Categories
Chopard Replica

HANDS-ON : with the replica Chopard L.U.C.XP

Lately, I’ve been finding myself being increasingly drawn to time-only replica watches. Part of this has been for practical reasons such as not having to correct the date when I decide to wear a replica watch with a date function, and the simple fact that servicing a time-only piece is going to cost less. The other part is because I find that in many ways, trying to get a simple design right, to get it balanced, is actually harder than it may seem, but when it works, it really can be stunning.

The difficult art of simplicity is realised in this slim and oh-so-elegant Chopard L.U.C. XP dress replica watch.  The L.U.C. are Chopard’s replica watches named after its founder, Louis-Ulysse Chopard, and this particular model won the top prize at the 2006 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Geneve in the category of ‘ultra-thin replica watches’.

This L.U.C. XP is an 18 carat white gold case a smidgin under 7mm thick, with a matching 18 carat white gold buckle. The dauphine hands and Arabic numbers (also white gold) are perfectly proportioned and the dial has a slight sheen to it, adding a denseness and depth of richness to its blackness.

As well as it being a comfortable size that sits well on both the male and female wrist, I really love this replica watch’s classic aesthetics. Despite the L.U.C. XP (which has had several iterations) having been launched a number of years ago, this white gold model is in the current collection line-up, and I hope that it continues to stay in production.

Perfect for someone looking for something dressy and lightweight (you barely register its presence on your wrist), its insides aren’t to be sneezed at either – the 3.3mm thin automatic 29 jewel Calibre L.U.C 96HM movement comes with a solid 65-hour power reserve.

You really have to see this replica watch in the metal to get its full beauty, especially the blackness of the dial.  The intensity of the dial’s colour, combined with the contrast of the white metal are almost hypnotic in their understated elegance. This is just one damn fine looking replica watch, and I wish that it was mine.

Well, what are you waiting for?

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Reference: 161902-1001
Material: 18-carat white gold
Diametre (case): 39.50 mm
Thickness (case): 6.98 mm
Movement: L.U.C 96.17-L (L.U.C 96HM) self-winding
Power reserve: approximately 65 hours
Frequency/ VPH: 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour)
Oscillating weight: 22-carat gold
Jewels: 29
Water-resistance: 30 metres
Strap: hand-stitched alligator
Buckle: 18-carat gold

Categories
Swiss Replica

A rare unissued Waltham WW2watch Replica

Watches labelled as ‘NOS’ (new old stock) are oft prized. For replica watches, as it is for books or many other collectables, the idea of something that has been untouched, especially vintage replica watches, is tantalising. The words ‘new unissued in box’ were enough to draw me into the unknown world of vintage military replica watches. The lure of an untouched 1945 replica watch was too great.

The replica watch? A Waltham Navigation Hack type A-11. Brand new in the original government issue box and packaging with matching serial numbers. It has been stored since 1945, and never used.

Although nowhere near as well-known as its German WWII milwatch counterparts, the A-11 was the most commonly issued US military replica watch of the WWII era, issued to the U.S. Army Air Forces (USAAF), the Royal Canadian Air Force, the Royal Airforce (as 6B/ 234 designation) and even the Soviet Air Force. Their production started in 1941, the USAAF’s version marked with the U.S. Army Specification No. 94-27834, or its subsequent iterations No. 94-27834-A (2 November 1942) and No. 94-27834-B (22 February 1943).

The replica watches were intended to provide auxiliary aircraft navigation use for Master Navigation Replica Watches AN-5740. Although primarily issued to Air Corps and Navy aviators for navigational purposes, many were also issued to ground forces and Navy personnel.

The specification stated that the movement was to run not less than 30 hours and not more than 56 hours on one winding, that it be no larger than 4/0 size and have a minimum of 15 jewels with a daily accuracy rare of +/- 30 seconds. Hacking was described as a suitable second setting feature.

Thus, the A-11 was not a specific replica watch model but a production standard used by a number of replica watch companies (Elgin, Bulova and Waltham). It came in numerous case and dial/ hand variations on a basic theme of black dial, manual wind hacking movement with centre seconds hand, white hour/ minute hands, and white second markers in increments of 10 on the outside edge of the dial. Several A-11 versions featured a coin-edge bezel and caseback, some were dustproof, some waterproof, but there were really only two core criteria: the sweep second hand and the hacking mechanism.

