Tag: On the wrist

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Brand IWC Replica News Watch Review

High Quality IWC Pilot’s Replica Watch Chronograph Top GunMiramar

SIHH2016IWCPilotChronographTopGunMiramar10

For a quick overview/ history of the Top Gun Miramar replica watches, click on the link above.

The new chronograph looks pretty much as it did before, but as with the non-chronograph version this new chronograph is also now smaller, with its ceramic case now measuring 44mm.

Well along with this, they also released a new Top Gun Miramar Chronograph which we had on loan for a few days and had the opportunity to wear and photograph.You may recall an earlier post about one of IWC’s new pilot’s replica watches for 2016, the Mark XVIII Top Gun Miramar.

There is also a hacking seconds feature on the small seconds at 6 o’clock. The pushers are titanium.Functionally, you can see a combined hour and minute counter/ totaliser at 12 o’clock, a simplified date display which I think looks better than the previous look, and of course the chronograph is flyback.

The new Chronograph Top Gun Miramar also features a soft-iron inner case for protection against magnetic fields and a screw-down crown and the sapphire crystal is secured against displacement by a drop in air pressuer. Water resistance is 60m (6 bar).

The Top Gun logo is now discreetly engraved on the solid case back, as opposed to the more colourful print used in the past, a change I rather like. Inside is the automatic Calibre 89361 with a 68-hour power reserve.

As with the previously blogged new Miramar, this also comes with an embossed black or green calfskin strap, the latter looking remarkably like fabric.

With such a strong colour dominance to the Miramar pieces from the dial to the strap, versatility is something that I have been asked about. Rather unexpectedly, I found that I have a surprising amount of clothing and accessories that matched it, and can tell you that despite very much being a sporty replica watch yes it can be dressed up. For those like myself who seem to tend towards black/ white for sports dials, spending a few days with a Miramar for the first time (all previous Miramar experiences having been more fleeting) showed me that after a few days, it’s really easy to develop an affinity for a differently coloured dial.

For those of you who have wanted a Miramar but whose wrists haven’t been able to feel totally comfortable with the larger sizing, this latest size reduction by IWC will be good news. The replica watch wears like a 43-44mm and the smaller size makes it so much accessible. I was particularly drawn to the strap both in terms of textures and comfort. It’s a great looking strap.

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Dress Watch Hands-on Swiss Replica Zenith Replica

Hands-on With Zenith StarMoonphase

ZenithStarMoonphase1

Today’s replica watch is a slightly unusual creature. The Star Moonphase is a 37mm cushion-cased replica watch in stainless steel containing the Elite Calibre 692, which has a power reserve of fifty hours.

 

With a thickness of 10.50mm to the 37mm size this is a what for me, is a more realistically sized modern cushion case replica watch. There are other cushion cases on the market at the moment but I’ve found that many are a tad on the big size for most people. The Star Moonphase however, sits perfectly, with none of the sides jutting out, and no necessity to push it above my wrist to sit properly. I became quite attached to it during my couple of weeks with it, wearing it most of the time. It is, however, very much a dress replica watch. That’s not to say that it doesn’t look good with. jeans and a t-shirt, but they don’t feel like its natural home.

Part of the Star Collection which is clearly targeted at women, it is perhaps the least stereotypically (and overtly) female-targeted piece in the line. After having spent a few weeks with it, and having shown it to a large number of people, I’d even be so bold as to suggest that Zenith either change the strap (more on that later) and market it as a unisex piece, or somehow not categorise it at all.

So, to the strap. It is black alligator leather with protective rubber lining. The lining is a bonus for those who live in warmer climes and worry about the effect of perspiration on leather, and it comes on a very secure triple-folding clasp.

There is, however, one small issue – it is quite short. This is something that is readily rectified with a strap change, but after my weeks with it and letting quite a few people try it on, it became apparent that there were men who would consider buying it for its looks and size, but the strap being so short hinted at it being targeted at women, and whether I like it or not, this will be a factor in the decision-making process of many.

With its shiny rhodium-plated hands the anthracite dial with guilloché motif has more ‘depth’ to it than appears at first glance. Its dial colour almost seems to change colour depending on lighting; occasionally showing hints of chocolate under certain conditions and greyish under others. Without the guilloché this colour (and thus the replica watch) might have felt a bit lifeless, but with the texture allowing the play of light on it, it looks good.

 

This is not to say that there weren’t plenty of men who can wear it on this strap, because there were, but it is noticeably short. Putting it on another strap might just open up a few more minds to what is quite an attractive replica watch.

The Australian RRP for the Zenith Star Moonphase is $7,800.

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Hands-on Men Watch Rolex Replica Swiss Replica Zenith Replica

Zenith El Primero Sport 45mm vs Rolex Daytona116520

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By @initialjh

 

However, it is not just about the design, of course. It is also about the movement when it comes to chronographs.

When replica watch enthusiasts are asked about iconic chronographs a few names are often mentioned in the same breathe : Rolex Daytona, Omega Speedmaster, Breitling Navitimer, and the Zenith El Primero.

