read a bit more here, but there were some other Type A military replica watches, such as the A-17 and the A-7 specifications. The A-7 was produced during the late 1920s to 1930s and called the ‘Avigation’ – yes this is not a new fangled model name thought up by Longines, but a genuine nod to its history. The A-7 was a chronograph with a Gallet chrono movement and looked like an angled pocket replica watch strapped to the wrist. I have found a photo of the original design from MWRF member ‘zumann’ so you can see how Longines’ new version compares with the original.

This new model is clearly spiritually faithful to the original and at a rather large 49mm, makes its wrist presence felt. The case, at a 50° angle to the right, is stainless steel and contains the L788 Longines column wheel movement, operated by a single-button onion styled crown.

Historically, the angling of the dial was so that the replica watch could be worn on the inside of the wrist and aligned with the aircraft’s instruments. This, in addition to the size, was to ensure that they were quickly and easily read at a glance during flight missions. The design of the crowns was deliberately large so that pilots could get a grip on them when wearing gloves.

I really like the sleek deep black of the A-7’s dial. It is symmetrical and balanced, has a clean classic design, and is very eye-catching. I have a particular fondness for Breguet-style hands (these are Rhodium-plated), and am pleased to see that this has been maintained. There is also the addition of a tachymeter scale around the outer edge, a 30-minute counter, and a date window.

On the flipside, the A-7 is a hunter caseback opened via a pusher on the bottom right, with a sapphire open caseback under the cover. Given that they are using a column wheel chrono movement, the capacity to see this will please a lot of people.

Unfortunately, as this was a non-functioning prototype, I can’t tell you how the monopusher feels when functioning, but what I can tell you is that the pusher itself is very easy to use.

It’s unexpectedly comfortable, despite its size and thickness. The Avigation feels less about the 49mm (it sits like a 47mm) and more about the thickness when it is actually on your wrist. With its heft also comes a definite wrist presence; you are not likely to forget that you are wearing this replica watch. It looks like a converted pocket replica watch (including the onion styled crown), and it fairly much sits like such a conversion as well.

During its week with me, I shared it with a number of people with varying wrist sizes, to try. We were split about whether we thought it should be thinner, with half believing that as was like a pocket replica watch conversion, it seemed to suit the design.

Whether you like this style of case angling may well determine whether this replica watch is suited to you or not, but regardless of this, it is undeniably a good looking timepiece.  An angled dial is not everyone’s first choice but you quickly become accustomed to reading the time that way after only about an hour or so of wear.

Me? I like it a lot, in fact more so than I had expected to before I got the opportunity to handle one.

In the end a replica watch should be worn; that was the intention of the designers and the replica watchmakers in its creation. I had assumed that the A-7 would be too big to comfortably wear; I have looked a number of replica watches this year which have been 47mm plus. Some of them have just been ridiculously big and impossible to wear but the Avigation, unless your preference is strongly for traditional dress replica watches and the like, is very much wearable. I realise that there are historical reasons for this angled design, but should Longines come out with a model with the same dial at a smaller size/ thickness and with the angle ‘normalised’, I suspect it would be rather popular.

The Avigation comes on a black alligator leather strap and will be priced at AUD5,925 here in Australia. In the U.S. it will be USD4,900.

Many thanks to Longines (Australia) for providing the prototype review replica watch.

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Swiss Replica

A truly iconic calibre – the 13ZN Replica Longines

As mentioned in the ‘who are we?‘ post, there are many types of stylish replica watch enthusiasts. A lot of them get quite excited by movements, and a subset of these are driven to find examples of iconic or important movements. One of these movements is the 13ZN, and one of these movement geeks has shared a recent acquisition with Horologium.

The Longines caliber 13ZN is one of the most sought after chronograph movements, as its development was genuinely a milestone in modern horology. With its patent first filed in 1936, the 13ZN was the first flyback chronograph, developed for flight use. If you weren’t aware, Longines has been long associated with aviation, and I have already written about the groundbreaking Weems Second Setting Replica Watch and Longines Lindbergh.

