Categories
Zenith Replica

BASELWORLD 2013 : Replcia Zenith’s Christoph ColombHurricane

ZenithColombHurricane1

Baselworld releases often have the cheap replica watch industry equivalent of a restaurant’s ‘soft opening’ up to months before the actual fair, and so it was at the end of January 2013 in Geneva when I visited Zenith’s temporary digs and saw one of this year’s official Basel releases, the Christoph Colomb Hurricane.

The very distinctive Christoph Colomb complications fall under Zenith’s ‘Acaemy’ collection, and have the large fishbowl like sapphire crystal protrusion at 6 o’clock which worries anyone who sees the replica watch (potential ding magnet). Its purpose, however, is not just to be quirky – Zenith have suspended the escapement and balance in a cage so that it looks like a floating mechanical ball, to try and increase the preciseness of time measurement – no matter how the wearer moves his or her wrist, you will see that the balance will always move back to a horizontal position – it is called a ‘cardanic suspension’, or ‘gimbal’.

As well as the gimbal, the Hurricane also utilises a chain-and-fusée, visible underneath the main hour and minutes subdial, to control variations and stabilise force as the mainspring unwinds. Although it seems to be popping up here and there of late, a chain-and-fusée is a rare beast and technical feat; and it took Zenith some two years to get it right for the Hurricane. The chain is made of 585 components and is 18cm long. The movement inside it is the manual wind El Primero 8805, with a fifty hour power reserve.

The hours and minutes are at 12 o’clock, small seconds at 9 o’clock, and power reserve indicator at 3 o’clock. The hour markers are black lacquer and the hands blued steel. The 45 mm rose gold case has an open case back for the owner’s viewing pleasure.

Categories
Swiss Replica

HANDS-ON with Badollet’s Ivresse at the Geneva Time Exhibition 2013 Replica

Ivresse2

A while ago I wrote about the Badollet Ivresse, a fascinating curved cheap replica watch (with a more gentle curve than Eva Leube’s Ari) with such a pared back sense of elegant simplicity that not only is the tourbillon not visible from the front, but the brand is not even mentioned on the dial, but the caseback.

You can read details about it on the link above, but there’s nothing like handling a replica watch ‘in the metal’, so it was with great interest that I went to visit Badollet at the Geneva Time Exhibition 2013, to see the Ivresse and to take some live photos.

As I wrote before, this is a big replica watch – 53.80mm in length, 30mm wide and 12.30mm thick in its platinum case. What I did not realise, was that 53.80mm is not as it seems.

The curvature of the replica watch, which fitted comfortably over my wrist, takes away a lot of the size factor. It simply does not appear to be that big, nor does it seem too big to wear. After all, replica watches are for wearing, and reading about large dimensions can scare people off considering a replica watch. Having now tried this on, I can tell you that it is in fact very wearable both length and height wise.

Philippe Dubois – CEO of Badollet

This may be a simple discreet looking replica watch from a design perspective, but in many ways it is a very bold one because of this. The case design stands out, but so does the purity of the dial. So in the end, did the reality match my expectations? Yes.

Categories
Swiss Replica

Two affordable Full Calendar Replica Watches from Montblanc and Baume Mercier

The last days of the SIHH turned out rather strange for me, as I was down with a severe flu, and unable to publish anything about the new timepieces. In the coming weeks I’ll publish the most outstanding, and remarkable pieces. I’ve had time to do some more hands-on photos, and the reviews will follow over the next weeks. 

One of the remarkable introductions, or actually two introductions, came from Montblanc and Baume & Mercier. These two brands, both part of the Richemont Group, each launched a very nice automatic timepiece with a full calendar. As the dial layout already gives away, both seem to be equipped with the same calendar module. Day and month are shown through a rectangle aperture, that is placed just below the brand’s name. The date is indicated as so-called pointer date, meaning the long hand points to the date that is printed on the dial’s perimeter. And as a little extra, both replica watches feature a moon phase indication. Both replica watches are priced below $ 5,000 USD and feature a complete calendar and moon phase.

The Montblanc Star Quantième Complet (complete calendar in English) sports the typical Montblanc style that we can recognize in more models, including in the new Nicolas Rieussec Rising Hours. The Montblanc comes in either red gold or stainless steel and the case measures 42 mm in diameter.