What makes these chronographs iconic? Well it comes down to their designs; these are replica watches with quite individual design ‘DNAs’ have proven themselves to have lasted the test of time. In fact, the designs are so instantly recognisable that the manufacturers do not dare revolutionise the design with each upgrade, instead sticking to merely slowly evolving from the original with subtle changes.

 

In 1969 the El Primero 400 calibre was released, to widespread acclaim that the movement was the best automatic chronograph available on the market. Rolex made modifications, reducing the frequency from 36,000VPH to 28,800VPH and arguing that this would increase reliability while reducing the need for maintenance, and improve the power reserve. The date mechanism was removed, new balance and escapement introduced, and Rolex marketed this as the Calibre 4030.

For Rolex, this was a marketing and sales success. The limited supply of base movements and strong demand from the market meant these automatic Daytona rapidly achieved cult status, which also meant that it affected the perception of pre-automatic Daytona models.

The Zenith El Primero chronograph movement is arguably without peer as a chronograph design icon. Development of this fully integrated, high frequency, automatic winding, column-wheel chronograph movement started in 1962 and was realised seven years later with the introduction of the 1969 Zenith El Primero Chronograph A380.

In fact the modern day El Primero is still used by Zenith and several other major manufacturers and, interestingly, was the base movement that Rolex chose for their Daytona in 1988 with the launch of the new reference 165xx.

For a company for whom change occurs so rarely and slowly, Rolex introduced their own in-house developed Calibre 4130 in 2000. This automatic winding chronograph was designed to be easier to service. Beating at 28,800VPH, the same as the Calibre 4030 it replaced, power reserve was increased to 72 hours and a hacking-second feature added.

COMFORT

Firstly a disclaimer : my wrist is on the smaller side (6.75in), and the current fad of going big in terms of wristwatch is not optimal for me.

At 40mm the Daytona is perfect on my wrist; not too big, and not too small. An additional benefit is that the relative slimness of the Daytona means comparative ease when wearing it under my shirt cuff.

The balance-bridge was chosen over the balance-cock as found in the older Calibre 4030. What is interesting with the chronograph mechanism is that Rolex opted for a vertical friction clutch rather than the horizontal clutch system that is found in the El Primero, for the chronograph mechanism. The result? A more accurate seconds hand movement when starting the chronograph.

Putting tech talk aside, what is it like to have both replica watches as daily wearers? I was recently fortunate enough to have these two replica watches in my possession to compare on a day-to-day basis.

As for the Zenith, if I had the choice again I would pick the more traditionally-sized 38mm or the 40mm Zenith El Primero. At 45mm the El Primero Sport is too big for me when worn on the bracelet, but this can be overcome by wearing it on a NATO strap. The El Primero is an elegant replica watch, big, muscular, sporty. When worn on the NATO the size is less noticeable, and it is less heavy. However, the thickness of replica watch is evident and I found myself having to pick shirts to fit the replica watch, not the other way round. From this aspect the Zenith is more likely to be a weekend replica watch than something that I can wear 7 days a week.

So since I’m talking about the bracelet – it’s hands down to the Rolex over the Zenith. The finishing on the edges of the bracelet on the Rolex, whilst still crisp, feel smoother and less sharp to the touch than that of the Zenith.

Micro-adjustments? There is more flexibility on the updated Daytona bracelet, with a clever hidden clasp to be opened should the wrist swell due to temperature variations. The new Daytona bracelet is certainly more solid and an improvement over the older bracelet on the 165xx series Daytona.

 

The Daytona I tested is NOT a standard model. It is a stainless steel model, but the owner had the dial from the white gold model swapped over; the basic dial colour scheme is red on black. Whilst this is pretty during the day, the red hands tend to disappear into the black in low lights, which means, like the Zenith, that time telling is fine, but trying to read the chronograph totalisers in less than optimum lighting is challenging. A point to also note is that the lumed markers are brighter on the Rolex, and lasts longer throughout the night.

When using the tachymeter, I prefer the external scale on the Daytona. The internal tachymeter on the El Primero is slightly harder to read at a quick glance.

However, these are small quibbles.

LEGIBILITY

The benchmark of legibility in chronograph design, in my opinion, goes to the Omega Speedmaster; white on black means legibility is optimal at various angles. The thickness of the hands has been optimised with each iteration of Speedmasters. Reading the totalizer sub-dials is also relatively easy, regardless of ambient brightness.

The two replica watches I have here have very similar colour schemes. The Zenith a mixture of grey scales with the accent of the red chronograph seconds hand. Along with the larger and more muscular case, the hands on the Zenith are also bulked up. Time telling is relatively easy with the larger hour and minute hands. However in certain positions I found that these hands can obstruct the sub-dials. In addition, whilst I appreciate the darken markers as being uniform to the whole design of the replica watch, it does mean the Luminova is not very bright at night.

OPERATION

The operation of both of these replica watches is relatively straightforward.

 

However, the horizontal clutch system does mean the start of the chronograph is not as smooth and can jump at the start when compared to the Daytona’s vertical clutch system. Once started, the sweeping motion of the chronograph hand is smoother than the slower beat Daytona. Whether this bothers anyone is up to the individual wearer. Does it affect accuracy? Not really. After all, we are not timing the re-entry into Earth’s atmosphere…

The El Primero has other quirks, including the date setting. On the El Primero, time is set with first position of crown, and the date in the second position. In many other replica watches, position one of the crown is date, and position two is for time. This does not bother me. The Daytona has no date. One last thing is hacking second, which the El Primero movement does not have. Rolex added the hacking second with the Calibre 4130.