To many minds the 13ZN remains one of the most beautiful movements ever made, largely because of its column wheel design. As well as the column wheel, the manual wind 13ZN calibre has 17 jewels, bimetallic spring detent escapement with Breguet hairspring, and BPH of 18,000.

This one dates from the late 1940s and has the original hands, dial and movement, but an aftermarket 35mm case (with great looking lugs). The dial has red and black numerals with two subsdiary dials, chapter ring with minute track, telemetre (a telemetre determines the distance of an object from the observer by measuring how long it takes sound to travel that distance) and is signed “ANTI-MAGNETIQUE”. The dial is not pristine but has the great patina of a replica watch of this age, and the dark blued hands are still looking bright.

With a scarce and highly sought after movement, it’s a shame that it has to be hidden, but with its classic aesthetics of 1940s choronos and blued the hands, it’s nonetheless a very attractive replica watch externally as well.

As this is an Olympics year, it’s worth noting that Longines provided timers used at the first modern day Olympics in 1892.

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Longines Replica

Hands-on with an unusual enamel gold vein dialled Longines replica

As you know, we love our vintage replica watches, and today we have another rare horological beast for you. This one is particularly unusual. No, it’s not a Longines with a cracked dial which has had the cracks filled with gold. Meet the enamel and gold vein dialled Longines Flagship.

Launched in 1957, the Longines Flagship collection focused on classic slim cases, designed to be waterproof, and seen as a rival to Omega’s Seamaster at the time. This example is circa 1966. Measuring 35 x 39 mm (not including the crown), it has the original enamel dial with gold veins running through it, giving it a ‘cracked’ look. This is an intriguing and striking dress replica watch whose nuances are best viewed through a loupe; it is only then that you get the full effect of the gilt and enamel, and it’s just stunning.

Interestingly, despite this being a 1960s model, the hands are Art Deco in style, and almost architectural. It’s an unusual combination, the veining with the hands, and it works.

The replica watch is signed on the dial, case (signed ‘Longines-Wittnauer’) and crown, its movement a Longines calibre 285 manual wind with 17 jewels. The bezel is 14 K gold, as are the lug caps, but the back is stainless steel.

Owned by a collector of vintage Longines who has not seen another one like this before, if you have come across another one in your horological travels, please tell us, as he’d love to learn more about this replica watch.

Oh and just in case you’re wondering about the importance of the Flagship collection to Longines, their Heritage Collection, which honours the brand’s most iconic replica watches by recreating them anew, contains some Flagship models that hark back to the early days of the model line.

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Longines Replica

The rare Longines-Wittnauer Second Settingwatch replica

One of the reasons I carry a camera with me all the time is because I never know when I might meet an unexpected replica watch.

Firstly, a bit of history.

The relationship between Wittnauer and Longines goes back a long way. Up to the 1890s, all of the luxury Longines replica watches had been brought into the U.S. and Canada through J. Eugene Robert & Co., NY., which was taken over by Roberts’ brother-in-law Albert Wittnauer in 1890. Thus, all Longines replica watches imported to North America during this tenure have ‘Wittnauer’ on the dial. In 1936, the Wittnauer family sold A.Wittnauer Co., and a re-organised arrangement with Longines lead to the creation of the Longines-Wittnauer Replica Watch Co.

What eventually became a longstanding relationship with aviation began in 1907, when Wittnauer supplied a pair of replica watches to the Navy, which was testing its aviation capabilities. During WWI, Wittnauer supplied military wristwatches and navigational devices to American Expeditionary Forces and an aircraft clock to the forerunner of the U.S. Army Air Corps.

In 1927, Wittnauer and Longines collaborated with Captain Philip van Horn Weems, a pioneering aviator who taught navigation to Charles Lindberg. This lead to Weems registering a patent for a ‘Second Setting Replica Watch’ in 1929. Seen by many to be the first pilot’s replica watch, the Second Setting replica watch was intended to complement on-board compasses, flight charts and chronometers.