On a Full Calendar replica watch the date has to be adjusted for every month with less then 31 days. With an Annual Calendar you just have to adjust the date for the month February. Only a Perpetual Calendar doesn’t need a bi-monthly or yearly adjustment.

Baume & Mercier found inspiration in their own history for the Clifton Complete Calendar Moon Phase as it features a lovely retro 1950’s style. It’s an addition to the previously released Clifton that we told you about here. The B&M is available in stainless steel only, with two dial colors, being silver/white or blue. As you could see in that previous Clifton artcile, Baume & Mercier invested in some great mood photos.

Judging from the dial layout, both replica watches feature the exact same movement and/or calendar module. The stainless steel models are both priced just below $5k USD. Great replica watches, great value for money, so the choice for either of these two boils down to your personal taste.

More info through the Montblanc website here or the Baume & Mercier website here.

Categories
A. Lange & Söhne Replica

Power-up! The A Lange Sohne 31 Replica Watch

Lange 31

This is the third and final Lange post from an extended Lange afternoon in Melbourne recently. The first post was an overview of the brand’s arrival in Australia, the second about my favourite, the Zeitwerk, and this final post will be about the rather astonishing replica Lange 31.

One of the challenges in the design of a mechanical wristwatch is its power reserve – the challenge of storing and then ‘returning’ energy to the replica watch’s going train in a consistent and uniform way, not to mention how to get a decent power reserve. Especially in replica watches with a large power reserve, the torque of the often multiple mainsprings of greater dimensions may fluctuate considerably, negatively impacting on the rate accuracy.

A. Lange & Söhne decided to re-examine the power reserve, and came up with the Lange 31, the world’s first mechanical wristwatch with a power reserve of 31 days and a patented constant-force escapement that powers the going train with constant torque delivery. The amount of energy needed to keep the replica watch running for a month is transferred to the movement with a winding key and stored in a twin mainspring barrel.

The inscription “Monats-Werk” indicates the power reserve status.

The caseback reveals something not usually in wristwatches – a key winding mechanism that was designed for this replica watch. What a winding key allows is what is called a larger winding transmission ratio. This means that fewer ‘winds’ are required. How is this done? A key (which unfortunately we did not get the opportunity to see) is inserted through an aperture in the sapphire caseback.

Three seals between the winding mechanism and the case protect the replica watch against water up to 3 bars. To prevent accidental over tightening of the mainsprings, the key has a torque limiter, which means that any attempt to turn the key beyond the point where the mainspring is fully wound disengages the teeth of the wheels inside the key.

So what is inside to keep this replica watch running for 31 days? The Cal. L034.1 manufacture movement, which has a diameter of 37.3mm and a height of 9.6mm. The energy storage function is handled by the large twin mainspring which contain the two mainsprings, each of which is 1,850mm long, which is five to ten times as long as the springs of conventional mechanical wristwatches.

As far as ‘wow’ factors go, this Lange has it in spades. It has Lange’s renowned levels of finishing, but on top of that, the Lange 31 is almost a bit overwhelming when you see it for the first time. This is a large replica watch with a very large presence. It has a diameter of 45.9mm and is 15.8mm high. As if its physical size weren’t enough, it weighs 230g (about half a pound) in its platinum case (it is also available, as is in these photos, in pink gold). Why is it so large? Simply because it is necessary – a certain amount of space is required for the movement.

This is not a replica watch you’ll get many opportunities to see, so if the chance presents itself, grab it.

Categories
Omega Replica

Replica Omega’s sleek and modern PlanetOcean

Omega Seamaster PO lume

With all the recent fuss about replica Omega’s Seamaster Planet Ocean 600M ‘SKYFALL’ LE, we thought that we’d go ‘back to basics’, in a manner of speaking. The Seamaster story goes back to 1948, when Omega launched a replica watch with a water-resistant case with ‘Seamaster’ on the dial, but it wasn’t until 1962 that what has become a modern diving classic took off, with the introduction of the Seamaster 300. This was the first Seamaster that you could dive with, to a maximum of 300 metres below sea level, and it has been formative in establishing the brand’s reputation for solid professional dive replica watches.

A little while back I took a look at one of the 2011 Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean releases. They came in a number of variations, including three-hand models in 42mm or 45.5mm versions, and a chronograph available only in 45.5mm. This post is about the stainless steel 42mm version with the calibre 8500, a co-axial movement with 39 jewels, 25,200 VPH and a 60 hour power reserve.

