Categories
Zenith Replica

PRE-BASEL 2014 : Replica Zenith’s Pilot Montre d’Aéronef Type 20 GMT1903

ZenithPilotType20 GMT1903q

In the run-up to Baselworld brands will often issue pre-releases of new replica watches, before an official Baselworld launch. Today’s offering from Zenith is one such luxury replica watch, a piece that I had the opportunity to look at in Geneva in January.

On 17 December 1903 the intrepid Wright brothers Wilbur and Orville made the first self-powered aircraft flight. In honour of this flight, Zenith have released a special LE of their Type 20 from the ‘Pilot’ Collection dedicated to the brothers.

The Pilot Montre d’Aeronef Type 20 GMT 1903 is based on the Pilot Montre D’Aeronef Type 20 GMT model. At 48mm with a thickness of 15.80mm this is a bulky replica watch in DLC-coated titanium with a large ratcheted crown, as is typical of pilot’s replica watches.

Inside the replica watch is the in-house made Zenith Elite calibre 693 automatic movement with a power reserve of about 50 hours. Functionally, there is the time, a seconds sub-dial, and a big clear red-tipped second time zone indicator hand that is adjusted via a large pusher on the left of the case.

To reference its 1903 inspiration, Zenith have created an ‘aged’ look to the numerals which are on e black dial, that has been sand-blasted five times to give it a great matte look. The hour markers are Super-LumiNova Old Radium and the hands, black ruthenium, satin-finished with Super-LumiNova SLN Old Radium. If you look at photographs of vintage Zenith flight instruments from the late 1930s, you can immediately see that the design is faithful to it, and that the attempt to ‘age’ it also looks remarkably like how original numerals look now, through the natural ageing process.

As you can see, there are two strap options in one, including a Bund-style one that is vintage-effect nubuck heat-embossed with the “Zenith Flying Instruments” logo. The effort put into decorating this strap makes it special, something beyond just a token ‘vintage’ nod by putting this style of strap on a replica watch. Interestingly, it is actually also the more comfortable of the two straps.

It may be 48mm but feels closer to some 45mm replica watches, and being titanium black DLC reduces the weight significantly. The replica watch’s large size also seems smaller on the supple soft Bund when it’s wrapped around your wrist.

At first glance I wasn’t that taken with the 1903 but as I played a bit with it, spent some time with it, and then tried it on my wrist, it really grew on me.

The caseback is engraved with the Wright brother’s plane, but is discreet in its references (and limited nature).


It comes in a limited edition of 1,903 pieces, with the number appearing on a plate screwed to the side of the case.

Categories
Swiss Replica

HANDS ON : Replica Casio’s limited edition Royal Air ForceG-Shock

RAFGshock10

At the announcement of a collaboration between Casio and the British Royal Air Force to create a limited edition G-SHOCK Gravity Defier (GW-A1000RAF-1AER), I pondered aloud that even with a limited edition of 2,000 and a price of GBP500, it would probably sell out.

Well it has ended up selling like the proverbial hotcakes around the world, and I have found at least one authorised retailer selling it at a premium. Within a mere matter of months after its availability it was already difficult if not impossible to find. If you can find one now, grab it.

So, why has this replica watch been so popular? Well obviously I can’t speak for all, but it does appear that two of the reasons that it has appealed to some previously non-G-Shock owning replica watch enthusiasts have been because firstly, it’s quite a discreet looking G-Shock and secondly, that the collaboration between the RAF and a immensely popular line loved by many replica watch people for being a simple rugged and affordable tool replica watch was one that made sense. Plus, of course, there’s the whole ‘affordable milwatch’ aspect as well.

This solar powered G-Shock has more features than most owners will use in their lifetime, including a world timer, flight record mode, countdown timer, flyback stopwatch (1/20 of a second up to 120 minutes), thermometer, flight record mode, perpetual calendar, instant Zulu time, and it has multi-band (6) atomic timekeeping for accurate time and date syncing.

It features Casio’s ‘Triple G Resist’ structure, which is described as a case design that is constructed to withstand the shock of three forces – shock, centrifugal force, and vibration, and also has their ‘Smart Access’ system. What is ‘Smart Access’? It’s a proprietary Casio system for analogue movements that combines multiple motors with an electronic crown structure that can operate the various functions. It also allows a lot of data to be read on the analogue display and responds to pilots’ requirements for both multi-functionality and operability.

