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GoS :High Qualiy Replica Gustafsson Sjögren’s Damascus steelwatches

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After a number of years of tracking them on social media in particular, I was finally able to see these most ‘metal’ of ‘in the metal’ replica watches at Baselworld 2016. What had drawn me to them was both how unusual they were as a dial material and how hypnotic the patterns were.It had been a long wait, and truth be told I had thought that I would never see replica watchmaker Patrik Sjögren and blade smith Johan Gustafsson’s Damascus steel replica watches in anything other than an online form.

So what is Damascus steel?

As the name hints at, Western Europeans were first introduced to it circa 3rd – 4th centuries from Damascus. Wootz was popular outside of Europe, linked more to the Middle East and through to India. Pattern-welded steel in the form of katana were developed in Japan in the late 1100s during the Kamakura period.

The original method of producing Damascus steel is long lost. The term itself can be broken down into ‘cast Damascus steel’ (aka ‘Wootz’) and fabricated (aka ‘pattern-welded’) Damascus steel, with both characterised by patterned steel that is the result of the mixture and manipulation of iron and steel. The general idea is that two or more steel alloys are forged/ cast together in layers through various methods to get particular (mostly wave) patterns.

Wootz is produced by melting pieces of iron and steel with charcoal in a reducing atmosphere. The metals absorb carbon from the charcoal and the resultant alloy is slowly cooled, resulting in a material with a visible crystalline structure that is then able to be forged into a blade for example. It is in the forging process that the wave pattern appears. The high carbon content is what is important to this; the proportion of it has to be exact, too little means you will get wrought iron and too much, cast iron.

Pattern-welded steel is similar to Wootz but less labour intensive. Two or more pieces of iron and steel are layered and then forge-welded together produced pattern-welded steel, forcing the two metals into one. Stretching this new composite material and forge-welding it back onto itself is what gives the multiple layers that can be manipulated to produce the similar pattern.

What is referred to as ‘Damascus steel’ nowadays, given the lost methods of yore, are those that are pattern-welded.

The blade smith behind GoS is Johan Gustafsson, who has been doing this for over two decades. He takes his inspiration from Viking blades of the Middle Ages and is known for pattern-welded ‘mosaic’ Damascus steel, which is exactly what it sounds like – the ability to create repetitive patterns.

Damascus steel is hard. Very hard. Which makes the use of it more difficult in terms of the traditional finishes used in replica watchmaking such as bevelling and polishing, for example.

As well as the dial and case, some GoS replica watches have Damascus steel used in the movement, and the difficulties of using this sort of steel, including treatment such as the use of hot acid to make these vivid patterns visible, means that the the entire process of just finishing a single part up to the ‘finishing’ point can take up to a week.

As per the movement, the Damascus steel cases are also dipped in acid, twice. Only the visible parts of the case are exposed to the acid to ensure that the case maintains its water resistance. The dial patterns on the Damascus case models have over 120 layers.

A dial starts with 2.5kgs worth, using four different steels which are stacked into a 12-layer billet (in ‘steel language’, a billet is a semi-finished piece of steel product that has a round or square shape, with an area less than 155mm x 155mm. Because it is semi-finished it needs further processing). This is then forge-welded (as per the description earlier) ten to twelve times to get the requisite layers. At the end of this process, the surface is then worked on by him to achieve the desired design/ look. To give you some idea of how much work goes into the dial, this 2.5kg only generates five dials.

Today I am sharing two models with you. The first is the Sarek, which had its premiere as a prototype at Baselworld 2016. In a 43mm stainless steel case, it has GoS’s largest Damascus dial to date and is also the first model to have the new crown inspired by Viking sword hilts. The Viking nod continues on the hands, which are inspired by Viking bracelets.

The landscape of a valley in the Sarek National Park in Swedish Lapland is the source of both the name and the colour/ pattern choice for this model. Home to some of Sweden’s highest peaks, glaciers and the largest Moose population in Europe, this last point has, rather delightfully, made its way to the Sarek strap, which is Moose leather.

