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Calendar Watch Hands-on Men Watch Swiss Replica Vacheron Constantin Replica

VACHERON CONSTANTIN Presents Two new Patrimony Traditionelle WorldTime

When Vacheron Constantin introduced its Patrimony Traditionnelle World Time it was the first mechanical replica watch that showed the time in 37 time zones (most world timer replica watches feature 24 time zones),  along with a day/ night indication courtesy of the shading on the map. Moreover, it was also notable on its release for the fact that there is only one crown for making all adjustments.

You may recollect an earlier post about one of Vacheron’s most well-known contemporary pieces, the 37 time zone Traditionelle World Time, in pink gold. A couple of months ago they brought out another 18K 5N pink gold version but this time with a pink gold dial, plus an 18K white gold version.

A quick recap of the dial and functionality.

The display consists of three dials: a sapphire dial with the rotating day/night indication shading (18:00-06:00 being the darkened area), a metal dial with a Lambert projection map, and a metal chapter ring. To use it, you choose the reference point and put it at the black triangle at 6 o’clock. The time at the reference point can then be read either via the traditional hour or by the 24-hour disc, and the other time zones via the disc. The cities in black text are the full time zones, whilst the cities in red text are half or quarter-hour zones. It is all operated/ adjusted via a single crown.

 

The main novelty of this new edition of the Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle World Time is its dial and the map. Previously painted in blue and white as per the link in the first paragraph, the map is now made of solid gold, 3D-engraved, and with raised continents with a sun-brushed finish and sand-blasted seas. A geometric pattern on the top helps to locate the 24 main time-zones. The inked 24-hour ring has also been redesigned, with a darkened area from 18:30 to 06:30.

The rest is the same. Inside is Vacheron Constantin’s in-house designed/ developed/ manufactured Calibre 2460WT automatic movement with a gold oscillating weight, 28,800 VPH and a forty-hour power reserve. The movement itself is a rather significant 36.60mm, which means that the replica watch case is 42.5mm.

Johann Heinrich Lambert was a German/French mathematician and scientist who in 1772 released his Conformal Conic (LCC) projection in his publication ‘Anmerkungen und Zusätze zur Entwerfung der Land- und Himmelscharten’. Today the Lambert Conformal Conic projection has become a standard projection for mapping large areas (small scale) in the mid-latitudes – such as USA, Europe and Australia.

What the LCC does is to set a cone over the Earth’s sphere and project the surface onto the cone, which is then ‘unrolled’ and scaled, with scale decreasing between the two parallels and increasing outside them.

As mentioned at the outset, as well as this model Vacheron Constantin also released a new 18k white gold version at the fair, with a white gold dial.

Again, the basic specifications are the same with this new model, the differences lie in the metal and the dial.

Changes in colours (and textures) can completely change the look of a replica watch, and much of the replica watch world is about providing choices that are variations along a basic theme. These new dials have their appeal (especially the pink gold version, which is rather elegant) but for me, the original pips these at the post. I have suspicions that this may be because of an unconscious perhaps rather conservative predilection towards blue for projection maps on replica watch dials.

 

For more information on both, click here, and now it’s time for all of these time zones to make their way into 2016 one by one.

See you on the flipside.

[Horologium attended Replica Watches & Wonders 2015 by invitation of Richemont Australia]

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Vacheron Constantin Replica

Replica VACHERON CONSTANTIN : Two new Patrimony Traditionelle WorldTime

You may recollect an earlier post about one of Vacheron’s most well-known contemporary pieces, the 37 time zone Traditionelle World Time, in pink gold. A couple of months ago they brought out another 18K 5N pink gold version but this time with a pink gold dial, plus an 18K white gold version.

A quick recap of the dial and functionality.

When Vacheron Constantin introduced its Patrimony Traditionnelle World Time it was the first mechanical replica watch that showed the time in 37 time zones (most world timer replica watches feature 24 time zones),  along with a day/ night indication courtesy of the shading on the map. Moreover, it was also notable on its release for the fact that there is only one crown for making all adjustments.

The display consists of three dials: a sapphire dial with the rotating day/night indication shading (18:00-06:00 being the darkened area), a metal dial with a Lambert projection map, and a metal chapter ring. To use it, you choose the reference point and put it at the black triangle at 6 o’clock. The time at the reference point can then be read either via the traditional hour or by the 24-hour disc, and the other time zones via the disc. The cities in black text are the full time zones, whilst the cities in red text are half or quarter-hour zones. It is all operated/ adjusted via a single crown.