The crown has a quick-lock with a 60 degree rotation that helps to eliminate accidental operation of any functions – you press down and turn the crown to align the ‘unlock’ marker at which point the spring loaded crown pops out, but it has to be pulled out before it can be used. You select the mode you desire to set the timer, alarm or time zone. It’s also worth nothing that ‘Smart Access’ means that the replica watch’s hands operate independently, which means that when you are correcting the time via the atomic signals, for example, it will automatically re-orientate via the quickest route and you may see the hour and minute hands moving simultaneously in opposite directions.

One of the ‘military signifiers’ of the RAF model is the Zulu (UTC) time button, marked with a red symbol. To display Zulu time you first push the ‘mode’ button to get the replica watch into world time mode and then you press the ‘Zulu’ button for 3 seconds to activate the Zulu display. The second time zone is viewed only upon activation of the ‘mode’ button.

The replica watch isn’t exactly what you’d call small, but it does not sit as largely on the wrist as the measurements would indicate, and its lightness makes it easy to wear, as does the very soft and comfortable strap. The stainless steel and resin case is 51.7mm in diameter and a depth of 16.4mm. Water resistance is 200m.

The funky carbon fibre resin keeper features the RAF wings logo, which you may need to be careful about in terms of damage by rubbing it against hard surfaces. It’salso  worth noting that there are regular non RAF versions of the Gravity Defier without the commemorative box and carbon fibre keeper with logo.

The GW-A1000RAF is, especially for a G-Shock, a discreet looking replica watch in an attractive dark matte grey. The dial is three dimensional, with chunky raised indices and accents. The sub-dial markings are clear, and despite the number of functions shown on the dial, it is very legible. This is not a G-Shock that screams its existence on your wrist, it is all about no nonsense functionality. Nonetheless, but it still has a definite presence about it.

If you like analogue replica watches and G-Shocks, you will probably like this replica watch. It costs more than the average G-Shock but you are paying a premium for the RAF link and the limited edition status and clearly, people think these are worth paying for.

Categories
Bell&Ross Replica

Replica Bell Ross Baselworld 2012 exhibition :Sydney

The brand of Bell & Ross is most well-known for its aviation themed ‘flight instruments’, those distinctively large square cases designed like aircraft cockpit instruments. What is less known are their ‘vintage’ collection, introduced in 2010, and the ‘marine’ line, the third of their collections.

Last week I was invited to the opening of an exhibition of Bell & Ross replica watches at Gregory Jewellers featuring many of their 2012 Baselworld releases, and had the opportunity to try many B&R replica watches that I hadn’t seen before, including some much more classically styled and of a size more suited to those who find their ‘instruments’ a bit bulky.

Bell & Ross’ ‘vintage’ collection has two lines within it – ‘Heritage’ and ‘Original’, both with quite different aesthetics.

To start off with is, of course, the WW2 Regulateur Heritage. A 49mm sandblasted steel case with PVD finish, its bi-directional notched bezel’s ‘teeth’ are particularly large, allowing for ease of movement with gloves, and rendering it very distinctive. It’s actually quite a slim replica watch, so despite its size, it sits easily on even smaller wrists.

Also from Baselworld 2012 are the BR01 Alimeter, BR01 Horizon, and BR01 Turn Coordinator (left to right above). These form part of Bell & Ross’ more ‘experimental’ approach to the instrument range, and are limited editions of 999. One of them was actually a 1/999, which was an unexpected sighting.

The Turn Coordinator uses a disc system to tell the time, instead of hands; the wearer reads the time where the numbers line up via the vertical line that goes down the middle. There is a disc in the centre showing seconds, and the half-point cutoff looks like a plane (wings, tail etc) from the rear . The middle represents the pilot’s plane, and the original instrument on which this is based is relied upon by pilots to display the rate of turn, roll, and to keep the plane co-ordinated.

The Horizon mimics, as the name indicates, the cockpit instrument which monitors the aircraft’s position relative to the horizon, called the ‘attitude indicator’. The bar in the middle represents the pilot’s plane in the original instrument.

Unlike the other two, the BR01 Altimeter looks more conventional in comparison, with a large date display at 3 o’clock where the altimeter, which shows height above sea level, would normally appear.