During flights, navigational adjustments were necessary for time errors, as small deviations in the accuracy of time measurement could lead to errors in flight calculations (fuel consumption, position and time to destination). Pilots would listen to the minute by minute radio beeps (e.g. GMT) to accurately adjust the centre seconds dial. This would indicate the time error on their replica watch so they could do calculations more accurately.

To make these replica watch adjustments easier, Weems put in a movable inner dial, which adjusted the dial to the hand. The aviator would move the dial in accordance with the radio time signal, noting any deviations from Greenwich Mean Time.

Throughout its life, there have been numerous iterations of the Weems Second Setting replica watch, including later versions with a rotating seconds-register. The first series, the A3, was produced between 1929 – 1936, the second (A12) between 1936 – 1946, a series for the Japanese Imperial Navy between 1936 – 1946 (IJNAS), the A11 between 1938 – 1948, a 26mm version, the A12, for the period of 1936 – 1948, plus a couple of other variations.

This example is an early model. In sterling silver 47mm case (55mm lug to lug) with an onion crown, it has a double-hinged case back which, unfortunately, I couldn’t open.

Its enamel dial is in amazing condition, featuring painted Breguet numerals, an outer minute track and, at its centre, the revolving dial. The Breguet hands are blued-steel, and it has a Cal. 18.69 movement, 15 jewels, a straight-line lever escapement, monometallic balance, self-compensating Breguet balance spring, and index regulator.

Despite being the forerunner of the early pilots’ replica watches, and coming before the more well known early B-Uhr styled fliegers, these are, for some reason, not as widely known. They are rare beasts and, alongside other vintage Longines such as the Lindbergh, very collectible.

In the metal it is a beautiful replica watch, very solid and durable in appearance and, despite its size, really very wearable. There’s something about an understated, historically interesting rare vintage replica watch which can get the pulse going. This one’s case shows signs of its history of use, but the dial is simply stunning. It’s an easy replica watch to fall in love with purely on the grounds of aesthetics, but combined with its vintage, its history and importance, it makes a killer horological package.

In 2007, Longines produced a homage to celebrate the 80th anniversary of the Weems Second-Setting Replica Watch.

Westinghouse bought Longines-Wittnauer in 1969, and the relationship between Wittnauer and Longines continued until September 1994, when Longines was sold.

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Longines Replica

The Replica Longines Comet Hands On

The Longines Comet, a short-lived mystery dial from the seventies, is an unusual replica watch from Longines, featuring a broad arrow for hours and an orbiting dot for minutes. Both are on revolving discs, making them appear to move without being connected to the dial, hence the term ‘mystery dial’.

The indication ‘T Swiss Made T’ on the bottom of the dial means that the swiss replica watch contains a certain quantity of tritium that emits less than 227 MBq (7,5 mCi). This particular replica watch still has some lume appearing on the tips of the markers when the replica watch is placed close to the light of a lamp; natural light does not seem to have any effect. The dot and the arrow have a tendency to discolour to a yellow colour over time.

The replica watch is considered to be uncommon, as the design was deemed too avant-garde for tastes at the time, so comparatively few were sold. Red is the most rare colour, followed by yellow, the most common colour being blue. It was also produced in black and white, and in brown, maroon and green variations.

Size : 35mm x 40mm (42mm including crown, 38mm lug to lug)
Movement : Cal. 702 manual wind
Crystal: Original Longines plastic crystal
Case material: Stainless steel
Case thickness: 8mm
Crown: Longines signed
Caseback: Stainless screw-on. Signed.

Mine came on a 1970s Longines strap with original buckle. A brown punctured one. Suffice to say that it wasn’t really a good look, and I wasn’t comfortable with wearing it. A trip to a replica watch shop and a NATO whose colour scheme is pretty close to the dial’s.

I think it looks pretty good. I have a soft spot for mystery dials, alternative time displays and the like, and own one or two 1970s jump hours. This Comet fits within that 1970s theme for me, and it’s a fun replica watch to wear whose look has been lifted immeasurably by the strap. I’ve been enjoying this replica watch with its new strap so much that for the past few days, I have been close to buying a red variant, with the aim of having one in every colour.

Fortunately, two people have talked me out of it, though if one came up at a bargain price…