Tag: SIHH 2014

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IWC Replica

HANDS-ON :Replica IWC’s Deep Three divewatch

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Horologium was recently invited by IWC to attend the Australian launch of this year’s Aquatimer collection, whose worldwide launch was at SIHH 2014 in January. As I am covering the event for another publication, I’ll not be covering it on the blog, although you will find some photos from the day on the Horologium instagram account.

The first part of the Sydney launch was a ‘scuba diving experience’, during which participants were given an Aquatimer to wear. I ended up with an Aquatimer Automatic, but today’s post is about the replica watch that I’d fantasised about the possibility of wearing for the occasion but which, due to its rather limited production status, unfortunately was not available for us to even play with as a desk diver– the Deep Three.

The Deep Three is, as the name indicates, the third of series of mechanical depth gauge diver’s replica watches. The first was the GST Deep One (1999) and the second, the Aquatimer Deep Two (2009). Like the internal/ external ‘Safe Dive’ bezel system in the Aquatimer collection, the depth gauge on the Deep Three is the latest chapter of IWC’s dive replica watch development. During a dive, the blue depth indicator moves to show current dive depth, whilst the red  indicator remains at the maximum depth attained, down to a maximum of 50 meters.

The Deep Three’s case is made of titanium, measuring 46mm x 16.5mm. Apart from the depth gauge, the basic features of the Deep Three are a date display, hacking seconds, two-tone SuperLuminova luminescent hands (depth, dive time, minute and seconds displays in green, hour hand and indices are blue), screw-in crown, the SafeDive system of course, engraved caseback, and IWC’s quick-change strap system. Inside is the automatic IWC calibre 30120 with a forty-two hour power reserve.

The pressure metering system of the depth gauge is housed in a pressure converter/ crown case at 9 o’clock. There are micro holes in the convertor’s cover, so that when water pressure acts on the membrane it pushes a pin towards the interior of the case. This moves the gauge’s two indicators – as mentioned, the blue depth indicator moves to show current dive depth, the red maximum depth indicator remains at the maximum depth attained during the course of the dive.

The reset button for the maximum depth indicator is at 2 o’clock. The titanium cover at 4 o’clock conceals the sliding clutch mechanism for the new rotating bezel system. The internal rotating bezel, which engages in precise one-minute intervals, can only be moved anticlockwise.

Oh and of course we must not forget the water resistance – 10 bar.

Thanks to its titanium case, the 46mm Aquatimer Deep Three feels far less bulky than its size would indicate, and it feels like somewhere between a 44-46mm on the wrist.

It was the centre of IWC attention in Geneva, and it’s obvious why. It’s a funky, legible and practical piece of high-end dive replica watchmaking.

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Jaeger-LeCoultre Replica

HANDS-ON :Replica Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Master Compressor ChronographCeramic

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With the plethora of dress replica watches announced by Jaeger-LeCoultre at SIHH 2014, a new limited edition sports replica watch was almost missed by some, but for  fans of all-black ceramic pieces, and of chronographs, there was something of interest.

The new Master Compresor Chronograph Ceramic is not just a chronograph but also a dual-time display, in a large 46mm ceramic case that sits comfortably like a 44mm replica watch on the wrist.

It features Jaeger’s patented compression key which is part of the Master Compressor range; what this means is that a half-turn of the key over-compresses one of the crown’s four toric gaskets and locks it securely into position, preventing any moisture or water from accidentally entering and damaging the replica watch.

Functionally, this new ceramic piece has a column-wheel chronograph, GMT with day/ night indicator (below the ‘Jaeger-LeCoultre’ text), and the date in a window between 4 and 5 o’clock.

The hours and minute hands are lumed for visibility, but the GMT hand, not.

There is a classic dual register design to the chronograph component, with a 30-clock minute counter at 3 o’clock and 12-hour counter at 9 o’clock respectively. The third sub-dial is that of a small seconds, at 6 o’clock.

An ever popular red central seconds hand is there to off-set the all-black of the replica watch

As mentioned at the outset, this replica watch feels and sits smaller on the wrist than many 46mm sized replica watches. It comes on a Trieste calfskin strap which has a satin-brushed steel pin buckle. For those who are fans of this type of replica watch but scared of the size, don’t be. The strap is comfortable and it sits well on the wrist.

Inside is the automatic JLC Calibre 757 with 65 hour power reserved, but it is not visible, due to a closed case back. As this is a column-wheel chronograph, the inability to see it may disappoint the movement fans.

How limited is this new model? Well if you want one, there are 500 up for grabs. Australian RRP is $16,900.

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Cartier Replica

Swiss Replica CARTIER : Birds of aFeather Watch

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Having mused about starting with a series of avian pun for this post, I have decided to restrain myself and let today’s two new Cartier Metier d’Art pieces speak for themselves. There is certainly a lot to crow about here.

This first piece from unique replica Cartier is the Floral Marquetry Parrot. In one of their most popular lines and case types, the Ballon Bleu, it is a 42mm 18k rhodium-plated white gold case with 124 brilliant-cut diamonds with a total of 1.80 carats. However, it is the dial that is our focus today.

With rhodium-plated 18 carat white gold and 18 carat pink gold used in the dial’s base and sectioning, this new replica watch utilises the technique of marquetry, more commonly seen in wood (including on replica watches) but here, using rose petals that have been preserved, dyed, and affixed to a thin sliver of wood to assist in cutting of the desired shape before being layered together as plumage to create this macaw.

The skills are really quite extraordinary. Without being told that they are rose petals, one might never guess. The dyeing of the vivid blue, green and yellow is incredibly lifelike. In terms of non-floral elements, the bird’s eye is emerald and the beak, onyx, and the black and off-white feathers surrounding the eye are actually painted onto the dial.