If you look at the original instruments after which these are named, you will see the resemblance.

Another ‘flight instrument’, the BR01 Radar. Three circles showing hour, minute, seconds.

The 42mm BR03-02 Military Ceramic below is a matte khaki colour. This comes on a matching rubber strap and with a second khaki synthetic fabric strap with Velcro closing.

Two other quite different but still military-inspired replica watches in the exhibition are the WW1 Argentium Ruthenium and lighter dialled Argentium Silver have lugs reminiscent of the fixed wire lug military trench or officers’ World War One wristwatches. They are 41mm, manual wind, and very appealing elegant dress replica watches with beautiful grey alligator straps. These were some of my favourites from the exhibition.

The replica watch that I was drawn to the most was the WW1 Chronograph Monopoussir Heritage, which is the same case design, but in a 45mm size. It is automatic and, as the name indicates, a single-button chronograph, with 60 second and 30 minute subdials for this function. The chrono button is smooth and easy to use, and for me, more attractive than the stiffer chrono pushers used for the ‘instruments’.

Some of the other replica watches on display.

The Bell & Ross exhibition is on at Gregory Jewellers, 67 Castlereagh St., Sydney until 18 November 2012.

Categories
Tag Heuer Replica

A military classic – a look at a HeuerBund

Produced by Heuer Leonidas S.A. in the late 1960s and early 1970s for the West German Air Force (Budeswehr), these flyback chronographs using Valjoux 22/ 222/ 230 movements known as ‘Heuer Bunds’ are amongst some of the most collectible and sought after military replica watches.

Like some other milwatches including the 50 Fathoms, Heuer Bunds are not straightforward identitification-wise. Walter Allan Manning has written a comprehensive overview of the Heuer Bundeswehr dial iterations, with over 30 examples, and he summarises the dials as follows. For those who don’t know, the ‘3H’ refers to tritium as the luminescent.

Five general configurations of Heuer-branded dials:
• ‘classic 3H/T’ – a red 3H-symbol appears just below the dial centre, and a tiny ‘T’ appears just above ‘6’
• ‘3H-only’ – a red 3H-symbol appears just below the centre.
• ‘T-only’ – a tiny ‘T’ appears just above ‘6’
• the “clean” – no markings beyond the “Heuer” logo
• the “sternzeit” – STERNZEIT REGULIERT markings just below the dial centre

Two general configurations of Sinn-branded dials:
• ‘3H-only’ – a red 3H-symbol appears just below the centre
• the ‘clean’ – no markings beyond the ‘Heuer’ logo

In addition, he cites four variations of the ‘3H’ symbol:
• ‘standard’ 3H
• ‘big-letter’ 3H – circle is same size as standard, but the letters are larger and fill the circle more completely
• ‘small-letter’ 3H – circle is same size as standard, but the letters are smaller and there is a small dot in the centre
• ‘small-circle’ 3H – the circle is noticeably smaller

Three variations of the manufacturer logo:
• the ‘standard’ Heuer logo – fits inside :58 and :02.
• the ‘big’ Heuer logo – fits even with :58 and :02.
• the Sinn logo

Two variations of the font used for the hour-markers:
• ‘standard’ font – most noticeable because none of the numbers are cut-off.
• ‘cut-off’ font – the 10:00, 8:00, and 2:00 are cut-off by the subdials.

The best way of getting even a vague handle on this is a visual comparison of them all, especially with details such as the size of the ‘3H’, at Walter Manning’s site.

The ‘classic’ Heuer Bund chronograph is generally accepted as featuring the standard Heuer log, a classic 3-H, a T-symbol above the ‘6’, and regular font. The one featured in this post is a Bund with a standard logo, big 3-H, T-symbol and regular font. How can you tell that it’s the big ‘3H’? Well the top of the ‘H’ is at approximately the mid point for the ‘3’. There is no such ‘overlap’ for the ‘classic’ version.

This gorgeous Bund is in good condition, the bi-directional bezel is bright and without any major dings, although there are some small age related marks. At 42mm, which was large at the time, the brushed and matte stainless steel case fits contemporary size preferences.