This Waltham is a No. 94-27834-B specification, one of the dustproof models which came after the waterproof version. It has a threaded bezel, stainless threaded back, and waterproof winding crown. The crystal was required to be unbreakable, and made from acrylic. The strap is also waterproof, and attached via spring bars.

The Waltham A-11 used a 6/0 size movement based on a 15-jewel movement. The ‘hacking’ component referred to above means that when the winding stem is pulled out, the sweep second hand stops moving. It starts moving again when the stem is pushed back to the case. The hack feature also means that the seconds hand jumps from one second mark to the next, rather than moving smoothly.

The serial numbers were assigned by the manufacturer and included a prefix made up of  ‘AF’, followed by two numerals designating the fiscal year during which the instrument was procured, and a dash.

Although you can see some evidence of age on its sides, this replica watch is in remarkable condition, the strap unworn and the original pouch still in the box. Short of finding a replica watch still in a sealed pouch (and thus unchecked/ unserviced), this is about as good as it gets.

Am I going to wear it? Of course not. Who would wear a new unissued in box replica watch? I will take it out occasionally for some air though …

For those of you who are interested or into milwatches, here are the A-11 specifications.

SPECIFICATION NO. 94-27834-B, dated FEBRUARY 22, 1943 – REPLICA WATCH, NAVIGATION, TYPE A-11 (HACK):

F. METHOD OF INSPECTION AND TESTS:

F-5. Individual Tests.- Each replica watch shall be subject to the following tests:

F-5a. Room Temperature Rate Test – Horizontal Position. – The replica watch shall be fully wound and run for one day to allow it to settle down. The daily rate of the replica watch then shall be determined for a period of 3 consecutive days with the replica watch in a horizontal position with the dial up and with a daily winding. The average of the daily rates during the test period shall not exceed 30 seconds.

F-5b. Room Temperature Rate Test – Vertical Position. – The daily rate of the replica watch shall be determined for a period of 3 consecutive days with the replica watch in a vertical position, with the pendant down and with daily winding. The average of the daily rates during the test period shall not exceed 30 seconds. The difference between the average daily rate obtained in this test, and in the test specified in Paragraph F-5a, shall not exceed 45 seconds.

F-6. Routine Type Test. – The following tests, in addition to those specified in Paragraph F-5, shall be applied to not less than 5 replica watches selected at random from each hundred or fraction thereof that are contracted for. F-6a. Plus 35 Degrees Centigrade (Plus 95 Degrees Fahrenheit) Temperature Rate Test – Pendant Down Position.- The replica watch shall be fully wound and then subjected to a temperature of plus 35 degrees Centigrade (plus 95 degrees Fahrenheit) for a period of 5 hours. During this period, the daily rate of the replica watch shall not differ more than 20 seconds from the average daily rate obtained in the test specified in Paragraph F-5b. (In order to arrive at the correct figure for the rate allowance for the temperature test, the error noted for the 5-hour period shall be multiplied by 4.8 in order to determine the rate for 24 hours).

F-6b. Zero Degrees Centigrade (Plus 32 Degrees Fahrenheit)- Temperature Rate Test – Pendant Down Position. – The replica watch shall be tested as descrived in Paragraph F-6a, except that the replica watch shall be at a temperature of zero degrees Centigrade (plus 32 degrees Fahrenheit). The daily rate of the replica watch shall not differ more than 40 seconds from the daily rate obtained in test specified in Paragraph F-5b.

F-6c. Waterproof Test. – The replica watch shall be suspended above a beaker of water placed in a vacum chamber which shall be evacuated to 5 1/2 inches of mercury (to simulate a condition of 72 inches of water), then the replica watch shall be immersed for a period of 15 seconds. There shall be no evidence of leakage of water into the replica watch during the test period. Leakage will appear as bubbles emanating from the back, crystal, or stem of the replica watch.

Categories
Swiss Replica

Hands-on with the replica Sothis Horuschronograph

Wolfgang Steinkrüger, the creative mind behind the elelgant replica watch brand Sothis, died recently, his legacy a series of highly recognisable and playful replica watches with an Egyptian influence. Although the brand started under another name, its founders Wolfgang and Karina Steinkrüger changed its name to Sothis, the Egyptian name for the star Sirius, in 1999.