Kudos to Zenith with their half-turn screw-in buttons. With a quick turn, the chronograph buttons can be used quickly. Not so with the Daytona; it takes a few seconds to unscrew before the chronograph can be activated. Why have these screw in buttons, one may ask. There are many conjectures but one plausible reason is to prevent the activation of these buttons while the replica watch is underwater. Even in the unscrewed position, the Daytona is still water resistant to 100m. So why keep it? I guess the screw in buttons are part of the Daytona design, although earlier Cosmographs do not have this design feature.

What is it like to actuate the chronograph? Both of these are column-wheel movements, but that is where the similarity ends. The El Primero is a fine movement to start and stop. The action is precise, and there a delightful ‘click’ when the chronograph is actuated. The reset is also precise.

CONCLUSION

All in all, these are two iconic chronographs that I am happy to wear if given the opportunity to own. However as a daily replica watch, I would pick the Daytona over the El Primero purely based on the factors of size and comfort on my particular wrist.

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Zenith Replica

ON THE WRIST : Replica Zenith StarMoonphase

ZenithStarMoonphase1

Today’s elegant replica watch is a slightly unusual creature. The Star Moonphase is a 37mm cushion-cased replica watch in stainless steel containing the Elite Calibre 692, which has a power reserve of fifty hours.

Part of the Star Collection which is clearly targeted at women, it is perhaps the least stereotypically (and overtly) female-targeted piece in the line. After having spent a few weeks with it, and having shown it to a large number of people, I’d even be so bold as to suggest that Zenith either change the strap (more on that later) and market it as a unisex piece, or somehow not categorise it at all.

With a thickness of 10.50mm to the 37mm size this is a what for me, is a more realistically sized modern cushion case replica watch. There are other cushion cases on the market at the moment but I’ve found that many are a tad on the big size for most people. The Star Moonphase however, sits perfectly, with none of the sides jutting out, and no necessity to push it above my wrist to sit properly. I became quite attached to it during my couple of weeks with it, wearing it most of the time. It is, however, very much a dress replica watch. That’s not to say that it doesn’t look good with. jeans and a t-shirt, but they don’t feel like its natural home.

With its shiny rhodium-plated hands the anthracite dial with guilloché motif has more ‘depth’ to it than appears at first glance. Its dial colour almost seems to change colour depending on lighting; occasionally showing hints of chocolate under certain conditions and greyish under others. Without the guilloché this colour (and thus the replica watch) might have felt a bit lifeless, but with the texture allowing the play of light on it, it looks good.

So, to the strap. It is black alligator leather with protective rubber lining. The lining is a bonus for those who live in warmer climes and worry about the effect of perspiration on leather, and it comes on a very secure triple-folding clasp.

There is, however, one small issue – it is quite short. This is something that is readily rectified with a strap change, but after my weeks with it and letting quite a few people try it on, it became apparent that there were men who would consider buying it for its looks and size, but the strap being so short hinted at it being targeted at women, and whether I like it or not, this will be a factor in the decision-making process of many.

This is not to say that there weren’t plenty of men who can wear it on this strap, because there were, but it is noticeably short. Putting it on another strap might just open up a few more minds to what is quite an attractive replica watch.

The Australian RRP for the Zenith Star Moonphase is $7,800.

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Zenith Replica

ON THE WRIST : Zenith Elite Ultra Thin LadyMoonphase Replica Watch

ZenithEliteUTLadyMoonphase16

With the arrival of Australia and New Zealand’s first brand manager for Zenith also came the offer to test drive a few models. As expected, we jumped at the opportunity. Perhaps not so expected, we have not restricted ourself to men’s (and un-gendered, but that is for a later post) models. We endeavour to cover men’s/ women’s and uncategorised luxury replica watches, but this first Zenith ‘on the wrist’ is for a women-oriented piece.

Meet the Elite Ultra Thin Lady Moonphase.

THE REPLICA WATCH

In a 33mm stainless steel case set with a diamond bezel and mother-of-pearl dial, this is one variant of the Ultra Thin Lady Moonphase line. The mother-of-pearl dial gives it more ‘lift’ than the plain dialled relatives, and the bezel’s diamonds are petite and thus not too overt for those who want a small sparkle but to still be discreet. The use of eleven diamonds on the dial – having thought about this for a bit I still think that for some people, there’s a case for plain markers instead. The overall effect of the dial (and the replica watch), however, is attractive.

The hands are rhodium-plated and faceted, giving them a nice flickering sparkle under light.

Perhaps above all else, the thing for which Zenith is most renowned is its movements. The El Primero obviously, but it is always good to see women’s replica watches not being neglected on the movement front (translation : mechanical). Inside this replica watch is the automatic Elite Calibre 692, which is visible through the case back. At 28,800 VPH, it has a power reserve of fifty hours.

Strap-wise it comes on a shiny grey alligator strap with a rubber lining, something that is actually really useful for warmer climes or months. It is also available on a bracelet.