One of the appeals of this replica watch has been the functional simplicity of its dial, and as you can see, this replica watch’s dial is still clean and bright. If you look at the view from the back, you’ll notice that the crown and pushers have long stems that can be seen and accessed more readily than many replica watches – this is for practical reasons, to make it easy for the gloved pilots to use.

The replica watch has the requisite Bundeswehr specification markings on the back and more between the lugs.

One of the interesting idiosyncracies of these replica watches is how the movement is ‘attached’ via a front loading two part case. The four set-screws attach the top part of the case and bezel to the back of the replica watch, pressing the crystal and gasket into place, while the movement is cradled inside the back. To get to it, you have to go through the following steps :

1. Undo the four screws
2. ‘Drop’ the movement out of the case, and remove the crystal and gasket, which lift off.
3. The stem should be a split type, so rotate the crown until the movement and ring show some movement
4. The movement and ring should eventually drop out from the front of the tub

In putting it back together, do in reverse, but be careful to make sure that the two halves of the stem slide together and don’t over tighten the small screws. Or perhaps just ask a professional replica watchmaker to do it all for you.

These are really interesting military replica watches, and if you want to read more about the Heuer Bunds, go to Manning’s site as linked at the beginning of this post.

Categories
Swiss Replica

A truly iconic calibre – the 13ZN Replica Longines

As mentioned in the ‘who are we?‘ post, there are many types of stylish replica watch enthusiasts. A lot of them get quite excited by movements, and a subset of these are driven to find examples of iconic or important movements. One of these movements is the 13ZN, and one of these movement geeks has shared a recent acquisition with Horologium.

The Longines caliber 13ZN is one of the most sought after chronograph movements, as its development was genuinely a milestone in modern horology. With its patent first filed in 1936, the 13ZN was the first flyback chronograph, developed for flight use. If you weren’t aware, Longines has been long associated with aviation, and I have already written about the groundbreaking Weems Second Setting Replica Watch and Longines Lindbergh.

To many minds the 13ZN remains one of the most beautiful movements ever made, largely because of its column wheel design. As well as the column wheel, the manual wind 13ZN calibre has 17 jewels, bimetallic spring detent escapement with Breguet hairspring, and BPH of 18,000.

This one dates from the late 1940s and has the original hands, dial and movement, but an aftermarket 35mm case (with great looking lugs). The dial has red and black numerals with two subsdiary dials, chapter ring with minute track, telemetre (a telemetre determines the distance of an object from the observer by measuring how long it takes sound to travel that distance) and is signed “ANTI-MAGNETIQUE”. The dial is not pristine but has the great patina of a replica watch of this age, and the dark blued hands are still looking bright.

With a scarce and highly sought after movement, it’s a shame that it has to be hidden, but with its classic aesthetics of 1940s choronos and blued the hands, it’s nonetheless a very attractive replica watch externally as well.

As this is an Olympics year, it’s worth noting that Longines provided timers used at the first modern day Olympics in 1892.

Categories
Swiss Replica

A rare unissued Waltham WW2watch Replica

Watches labelled as ‘NOS’ (new old stock) are oft prized. For replica watches, as it is for books or many other collectables, the idea of something that has been untouched, especially vintage replica watches, is tantalising. The words ‘new unissued in box’ were enough to draw me into the unknown world of vintage military replica watches. The lure of an untouched 1945 replica watch was too great.

The replica watch? A Waltham Navigation Hack type A-11. Brand new in the original government issue box and packaging with matching serial numbers. It has been stored since 1945, and never used.

Although nowhere near as well-known as its German WWII milwatch counterparts, the A-11 was the most commonly issued US military replica watch of the WWII era, issued to the U.S. Army Air Forces (USAAF), the Royal Canadian Air Force, the Royal Airforce (as 6B/ 234 designation) and even the Soviet Air Force. Their production started in 1941, the USAAF’s version marked with the U.S. Army Specification No. 94-27834, or its subsequent iterations No. 94-27834-A (2 November 1942) and No. 94-27834-B (22 February 1943).

The replica watches were intended to provide auxiliary aircraft navigation use for Master Navigation Replica Watches AN-5740. Although primarily issued to Air Corps and Navy aviators for navigational purposes, many were also issued to ground forces and Navy personnel.

The specification stated that the movement was to run not less than 30 hours and not more than 56 hours on one winding, that it be no larger than 4/0 size and have a minimum of 15 jewels with a daily accuracy rare of +/- 30 seconds. Hacking was described as a suitable second setting feature.