Omega Planet Ocean

Water resistant to 600m (2000ft), there is a manual Helium escape valve at 10 o’clock, and a screw-in crown on the right. The bezel is unidirectional bezel

The crystal is domed scratch-resistant sapphire with anti-reflective treatment on both sides. The caseback is transparent, which makes it good to look at for desk divers and attractive to a wide audience, but from the point of view of it being essentially a tool replica watch, one could ask why.

Omega Planet Ocean caseback

So what’s there to like about this replica watch? Above all it’s a legible, functional dive replica watch. The dial is a wonderful deep matte black, the numerals applied polished steel – very bright and clear. The hour markers and hands have a luminescent fill, as do the polished steel hour, minute and seconds hands, and the 12 o’clock dot on the rotating bezel.

Omega Planet Ocean

It’s a beautiful clean looking tool replica watch but it also seems to have a slightly dressy edge to it as well, perhaps due in part to the applied Omega logo and numbers. Even the date numerals are raised, which just gives it that extra bit of appealing detail.

I seem to have a ‘thing’ for matte ceramic bezels of late, and this is no exception. It’s an understated dark grey ceramic fill with big clear numbers and markers, and just plain good looking.

Omega Seamaster PO

As mentioned at the outset, there are two sizes of this Planet Ocean, supposedly to appeal to a larger number of people i.e. those with a Big Replica Watch fetish, and the rest of us. I am not quite sure I completely understand this; 42mm is quite respectable enough a size for most people. 45.5mm? That’s too big for most wrists. As it is the 42mm is reasonably thick and carries a decent bit of weight to it in its bracelet version. However, I do have a niggling feeling that where there are two sizes available for a replica watch, there is a strong likelihood that most will go towards the larger option

There are a number of different colour and bracelet/ strap combinations available. You can find more information about them at Omega’s website.

Categories
Girard-Perregaux Replica

Girard-Perregaux 1966 Minute Repeater, Annual Calendar and Equation of Time

Girard-Perregaux increased the size of the 1966 Annual Calendar and EOT by 2 millimeters and added a Minute Repeater. The result is the new GP 1966 Minute Repeater, Annual Calendar and Equation of Time that measures a decent 42 mm in diameter.

When the GP 1966 Annual Calendar and EOT was introduced in 2009 it was my favorite new release of the SIHH 2009. Especially the pink gold version with slate grey sunray-brushed dial that was introduced last year has become one of my favorite timepieces. What is so phenomanal is that Girard-Perregaux managed to make an unbalanced dial look incredibly balanced and that’s probably part of the charm of the GP 1966 collection.

Girard-Perregaux 1966 Minute Repeater Annual Calendar EOT

This GP 1966 Minute Repeater, Annual Calendar and Equation of Time is limited to 15 pieces and comes at a price of $287,000 USD. Just wished they would come up with a shorter name…

The silvered sunburst dial is the background of the time, calendar and EOT indications. Around the dial are solid gold applique hour-markers and black painted minute markers. The date is located roughly between the 1 and 2 o’clock position and to the left, at the 9 o’clock position is the small seconds sub dial. The month is displayed in a window opposite if the date. The Annual Calendar’s ingenious construction only requires a single adjustment of the date every year, in February, which is easily carried out through the replica watch’s crown. The hand at 4.30 indicates the equation of time.

What is Equation fo Time? It is the difference between the real solar time and the mean or civil time. The length of a solar day actually varies daily, due to the elliptical shape of the Earth’s orbit. This astronomical complication is based on a mechanism incorporating an annual disc with an elliptical cam that reproduces the Earth’s movement around the Sun.

To complete this replica watchmaking masterpiece, a Minute Repeater makes it possible to hear the striking of the hours, quarter-hours and minutes. In total this masterpiece comprises of 419 individual parts!

Girard-Perregaux 1966 Minute Repeater Annual Calendar EOT

The see-through case back reveals a peak into this very complicated mechanical wonder. The bridges look rather unusual for Girard-Perregaux, as they are skeletonized to reveal even more of the movement. A familiar design element is the balance cock, which is designed in a semi-arrow shape that recalls the Golden Bridges, the brand’s emblematic signature.

All bridges are nicely decorated with Côte de Genève and all angles have been beveled and polished by hand. The -screw-balance features small screws (variable inertia) screwed into its rim. Some of the jewels, it looks like all jewels of the gear train, are set in gold chatons.