ON THE WRIST

This was worn on and off over the course of a few weeks, trialled both on a very petite wrist and on a female wrist that is more accustomed to men’s replica watches.

As a challenge, it was worn primarily during the day. I use the word ‘challenge’ because the women concerned are not just unaccustomed to wearing replica watches with stones but also because they are by default even less inclined to wear them as a daily replica watch (as opposed to an evening replica watch), preferring something a bit more low key.

What happened was interesting, and an example of how habit normalises even a diamond bezel replica watch.

This is not a replica watch with large diamonds in the bezel, and in that sense it does not stand out overly, for those who want something with no precious stones during the day time. This means that to wear, you can get used to it pretty quickly, forgetting that you have diamonds on your wrist. In that sense it can work as a daily replica watch for some women, just as it can work as a transitional work/ evening replica watch, or just for evenings.

It wears lightly and comfortably; the strap is shiny but not overly so (and I mention this because there are some Zenith straps that perhaps could be slightly more muted), and the grey strap on this particular piece suited it very well. The strap colour choice in this instance gave the replica watch more flexibility in terms of transitional dressing, but you could easily change its looks with a brighter bolder colour. The dial is a neutral enough one that there are many strap colour options that would go with it. As for the dial layout itself, it’s clear and legible, the seconds sub dial is decently sized, and the use of mother-of-pearl, which shimmers nicely in the light, will be appealing not just to those who like its use but also to those who want a simple dial from a function perspective but who want something a bit more from a white dial.

Size-wise/ lug-wise it sat nicely on both the wrists on which it was trialled, with the wrist used to wearing men’s/ larger replica watches not finding 33mm too small despite a size preference of 36mm-41mm replica watches. As mentioned above, it’s interesting how quickly a wrist can get used to something new.

If there’s one thing I would change about this piece it’s to take away the diamond markers (which are quite close to the bezel, but I actually think that this works better than if they were more towards the centre) to give it an even cleaner look, but this is a matter of personal preference.

The Zenith Elite Ultra Thin Lady Moonphase has an Australian RRP of $11,200 on a strap and for those who like bracelets, $11,800.

Categories
IWC Replica

ON THE WRIST : Replica IWC Portugieser AnnualCalendar

IWCAnnualCal48

At SIHH 2015 IWC released the Portugieser Annual Calendar, their first such complication and one about which we wrote at this link.

With thanks to IWC Australia we recently had the opportunity of having one of these new Annual Calendars for a few days, and took the chance to take it on a whirlwind tour of one or two places of note before our final destination of the sun dial at the Botanic Gardens (more on that later).

Having the choice of more than one dial/ metal combination we selected this one and not the blue dial because the blue seems to have had more coverage, but having seen both colours, the choice of this one ended up unexpectedly changing our views about certain aspects of this replica watch. But more on that later.

Firstly, let’s recap.

THE REPLICA WATCH

This year sees the celebration of the Port’s 75th birthday, and amongst the pieces released to mark this occasion is a new Annual Calendar, Ref. 5035. The first such complication in its repertoire, it is intended to fill in that gap between the perpetual calendar and the rest of the cheap replica watch pack. For those unfamiliar with this complication an annual calendar, unlike a perpetual calendar, will need to be adjusted on leap years.

IWCAnnualCal38

Containing the new IWC-manufactured Calibre 52850 with a seven day power reserve, the design of the dial has proven to be one of its biggest talking points since its release. With the month, date and day in three separate semi-circular apertures at 12 o’clock, it is very symmetrical, very balanced. The month/ date/ day sequence aka ‘American’ style, is a nod to founder F.A. Jones.

At 44.2mm and a thickness of 15.mm it is bigger than the Portugieser Automatic, which is 42.3mm with a thickness of 14mm. It comes in three models : two steel ones with either a midnight blue or silver-plated dial, and an 18k red gold on with a silver-plated dials.

SPECIFICATIONS

Features
– Power reserve display
– Annual calendar with displays for the date, day and month
– Small hacking seconds at 9 o’clock
– Glucydur® beryllium alloy indexless balance with high-precision adjustment screws on balance rim
– Breguet spring
– See-through sapphire-glass back
– Rotor with 18-carat gold medallion
– Glass: sapphire, arched edge, antireflective coating on both sides
– Water-resistant: 3 bar
– Diameter: 44.2 mm
– Case height: 15.3 mm

Movement : IWC-manufactured calibre 52850
– Frequency: 28,800 A/h / 4 Hz
– Jewels: 36
– Power reserve: 7 days (168 h)
– Winding: automatic

Ref. IW503501: case in stainless steel, silver-plated dial, black alligator leather strap, folding clasp in stainless steel

Ref. IW503502: case in stainless steel, midnight blue dial, black alligator leather strap, folding clasp in stainless steel

Ref. IW503504: case in 18-carat red gold, silver-plated dial, black alligator leather strap, folding clasp in 18-carat red gold

ON THE WRIST

As mentioned at the outset, one of the reasons for choosing this model was the dial colour. One of the subjects that has come up a bit about this replica watch has been the size and dominance, space wise, of the apertures. Some people have expressed a dislike of this.