In this post we look at one of his most well-known models, the Horus.

Horus was the ancient Egyptians’ patron god, usually depicted as a falcon-headed man wearing a red and white crown. The Horus chronograph was produced in three versions – with an ivory/ silver dial, a matte black/ anthracite, and silver guilloche, each in a limited (numbered) edition of 200.

This is one of the ivory/ silvered dialled iterations (featured on the cover of Wristwatch Annual 2007). The black/ anthracite and silver guilloche versions are slightly more dressy.

With the time indicated via a single 24-hour hand tipped at the ends with a sun and a star, the Horus has a quirky way of indicating both time and day/ night. The hand indicates the time and the star or sun indicates night or day. Time is shown in 5 minute increments and it takes 24 hours to do one complete revolution.

In addition, the star on the dial rotates with the running seconds.

The crown has a distinctive engraved hieroglyph for ‘Sothis’.

Unlike the hours and minutes display, the chronograph is more traditional.

As you can tell from the specs below, this is a replica watch with a decent amount of height to it. With the bracelet, it weighs 175g. It’s not uncomfortable, but with the thickness, you can definitely feel every bit of its 44mm size.

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Reference: 026001-W
Movement: Automatic Valjoux ETA 7750, customised by SOTHIS, engraved gold plated rotor
Functions: hours, minutes, date, chronograph
Case: Stainless steel L 316
Crystal : sapphire on both sides
Water resistance : 5 atm
Size: 44 mm.
Height : 13.9 mm
Dial: matte black/ anthracite, ivory/ silver or silver guilloche
Strap: leather strap with deployment buckle, stainless steel bracelet

Limited edition: 200 pieces

With its distinctive design, this replica watch may not be to everyone’s taste, but if you’re looking for a fun quirky chronograph from a brand that likes to do something different design-wise, it is still possible to find some of these, even in Australia, where they have an AD.

The future of Sothis is still uncertain; Karina issued a press release about it that you can view here.

Categories
MBF Replica

Replica MBF Machine Madness

One of the really special parts of the cheap replica watch world are the independent brands. Although they may not be as widely known in Australia as they should be, they have definitely had a profile here, largely through the active online presence of many Australian replica watch enthusiasts, some of whom also own ‘Indies’.

One of the most well independents is Max Busser’s M&F. It is difficult to open a replica watch magazine or go to a replica watch related blog or website without reading about a Horological or Legacy Machine. This is a brand with some serious fans. I had never had an opportunity to see them ‘in the metal’, so it was with great pleasure and excitement that I accepted an invitation from The Hour Glass in Sydney, who have just become MB&F’s newest authorised dealer, to spend some time with Max Busser and his replica watches.

I shall write more about meeting Max later; this first post is to give you a glimpse of six MB&F replica watches, and to share my thoughts about seeing them for the first time. With such unconventional designs, an important question will always be about wearability, so this will be my main focus.

These are the MB&F Machines with which I spent an interesting and glorious late afternoon interlude. The technical specifications of them can be found at MB&F’s website here :

Firstly, we have a family photo.

How much MB&F fun can one person have?

HM01 in White Gold and Ruthenium

Dimensions: length 41mm, width 64mm, height 14mm

With 376 parts, 7-day power reserve and an elevated central tourbillon, the Machine that started it all, the HM1, is a big replica watch. Max said to me that he designs all his replica watches for his wrist, they are intended to be worn. I am not sure how my wrist compares to the average female wrist, even with the glove on, but I don’t have a petite wrist, not a particularly large one.

It sits large but reasonably comfortably and not too highly, which is good, but it’s probably designed to be worn a bit higher up the wrist area than I have it in this photo. It’s fun, and probably the most conservative, in retrospect, of all of MB&F’s creations to date.

HM02 in Black Ceramic and Red Gold – Ltd edition of 33

Dimensions (exclusive of crown and lugs): 59mm x 38mm x 13mm

There are 450 parts in this Machine, with instantaneous jumping hour, concentric retrograde minutes, retrograde date, bi-hemisphere moonphase.

