Tag: SIHH 2016

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Cartier Replica

Replica CARTIER : the road tosuccess

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So we’ve decided to have a bit of a cushion case week this week. Meet the new cushion-cased Drive de Cartier replica collection, which was launched at SIHH 2016 with three inaugural models (plus one colour variant of one).

The dials of all of them are quintessentially Cartier, with their Roman numerals, guilloché dial and blue sapphire winding crown. With these first models the new cases are available in pink gold or stainless steel, and come with black, grey or white dials.

The three models that have been launched are the entry level model utilising the Calibre 1904-PS MC with the time, small seconds and a date window, the Calibre 1904-FU MC which has a day/ night indicator, second time zone indicator, date and small seconds, and at the pointy end of the collection, a flying tourbillon with the Calibre 9452 MC.

The base model first. Inside the 40.00mm x 41.00mm case is the automatic in-house Calibre 1904-PS MC movement that was launched in 2010 and most notably, made its inaugural appearance in the highly successful Calibre de Cartier collection. With a 48-hour power reserve, this is now a solidly road tested movement and one of Cartier’s ‘backbone’ movements of today.

Secondly we have the model with he retrograde second time zone, day/ night indicator and large date. It uses the in-house Calibre 1904-FU MC, created in 2014 and launched in a Rotonde case. As I noted at the time, that the functions are all operated by a single crown will be appealing to many, and for those who prefer their cases in non-round shapes, you may find this more appealing than the Rotonde version. If you look at the link above, you will see that the large date, retrograde and small seconds are no longer ‘eating into’ the numerals – they have now done away with the half numbers. To my mind it looks a lot cleaner and better this way.

Lastly we come to the Drive de Cartier Flying Tourbillon replica watch, in which resides the manual wind Calibre 9452 MC. If you seem to recall Horologium writing about a Cartier Flying Tourbillon not so long ago you are not mistaken. It was in the form of a diamond bedecked Clé, 2015’s new case shape from Cartier. This one is obviously a bit more versatile to wear, not to mention a good deal cheaper, than that version.

I don’t yet have the Australian prices but as a general indication, USD prices are $6,250 for the stainless steel time only model, $19,300 for time only in 18K rose gold, $8,750 for the time zone model, and $89,500 for the Flying Tourbillon.

The new Cartier Drive comes with its own hashtags and a request by Cartier to “Share your drive with @Cartier on social: #DrivedeCartier #WhatsYourDrive”.

So, bearing in mind my comment from the earlier post about the positioning of that other cushion-shaped replica watch, what do you think?

The Cartier Drive collection will be available from May 2016. Keep an eye out at your local Cartier boutique/ authorised dealer or at this link for updates.

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Swiss Replica

HANDS-ON : Replica H.Moser Cie Swiss AlpWatch

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Remember this video? As a piece of low cost guerilla marketing it was inspired, with its coverage far and wide amongst tech press, many (most?) of whom didn’t really seem to get the point, or humour.

So yes the video is an err ‘homage’; the shape is the same, the size similar (38.2mm x 44.0mm x 10.3mm), the lugs similar (although wire lugs are hardly new to replica watches) to the Fruit Replica Watch, but it is made of white gold, and otherwise vastly different.

Inside is something that doesn’t have an inbuilt obsolescence – the in-house manual wind Calibre HMC 324 (18,000 VPH) with hacking seconds and four days of power reserve (a power reserve indicator is visible on the back). This is a movement that measures 32.0mm x 36.0mm x 4.80mm, made to fit snugly into the case, and hand finished and decorated.

With its signature Moser fumé sunburst dial with leaf-shaped hour and minute hands and coming on a kudu leather strap in ‘Moser green’, the Swiss Alp is limited to 50 pieces and priced at USD 24,900.

If nothing else, the dial makes it unmistakably Moser but when I held it, did I think of the Fruit Replica Watch or the Swiss Alp? Interestingly (to me), the latter. When it came out, when I posted the video, all I could think of was this replica watch as a ‘statement’, but it’s really more than that.