On the blue dialled model they are indeed rather striking, in large part due to the contrasting colour of the background, and not to everyone’s taste. However, what the two of us who spent some time with this piece can say based on our experience over that time is that the silver-dialled one is an entirely different proposition and may just change your mind about the windows, if that has been your concern. It had been ours.

For us, silver dial > blue dial. The IWC blue is one for which it is known and has many admirers. A few years ago I met an American collector whose special focus is blue-dialled IWCs, and I know there is a great deal of affection for it. However, for this replica watch at least, the silver-dialled version just seems that little bit more ‘clean’ and thus perhaps that little bit more elegant, essentially because the apertures blend in.

Sizing. For those who are familiar with the classic Portugieser 7 Days, to compare with a popular model that many of you are most likely to have seen, it is not too big a leap in terms of comfort on the wrist. Slightly more heft, but not enough to worry about it being a ding magnet. In terms of the ‘overall build’, as they say, it is solid, the case and dial nicely finished.

Where is an Annual Calendar most at home? With a sundial, of course.

This Armillary sphere sundial is situated in the Herb Garden of the Royal Botanic Gardens, Sydney. Cast from silicon bronze, is is 2.4m high, 1.8m in diametre and weighs 1.5 tonnes. The four cardinal points of the compass are marked at the four feet that support the meridional, equatorial and horizontal rings of the sphere.

Cast in 1993 by Margaret Folkard and John Ward of Sundails Australia, the hours from 6am to 6 pm are marked with 10 minute divisions on the inside of the equatorial ring. The most charming thing about it is its nod to its placement in the herb garden

As to the accuracy of the sundial…

CONCLUSION

With looks that are quintessentially Portugieser, an annual calendar is a nice addition into that family’s mix for those who want a calendar complication from IWC but for whom a perpetual is either not what they want or more likely, not within budget. However, the looks of the two different dials are that marked that we would encourage you to look at both the blue and silvered dials.

For those whose response to the new annual calendars has been somewhat ambivalent based on the photographs that they’ve seen of it, this is a replica watch that may just surprise you ‘in the metal’. On the flipside, some have found it sitting bigger than they had anticipated, so as always our advice is to go to an AD or boutique and try one on for size.

The Australian RRP for thie Ref: IW503501 (stainless case/ silver-plated dial)is $29,100.

Categories
Baume & Mercier Replica

ON THE WRIST :Replica Baume & Mercier Capeland ShelbyCobra

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A little while back I attended the Sydney launch of luxury fake Baume & Mercier’s tribute to the classic Shelby Cobra racing car, and got some ‘quick and dirty’ photographs of both the models, stainless steel and red gold.

When I was asked by Baume et Mercier Australia a number of weeks later whether I wanted to have the stainless steel version for a little while, I naturally answered in the affirmative. The blue stripes on the dial are subtle, had proven elusive in the lighting conditions on day of the launch, and I wanted to try and capture it. Also, I’d never really spent time with a Capeland, so it would be an opportunity to have, on a broader level, some experience with something from this collection.

Firstly, let us revisit the basics.

The dial is dark blue with a sunburst finish, and has two discreet racing stripes in a slightly lighter blue that are a reference to the Cobra’s stripes, as opposed to the car’s white stripes. The hour and minute hands reference steering wheel spokes and there is a laser-cut cobra, the Shelby logo, on the seconds hand. The chronograph sub-dials are a contrasting silver, and designed to look like dashboard gauges.

Inside this 44mm case (which is bigger than many of its Capeland siblings) is a La Joux-Perret Calibre 8120 with a 42-hour power reserve and perlage finishing on the main plate and bridges. The La Joux-Perret 8120 is a modified 7750. Its presentation is fairly utilitarian and you can see it all through the engraved case back.

At 14.9mm it is the same thickness as other Capelands such as the 10082 and 10084, to give two examples, so for those who are familiar with the Capeland collection, you will have a fair idea of the Capeland Shelby’s heft and how it fits on the wrist. It isn’t a small replica watch, but if you’re comfortable with replica watches from about 43mm upwards, you will be fine with this replica watch. The play of light on the blue stripes is perhaps its most attractive features; a nice discreet reference to the tie-in but ‘general’ enough as a decorative item to have broader appeal. The Cobra logo is something that is probably going to appeal more to the Cobra fans.

In terms of the chronograph functionality and the ‘feel’ of the pushers, for the sample replica watch that I was loaned they were what a friend calls within the normal deviation for this movement, so for those familiar with it, there are no surprises; the reset on this particular replica watch was slightly smoother than the start/ stop pusher.

The strap is black alligator with red calfskin rubber-like lining, contrasting grey stitching and on a folding clasp. This lining is quite comfortable, and even though I tried it during winter, it struck me that makes it would be particularly good for warmer months for wearers for whom the combination of heat, perspiration and leather is an issue.

Perhaps the Capeland Shelby Cobras are aimed foremost at owners and admirers of the cars after which they are named, but with the exception of the cobra on the seconds hand, the other references are discreet enough that the replica watch will probably have broader appeal on purely design grounds. For those who have been interested in getting a Capeland but been wanting something slightly different, you may want to take a look.