Johann Heinrich Lambert was a German/French mathematician and scientist who in 1772 released his Conformal Conic (LCC) projection in his publication ‘Anmerkungen und Zusätze zur Entwerfung der Land- und Himmelscharten’. Today the Lambert Conformal Conic projection has become a standard projection for mapping large areas (small scale) in the mid-latitudes – such as USA, Europe and Australia.

What the LCC does is to set a cone over the Earth’s sphere and project the surface onto the cone, which is then ‘unrolled’ and scaled, with scale decreasing between the two parallels and increasing outside them.

The main novelty of this new edition of the Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle World Time is its dial and the map. Previously painted in blue and white as per the link in the first paragraph, the map is now made of solid gold, 3D-engraved, and with raised continents with a sun-brushed finish and sand-blasted seas. A geometric pattern on the top helps to locate the 24 main time-zones. The inked 24-hour ring has also been redesigned, with a darkened area from 18:30 to 06:30.

The rest is the same. Inside is Vacheron Constantin’s in-house designed/ developed/ manufactured Calibre 2460WT automatic movement with a gold oscillating weight, 28,800 VPH and a forty-hour power reserve. The movement itself is a rather significant 36.60mm, which means that the replica watch case is 42.5mm.

As mentioned at the outset, as well as this model Vacheron Constantin also released a new 18k white gold version at the fair, with a white gold dial.

Again, the basic specifications are the same with this new model, the differences lie in the metal and the dial.

Changes in colours (and textures) can completely change the look of a replica watch, and much of the replica watch world is about providing choices that are variations along a basic theme. These new dials have their appeal (especially the pink gold version, which is rather elegant) but for me, the original pips these at the post. I have suspicions that this may be because of an unconscious perhaps rather conservative predilection towards blue for projection maps on replica watch dials.

For more information on both, click here, and now it’s time for all of these time zones to make their way into 2016 one by one.

See you on the flipside.

[Horologium attended Replica Watches & Wonders 2015 by invitation of Richemont Australia]

Categories
Montblanc Replica

Replica Montblanc Heritage Spirit OrbisTerrarum Hands On

So far this year we have had a look at a couple of dressy worldtimer replica watches such as the Jaeger-LeCoultre Geophysic UT and one from Frederique Constant so we thought we’d add another one into the mix for your consideration at this time when many of you will be travelling for the holiday period.

From Montblanc comes the Orbis Terrarum, launched earlier this year as one of a variety of travel-themed (whether in terms of your travel or those of Vasco Da Gama) pieces that have been released this year. Part of the Meisterstück Heritage Collection (yes as in Meisterstück pens), this world-timer follows some popular design cues on the dial which will make it familiar to many, especially those familiar with Vacheron Constantin to cite one example.

The dial is a planisphere of Earth as viewed from the North Pole. Twenty-four cities are listed on a disc indicating both twenty-four time zones and day/ night (white/ black). For those unfamiliar with world-timers the hour and minute hands are for your local time. When you travel, just adjust the centre hour and minute hands to your new ‘local time’. Your home time remains at 6 o’clock on the twenty-four city disc (the small red arrow). The disc with the twenty-four cities can be rotated independently via the pusher at 8 o’clock in one-hour increments.

The case is 41mm in diametre, 12mm thick, and comes in either 18k red gold or stainless steel. Inside is the Sellita-based Calibre MB29.20 with a forty-two hour power reserve.

With Montblanc going through a renaissance under the stewardship of Jérôme Lambert, the new Orbis Terrarum has been another bold move into positioning Montblanc at very attractive price points across a range of men’s and women’s replica watches, particularly when it comes to complications.

The RRP for the Orbis Terrarum is 4,990 EUR for the stainless steel model on a leather strap, 5,260 EUR for the same on a bracelet, and 13,900 EUR for the red gold model on a leather strap.

For some other worldtimers we’ve looked at this year, click on this link.

[Horologium attended Replica Watches & Wonders 2015 by invitation of Richemont Australia]

Categories
Jaeger-LeCoultre Replica

Replica WATCHES WONDERS 2015 : Jaeger-LeCoultre Geophysic True Second and Geophysic UniversalTime

When the talk started about the Geophysic 1958 model being not a one (or rather two) off but part of a new collection, people wondered a bit. The 1958 was a successful and well-received homage/ reissue for Jaeger-LeCoultre that could have sold out several times over, but to turn it into an entire collection? Would it dilute the original meaning? Would new models just, somehow, seem a bit ‘wrong’?