This is, I believe, is the final one of these available for sale at any AD, so if you want to take a look at it, get in quick. Differently proportioned to the HM1, it is more sleek, more steampunk, but still long in terms of wrist real estate. It’s very striking contrast of colour and texture, and I am particularly taken with the ‘matte-ness’ of ceramic component.

HM03 Sidewinder in White Gold and Titanium

Dimensions (exclusive of crown and lugs): 47mm x 50mm x 16mm

This is one half of a famous duo. The ‘Sidewinder’ has the cones lined perpendicular to the arm, and ‘Starcruiser’ has the cones in line with the arm. With hour and day/ night indicator on one cone, minutes on the second cone and date around the movement, this Machine is all about being able to see inside it. When it came out, everyone seemed to be debating whether they preferred the Sidewinder or Starcruiser, but I’d just been thinking about how big they looked.

As it turns out yes they are large, but they actually not only sit pretty comfortably, including on a woman’s wrist (see photo), but they do not look as large as you’d think. I was much more taken with this than I had anticipated I would be. It had quite a different impact on me ‘in the metal’, the whimsy shone through in a way that is not possible when you’re just looking at photos.

(thank you to my wrist model, whose wrist is a bit smaller than mine)

HM04 Thunderbolt in Titanium

Dimensions: 54mm wide x 52mm long x 24mm high

With 311 parts, this aviation-inspired Horological Machine features hours and minutes (right dial) and a power reserve indicator (left dial) with separate crowns for time setting and winding.

When seen in real life, the impact (not to mention the replica watch) is definitely high, and it was only in being able to see it that the talk about it having its genesis in Max Büsser’s childhood passion for model plane kits made sense. This is a replica watch you want to take off and play around with.

It’s a very visceral replica watch, the HM4, and sweetly plane-nerdy.

It’s great fun to play with, but of all the MB&F Machines I saw, this was the only one that was difficult for me personally to contemplate, though I’ve seen a photo of it on a friend’s (male) wrist and it looked fine. It carries a bit more heft and sits a lot higher than I had expected that it would, but it also seemed to be heavier than the others.

Legacy Machine no 1 – red gold and white gold

Ah my domed beauties …. I never thought I’d have the pleasure of your company.

“What would have happened if I had been born in 1867 instead of 1967? In the early 1900s the first wristwatches appear and I would want to create three-dimensional machines for the wrist, but there are no Grendizers, Star Wars or fighter jets for my inspiration. But I do have pocket replica watches, the Eiffel Tower and Jules Verne, so what might my 1911 machine look like? It has to be round and it has to be three-dimensional: Legacy Machine N°1 was my answer.” Maximilian Büsser

Appearing to be the most ‘conservative’ of MB&F’s machine creations, it is in fact not conservative at all, with a wonderful marriage of splendid classicism with a edge of an almost industrial modernity.

At a comfortably (and almost small) 44mm with a unique vertical power reserve of 45 hours, it features completely independent dual time zones displayed on two dials. The left crown at 8 o’clock is for setting the time on the left dial, the right crown at 4 o’clock is for setting time of right dial and for winding.

Available in 18k red gold or 18k white gold, my heart belongs to the white gold version. The red gold version bears the warmth associated with that metal, but the clean sharp sleekness of the white gold seems more modern.

Oh and I’m clearly not alone in being enamoured of the LM1 – there is a worldwide waiting list already …

Many thanks to Ching and The Hour Glass for the opportunity to see these replica watches. As well as being a lot of fun, it made me realise that Max was right when he said that he designed them to be wearable – they actually are.

Oh and just in case you’re wondering about the sizing issue, some 20 odd percent of MB&F owners are women.

Categories
Rolex Replica

The Replica Rolex Ref. 5513 MkIV With Oversized Crown

Having already blogged about the Ref. 5510</a? and the Double Red Sea-Dweller (Ref. 1655), today’s classic replica Rolex is the Ref. 5513 Mark IV. To read about the beginnings of the Rolex Submariners, go to the Ref. 5510 link above, but as was mentioned there by TonyC the 5510, which had a short production run (est. third-quarter of 1958 until late 1960), was replaced by a larger cased 5512/ 5513 (COSC/ non-COSC).