Girard-Perregaux 1966 Minute Repeater Annual Calendar EOT

Long, long time ago, when the minute repeater was conceived, it was necessary for people to be able to hear an indication of the time during the night. An electrical light wasn’t inveted yet. Today the minute repeater has become one of the complications that is most appreciated by connoisseurs of fine replica watchmaking. In order to create the vibration that will produce a crystalline sound, the adjustment of the striking mechanism is one of the most delicate operations for a replica watchmaker, requiring nimble fingers and a particularly acute ear.

Girard-Perregaux did exhaustive acoustic research in order to optimize the Minute Repeater mechanism. This also led to three specially designed aspects of the construction of the replica watch-case:

  1. an optimal fit between the internal diameter of the case and that of the caliber, so as to achieve maximum resonance;
  2. a curved case back that increases the volume of air between the movement and the case, and enhances the sound production;
  3. and the diamond-polished bottom of the case back, which reduces acoustic interference.

Girard-Perregaux 1966 Minute Repeater Annual Calendar EOT

Technical Specifications: Girard-Perregaux 1966 Minute Repeater, Annual Calendar & Equation of Time

Case in polished pink gold, measuring 42 mm in diameter, with anti-reflective domed sapphire crystal. The case-back with sapphire crystal is closed with 6 screws and adorned with hand-engraved inscriptions.

Girard-Perregaux E09-0003 handwound mechanical movement

  • Frequency: 21,600 vib/h – 3 Hz
  • Power reserve: min.100 hours – 4 days
  • Number of components: 419 of which 48 jewels
  • Plate: rhodium-plated and circular-grained
  • Bridges: côtes de Genève, polished beveled angles
  • Striking mechanism: repeating with two facing hammers, hours, quarter-hours, minutes. Regulation of the speed of the striking-mechanism by inertia-driven governor, countersprings accessible on the bridge side, inverted minute rack; conventional gong pitches.
  • Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds, minute repeater, annual calendar, equation of time

The Girard-Perregaux 1966 Minute Repeater, Annual Calendar & Equation of Time is limited to 15 pieces and retails for $287,000 USD. More information can be found at the Girard-Perregaux website.

This article is written by Frank Geelen, executive editor for Monochrome Replica Watches.

Categories
Jaeger-LeCoultre Replica

Hands-on with replica Jaeger-LeCoultre’s ‘ReversoRouge’

Reverso Rouge

Considered to be one of the true horological icons, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Reverso is the legendary reversible replica watch created in 1931 for polo players looking to protect the glass of their replica watch. Since then, it has not only proven itself to be a stalwart of Jaeger-Lecoultre’s collections, but it has also managed to somehow reinvent itself into something contemporary but still maintaining its identity. It may have started off as a sporting replica watch, but it has become very much a dress replica watch for a lot of people, and its dial has proven to be an interesting canvas on which the Manufacture has experimented.

In 2012 the original 1931 Reverso provided the inspiration for the launch of a boutique-only limited edition, the Grande Reverso 1931 Rouge (Ref. 278856J).

In the 1930s Jaeger-LeCoultre made the Reverso available in a variety colourful dial options such as cream, brown, blue or gold in addition to the more common black or white. The Reverso Rouge is a remake of an uncommon Reverso with a red dial. For whatever reason, red was rarely chosen as a dial colour during this period.

The Grande Reverso 1931 Rouge reinterprets these red dials of the 1930s, using a deeper darker red (or as the owner of this replica watch says, it’s almost more oxblood, and I tend to agree with this) and in a considerably larger size of 46mm x 27.5mm wide by 7.27mm thick compared to the original, which was 38mm by 23mm.

Obviously, there’s also a different movement inside the 1931 Rouge – the manual wind JLC Calibre 822 which is a mere 2.94mm in height, has a power reserve of 45 hours and 21,600 VPH.

This ‘Boutique edition’ was tested for 1,000 hours, as per the Master Control collection, and this fact is noted by the “1000 Hours Control” inscription on the caseback.

The stainless steel case of the Reverso Rouge, although big, is very light due to the thinness of the replica watch. For those more accustomed to wearing more bulky replica watches, it barely registers on the wrist.

The colour of the dial’s glossy red lacquered dial looks slightly different in differing lights, and the use of bâton hands makes this a very elegant and striking replica watch.