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The dial is a 164 layered Damascus steel and because of the nature of the material, every Sarek’s dial will be slightly different, although obviously they share the same overall ‘feel’. As mentioned earlier, there is Viking inspiration in the form of the index ring (bracelets), hands (spear), and how the case is finished (again, Viking bracelets).

Inside the Sarek is the popular and reliable Soprod A10 movement, but with a custom rotor in a GoS triskele design.

The Sarek is limited to one hundred pieces and each will have ‘Unique piece 1/1’ engraved on it, as well as its serial number. They also come in their own special ‘Svepask’ boxes made of birch wood, and have a five year guarantee. The cost? USD $7,800 (plus 25% VAT). Some have already been delivered but you can find out more ordering details at this link.

Today’s second piece is called Winter Nights, part of GOS’ seasonal pieces. There is a ‘Winter’ as well, which you can see on their website, and there have been, in 2013 and 2014, other Winter Nights variants. This one is, like the Sarek, 43mm, but it has a Damascus steel movement option and the case is bi-metal (stainless steel and Damascus steel).

For this model, there are 192 layers to Gustafsson’s Damascus steel dial, whose design represents a wildflower. Again, every Winter Night will be, by nature of the Damascus steel process, be slightly different.

Inside is the GoS02 calibre, which is based on the manual-wind Technotime TT718. Power reserve is five days. The bridges of the base calibre have a straight grained finish with polished beveled edges, whilst the main-plate has perlage and a dark gray surface treatment. All wheels as well as the GoS logo are gold-plated to match the pink gold. Winter Nights is available with movements with either this classic finishing as per my photos, or with a Damascus steel GoS02-movement with Damascus bridges, which are made from woodgrain-patterned steel with the requisite hand-finishing and polishing.

You may also note the crown, which has nine indentations in it. This isn’t for grip, but a reference to a significant number in Norse mythology, but if it assists when wearing gloves whilst hiking in Sarek for example, then that’s a bonus.

As mentioned, the Winter Nights is bi-metal. It is also available with hands and the index ring in white gold or in red gold, as well as the movement options. Unlike the Sarek it comes on a nubuck leather strap, although you can request Croc. Each replica watch is engraved with a production number and it also comes in a Svespask birchwood box.

One of the great things about dealing with small brands and independents is that there is more scope for flexibility; GoS’s website states that Winter Nights is able to be customised, so if this replica watch takes your fancy, contact them at this link.

GoS replica watches have rather beautiful dials, and especially so when viewed under a loupe – in my case, a Loupe System one. The colours are gorgeous and the effect a little hypnotic at close range. These replica watches are not just for those who are into blades or Damascus steel, they are also for those looking for something different and who can appreciate the amount of work and skill not just in the making of the steel but also in turning it into a replica watch dial (and case).

Oh and if you’re wondering the answer is ‘yes’, you can get a replica watch and knife set. Click here for details.

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Hublot Replica

BASELWORLD 2016 : Hublot Classic Fusion xBerluti

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Watch brands can sometimes surprise us with unexpected partnerships, and Baselworld 2016 was the place at which Hublot announced two limited editions in partnership with LVMH stablemate Berluti, renowned purveyors of men’s (formal) leather footwear (although in more recent times they have segued into the luxury sneaker game as well).

The babies of this collaboration are the limited edition Classic Fusion All Black and Scritto, the second more obvious-at-first-glance Berluti influenced.

Both are 45mm but for those unfamiliar with this sized Hublot case, it actually sits a little smaller, so don’t be afraid of the size, and as they are less ‘bright’ than some of Hublot’s other pieces, they also give an impression of being smaller than 45mm.

Both limited editions come with a Berluti Venezia leather for the straps (called ‘nero’ and ‘tobacco blis’ respectively) and, more significantly, for the ‘pressed leather’ dials. This being a highly unusual material for a swiss replica watch dial, it will be interesting to see how it fares over time with regards to the colour of the dial vs the colour of the strap, given the latter will be more exposed to the elements and so forth.