I found that I was not thinking that this is one brand’s playful message to the Fruit Replica Watch when I held it, when I tried it on. I was simply on what was before me. As one would expect of a well made white gold replica watch it feels solid, enduring. This isn’t a wrist piece with a very short shelf life, and as a replica watch (versus as a ‘reaction’) it does stand on its own.

Would I wear it? Possibly.

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Montblanc Replica

Replica MONTBLANC : 1858 Chronograph Tachymeter Blue LimitedEdition

Following last year’s launch of its 1858 Chronograph Tachymeter in rose gold, which itself was part of a new collection whose new pilots replica watches have been a market success, Montblanc has extended the collection with the addition of a stainless steel case version of the Chronograph with a dark blue dial, in a limited edition of 100 pieces.

The vintage looks of the collection have been one of the reasons for their popularity (another has been the entry price into the collection). The 1858 is named for the founding year of Minerva, now a part of Montblanc, and so it finds itself into the replica watch as well.

Inside is the manual-wind replica Montblanc Caliber M16.29, a pocket-watch style monopusher column-wheel chronograph, with both a large screwed balance and swan neck regulator. It is inspired by the Minerva 17.29 movement from 1929 and is hand-finished. As you can tell, if you are into replica watch photography then this will probably provide you with many hours of enjoyment. As @initialjh who photographed it likes saying, the devil is in the details – of the chronograph. The movement has 252 parts and you can see how much work has gone into it.

The historically-inspired cathedral hands, typeface and dial design are now familiar, but being a modern replica watch, the hands and numerals are coated in SuperLumiNova. It comes in a 44mm sized case (height of 13.15mm) and on a blue alligator strap to match the dial colour. The size of the case is basically down to the fact that the movement is a rather significant 38.4mm.

I liked the pilots’ replica watches when they were released last year and have not seen the rose gold version of this one to compare, but this blue and stainless steel version is a good looking replica watch and a fitting tribute both inside and out, to its 1930s inspiration. This is very much a replica watch for the chronograph fans amongst us.

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Urwerk Replica

Replica URWERK : the UR-105T-Rex

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cheap replica watches

In 2014 Urwerk introduced the manual-wind UR-105 via the Iron Knight and Dark Night, followed in 2015 by the automatic UR-105 TA (Turbine Automatic) Knight, whose movement is regulated via dual air turbines visible on its back. There were then some rather perplexing (to me) bright coloured versions in orange and yellow. I rather think that you either ‘got’ the colours or you didn’t, and not being one for yellow or orange as a general rule, I fell into the latter camp.

In 2016 Urwerk has released perhaps an equally perplexing (but in a different way and probably to a different subset of people) variant – the UR-105 T Rex. This is one of two (the other being the EMC Time Hunter) that they launched at SIHH 2016.

This new URWERK UR-105 T-Rex is based on the UR-105 TA, with major cosmetic changes. Pretty much as ‘major’ as is possible. Rather than steel, titanium, gold or PVD, it’s scaled up to full reptile mode and gone bronze.

This bronze bezel is decorated, bead-blasted, micro-blasted, oxidised with a brush. Yes the patina on it has been quite specifically created, although of course if you end up being one of the 22 owners of this piece, the patina’s development will be entirely up to you.

For the T-Rex the bezel covers most of the top of the case, with only the 60-minute track and the lower part of the trademark satellites, visible. It has been meticulously engraved with a pattern intended to mimic that of a T-Rex of course. The rest of the case remains black PVD-coated titanium.

Inside is the same automatic Calibre 5.02 UR as used in the TA model, with a 48-hour power reserve. The time display features four satellites each showing three hour intervals, driven by a carousel rotating device and running over a 60-minute track. The satellite hours are bronze beryllium Geneva crosses and the carrousel and three mainplates in brass. Markers, dials, indexes and satellites all have Super-LumiNova.