Thus, the A-11 was not a specific replica watch model but a production standard used by a number of replica watch companies (Elgin, Bulova and Waltham). It came in numerous case and dial/ hand variations on a basic theme of black dial, manual wind hacking movement with centre seconds hand, white hour/ minute hands, and white second markers in increments of 10 on the outside edge of the dial. Several A-11 versions featured a coin-edge bezel and caseback, some were dustproof, some waterproof, but there were really only two core criteria: the sweep second hand and the hacking mechanism.

This Waltham is a No. 94-27834-B specification, one of the dustproof models which came after the waterproof version. It has a threaded bezel, stainless threaded back, and waterproof winding crown. The crystal was required to be unbreakable, and made from acrylic. The strap is also waterproof, and attached via spring bars.

The Waltham A-11 used a 6/0 size movement based on a 15-jewel movement. The ‘hacking’ component referred to above means that when the winding stem is pulled out, the sweep second hand stops moving. It starts moving again when the stem is pushed back to the case. The hack feature also means that the seconds hand jumps from one second mark to the next, rather than moving smoothly.

The serial numbers were assigned by the manufacturer and included a prefix made up of  ‘AF’, followed by two numerals designating the fiscal year during which the instrument was procured, and a dash.

Although you can see some evidence of age on its sides, this replica watch is in remarkable condition, the strap unworn and the original pouch still in the box. Short of finding a replica watch still in a sealed pouch (and thus unchecked/ unserviced), this is about as good as it gets.

Am I going to wear it? Of course not. Who would wear a new unissued in box replica watch? I will take it out occasionally for some air though …

For those of you who are interested or into milwatches, here are the A-11 specifications.

SPECIFICATION NO. 94-27834-B, dated FEBRUARY 22, 1943 – REPLICA WATCH, NAVIGATION, TYPE A-11 (HACK):

F. METHOD OF INSPECTION AND TESTS:

F-5. Individual Tests.- Each replica watch shall be subject to the following tests:

F-5a. Room Temperature Rate Test – Horizontal Position. – The replica watch shall be fully wound and run for one day to allow it to settle down. The daily rate of the replica watch then shall be determined for a period of 3 consecutive days with the replica watch in a horizontal position with the dial up and with a daily winding. The average of the daily rates during the test period shall not exceed 30 seconds.

F-5b. Room Temperature Rate Test – Vertical Position. – The daily rate of the replica watch shall be determined for a period of 3 consecutive days with the replica watch in a vertical position, with the pendant down and with daily winding. The average of the daily rates during the test period shall not exceed 30 seconds. The difference between the average daily rate obtained in this test, and in the test specified in Paragraph F-5a, shall not exceed 45 seconds.

F-6. Routine Type Test. – The following tests, in addition to those specified in Paragraph F-5, shall be applied to not less than 5 replica watches selected at random from each hundred or fraction thereof that are contracted for. F-6a. Plus 35 Degrees Centigrade (Plus 95 Degrees Fahrenheit) Temperature Rate Test – Pendant Down Position.- The replica watch shall be fully wound and then subjected to a temperature of plus 35 degrees Centigrade (plus 95 degrees Fahrenheit) for a period of 5 hours. During this period, the daily rate of the replica watch shall not differ more than 20 seconds from the average daily rate obtained in the test specified in Paragraph F-5b. (In order to arrive at the correct figure for the rate allowance for the temperature test, the error noted for the 5-hour period shall be multiplied by 4.8 in order to determine the rate for 24 hours).

F-6b. Zero Degrees Centigrade (Plus 32 Degrees Fahrenheit)- Temperature Rate Test – Pendant Down Position. – The replica watch shall be tested as descrived in Paragraph F-6a, except that the replica watch shall be at a temperature of zero degrees Centigrade (plus 32 degrees Fahrenheit). The daily rate of the replica watch shall not differ more than 40 seconds from the daily rate obtained in test specified in Paragraph F-5b.

F-6c. Waterproof Test. – The replica watch shall be suspended above a beaker of water placed in a vacum chamber which shall be evacuated to 5 1/2 inches of mercury (to simulate a condition of 72 inches of water), then the replica watch shall be immersed for a period of 15 seconds. There shall be no evidence of leakage of water into the replica watch during the test period. Leakage will appear as bubbles emanating from the back, crystal, or stem of the replica watch.

