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IWC Replica

Comparing the old and new replica IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar watch

We at Monochrome obviously love IWC replica watches. Especially when it comes to their iconic pieces. The IWC Portuguese Perpetual Calendar is such a piece. First introduced in 2003, this replica watch has been subject to minor changes every couple of years, without dramatically changing its recognizable identity. So, it’s now time for us to compare the brand new 2015 edition with the previous version, and to see what changes can been seen – or maybe be unseen?

Throwback – The Perpetual Calendar by Perfect IWC Replica Watches

IWC Portuguese Perpetual Calendar Steel dial detail
IWC Portuguese Perpetual Calendar Limited Edition in stainless steel

How did the perpetual calendar by IWC get its iconic status? When you are trying to understand why a replica watch gained so much fame, you have to understand its historical importance. In the case of the IWC Portuguese Perpetual Calendar, this importance was not actually gained by a Portuguese replica watch, but rather by the Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar, a replica watch that rather shocked the industry. This Da Vinci Ref. 3570 was first introduced in 1985. For IWC, it was the launch of the perpetual calendar movement into wristwatches. The man behind it was Kurt Klaus. During the mid-1970s, when the Swiss replica watch industry was hugely affected by the quartz crisis, Kurt Klaus was creating a simple calendar mechanism that had to be fitted on top of a pocket replica watch movement. When he finished the replica watch in question, he presented it to IWC, which was impressed by his accomplishment – and later decided to produce it. Kurt Klaus was in charge of the prototyping, the design and the production of the replica watch. The market for pocket replica watches however decreased very quickly and at the end of the 1970s, pocket replica watches were almost gone.

IWC Portuguese Perpetual Calendar Steel dial close

Because of that, IWC had to focus on wristwatches. IWC approached Kurt Klaus to create a calendar mechanism again. While he was busy with his previous project, he obviously gained a lot of experience in the field of design, production and prototyping. Thus, Klaus felt he could create something more complicated and wanted to add something extra special. Thus, he didn’t create a simple calendar mechanism, but the perpetual calendar mechanism that is now featured in the IWC wristwatches. This mechanism also had to be fitted on top of an existing movement. However, at that time, most perpetual calendars had to be adjusted via multiple pushers, something mister Klaus didn’t approve. He wanted the movement to be easy to set and all adjustments had to be done by the crown. The idea was actually to fit the mechanism on a Jaeger-LeCoultre movement, but Günter Blümheim came up with the idea to design the replica watch with a chronograph as base-movement – and you have to imagine that all of this had to be done without the help of any computers, which makes it quite an achievement.

IWC Portuguese Perpetual Calendar Steel full case

Now we know why the perpetual calendar replica watches by IWC are special. However, what makes the IWC Portuguese Perpetual Calendar so special? Of course, the movement mentioned above participates (even if the Portuguese doesn’t feature a chronograph as base movement, but rather the famous 7-day movement). It basically is the same module as used in the Da Vinci. Only the size of the mechanism is different, as well as the accuracy of the moon phase complication (one day off in 122 years for the Da Vinci vs. on day off in 577 years for the Portuguese). You also have to realize that the Portuguese is a collection known for its stylish, classic and timeless design. Combining the classical looks of the Portuguese with the amazing perpetual calendar movement creates an interesting combo.

Now we are in the year 2015 and that’s special for IWC, as it is the 75th anniversary of the Portuguese. Because of this, IWC decided to add new replica watches into their collection, like the Annual Calendar and the anniversary pieces (here and here). Besides introducing a couple of new replica watches, they also upgraded a few replica watches, including the Portugieser Perpetual Calendar (note the change of name…). What changes can you expect? Let’s have a more detailed look.

The 2015 IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar Ref IW5033-01 (in 18k white gold)

What are the changes? Well, there are quite a lot of differences, design-wise and movement-wise. In short, the differences are:

The name – Portuguese vs. Portugieser

The previous version was named the “IWC Portuguese Perpetual Calendar” – the new one is named “IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar”. IWC goes back to the original German name.

The movement – calibre 51613 vs. calibre 52610

While the previous version was powered by the 51613 caliber, the 2015 edition features the 52610 caliber. The new version now features a twin-barrel system, instead of a single barrel ensuring the power reserve – always with 7 days of power-reserve but with a better stability over the full range of power.