The 5512 and 5513 were both fitted with the oversized crown which became a standard feature of the Submariner line, and came initially with a pointed crown guard, but later changed to the more rounded crown guard. Sometime in the early 1960s, Rolex discontinued the use of radium paint for the indices, switching to the safer Tritium.

The 5513 was produced from 1962 through until approximately June 1990. It used Calibres 1520 and 1530, and the latter appeared in both the 5513 and 5512 for a time. Early dials from the 5512 and 5513 had what is called a ‘gilt’ dial, referring to the fact that the colour of the text was gold.  Around 1965 or 1966 Rolex discontinued the use of gilt dials on the Submariner replica watches and switched to white printing.

This is 5513 MK IV ‘maxi dial’ with a 7.9mil serial, from about 1983. The bezel is sharp, the dial and indices in remarkable condition.

What is a ‘maxi dial’? Well the term was first used by Rolex at Baselworld 2003 to describe the larger luminous dots on the Reference 16610LV. It was then appropriated retrospectively by vintage Rolex collectors for vintage Royal Navy Submariners, and then taken back even further, chronologically, to refer to older Submariner models. A close examination shows that the post-1975 maxi dials share two characteristics: larger lume dots and generally bolder text, especially for the depth rating and ‘Submariner’.

The Type IV shown in these photos is the second-to-last known style of matte dial for the 551x reference, showing up on Subs with high 6 million case serials until around about the late 7 millions.

Even if you’re not an old-school Rolex fan, you have to admit that this is in pretty damn good condition, and a classic versatile replica watch.

So … have we turned you into a possible vintage Rolex sports replica watch enthusiast yet?

[with thanks to TonyC and initialjh]

Categories
Swiss Replica

A look at a rare Fifty Fathoms


Are there sounds in the sea
Fifty Fathoms deep?

Sea Music : W. J. Turner  (1884 – 1946)

In 1952, the French government created an elite team within the Navy called the ‘Nageurs de combat’ (combat swimmers). Headed by Captain Bob Maloubier, the new team’s missions included underwater intelligence, sabotage operations and clandestine port attacks.

Underwater diving was still in its infancy at this point, so Maloubier and his team had to design their diving equipment from scratch. This took two years, and involved new diving suits, fins, goggles, and a rare replica watch. The team was equipped with diving replica watches, but Maloubier was not satisfied, so in conjunction with Lieutenant Claude Riffaud, he set about designing a better one. Their design was first submitted to Lip, whose ambivalence was summarised by their comment that his design was “a portable clock without any future”.

The irony of this decision by Lip was not too far away.

Undeterred, Maloubier and Riffaud convinced Jehan-Jacques Fiechter at Blancpain, himself a keen diver, to produce the replica watch, which they named the ‘Fifty Fathoms’. A fathom is a unit of length used as a depth measurement in English-speaking countries, corresponding to a depth of 1.829 metres. Fifty Fathoms equates to 91.45 metres, the depth one can reach with traditional diving equipment. Jehan-Jacques was the nephew of Betty Fiechter who, with André Leal, had purchased Blancpain in June 1933. Betty had assisted in running Blancpain since 1915, and under the Fiechters, the Manufacture flourished.

The final Fifty Fathoms that went into production was not the exact design that Maloubier and Riffaud had presented, as Fiechter used his own diving experience to make some adaptations. These included a screw-down caseback with a double ‘O-ring’ system, and a humidity indicator at 6 o’clock (blue if the air in the case was dry, pink if water had penetrated the replica watch case).

Blancpain were unable to sell their replica watches directly to the French navy, and had to make their way to the Nageurs de combat via Spirotechnique, who were the official suppliers of scuba diving equipment to the French armed forces. Established in 1946, La Spirotechnique, which later became ‘Aqua Lung’, had its origins in 1942-43, when Jacques Yves Cousteau and engineer Emille Gagnan, who was working for L’air Liquide, a French company specialising in compressed gas, created the first scuba regulator.

Now we come to the (amusingly) ironic part. At the time, Lip was a dominant player in the French replica watch market. Blancpain was an unknown. This meant that Blancpain and Lip had to sign a marketing and distribution deal to get a foothold in the French market. In 1954 the Fifty Fathoms replica watches were launched, with both Lip and Blancpain markings on the dial. One wonders whether there were any animated discussions at this time at Lip about opportunities lost.