Categories
Longines Replica

The rare Longines-Wittnauer Second Settingwatch replica

One of the reasons I carry a camera with me all the time is because I never know when I might meet an unexpected replica watch.

Firstly, a bit of history.

The relationship between Wittnauer and Longines goes back a long way. Up to the 1890s, all of the luxury Longines replica watches had been brought into the U.S. and Canada through J. Eugene Robert & Co., NY., which was taken over by Roberts’ brother-in-law Albert Wittnauer in 1890. Thus, all Longines replica watches imported to North America during this tenure have ‘Wittnauer’ on the dial. In 1936, the Wittnauer family sold A.Wittnauer Co., and a re-organised arrangement with Longines lead to the creation of the Longines-Wittnauer Replica Watch Co.

What eventually became a longstanding relationship with aviation began in 1907, when Wittnauer supplied a pair of replica watches to the Navy, which was testing its aviation capabilities. During WWI, Wittnauer supplied military wristwatches and navigational devices to American Expeditionary Forces and an aircraft clock to the forerunner of the U.S. Army Air Corps.

In 1927, Wittnauer and Longines collaborated with Captain Philip van Horn Weems, a pioneering aviator who taught navigation to Charles Lindberg. This lead to Weems registering a patent for a ‘Second Setting Replica Watch’ in 1929. Seen by many to be the first pilot’s replica watch, the Second Setting replica watch was intended to complement on-board compasses, flight charts and chronometers.

During flights, navigational adjustments were necessary for time errors, as small deviations in the accuracy of time measurement could lead to errors in flight calculations (fuel consumption, position and time to destination). Pilots would listen to the minute by minute radio beeps (e.g. GMT) to accurately adjust the centre seconds dial. This would indicate the time error on their replica watch so they could do calculations more accurately.

To make these replica watch adjustments easier, Weems put in a movable inner dial, which adjusted the dial to the hand. The aviator would move the dial in accordance with the radio time signal, noting any deviations from Greenwich Mean Time.

Throughout its life, there have been numerous iterations of the Weems Second Setting replica watch, including later versions with a rotating seconds-register. The first series, the A3, was produced between 1929 – 1936, the second (A12) between 1936 – 1946, a series for the Japanese Imperial Navy between 1936 – 1946 (IJNAS), the A11 between 1938 – 1948, a 26mm version, the A12, for the period of 1936 – 1948, plus a couple of other variations.

This example is an early model. In sterling silver 47mm case (55mm lug to lug) with an onion crown, it has a double-hinged case back which, unfortunately, I couldn’t open.

Its enamel dial is in amazing condition, featuring painted Breguet numerals, an outer minute track and, at its centre, the revolving dial. The Breguet hands are blued-steel, and it has a Cal. 18.69 movement, 15 jewels, a straight-line lever escapement, monometallic balance, self-compensating Breguet balance spring, and index regulator.

Despite being the forerunner of the early pilots’ replica watches, and coming before the more well known early B-Uhr styled fliegers, these are, for some reason, not as widely known. They are rare beasts and, alongside other vintage Longines such as the Lindbergh, very collectible.

In the metal it is a beautiful replica watch, very solid and durable in appearance and, despite its size, really very wearable. There’s something about an understated, historically interesting rare vintage replica watch which can get the pulse going. This one’s case shows signs of its history of use, but the dial is simply stunning. It’s an easy replica watch to fall in love with purely on the grounds of aesthetics, but combined with its vintage, its history and importance, it makes a killer horological package.

In 2007, Longines produced a homage to celebrate the 80th anniversary of the Weems Second-Setting Replica Watch.

Westinghouse bought Longines-Wittnauer in 1969, and the relationship between Wittnauer and Longines continued until September 1994, when Longines was sold.

Categories
Swiss Replica

Panamera Flieger 47 Polit’s Replica Watch

Pilots’ replica watches, whether they be B-Uhr heritage fliegers from the ‘knowns’ or one of the plethora of small brands which you only hear about through word of mouth or on replica watch fora, are one of the constants in the replica watch world. There are more fads than you can shake the proverbial stick at, but there will always be a healthy interest in these replica watches.