On the case back we find Urwerk’s usual ‘interactive’ component to their cheap replica watches – turbines that allow regulation of the winding of the replica watch (with three positions: ‘FULL’, ‘REDUCED’ and ‘STOP’).

Having seen the replica watch in the press release before I handled it I have to say that it is better in the metal. I wasn’t sure how I felt about it when I saw the initial photos, but ended up being rather taken with it, especially in terms of how tactile it is. There’s something quite engaging about it ‘in the metal’. Nonetheless, this is clearly a replica watch that will generate quite polarised views. However, if we take it as the latest addition in the ‘bronze age’ of replica watches, it’s definitely one of the (if not ‘the’) more interesting manifestations.

Although a rather large 39.50mm x 53mm x 16.800mm on its black alligator strap with PVD titanium buckle, it sits surprisingly easily on the wrist, as you can see above (@initialjh’s wrist errs a little on the smaller side). The price is 65,000 CHF before taxes.

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Van Cleef & Arpels Replica

VAN CLEEF ARPELS : Lady Arpels Ronde desPapillons Replica Watch

First things first – for those who are in Australia Van Cleef & Arpels are coming very soon, with their first opening in Melbourne. So if you’ve ever been curious but not had the opportunity to look at the replica watches and jewellery, you won’t have as far to travel now. With what appears to be a rather large number of replica watch brand boutiques that are slated to open in 2016, it is a nice vote of encouragement for the local replica watch market.

One of Van Cleef’s major new releases this year is the Ronde des Papillons, the latest in the line of mechanically complicated and quintessentially Van Cleef & Arpels-styled ‘feminine’ Poetic Complication replica watches. In this instance, the time telling, something which Van Cleef & Arpels excels at playing around with for their women’s replica watches, is done via three butterflies as indicators.

Now I’m the first to say that butterflies (real or imagined) are nice enough but not really necessarily something I would choose to have on a replica watch, but stop and look beyond them, as it is not just about the butterflies but it is also very much about what is behind them, what is driving them. To those who want to dismiss this replica watch out of hand because because they see butterflies and clouds and want to tune out, don’t. Don’t jump to conclusions, and take some time to really examine this interesting new replica watch.

The replica watch features an unusual retrograde display, with mechanical animation on activation. The hours are indicated by a swallow that acts as a retrograde indicator, starting at ‘0’ and ending at ’12’ before jumping back to the beginning. More unusual is the minutes display, where the ‘hands’ are three differently coloured (pink, yellow, red) butterflies ‘flying’ at different paces thanks to an elliptical gear.

The swallow is always visible, moving across the display. The butterfly displaying the correct minute travels as time passes. Pressing the button at 8 o’clock will activate all the butterflies, all of which will fly through the clouds and, after ten seconds, return to their original (time indicator) position.

The dial has four fan-form dials. Clockwise from 12 o’clock : one for 30-45 minutes, one for 46-60 minutes, one for 0-12 hours, and a fourth for 0-30 minutes.

The base of the multi-layered dial is made of mother-of-pearl that has been painted a pale blue to represent the sky, with white gold discs with mother-of-pearl inlay clouds. The applied numerals are also white gold, as are the swallow and butterflies, which are hand engraved and painted.

Inside the 38mm white gold case is an automatic movement developed for Van Cleef & Arpels, but that’s all I know. However, given their strong ties with Agenhor, with whom they have worked closely, it is not inconceivable that could be them again.

As I said at the outset this replica watch, and in fact this is the case for the Poetic Complications in general, has its own whimsy and beauty of design which is combined with some serious replica watchmaking. If there is one replica watch/ jewellery brand that really seems to consistently go out of its way to do something really worth recognising in combining jewellery and some unexpected realisations of replica watchmaking into a themed replica watch, it’s Van Cleef & Arpels, so welcome to Australia.