For those looking for something a bit more distinctive than the standard black dial Reverso 1931, this is the replica watch to get. If you can find it.

Categories
Swiss Replica

HANDS ON : Replica Casio’s limited edition Royal Air ForceG-Shock

RAFGshock10

At the announcement of a collaboration between Casio and the British Royal Air Force to create a limited edition G-SHOCK Gravity Defier (GW-A1000RAF-1AER), I pondered aloud that even with a limited edition of 2,000 and a price of GBP500, it would probably sell out.

Well it has ended up selling like the proverbial hotcakes around the world, and I have found at least one authorised retailer selling it at a premium. Within a mere matter of months after its availability it was already difficult if not impossible to find. If you can find one now, grab it.

So, why has this replica watch been so popular? Well obviously I can’t speak for all, but it does appear that two of the reasons that it has appealed to some previously non-G-Shock owning replica watch enthusiasts have been because firstly, it’s quite a discreet looking G-Shock and secondly, that the collaboration between the RAF and a immensely popular line loved by many replica watch people for being a simple rugged and affordable tool replica watch was one that made sense. Plus, of course, there’s the whole ‘affordable milwatch’ aspect as well.

This solar powered G-Shock has more features than most owners will use in their lifetime, including a world timer, flight record mode, countdown timer, flyback stopwatch (1/20 of a second up to 120 minutes), thermometer, flight record mode, perpetual calendar, instant Zulu time, and it has multi-band (6) atomic timekeeping for accurate time and date syncing.

It features Casio’s ‘Triple G Resist’ structure, which is described as a case design that is constructed to withstand the shock of three forces – shock, centrifugal force, and vibration, and also has their ‘Smart Access’ system. What is ‘Smart Access’? It’s a proprietary Casio system for analogue movements that combines multiple motors with an electronic crown structure that can operate the various functions. It also allows a lot of data to be read on the analogue display and responds to pilots’ requirements for both multi-functionality and operability.

The crown has a quick-lock with a 60 degree rotation that helps to eliminate accidental operation of any functions – you press down and turn the crown to align the ‘unlock’ marker at which point the spring loaded crown pops out, but it has to be pulled out before it can be used. You select the mode you desire to set the timer, alarm or time zone. It’s also worth nothing that ‘Smart Access’ means that the replica watch’s hands operate independently, which means that when you are correcting the time via the atomic signals, for example, it will automatically re-orientate via the quickest route and you may see the hour and minute hands moving simultaneously in opposite directions.

One of the ‘military signifiers’ of the RAF model is the Zulu (UTC) time button, marked with a red symbol. To display Zulu time you first push the ‘mode’ button to get the replica watch into world time mode and then you press the ‘Zulu’ button for 3 seconds to activate the Zulu display. The second time zone is viewed only upon activation of the ‘mode’ button.

The replica watch isn’t exactly what you’d call small, but it does not sit as largely on the wrist as the measurements would indicate, and its lightness makes it easy to wear, as does the very soft and comfortable strap. The stainless steel and resin case is 51.7mm in diameter and a depth of 16.4mm. Water resistance is 200m.

The funky carbon fibre resin keeper features the RAF wings logo, which you may need to be careful about in terms of damage by rubbing it against hard surfaces. It’salso  worth noting that there are regular non RAF versions of the Gravity Defier without the commemorative box and carbon fibre keeper with logo.

The GW-A1000RAF is, especially for a G-Shock, a discreet looking replica watch in an attractive dark matte grey. The dial is three dimensional, with chunky raised indices and accents. The sub-dial markings are clear, and despite the number of functions shown on the dial, it is very legible. This is not a G-Shock that screams its existence on your wrist, it is all about no nonsense functionality. Nonetheless, but it still has a definite presence about it.

If you like analogue replica watches and G-Shocks, you will probably like this replica watch. It costs more than the average G-Shock but you are paying a premium for the RAF link and the limited edition status and clearly, people think these are worth paying for.

Categories
A. Lange & Söhne Replica

A modern design classic – theZeitwerk replica watch

Lange Zeitwerk

In the past I have written about replica watches that I have seen after a great deal of anticipation but whose reality just hasn’t grabbed me, or of my first meeting with a replica watch that I’d mentally wanted but found myself no longer desiring after I finally saw it ‘in the metal’. It’s very easy to fall in love with a photo of a replica watch, but not all of them end up having that intangible ‘something’ which makes us add it to our list of ‘wants’, and not all of them seem to look exactly as they do in photos.