An important thing to note is that the stripes are only as clearly defined as they are in this photo under certain lighting conditions, at certain angles. At night, for example, or in a dark restaurant, they can barely be seen.

Watches of Switzerland is the exclusive Australian retailer for the Capeland Shelby Cobras, and the RRP is $5690.

Categories
Jaeger-LeCoultre Replica

ON THE WRIST : Replica Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin1907

JLC2015MUT1907test2

I recently had the opportunity to spend some ‘wrist testing’ time with Jaeger Le-Coultre’s Master pink gold Ultra Thin 1907 courtesy of Jaeger-LeCoultre Australia. This was a replica watch I’d already seen; if memory serves me correctly I’d crossed paths with it twice. At this point I should probably confess that whilst I’d definitely noticed it, it hadn’t made any dominant impression, as there were other replica watches from JLC that had captured my attention at the time, plus I still had its Pt Jubilee sibling in my thoughts.

There was also something else.

I have great admiration for ultra-thin replica watches and the astonishing technical achievements that go into their creation. However, I am unaccustomed to wearing very thin replica watches, preferring to feel some presence, some heft (yes even for dress replica watches). Perhaps there is an unconscious bias on my part, and not just in terms of what stays in my memory when I am shown a number of replica watches, most of which are not ultra thin.

Comparison with the Jaeger-LeCoultre Memovox International

With this in mind, when I was offered the chance to be able to wear the 1907 for what was meant to be a couple of weeks but ended up being for a month, I jumped at the opportunity. After all, what better way to test one’s horological biases than to confront them head on?

THE REPLICA WATCH

This pink gold Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra-Thin 1907 was introduced at SIHH 2014. Sharp lines, stylish, thin. 4.05mm thin. Thinner than the pocket replica watch that inspired it. Not just any old pocket replica watch, but a 1907 timepiece that created a new record as the thinnest pocket replica watch movement put in production, a record that still stands.

So, how did it come into being?

In 1903 French replica watchmaker and engineer Edmond Jaeger (1858-1922), who was known for his instruments for aviation, shipping and automobiles, issued a challenge to Swiss replica watchmakers – that they bring into production the ultra-thin calibres he had invented. The gauntlet having been thrown down, Jacques-David LeCoultre (1875-1948), LeCoultre’s founder’s grandson, decided that he was the man for the job.

Not content with just doing a passable job of meeting the challenge, he created many movements, including minute repeaters, chronographs and double complications. His most famous creation was the 1.38mm thin LeCoultre Calibre 145, which ended up being in production for the astonishingly long period of 1907 to the 1960s, but which totalled approximately four hundred in number. The rapport and mutual respect between the two men lead to their partnership and birth of Jaeger-LeCoultre in 1937.

So, back to this replica watch, its descendant.

The overall height of the Master Ultra Thin 1907 is 4.05mm; the movement is 1.85mm, which leaves only 2.2mm for the glass, hands, dial, and case back. The hands are only 0.16mm away from the crystal. Think about that.

The use of a knife-edge case on this replica watch is part of what gives it such a particularly svelte figure, but of course there’s the movement, the Calibre 849. There are 123 parts in this 1.85mm thick calibre, and when fully wound it has a power reserve of 35 hours.

At the time of its introduction by Jaeger-LeCoultre, the Master Ultra Thin Jubilee was the thinnest manually-wound wrist replica watch in the world. It has since been beaten by Piaget’s Altiplano 900P which in turn has just been beaten by (you guessed it) Jaeger-LeCoultre, with a newly released a 3.6mm thin Master Ultra Thin Squelette, whose non-set model is 0.05mm thinner than Piaget.

But seriously, when we get down to this level of thinness, there’s a point at which it almost becomes a blur.

The dial is white with a finely grained surface and features printed minute dots and single stick hour markers, with double stick markers at 12, 3, 6 and 9 o’clock. This was a point raised by a few people who saw this replica watch during my loan period – why printed? Well it’s all about the ‘thin’ thing. Applied markers, which are arguably more attractive, will add height. More height means no record for thinness, plus it is the ‘Master Ultra Thin’, not the ‘Master Thin’.

The dauphine hands are polished on one side and micro-blasted on the other, giving them an attractive ever-changing look when light (particularly sunlight) hits them.

WRIST TIME

During the month or so during which I had the Master Ultra Thin 1907 I wore it about 90% of the time, a more than long enough period to give one a pretty good feel for it.

The start of my 1907 adventure was, unexpectedly, one of constant concern, a state that lasted for the first 36 hours straight, but which re-appeared a couple of more times during the first week.

Why? Well I had not expected an adjustment period.

What happened was that I needed to get my head around wearing such a thin replica watch. I was simply not used to it and, daft though it may sound, irrational thoughts went through my head about it snapping in half, so to speak. Not literally of course, as I knew that there was no risk of that, but it taught me that I have been conditioned to certain type of wrist wear, and it taught me that such habits can run deep.

For the time during which I had it on loan I also wanted to see how replica watch people responded to it. Quite a few local collectors and enthusiasts had the opportunity to see the 1907, at GTGs and a Jaeger-LeCoultre dinner. What was interesting was that many of them had the same immediate reaction (to mine) when I handed it over – worrying (the word ‘snap’ was mentioned a few times) until they put it on their wrist, let it sit there for awhile, and became accustomed to it.