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Panerai Replica

SIHH 2016 : Replica Panerai goes ‘tropical’ with the PAM662 Radiomir 1940 3 Days Acciaio PAM663 Luminor 1950 3 DaysAcciaio

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At SIHH 2016 Panerai revisited its past with a number of new models in a variety of cases and dial colours and functions. Of these my personal favourites were, perhaps of some surprise to me, these two. I’ll explain why a little later.

The new Radiomir 1940 3 Days (PAM662) is a re-creation of the Egiziano Piccolo (‘small Egiziano’) Ref.6154 that was originally made in very small quantities of some 30-40 exemplars, but what makes it distinctive is that Officine Panerai have chosen to update it with what many replica watch people informally call a ‘tropical’ dial, but which I prefer to simply call ‘faded’. It is basically meant to be the colour of a dial showing the patina of age.

The Ref. 6154 on which it is based had its genesis in a 1954 training exercise. The Egyptians had sent members of their military to La Spezia for training and found themselves amazed by the equipment used by the Italian Navy (Marina Militaire), particularly the luminosity. So much so that they placed an order from Panerai for compasses, depth gauges, and elegant replica watches; it is estimated that 30-40 were ordered of each.

Containing a Rolex Cal. 618 movement, the original 47mm Egiziano Piccolo has a Rolex case with new specifications that had never been seen prior, its sleek curves granting it descriptions comparing it with sports cars. The Egyptians had insisted on a Radiomir dial despite it not longer being in production, and the radium part of the Radiomir has meant that with time, variants in humidity, sunlight, temperature etc, each of these rare beasts has developed its own distinctive marking and patina.

Naturally, these modern versions are lumed with Super-LumiNova, so these will not all develop their own look, but as the original is a scarce beast (see above photo for comparison), this is not a bad modern compromise in terms of looks for those (most) who will never be able to have the original.

For both of these tribute models, the ‘vintage’ inspiration extends to the crystal, which is plexi. They both comes with a spare plexi crystal.

To ‘match’ this Radiomir 1940 Panerai have simultaneously released the PAM663 Luminor 1950 3 Days Acciaio, which shares the same ‘tropical’ dial and 47mm size. In this model, the brown dial appears in a 47mm Luminor 1950 case.

Both the PAM662 and PAM663 contain the hand-wound Calibre P.3000 which is realised with brush-finished bridges and as the name of the replica watches indicate, has a power reserve of three days. From a practical point of view, you may note that it allows for the hour hand to be set independently.

They come on brown Ponte Vecchio strap with ecru-coloured stitching and an engravd OP logo.

Now – back to what I mentioned at the outset. I am not one of those who gets excited about ‘tropical’ dials as certain brands/ collectors/ enthusiasts like to call their faded vintage dials. They’re just faded brown dials to me, of varying levels of patina-d attractiveness, and I do find it somewhat bemusing that how faded or the way in which a dial is faded can result in a premium at auction.

Panerai is not the first brand, nor will it be the last by any stretch of the imagination, to try a modern ‘recreation’ of a colours that result from the natural process of ageing. Bearing in mind my bemusement about such dials in general, I was surprised to find myself quite drawn to how Panerai have coloured these dials. They do not look too ‘shiny and new’, as is often the danger when doing such things, and regardless of the inspiration of the colour, the tone of it has turned out really quite well. These are appealing pieces, but if I was to choose one of the two, and in fact if I were to pick one replica watch from Panerai’s SIHH 2016 releases, it would be the PAM662.

The PAM662 is priced at 9,500 EUR and the PAM663 at 9,900 EUR.

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Baume & Mercier Replica

SIHH 2016 : Replica Baume Mercier Clifton Chronograph CompleteCalendar

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In recent years Baume & Mercier’s Clifton range has entrenched its position as ‘the’ collection for those wishing to enter the world of luxury replica watches via Baume. They are classic replica timepieces which contain solid movements, and are versatile. Now, Baume have added another complication to the range – meet the Clifton Chronograph Complete Calendar. This is not the first Clifton featuring a calendar feature; for example there was the Retrograde Date and Big Date, but is a new combination.