One of the replica watches which I put on my ‘dream list’ when it came out was A.Lange & Söhne’s Zeitwerk. A few models have come out since the original one, but it was not until recently that I finally managed to see one (or rather, two), and my high level of anticipation was laced with a slight sense of horological trepidation about its reality.

I need not have worried.

When it first appeared, it was considered by many to be a pretty adventurous step for Lange to launch such a radically new ‘face’ – an unorthodox digital presentation of time via large jumping hour and minutes indicators in windows on the left and right side of the dial. This method of presentation is what Lange calls a ‘time bridge’ that covers the bottom two-thirds of the dial. Set on the bridge between and beneath these windows is a large subsidiary seconds dial. The time bridge in these two models are made of Rhodiumed German silver.

On the upper portion of the dial is a power-reserve indicator in the traditional German UP/ DOWN (AUF/ AB) style.

The Zeitwerk is powered by the in-house manual wind Lange Calibre L043.1, which is made of 388 parts. It features a jumping numeral mechanism consisting of two minute disks and an hour ring. However, the movement also has traditional Lange hallmarks like a three-quarter plate, hand-engraved balance cock, and screwed gold chatons. Fully wound, the Zeitwerk has 36 hours of power reserve.

The replica watch has a diameter of 41.9 millimeters. You’ll notice the unusual placement of the crown. This is so it doesn’t ‘jam’ into the wearer’s hand.

I am a huge fan of jump hour displays, this was one of the main reasons for my interest in this replica watch. The reality of it did not disappoint, but made me desire it all the more. In a way it seems to sit bigger than 41.9mm (it is 12.6mm thick), but ‘in the metal’ it is every bit as boldly elegant as it is in photos, and there was nothing about it I didn’t like. My personal preference is for the white gold model (Ref. 140.029) which has a solid silver, black dial, because of the bolder contrast between the white metal and the dark dial. It is just an incredibly beautiful replica watch, and I particularly like the ‘time bridge’ and the balance of the dial.

Since the launch of the original Zeitwerk, it has not only garnered a lot of awards, including L’Aiguille d’Or Grand Prize at the 2009 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, but as well as formal recognition, it has also been incredibly popular.

There have been a few other versions released, including a luminous one, and one that strikes on the quarter hour and the hour. The latest iteration is the limited edition (of 30, all spoken for) Handswerkskunst limited edition model, whose dial surface has a grainy looking ‘frosted’ finish made up of thousands of minute hand engraved indentations produced by a technique known as ‘tremblage’.

LangeZeitwerkHandwerkkunst

Categories
Swiss Replica

HANDS-ON with MBF’s RetrotasticHM5

MB&F HM5

It is commonplace to use various types of stories describe replica watches, to describe replica watch brands. How powerfully and truly these ring is a combination of history, how the narratives are weaved around us and, in the end, how believable each of us finds them or wants to find them.

As it is with other creative people and artists/ artisans are in other fields, part of being an independent replica watchmaker, of being a small brand with a visible figurehead, is a certain feeling of intimacy. Your customers and admirers get to know something of you, perhaps even meet you; you almost ‘become’ your replica watches, and people are eager to know more about the replica watchmaker behind the creations. The more distinctive and ‘personalised’ the creation, the more its inspiration will want to be known and understood.

Max Busser has made no secret of how formative certain childhood influences have been on his creativity as an adult and in particular, the science fiction/ fantastical tv series and toys he enjoyed and dreamed about and which have been re-imagined and translated into modern horological toys. These have formed part of the ‘story of Max’, the ‘story of MB&F’. For those who have grown up with similar cultural memories, seeing something of your childhood in his replica watches is engaging.

The announcement of MB&F’s latest ‘Horological Machine’ the HM5 taps both into Max’s past and into a sense of ‘re-invented nostalgia’, as I shall call it. The looking back to a period for which you may not have an ‘adult memory’, but which you perhaps lived through (or just missed) as a young child, and which has become intriguing to you as an adult. In the case of the new HM5, it is all about the 1970s, and when I saw the first photo, there was a jolt of recognition.