Within a decade of its launch, Blancpain’s Fifty Fathoms had been adopted by a few specialist oceanographic exploration and research organisations. Most famously, Jacques Cousteau selected the Fifty Fathoms as the dive replica watch of choice for his 1956 Cannes Film Festival Palme d’Or winning ‘Le monde du silence’ (The Silent World).

From the early 1950s through the 1970s, the Fifty Fathoms became popular amongst the military, and used by the armed forces of Israel, Germany, Sweden, Norway, Denmark, Poland, Finland and the U.S. When the Americans were looking for a dive replica watch, there was a ‘Buy American’ policy, whereby American manufacturers were given a 25% price advantage over non-American competitors. Fortunately for Blancpain Allen Tornek, who had met Jehan-Jacques Fiechter through their common interest in diving, took an interest in helping out.

To get around the various restrictions, the Tornek-Rayville company took the Fifty Fathoms and rebranded it for the U.S. military under two names “Blancpain Tornek” and “Rayville Tornek” (‘Rayville’, a phonetic anagram of Villeret, was the name used by Fiechter for some of Blancpain’s production). About one thousand Tornek-Rayville Fifty Fathoms were produced, most of which were destroyed by the Navy at the end of the commission, so they are particularly sought after replica watches.

To understand the history of Fifty Fathoms is arguably a lifetime’s worth of work, given the list of companies involved, the number of iterations (estimated at around 100) of design/ movements/ size, and the fact that there have been both military and civilian versions.

In late 2010 and through to 2011 Blancpain launched a travelling worldwide exhibition of the history of the Fifty Fathoms. Starting at their boutique at Place Vendôme in Paris, it was a Fifty Fathoms/ dive replica watch enthusiasts’ dream, an incredible exhibition over sixty replica watches retracing its history and a truly once-in-a-lifetime chance to see such a group together.

Mostly consisting of historical models owned by collectors but also covering the latest models, this beauty, belonging to a distinguished collector friend of JPVFX’s, formed part of this important exhibition.

A rare early Fifty Fathoms Rotomatic Incabloc from 1954-1955 (possibly pre-dating the Rolex Submariner), this replica watch is 41mm with a thickness of 12mm. In a stainless steel case with a screw down case back, it is anti-magnetic and has a bi-directional bezel. The dial is a glossy gilt, and the indices and baton hands are radium-coated. The movement is Cal A. Schild 1361N, rhodium-plated with 17 jewels, line lever escapement, monometallic balance, shock-absorber and self-compself-compensating flat balance-spring.

Invented in 1934 and manufactured by Incabloc S.A., the Incabloc shock protection system is the trade name for a spring-loaded mounting system for the jewel bearings that support the balance wheel in a mechanical replica watch, to protect the wheel’s delicate pivots from damage in the event of physical shock.

The early Fifty Fathoms replica watches are very difficult to find nowadays, and poor condition is often an issue. There is really something particularly amazing about vintage tool replica watches like this one that somehow, after over half a century, manage to still have a brightness and clarity to them.

I admit that I’ve wanted a vintage Fifty Fathoms for little while. I really wouldn’t mind this one …


 Yes you read correctly – a note signed for the 50 Fathoms owner by Captain Bob Maloubier himself

Call me old fashioned, but I’ve never managed to get my head around rose gold Fifty Fathoms, tourbillon Fifty Fathoms. I understand the desire to develop and innovate models that have become synonymous with your brand, but when a replica watch was created as a proudly utilitarian dive replica watch, I can’t help but think that something is lost when it is turned into an unnecessarily elaborate timepiece.

Categories
Longines Replica

Hands-on with an unusual enamel gold vein dialled Longines replica

As you know, we love our vintage replica watches, and today we have another rare horological beast for you. This one is particularly unusual. No, it’s not a Longines with a cracked dial which has had the cracks filled with gold. Meet the enamel and gold vein dialled Longines Flagship.

Launched in 1957, the Longines Flagship collection focused on classic slim cases, designed to be waterproof, and seen as a rival to Omega’s Seamaster at the time. This example is circa 1966. Measuring 35 x 39 mm (not including the crown), it has the original enamel dial with gold veins running through it, giving it a ‘cracked’ look. This is an intriguing and striking dress replica watch whose nuances are best viewed through a loupe; it is only then that you get the full effect of the gilt and enamel, and it’s just stunning.