So let’s look at the dial, which is, in keeping with the brand and this collection, classically laid out. The layout will also hint at the inside, for those famliiar with such things.

Baume & Mercier have decided to emphasie legibility at a glance by using different coloured hands for different indications. The time is as per convention, with the two hands on the central axis, and a small seconds sub dial at 9 o’clock with rhodiumed hands. There is also a day/ night indicator at 9 o’clock and a 24 hour scale with a gilt hand. The hand with the arrow-tipped point on the central axis points to the date, there are two windows at 12 o’clock with the day of the week and month, and a moonphase at 6 o’clock.

Now for the chronograph function, which is indicated by the blued hands with its seconds noted by a long blued hand. The 30-minute counter is at 12 o’clock and the 12-hour counter is at 6 o’clock circling the moon.

The rest of the dial is faithful to the Clifton replica watches, with silvery white main-plate and metallic applied indices.

Inside the usual Clifton 43mm case is the automatic Valjoux 7751 (what I mentioned at the outset about the dial layout hinting at the movement, for those who are interested or know such things) finished with an engraved rotor, adorned with Geneva stripes, blue screws and perlage on the mainplate and bridges.

Coming on a alligator straps, these are replica watches that aren’t about pretending to be anything other than what they are – replica watches to be used for functionality and not fashion, and for longevity. For those wanting to enter the world of luxury replica watches and want something with more than one useful function on it, this is another classic offering from Baume & Mercier.

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Piaget Replica

SIHH 2016 : Replica Piaget Emperador Coussin XL700P

Piaget Replica Watch

In a rather unexpected segue from their normally mechanical men’s novelties, at SIHH 2016 Piaget has launched a luxury replica watch to commemorate the 40th anniversary of its first in-house quartz movement, the ultra-thin 7P calibre, called the Emperador Coussin XL 700P.

However this is not, as more commonly seen in their women’s pieces, just any old quartz replica watch. It is probably best described as being akin to what Seiko does with the hybrid mechanical-quartz Spring Drive. Piaget have called it a generator-regulated mechanical movement. Its roots hark back to 1976 and the in-house 7P quartz movement, but this new movement is a very different proposition; an ultra-thin example of their first use of such a hybrid. Patents have been filed (and for those interested, it is probably worth comparing these patents with those of Seiko’s) and it is the result of two years of research and development. Unlike what Seiko is prone to doing, however, there is no seconds hand in this piece.

The new automatic hybrid movement has a 32’768 Hz frequency controls the rotation of the generator and wheels train. The generator produces a charge, sufficient to power the electronics, which then controls the rate at which the gear train runs. It has 32 jewels and a power reserve of forty-two hours. The movement is black-coated, as mentioned ultra-thin (5.5mm), and is finished with circular Côtes de Genève, circular-grained mainplate, bevelled bridges, engraved rotor with the Piaget coat-of-arms, and silvered screws. Generator and micro-rotor underlined with polished white gold.

The case itself is also white gold, and is 46.5mm with a black DLC bezel. The skeletonised dial is attractive and has many of the design cues familiar to Emperadors, along with silvered indices and hands. It comes on a black alligator strap with a matching 18 carat white gold folding clasp.

When I first read about this replica watch last month at its pre-SIHH 2016 announcement I wasn’t quite sure that I ‘got’ it in the sense of ‘why’. Design-wise in terms of aesthetics it’s attractive, although some might say the disc on the front is superfluous decoratively-speaking. It does, however, give an aesthetic nod to its mechanical older siblings.

That they’ve put this much effort into this replica watch, both in terms of its R&D and the profile it has assumed in terms of being a new launch, is one of the most interesting things about its existence. Surely this cannot be a one-off use, so what does this mean for potential new models?

In the meantime, this one comes in a limited edition of 118 pieces and comes on a black alligator strap with an 18 carat white gold folding clasp.