Limited to 500 pieces, the All Black features a polished and satin finished black ceramic case, sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment, and display case back through which you can see the automatic 42-hour power reserve HUB1100 movement. Because of how dark the dial is, its stamped features are quite discreet. The strap has a distincitve feature – what is called a ‘Gaspard’ incision by Berluti.

The Scritto Berluti piece has, not unexpectely, a smaller limitation number of 250 pieces. The basic differences lie in the case material, which is polished and satin-finished 18k King Gold, and the leather type, which is the calligraphy-inspired Venezia Scritto calf leather synonymous with Berluti. Otherwise it contains the same movement as the All Black.

The pieces are interesting and come in rather fittingly designed boxes which include a leather treatment kit, as per shoes. Because of the unexpected nature of this collaboration I spent time pondering their target market (I have a habit of doing this when I come across new collaborations) – it is Hublotless Berluti wearers? Hublot-wearing Berluti people? Berluti-wearing Hublotless folks? Those who don’t yet have Berluti or Hublot in their footwear and wrist closets? None of the above but someone else entirely?

They have been well received and to my knowledge customers started putting their orders in quickly, so I await with interest to see owner photos online to see if people are buying them to match their shoes.

I secretly hope that they are.

Categories
Hublot Replica

Space shuttle tiles, tank armour – it’s the Bullet BANG!

So, is replica Hublot’s Big Bang Bullet Bang (hereafter called ‘Bullet Bang’ for ease) bulletproof? The case and bezel are made of micro-blasted Cermet, an alloy made from CERamic and METal (bronze in this case). Cermet is used for tank armour, space shuttle tiles and bullet proof vests. It is also used in the manufacture of more commonplace items such as saws, tools, resistors, capacitors and other electronic components which may experience high temperatures. The Bullet Bang’s case is supposedly unscratchable. Whether or not it is bullet proof is a test that I shall defer to others; please do tell me if you conduct such a test, and remember, photos or it didn’t happen.

In many ways, Big Bangs seem to be replica watches that generate a lot of discussion, and they can be divisive. There are numerous reasons for this, including the sheer enormity of the range (both limited and regular production), and the unabashed in-your-face design of many of them. However, there is no doubt that they are much talked about and that Big Bangs have many fans. Today’s Bullet Bang, name aside, is one of the more discreet of the BBs.

As is the case with its Big Bang siblings, the Bullet Bang is a 44mm case with titanium H-shaped screws and an anti-reflective sapphire. Its crown is black PVD steel with a black rubber insert and the replica watch is water resistant to 100m.

The Bullet Bang is a limited edition of 500. What is interesting is that an unknown number of the early editions (possibly fifty) used a column wheel chronograph (called the HUB 44 RAC), and were identifiable as such on the dial. The rest of them, including this one, are the workmanlike Valjoux 7750 which makes then naturally less expensive than the early ones. The column wheels have a Lajoux-Perret calibre and are Ref. 303.BI.1190.RX whilst the 7750 are Ref. 301.BI.1190.RX. Given that it is a 7750 movement, I’m not entirely sure about the necessity of an open caseback, but here it is.

The pushers are made of stainless steel with black PVD and require a firm hand to activate. Next to the pushers, the side inserts are made of black composite resin. The crown is also stainless steel PVD.

The dial has good legibility, and the matte black case contrasts nicely with the polished hands, applied numbers and indices, which are bronzed to match the case.

In terms of its sturdiness and scratch resistance, the use of Cermet and PVD makes the Bullet Bang an option as a solid toolwatch if you are looking for a toolwatch at this price point. You don’t have to worry too much about damaging it.

This is on a rubber gummy Alligator, which suits it well and is comfortable. The deployant is PVD coated and easy to use, though its length means that for smaller wrists, it will cover the entire bottom of the wrist, so it may be more comfortable if it is pushed up a little from the wrist.

The Bullet Bang is surprisingly lightweight and easy to wear. As far as Big Bang goes, this is a relatively low key one, and despite coming out a few years ago it fits in well with the 2011-2012 bronze trend, though as it is Cermet, it will not develop the patina that many bronze enthusiasts are keen about. If you like the look of it, it’s still available, including here in Australia.