A quick recap.

In 1958 Jaeger-LeCoultre commemorated the International Geophysical Year by creating a robust utilitarian replica watch that was protected against magnetic fields (600 gauss), shock and water resistant, as well as extremely accurate. Fitted with Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 478b, the Geophysic chronometer was presented to the commanders of the Nautilus and Skate, the first atomic submarines to go under the North Pole, with a gold Geophysic chronometer specially engraved for the occasion. Only 1,290 of these were made, and it remains a highly desirable and sought after piece.

Watches & Wonders 2015 showed that there was no need to be overly concerned, although obviously any future models will again be subject to as much scrutiny as these new pieces have been already. Note that Jaeger-LeCoultre have already made these available in their boutiques and dealers, to coincide with their official launch.

First up is one of the most talked-about replica watches in Hong Kong, the True Second, which I keep on absent-mindedly calling it the ‘dead second’, but I am working on this, I promise. This replica watch has been buzzing around the online and offline replica watch worlds already. For those who wanted the Geophysic 1958 but didn’t mange to get it, this is not a bad alternative at all. If I dare say so, I prefer this to the Geophysic 1958.

Whilst the True Second and the more complicated Universal Time may appear at first glance to be pieces that could be at home in another collection line, with their movements they fit here, because of their emphasis on functionality but within the context of movement and precision being key. Precision was criticial to the original Geophysic and is the heart of these new models, through the use of a ‘true second’.

As mentioned, the original Geophysic was launched in 1958 to coincide with the International Geophysical Year, so it was always intended as a functional precision instrument with endurance and accuracy as key. This has again been reiterated with the True Second.

Available in either stainless steel or pink gold (the former is my pick), it has but the time and date. The seconds hand is what it’s all about, with the traditional smooth seconds hand of the mechanical replica watch swapped for the one second tick change that is common to true/ dead beat seconds replica watches (called as such because of the ‘dead’ space between seconds) and more familiarly seen in quartz replica watches. Dead/ true beat replica watches are something of an anomaly in mechanical replica watches, more commonly seen amongst smaller brands such as Arnold & Son, Habring2 and De Bethune. It is a sign of replica watch geekery for Jaeger-LeCoultre to have done this. A sign of replica watch geekery that has made people quite excited.

So, what’s it all about?

It’s about the Calibres 770/ 772, the movement at the base of the True Seconds and Universal Time respectively. Developed in-house to meet the historical expectations of its predecessor as mentioned above – precision, reliability and an automatic movement, both new movements contain the ‘true’ or ‘dead’ beat seconds. There are two gear trains : one for the escapement and one that releases every second for the dead beat – a second hair spring that releases every second.

The roots of this new movement are in the Gyrolab balance of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Master Compressor Extreme Lab 1, which had been produced to show off what they can do. Six patents and the Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 988C that is able to run for years without any wear or deterioration, purportedly even at -40°C.

What had been most discussed at the time of the Extreme Lab 1’s production was the lubrication-free escapement, which people wondered whether was going to make its way into other replica watches. The balance that looks like two arcs (or the Jaeger-LeCoultre logo) was apparently serendipity rather than by design, although it has been turned into as such. With less friction leading to better oscillation and no oil, they’re now calling the descendent the ‘Gyrolab balance’, and is in these replica watches.

Jaeger-LeCoultre’s head replica watchmaker does a final check

But it’s not just about the technical aspects, it’s also about the dial, particularly for the True Seconds, which is a classic clean design.

Hour markers are silvered grained, appliqued, and the Super-LumiNova-filled baton hands are polished and faceted, something that features in other Jaeger-LeCoultre dress replica watches. In contrast, the sober dial is matte, giving it a very understated appearance. This replica watch is really not for show, it hides its achievements in a very conservative guise.

Finishing wise there is satin-brushed finishing for the side of the case, and polished finishing for the bezel and lugs. A really nice touch is the lumed hour marker dots around the chapter ring between the dial and the bezel, which adds a bit of visual interest as much as night time functionality.