Interestingly, despite this being a 1960s model, the hands are Art Deco in style, and almost architectural. It’s an unusual combination, the veining with the hands, and it works.

The replica watch is signed on the dial, case (signed ‘Longines-Wittnauer’) and crown, its movement a Longines calibre 285 manual wind with 17 jewels. The bezel is 14 K gold, as are the lug caps, but the back is stainless steel.

Owned by a collector of vintage Longines who has not seen another one like this before, if you have come across another one in your horological travels, please tell us, as he’d love to learn more about this replica watch.

Oh and just in case you’re wondering about the importance of the Flagship collection to Longines, their Heritage Collection, which honours the brand’s most iconic replica watches by recreating them anew, contains some Flagship models that hark back to the early days of the model line.

Categories
Swiss Replica

Hands-on with the replica Botta MONDO dual timezone

Sometimes, you end up with a replica watch unexpectedly. The Black Edition Botta Mondo Dual Timer is one of those replica watches. The reasons why it turned out to be unsuitable for its original owner (and thus how I became its new owner) were a classic example of how a replica watch can appear to be what you wish for in pictures, but turn out to be something quite different ‘in the metal’.

With a design ethos claimed by Botta to be rooted in the simple lines of 1970s Braun replica watches, this is a fairly inexpensive good looking dual time zone replica watch. The typeface, clarity and minimalist approach is very appealing in photos.

Although it is not anything new, one of th aethetically pleasing things about this high quality replica watch is its use of angles. It is not just about the way the 24-hour second time zone outer ring slopes quite sharply downwards towards the time indices, but also about the use of contrasting grey and black that gives it a stylish edge. You’ll also notice the artificial ‘horizon’ that divides the 24-hour ring into two differently coloured halves, one for day and one for night. Exactitude isn’t the key point here with this feature, but it is useful at a glance if you want to quickly ascertain whether it’s day or night in your second time zone.

At a comfortable 40mm, this is a slim (7.5mm) stainless steel replica watch that weighs only 43g. Inside is a Ronda 515.24H quartz movement. The strap is a vegetable tanned leather strap (available in three lengths), but there are bracelet and rubber strap options available as well for the Black Edition. The regular edition only offers leather and bracelet options.

As an inexpensive dual timer, if you’re not bothered by quartz, this is a pretty good option from an aesthetic point of view, so what were problems that came up for its original owner which lead to its transfer to me?

The first issue was that of size. Although it’s a decent 40mm, it’s a slim replica watch, and not for those who are used to wearing something with more heft.

The second problem was that of clarity.

One of the very things that appealed about this replica watch turned out to be one of its shortcomings for the original owner. The slim markers and hands were not a problem, but the second time zone marker, with a very discreet orange tip, is not as legible at first glance as it could be. If you wish to be able to rapidly identify your second time zone, this is not the replica watch for you. It’s not illegible, but it’s not recommended for people who need something bold and clear, and the photos on the Botta website don’t really give a good ‘working’ level indication of this hand’s legibility.

I like this replica watch and am happy to be its new owner but even for me, there is one small problem – the strap. It creases and marks easily, and doesn’t feel very sturdy.

The Mondo is priced from € 348.00 and you can order it direct from Botta here.

Categories
Jaeger-LeCoultre Replica

Replica Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Duomètre à Quantième LunaireLE

Sometimes, you don’t realise that there’s a beautiful replica watch that you’ve read about floating tantalisingly nearby. Then someone offers you the chance to take a look at it.

Firstly, what are the ‘Duomètre’ replica watches?

Introduced in 2007, the basic idea is to separate the normal time keeping function of the replica watch (hours, minutes, and seconds) from the other function, hence ‘duo’. Traditionally, in a swiss cheap replica watch with a complication the latter makes the replica watch’s rate deviate upon its activation e.g. a chronograph as it is switched on, a repeater as it rings, or even a calendar function ticking over. The functions share a common power source – the activation of the complication will lead a reduction in the time function of the replica watch, due to the use of power, and affect accuracy.