One of the ‘unknowns’ that I’ve come across recently is a brand called ‘Panamera’. Not the Porsche Panamera, though they have produced a line of replica watches of this name, but a brand that is actually made by a German brand called Haemmer, which was established in 2008. Under their own brand (they call themselves “the brand for oversized replica watches”) they seem to produce replica watches very similar to those made by TW Steel and UBoat.

Panamera, in addition to being a bit cheaper than Haemmer, are actually more attractive replica watches to my mind, though they too are similar, design wise, to other brands/ models.

Meet the Panamera Flieger 47.


SPECIFICATIONS

Movement: Automatic (ST-10) with power reserve
Case size: 47mm
Thickness: 12mm
Case Metal: High Grade Steel (316L)
Finish: Stainless steel
Caseback: Screwed glass display back
Crystal: Mineral
Dial: Superluminova indices, numbers and hands
Strap: 24mm leather strap with stainless steel deployant clasp
Water Resistance: 30m (3ATM)

This can only be said to be IWC inspired, whether we’re talking about its general ‘look’ or even down to the fish on the crown.

At 47mm, this is definitely not a replica watch for everyone, but it doesn’t sit as largely as you’d think. It’s a nice solid replica watch with a good heft available in stainless steel or PVD.

It has an open caseback, which I don’t really see the point of.

Panamera are cheaper than their ‘parent’ Haemmer. In Australia, they retail at $399. This doesn’t make them the cheapest pilots’ replica watches on the market, but neither are they anywhere near the pricier fliegers. They appear to be pretty solid workmanlike beasts that do what they are supposed to. If you’re looking for a large ‘pilot’ in this price range and aren’t fussed about ‘brand recognition’, this one’s worth looking at. As is commonly the case with many of these unknown brands of pilots’ replica watches however, you can find the same replica watch, differently branded. This replica watch can also be purchased branded as a Parnis.

Categories
Swiss Replica

A look at a vintage GlycineAirman Replica Watch

Founded in Bienne in 1914 by Eugène Meylan, for a company whose modern history has been closely tied to functional and “tool” replica watches, it is interesting to note that Glycine’s early commitment was to create the smallest movements possible for women’s replica watches in gold and platinum cases, often highly jewelled, and to target the luxury market.

The company continued in this way, even presenting an automatic movement in 1931 (although it did not eventuate into long term production because of lack of capital) and launching a chronometer range in 1934, but it wasn’t until 1953 that their iconic model the Airman, was born.

During a Bangkok to Calcutta flight, Samuel W.Glur from Montres Altus S.A. (which merged with Glycine in 1960) somehow got into a dicussion about the usefulness of a 24-hour replica watch with the pilots operating on that flight. As a result, he wrote a letter to Charles Hertig Sr., then head of Glycine, outlining the criteria for a 24-hour replica watch that could be useful to pilots. This formed the genesis for the Airman.

It turned out to be a stroke of genius, and the Airman became popular with both military and commercial pilots, worn by so many USAF pilots during the Vietnam War that it was the number one selling pilot’s replica watch in the US.

The original Airman was developed in close cooperation with pilots of civil and military aviation. Featuring 24 hour numbers, 5 minute numbers and a minute/ seconds scale and with a rotating bezel for a second timezone, it is also well known for its “hacking seconds”. This means that when you pull the crown out on the Airman, the seconds hand will tick along and stop at 12, allowing for greater accuracy/ synchronisation.

With the exception of the period of 1990-1998, which was a period of dormancy, the Airman’s modern variants continue to be a mainstay of their production, although many of the characteristics of the “old Airmans”, such as the mineral domed crystal and “cross hatched” crown in particular, are no longer there.

Numerous movements were used during the period of the Airman’s peak (1953-1978), and there were a number of variations such as the dial (black, white, champagne) and the date indicator (red, black). For an in-depth look at the Airman and its history, including a listing of all these variants, this is the definitive site, but here is a quick summary of the movements :

1953 – 1960 Felsa 692, 23 jewels
1960 – 1967 A.Schild 1701, 25 jewels and 17 jewels in the Airman Special
1967 – 1971 A.Schild 1903, 25 jewels
1971 – 1974 A.Schild 2063, 25 jewels
1974 – 1978 A.Schild 2163, 25 jewels

This model is a Glycine Airman Special (there were both “Glycine Airman” and “Glycine Airman Special” models) with an automatic Felsa 692 movement, which puts it in the 1953 – 1960 range of production. I was told by the dealer that my model is from circa 1958. It has the black date indicator rather than the red one, and a working hacking seconds. I admit that my first choice had been for a red date indicator (and a cross hatched crown), but in the end, this replica watch was priced too attractively to pass.