Another precision point to note apart from the movement is that when the crown is pulled out you can set the hour hand independent of the minute hand, with the date adjusting as necessary. Good for travellers. Good for those who like exactitude.

The Universal Time shares the same basic movement (both with a 40-hour power reserve) and case design, but despite the added world time complication (making it Calibre 772, with a thickness of 7.13mm versus the 770’s 6.57mm height), the replica watch’s height is minimally larger, at 11.84mm as compared to 11.8mm for the True Second. The Universal Time case, however, is 1.5mm larger than the True Seconds, with 39.6mm for the True Second and 41.6mm for the Universal Time.

The elegant blue planisphere of the world (stamped, translucent lacquer, with the continents brushed for a matte finish) uses radiating lines indicating time zones, with Greenwich Mean Time indicated via a red dashed line. The line with an asterisk next to a city (and there are twenty-four cities in total) is a quick easy-to-read way of indicating winter and summer time. In fact you don’t have to re-synchronise cities, the earth and cities do not move. Once you set the world timer, that’s it. The time zones are always the same, all that changes is your reference time zone (the ring between the planisphere and the cities). Night is indicated by the dark blue half.

Comparison with the Memovox International

These new additions to the Geophysic Collection have already been much discussed in the last few days for their design and the ‘true seconds’ movement. Functional and yet with technical skill at their heart, they are available now, and are interesting and good looking ‘watchy’ replica watches that will no doubt have broad appeal.


[Horologium attended Replica Watches & Wonders 2015 by invitation of Richemont Australia]

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Breitling Replica

PHOTOS : Replica Breitling Avenger Blackbird44

Basel2015BreitlingAvengerBlackbird44a

A new 44mm version of the 48mm Avenger Blackbird was launched at Baselworld 2015, and we recently had the opportunity to see it, along with some other 2015 releases, at the Sydney boutique.

This more reasonably (and accessibly) sized case of the popular 48mm model is also in titanium, with a satin-brushed finish and scratch-resistant black coating. The date window now has a red frame and water resistance is down from 300m to 200m. The latter point may disappoint some people but then again, how many of us test water resistance its max?

The light (73.6g) and sturdy case features a highly resistant black carbon-based treatment. The dial is clear and legible, with attractive ‘vintage’ look lumed hour markers and hands. The unidirectional rotating bezel has the classic replica Breitling rider tabs.

Inside is the automatic Calibre 17 with a 40-hour power reserve.

The Avenger Blackbird 44 comes on a ultra-durable black fabric strap and is, all round, a comfortable replica watch to wear. With its matte black look and red highlights, this will be appealing to those who have wanted to have a Breitling but for whom the larger (and brighter) models have not quite been what they’ve been looking for.

Australian RRP is $6,620.

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Breitling Replica

PHOTOS : Replica Breitling Galactic Unitime SleekTWorldtimer

Basel2015BreitlingGalacticUnitimeSleekT5

A little while ago we mentioned the launch of a new worldtimer from Breitling at Baselworld 2015, called the Galactic Unitime SleekT. Recently, we had the opportunity to see it ‘in the metal’ at the Breitling boutique, Sydney.

To briefly recap, this new piece is in a 4mm stainless steel case with a tungsten carbide bezel. Inside is the automatic Calibre B35 with a seventy hour power reserve. The two dial colours are called ‘Antarctica White’ and ‘Trophy Black’.

So what are they like away from the press photos? Well to start off with, they are heavier than I had expected. A stainless steel bracelet will always add weight to a fantastic replica watch of course, but to what extent will obviously depend on the thickness of the links and so forth. This has a decent heft to it.

In terms of its general ‘look’, the press phots were fairly much on the mark, but what did stand out for me was my response to the two different colours of the dials. If I look at my own replica watches, I seem to have more pieces with darker dials than lighter ones. This has not been deliberate, but for whatever reason, I appear to lean towards them. It was the case with these two options when I first saw photos of them.

When I handled them, however, it was a completely different picture, and I found myself preferring the white dial. Why? They are both very clear dials to read in terms of functionality, but there’s no denying the patrilineal burden I’ve inherited of poor and ever deteriorating eyesight. The white dialled one was clearer when taking this into account, but it also just seemed to engage me more on an immediate level. This is such a subjective preference and response to a replica watch that you may well have a different reaction in terms of black or white, but it was interesting how quick my change was in terms of my personal preferences.

RRP for Australia is $11,890.