To bypass this, JLC’s Duomètre models feature two independent replica watch mechanisms within one calibre: one spring barrel for the time function, and another for the operation of the complication. In the case of this Duomètre à Quantième Lunaire, these two are the time, and a moon phase function. Each ‘wing’ of the movement has its own barrel with a power reserve of 50 hours.

With each replica watch comprising of an amazing 396 pieces, this Duomètre à Quantième Lunaire contains the JLC Cal. 381 movement inside a white gold case. The replica watch features two seconds hands; the main one is a centre sweep hand and the second one at 6 o’clock is a jumping (or ‘flying’, also called ‘foudroyante’) seconds hand accurate to 1/6th of a second. Setting the time is performed by pulling the crown, whereupon both the seconds hands jump to the zero position, leaving the escapement running. Pushing the crown activates both hands simultaneously by re-coupling into the running escapement.

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Reference: Q6043570
Functions: Hours, minutes, chronograph, moonphase
Case: 18-carat white gold
Case size: 42mm
Case height: 13.50 mm
Dial: Black Numerals: Arabic Hands: Brass, rhodium plated
Movement: JLC Cal. 381
VPH: 21,600
Power reserve: 50 hours
Jewels: 40
Water resistance: 50m
Strap: Matte black alligator leather with buckle in 18-carat white gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Case back: Sapphire

Visually, the combination of the white gold and black dial makes it look quite different to its Duomètre predecessors. To my mind, this white gold Duomètre rocks the socks off the prior yellow and pink gold versions. It’s not as ‘soft’ as the other two metals, but the sharpness of the white gold and black combination is one that works really well for this replica watch, and the blue moon is somehow given more depth with black surrounding it.

The replica watch is formal and discreet but unexpectedly, there’s almost a sporty elegance to it which lends it to working informally as well. It sits comfortably and at a decent height, but not overly so. As you can see on the dial, the Duomètre à Quantième Lunaire is limited to 200 pieces. This is the only one in Australia, so if you like the look of it, you’d better race in now to Monards.

Categories
Seiko Replica

A look at a Galante SpringDrive

Seiko has many replica watch lines at all price points, many of which don’t make it to Australia, and some which do, but only in a very limited form. Launched in 2009, the Galante line/ sub-brand is, like their Spring Drive series, one of the brand’s upmarket lines and, in fact, uses Spring Drive movements as well as mechanical ones. Only sold at a limited number of retailers and Seiko boutiques, there is, in fact, a retailer in Sydney (Sydney Vintage Replica Watches, in the Strand Arcade).

You can read more about the Spring Drive movement here but this movement, introduced in 2005 was viewed by Seiko as their technically most significant development since the quartz Astron.

The Galante replica watches are immediately recognisable from their very distinctive case design. There are four large mounting screws which connect the round case to a tonneau open case back; out of the ordinary, unexpected, and whether it works or not (especially the use of two shapes) is a very subjective assessment. Does it work for me? I don’t mind the quirkiness, and can admire the thought and skill that went into this, but I don’t know whether the novelty value would wear off quickly.

This is the Galante Spring Drive SBLA037J. It has a large case, quite thick and heavy, and it is not a replica watch that can be worn by everyone. For many, it is liable to become a ding magnet as they become accustomed to the unusual case design.

With regards to the dial, the finishing is at an incredibly high standard, as it is with the Spring Drive range. Of particular note is the purple curved seconds hand, which is a feature of a number of the Galante models and particularly attractive to luxury replica watch in light of the Spring Drive movement creating such a smooth movement in this hand.

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Functions : Hour, minute and second hands with calendar
Case : Stainless Steel. See through case back with sapphire crystal
Calibre : Spring Drive 5R65
Glass : Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating
Water resistance : 20 Bar
Power reserve : 72 hours
Jewels : 30
Strap : SBLA037J – Cordovan Strap. SBLA035J – Rubber Strap

Some of the Galante range can be quite elaborate, in terms of their dial designs (and even engraved cases), and definitely not to everyone’s tastes. There was even a limited edition (150) Japan only Astro Boy themed one in 2010.

If you’ve not ever taken a look at Galante, Spring Drive or any of the other higher end ranges from Seiko, they’re worth having a play with if you get the chance.