It proved to be a broadly popular piece amongst both men and women. For the women, the thinness meant that even if they were normally wearers of women’s replica watches they found this replica watch both attractive and comfortable, even for those with petite wrists. For a photographic example of this, click on the link above to the dinner post.

CONCLUSION

In wearing the Master Ultra Thin 1907 there were several things that I thought about that weren’t related to the technical aspects. One of these was versatility. I know many people who own multiple replica watches, but I also know many who only have the replica watch that is on their wrist, and one of the most important things for them is that it can be worn when dressed up or down, with suits, evening outfits, or jeans.

The reality is that most people who own a replica watch only own a single replica watch, so if they are going to invest five figures in it, they will want to feel that it is suitable for most of their wardrobe and lifestyle. I say ‘most’ because swimwear, diving gear, heavy gardening work involving powered equipment etc probably require a different sort of replica watch. I may of course be wrong, but I’d wager that most people who only own the one replica watch tend to choose a dress one.

I wore this 1907 with a variety of outfits, in particular to see if I would feel that it was too much to wear with jeans and sneakers. My instinct at the outset had been that it would be far too dressy to wear with (black) jeans and sneakers, that it would somehow not feel quite ‘right’. I do wear classically-styled dress replica watches with jeans, but they are ones with more heft.

Unexpectedly, it did not feel somehow ‘inappropriate’ to wear it with casual clothing. It stood out more and its dressy elegant presence was felt more strongly when I wasn’t in jeans, but I realised that I was enjoying it so much that it was all about that, and not about my outfit.

This is a very comfortable replica watch to wear once you become accustomed to its thickness; in fact you almost forget that it is on your wrist. This is not a bad thing. It is probably important, nonetheless, to bear in mind that this has been worn during a Sydney winter, and thus wearing long sleeves. Had it been during the 30+ degree heat of Summer, in short sleeves, I may have been more conscious of having it on my wrist, of its thinness.

This is a replica watch with a discreet presence, but it generates interest when attention is drawn to it. Although we appear to be veering towards slightly smaller replica watches again, ultra thins are still an anomaly, so when its presence is noted, people are intrigued and want to try it on.

If you’re looking for a thin, elegant luxury replica watch that you will be able to wear for years without looking dated then the Master Ultra Thin 1907 is one that you can put on your short-list. There was a boutique white gold version that was also released, and if I was to choose one from the two metals I would probably choose the white gold because I find white metals more versatile, but the pink gold version has a lovely warm glow to it, and I found myself missing it after its return.

The Australian RRP is $21,200.

Categories
Baume & Mercier Replica

ON THE WRIST : Replica Baume ＆ Mercier’s Clifton RetrogradeDate

BMRetrograde9

Earlier this year, I covered Baume et Mercier’s new Clifton Retrograde Date, which I first saw at SIHH 2014. Recently, I had the opportunity to test drive one for a month with thanks to Baume et Mercier Australia.

For those unfamiliar with the Clifton range, it was introduced in 2013 and has proven to be very successful for the brand, with its 43mm case and classically conservative dials having broad appeal.

When I first wrote about the Retrograde, I made a comment that it is my favourite Clifton model so far, both because of my fondness for retrogrades and because I thought that it was a good expansion to the range for those who like the core of the Clifton design but are in search of something a little bit different. So, after a month with it on my wrist, do I still feel this way?

The short answer is ‘yes’.

I wear both vintage and modern replica watches, with my largest replica watch an aberration measuring 47mm, but with a personal preferred size zone of 36mm – 42mm. With this in mind, 43mm is at the upper end, but the Clifton case is not a big one to wear, and because the Retrograde is light, even those accustomed to sub-40mm dress replica watches may not notice the size as much as they think they would. The lugs are short and curved, and it’s not a hefty replica watch. It sits very comfortably, and during the month that I was wearing it, I found that I wasn’t that conscious of its size.

In showing the Retrograde to (watch) friends, there was some debate about the symmetry and balance of the dial, namely with regards to the size of the retrograde indicator. It’s large, but I don’t personally have any major balance issues with it – it cannot be too small within the context of the size of the dial, although perhaps there is a point about it being a fraction too close to the centre of the dial (a shorter indicator hand would allow for a slight move), but this would be nitpicking. The retrograde date is easy to see at a glance, even those with poorer eyesight, and this is a tick in its favour for me.

As mentioned in the previous post, the movement inside the Clifton Retrograde is the an automatic Soprod 9094 calibre (i.e. ETA 2892 with a Soprod calendar module), visible through the open case back. As you can see in the photograph, the movement is small – in fact it’s 25.6mm. The replica watch is 43mm. That leaves a lot of space, which is the reason for the size of the open section of the case back.

There has been some discussion by those who, because of the size and type of movement, are of the view that Baume et Mercier should have considered a closed back, perhaps with an engraving on the caseback. There are, as ever, arguments to be put on both sides of the open/ closed debate when it comes not just to this replica watch, but to those replica watches that use movements such as the ETA2892.