This glorious parrot comes on a white semi-matte alligator strap with a folding clasp in rhodium-plated 18k white gold, and set with forty-three diamonds. Inside is the automatic Calibre 049.

‘In the metal’, this is a very impressive and attention-grabbing piece. The diamonds on the bezel are almost easily forgotten, the eye is drawn to how realistic the plumage is, how vividly alive the bird is on your wrist. Of course, this being part of the Metiers d’Art line, it is a very exclusive piece, limited to 20 numbered pieces.

The second bird to be featured today is a Toucan. Also in an 18k white gold case with 60 brilliant-cut diamonds (total of 1.56 carats), this replica watch features enamelling work and mother-of-pearl to create three different levels of bird and surroundings. The enamelling is done by the craftsman/ woman assembling a gold framework/ sectioning, and then adding three layers of enamel plates of differing thickness. Thus when the light plays on these three superimposed plates, depending on the angle at which you look at the dial, the Toucan seems less of a two-dimensional creature. This is a more whimsical piece than the previous one, the Toucan almost looks slightly perturbed.

To match the blues of the dial, the hands are in blued steel. Inside is the manual wind Calibre 430 MC.

As is the case with the Metiers d’Art Parrot, this comes ln a semi-matte semi-matte white alligator strap with an adjustable 18k rhodium-plated white gold folding buckle set with 43 brilliant-cut diamonds (0.42 carats), and is in a limited edition of ten pieces.

When it comes to Cartier’s new releases, a lot of the focus is on their pieces with broad appeal, or some of their haute horlogerie pieces, it is often too easy to forget to look out for what interesting things they have decided to do artistically with their dials using their in-house artisans. They have a fondness for depicting birds and beasts, and this is one of their strengths, so come next year, keep an eye out.

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Baume & Mercier Replica

SIHH 2014 : BAUME MERCIER Clifton RetrogradeDate

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The emphasis throughout the luxury replica Baume & Mercier presentation at SIHH 2014 was on ‘affordable luxury’, with ‘quality’ and ‘price’ being keywords. With this in mind, amongst the new additions to the Clifton line announced by Baume et Mercier at SIHH 2014 was this, the Clifton Retrograde Date.

In a 43mm stainless steel case (12.05mm thick) and with the Clifton sapphire case back revealing an automatic Soprod 9094 calibre, this is probably, aesthetically speaking, my favourite Clifton to date, as I have a particular liking for retrogrades. In this instance, it is a retrograde date function – for those who don’t know what it is, the blue hand advances each day until the end of the month, whereupon it will snap back to the beginning, to start the new month.

As well as time and the retrograde date, this new model also has a power reserve indicator on the dial. The dial itself is satin-finished silver, with the numerals, indices and hands gilt. It comes on a brown alligator strap.

The price may vary between markets, but the Swiss price is 4,800 CHF. As mentioned at the outset, Baume et Mercier are keen to emphasise that they are ‘affordable luxury’, and with the notable exception of the tourbillion, about which I blogged here, they have been sticking to this.

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Baume & Mercier Replica

SIHH 2014 : Replica Baume & Mercier 1892 Clifton FlyingTourbillon

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In October last year we we one of the first to announce famous replica Baume & Mercier’s new Clifton Flying Tourbillon, about which you can read more in my 2013 post here.

SIHH 2014 brought, along with a formal launch of this piece and the chance to get some live photos for Horologium readers, a display of modern Baume et Mercier replica watches alongside their historical counterparts, including the 1892 Clifton Flying Tourbillon.

As mentioned previously, this replica watch will be limited to thirty pieces and will retail in Australia for AUD65,000.

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Jaeger-LeCoultre Replica

SIHH 2014 : Replica Jaeger-LeCoultre Grand Reverso Ultra Thin 1931Chocolate

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My first SIHH 2014 post is about this replica watch. Why have I chosen this one to be the first? Well because it’s not only the one that I was asked about the most pre-SIHH and at the beginning, but also because I know owners of other 1931 Ultra Thin iterations and naturally, they are curious.

If you are reading this post then the chances are that you know about classic replica Jaeger-LeCoultre’s 180th anniversary last year, and you will know about other colours such as the Reverso Rouge. You will also know that this updated version of the original Reverso is a pretty faithful one, including the colour choice, but for its more modern dimensions.

The chocolate Grande Reverso (Ref. 2782560) has an 18 carat rose gold case measuring 46.8mm x 27.4mm x 7.3mm with a solid caseback that, of course, you can ask to be engraved. It has the manual wind JLC Calibre 822/2 with a power reserve of 45 hours and with 21,600 VPH.

The chocolate brown dial is offset by baton-style gold plated hands, and the dial’s colour is matched to a Casa Fagliano strap that you can see in the photos. So what about the brown? It is a deep brown but not overly so, one of those occasions where saying that something is ‘chocolate brown’ actually means that it looks like chocolate brown. The strap’s colour is a spot-on match for the dial, and its stitching and design give it a more sporty look than its predecessors, as well as being a discreet nod to Casa Fagliano’s boot and polo heritage.

If you are familiar with the Grande Reverso 1931 then the colour will be what you are interested in, as you will already have an idea of size. I can tell you that it is dressy model, but not too much so – it can be dressed up and equally, suits (as shown by one person who was trying it on) a smart casual look, including with a dark blue jacket.

For those who have not handled these models they are, as the name indicates, ‘ultra thin’. They sit snugly and closely to the wrist, and even though the measurements may sound long, the replica watch’s thinness makes it seem smaller, and it sat well even on someone’s 6.5in wrist.

In summary, if you’re a fan of these 1931s then you are probably going to like this one. It’s an elegant and eminently wearable piece, with versatility. If you are one of those enthusiasts who like the brown dial-rose gold combination, then you have another option to consider.