To paraphrase my friend the replica watchnerd about the HM5, you know when you’ve been quietly hunting down an under the radar classic replica watch for half a year (a year in my case) and then somebody does an homage to it? That.

Left to right : Girard Perregaux Casquette, MB&F HM5, Amida Digitrend

The ‘HM5 On the Road Again’ is a modern day version of the niche Amida Digitrend, a replica watch which those of us with even just a passing interesting in mechanical 1970s direct read/ jump hour replica watches will come across at some point, with a liberal dash of Girard Perregaux Casquette LED, but Max Busser has not only paid homage to the Digitrend, but put a retrotastic automobile spin on it as well.

I was fortunate enough to see a travelling HM5 ‘in the metal’ with Charris Yadigaroglou of MB&F here in Sydney a few weeks after its launch.

The Amida Digitrend’s design was futuristic and sleek, but unlike many of its contemporaries, it was mechanical. Girard Perregaux ‘Casquette’ LED was introduced in 1976 in three versions – steel with steel bracelet (as in this example), gold finish, and Makrolon, a high-tech polycarbonate that was fitting for the futurism of the period. It is similar in casing style only to the Digitrend.

Back to front : MB&F HM5, Girard Perregaux Casquette, Amida Digitrend

The overlapping hour and minute rotating discs for the HM5’s time displays are simple and very much of the 1970s period for digital display replica watches. However, the HM5’s are coated in Super-LumiNova, and they may look ordinary, but they are not. The discs are flat on top of the movement (under the louvres), not vertically at the front of the case where they appear to be – they are bi-directional, inversed 90° and magnified 20%.

How was this done? MB&F worked with a high-precision optical glass supplier to develop a wedge-shaped sapphire crystal reflective prism that bent light from the discs 90° as well as magnify (via a convex lens), to maximise legibility.

So we come to the auto influence on the design, and Max’s abiding love of 1970s supercars. Loud, brash, low-slung and with sharp lines, one common design aspect was the use of louvres on these cars to restrict sunlight and heat.

The louvres on HM5, operated with a very firm and audible push and click of a slide on the side of the case, open to allow light down onto the Super-LumiNova numbers to charge them, meaning that you can control the level of brightness by the act of opening and closing. Actually, the most fun aspect of this replica watch for me is this ability to open and close the shutters; the latter can be done literally by hand as well, by pushing them back down.

So what is under the horological hood? Another case, of course. The first case is but a shell. Why? Water resistance. The car analogy is that auto louvres let in water as well as light, so to protect the replica watch’s engine from moisture, it is housed in its own stainless steel shell. The case of HM5 is not water resistant, but its movement is. The outer case is Zirconium, and the internal water resistant case, steel.

The HM5’s movement was designed by Jean-François Mojon, Vincent Boucard and Chronode. It has a 22k gold battle-axe shaped ‘mystery’ winding rotor (the crown also has the MB&F battle-axe motif), oscillating balance and hand-finished bridges, all of which are visible through a sapphire crystal display back that is set into the water resistant inner case.

To add to the ‘car feel’, there are two very small ‘exhaust’ pipes that aren’t exhaust pipes but ‘water pipes’, so that any moisture which goes through opened louvres can ‘run out’. Quirky. I probably also suggest that you don’t try this at the beach, though Charris may have mentioned a beach walk in passing…

The auto references are so subtly incorporated into the design that many people may miss them if they are not told about them, and the overall impact of the replica watch is that it is very much a ramped up 2012 offspring of the Amida. However, the MB&F mark is still there. From the side, there is a definite ‘Thunderbolt’ as a design cousin aspect to it.

Amida Digitrend

I’ve heard a number of people refer to the HM5 as ‘odd’ but for me it’s definitely not. As a fan of the Digitrend, I was always going to be someone who either loved the HM5 or felt that the Amida should have been left alone and not reinterpreted, let alone with supercar influences. Also, I am not really a ‘car person’. However, this new Machine is, simply, just terribly terribly cool. My favourite aspect of it is without doubt the interactive use of louvres to charge the SuperLuminova.

Left : HM5 Right : Amida Digitrend

To hold, the HM5 is large (hardly unexpected, from MB&F) and with some heft to it. However, the rubber strap is soft and very comfortable; when you strap it to your wrist the weight is significantly less obvious. To the point where after a few minutes, you (almost) barely notice it. Most unexpected.

The HM5 is in a limited edition of 66 pieces.