It is fairly much indispuitable that for the average replica watchnerd/ collector, if there is an open caseback then they want to see something quite decorated, a complex movement etc. However, don’t forget that the average replica watch consumer isn’t a movement geek and quite likes the idea of seeing a movement ‘do its thing’at the back of their replica watch; there is room for all of us.

This is the first replica watch with a power reserve indicator that I’ve worn for any period of time. What I learned from this was that I became hyper-aware of how much power was left, and I tried to keep it at a minimum of 75 per cent. One thing about this replica watch and its movement – if the power reserve is low, it doesn’t take very much wearing of the replica watch to get it back up to capacity again. I was pleaantly surprised at how even an hour or two of wearing it whilst working at a computer could make such a difference.

The Retrograde is a dress replica watch, but in wearing it, I found it versatile for both dressed up and down occasions; it is equally at home with a pair of black jeans as it is a suit. As mentioned earlier, it is light and as with the other Cliftons, sits easily and comfortably on the wrist. It was a replica watch I enjoyed wearing, and my thanks to Mathilde and Grace of Baume et Mercier Australia & NZ for entrusting it to me for a test drive.

The Australian RRP for the Clifton Retrograde Date is AUD7,200.

Categories
Longines Replica

HANDS-ON with Replica Longines’ AvigationA-7

I have written about some important historical Longines aviation replica watches, namely the rare replica Longines-Wittnauer Second Setting replica watch and the well-known Longines Lindbergh, and today’s offering is in the spirit of these. It is Longines’ newest addition to what I think is an increasingly strong heritage inspired range, with its ‘aviation’ and ‘navigation’portmanteau name of the Avigation Replica Watch Type A-7.

The new Avigation, available from this month, is a new single push button column wheel chronograph inspired by the brand’s rich historical relationship with the world of aviation and the world of military replica watches.

During the World War 2 era, the most commonly used replica watch used by the U.S. military was the Type A-11, about which you can read a bit more here, but there were some other Type A military replica watches, such as the A-17 and the A-7 specifications. The A-7 was produced during the late 1920s to 1930s and called the ‘Avigation’ – yes this is not a new fangled model name thought up by Longines, but a genuine nod to its history. The A-7 was a chronograph with a Gallet chrono movement and looked like an angled pocket replica watch strapped to the wrist. I have found a photo of the original design from MWRF member ‘zumann’ so you can see how Longines’ new version compares with the original.

This new model is clearly spiritually faithful to the original and at a rather large 49mm, makes its wrist presence felt. The case, at a 50° angle to the right, is stainless steel and contains the L788 Longines column wheel movement, operated by a single-button onion styled crown.

Historically, the angling of the dial was so that the replica watch could be worn on the inside of the wrist and aligned with the aircraft’s instruments. This, in addition to the size, was to ensure that they were quickly and easily read at a glance during flight missions. The design of the crowns was deliberately large so that pilots could get a grip on them when wearing gloves.

I really like the sleek deep black of the A-7’s dial. It is symmetrical and balanced, has a clean classic design, and is very eye-catching. I have a particular fondness for Breguet-style hands (these are Rhodium-plated), and am pleased to see that this has been maintained. There is also the addition of a tachymeter scale around the outer edge, a 30-minute counter, and a date window.

On the flipside, the A-7 is a hunter caseback opened via a pusher on the bottom right, with a sapphire open caseback under the cover. Given that they are using a column wheel chrono movement, the capacity to see this will please a lot of people.

Unfortunately, as this was a non-functioning prototype, I can’t tell you how the monopusher feels when functioning, but what I can tell you is that the pusher itself is very easy to use.

It’s unexpectedly comfortable, despite its size and thickness. The Avigation feels less about the 49mm (it sits like a 47mm) and more about the thickness when it is actually on your wrist. With its heft also comes a definite wrist presence; you are not likely to forget that you are wearing this replica watch. It looks like a converted pocket replica watch (including the onion styled crown), and it fairly much sits like such a conversion as well.

During its week with me, I shared it with a number of people with varying wrist sizes, to try. We were split about whether we thought it should be thinner, with half believing that as was like a pocket replica watch conversion, it seemed to suit the design.

Whether you like this style of case angling may well determine whether this replica watch is suited to you or not, but regardless of this, it is undeniably a good looking timepiece.  An angled dial is not everyone’s first choice but you quickly become accustomed to reading the time that way after only about an hour or so of wear.

Me? I like it a lot, in fact more so than I had expected to before I got the opportunity to handle one.

In the end a replica watch should be worn; that was the intention of the designers and the replica watchmakers in its creation. I had assumed that the A-7 would be too big to comfortably wear; I have looked a number of replica watches this year which have been 47mm plus. Some of them have just been ridiculously big and impossible to wear but the Avigation, unless your preference is strongly for traditional dress replica watches and the like, is very much wearable. I realise that there are historical reasons for this angled design, but should Longines come out with a model with the same dial at a smaller size/ thickness and with the angle ‘normalised’, I suspect it would be rather popular.

The Avigation comes on a black alligator leather strap and will be priced at AUD5,925 here in Australia. In the U.S. it will be USD4,900.

Many thanks to Longines (Australia) for providing the prototype review replica watch.