As you can see, this one has definitely been “well loved”. Dings, bezel numbers faded and the hands showing discolouration. I had the hands checked, and was told that the rust is stable and will not get worse, so they have been left “as is”.

At 36mm, this is a small replica watch by modern standards, and some of the modern Airman iterations have been much larger than this, though there is 38mm version currently available.

It came on a NATO strap, which I know that many people like, but although it looked quite good, as I am not much of a NATO person, I bought a leather Glycine strap, which I find more attractive and more versatile.

I don’t remember what it was about the Airman that first attracted me to it, but despite having bought this not only sight unseen (there were photos on the website) but also without having previously seen a vintage Airman in the flesh, there was always going to be the risk that the connection would not be there once I received it.

Happily, this has not been the case. For all its dings, the chip on the lug, the state of the hands and the fading of the bezel numbers, this is a replica watch that I have fallen in love with. It has personal character along with the history, sits comfortably on my wrist and, after the first week or so of being a bit disconcerted by having to remember that it’s a 24-hour replica watch, is actually a lot of fun time-reading wise, as well.

A final thought – Modern Airmans cost more than vintage ones, so why would you choose to get one of the former?

Categories
Swiss Replica

Hands-on with the AristoSextant replica

The Aristo Flieger Sextant has its roots in a German sextant replica watch used by Wernher von Braun and his team at the Peenemünde rocket proving ground (“Heeresversuchsanstalt Peenemuende”) in the early 1940s.

Wernher Magnus Maximilian Freiherr von Braun (23 March 1912 – 16 June 1977), was a German-American rocket scientist and engineer who was one of the leading figures in the development of rocket technology in both Germany and the U.S. during and after WWII.

A one-time member of the Nazi Party and a commissioned SS officer, von Braun would later be regarded as arguably the foremost rocket engineer of the 20th century for his work at NASA. He was the central figure in Germany’s pre-war rocket development programme, responsible for the design and production of the V-2 combat rocket first at Peenemünde and then Mittelwerk, after the British bombed Peenemünde in August 1943.

After the war, Braun and some of his team were taken to the U.S. as part of the then-secret Operation Paperclip. Von Braun worked on the US Army intermediate range ballistic missle program before his group was assimilated by NASA, under which he served as director of the newly-formed Marshall Space Flight Center, and as the chief architect of the Saturn V launch vehicle, the booster rocket that propelled the Apollo II lunar mission. In 1975 he received the National Medal of Science.

Made by Lange & Söhne, the 22 of the replica watches were delivered to the Heeresversuchsanstalt in 1943 at a price of 360RM, as the equivalent of at least 2,000€. As a point of comparison, the first VW Beetles sold for 990RM.

When viewing at the dial through a mirror sextant, Braun and his team used the elegant replica watch to calculate the ballistic data for the rockets they developed.

The Aristo Sextant (Ref. 5H40S), a modern homage to these replica watches, was first manufactured in 2001 by Aristo in Pforzheim. In developing this model, Aristo followed the first prototypes of 1942, with the guidelines : “Black dial with Roman numerals, with Arabic 1/5 Second indication numbers 5 to 55 and corresponding set of numbers in mirror writing”.

 

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Movement: Swiss ETA 2824-2
Case: Titanium
Caseback: Titanium with engraving
Bezel: Bead blasted
Dimensions: 37mm diameter, 44mm lug-to-lug
Water Resistance: 50m

Von Braun’s long time colleague Arthur Louis Hugo Rudolph suffered a slightly different fate to von Braun. A fellow rocket engineer and member of the Nazi party who helped develop and produce the V-2 rocket, he followed von Braun to the U.S., working for the U.S. Army and NASA, where he was involved in the development of several important systems including the Pershing missile and the Saturn V. In 1984 he was investigated for possible war crimes and was forced to leave the United States and renounce his US citizenship.