The rotor is also different. The new rotor is now executed in 18k gold instead of stainless steel and it shows a partially skeletonized shape, with beveled angles.

Some technical parts are also improved, including the winding pawls and automatic wheel made of black ceramic. Rotor bearing is made of white ceramic. All of this for a better resistance and reliability because ceramic is practically wear-free. There’s now an Index-less balance with an increased frequency of 4 hertz (28,800 beats per hour) combined with a Breguet spring.

The overall movement had been redesigned with new bridges, more open to have a better view on the technical elements. Finally, there’s a nicer finish, with beveled angles on the bridges and more details on the gears, bridges, wheels, screws (now blued).

Old edition on the left, new edition on the right.

IWC Portuguese Perpetual Calendar Steel movement IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar movement

The lugs

When comparing the lugs, you can see that, on the latest edition, the lugs are shorter and also more curved. This might seem like a small change, but the feel on the wrist is quite different. The replica watch feels more balanced on the wrist and better adjust (even on smaller wirsts), making it easier and more elegant.

Old edition on the left, new edition on the right.

IWC Portuguese Perpetual Calendar Steel dial IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar dial

The crystal

The 2015 version has a box-type sapphire crystal, while the old one has a flat sapphire crystal. Thus, it allows to have a slightly thinner bezel on the 2015 edition of the IWC Portugeiser Perpetual Calendar and a thinner profile.

Old edition on the left, new edition on the right.

IWC Portuguese Perpetual Calendar Steel side IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar side

The logo on the dial

Looking at the dial of both replica watches, you can see that on the previous version the name IWC Schaffhausen was written with a curve. This is different on the new one, which is written in a straight line.

Old edition on the left, new edition on the right.

IWC Portuguese Perpetual Calendar Steel wristshot IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 2015 wristshot

The strap

While the previous edition came with a dark brown alligator strap by IWC, the 2015 IWC Portugeiser Perpetual Calendar comes with a black alligator strap by Santoni.


Taking all the changes into consideration, it is fair to say that the replica watch is updated pretty massively, even if most of these changes remains very subtle (or invisible). It is interesting to witness that a replica watch can go through so many changes without losing track of its identity. Looking at both replica watches, we have to admit that it remains an update and not a new replica watch – which is clearly not that bad.

Talking about the price, we have to compare the price of white gold versions (and not the stainless steel edition photographed here, priced much lower). The previous version in white gold is currently priced at 34,100 Euros and the new IWC Portugeiser Perpetual Calendar version in white gold is priced at 41,200 Euros. (The Limited Edition in stainless steel is priced at 25,600 Euros).

I would like to thank Dale Vito Boom for his article on the various IWC Portuguese Perpetual Calendar models, that served as guideline and inspiration for my article. 

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IWC Replica

Introducing the Replica IWC Portofino Hand-Wound Day Date Watch

aIn the rush of Replica Watches & Wonders 2015 (the Hong-Kong replica watch fair), it’s now IWC’s turn to come with a novelty: the IWC Portofino Hand-Wound Day & Date. We’ve recently covered various iterations of IWC’s Portofino models, like the recent Monopusher Chronograph, the Pure Classic edition and the one that featured in The Collector’s Series. The new Portofino Day & Date comes with interesting features, all based on the same nice and massive 8-day power reserve hand-wound in-house movement.

The IWC Portofino is the elegant and vintage-inspired proposition of the brand, with a large, round case and a clean and pure dial. What makes this replica watch kind of special is the use of IWC’s own movement, with a very large diameter that completely fills the case – something that is extremely pleasant (and rare enough in the industry to be mentioned). This Calibre 59220 features a single but large mainspring that can provide energy to the replica watch during 8 days (in fact, it could run longer, but for stability reasons, it will stop after 8 days). However, in the case of the IWC Portofino Hand-Wound Day & Date, it comes in a new combination of complications.

IWC Portofino Hand-Wound Day Date

We found this movement with several indications: a time only edition with the Portofino Pure Classic, with a power-reserve indicator and a small second in the Portofino Hand-Wound Eight Days and with an extra large date in a third edition. It also can be featured with a chronograph module in the Monopusher Chronograph Edition. With their latest edition, IWC chose to add the day of the week (located at 3) together with the large date (at 12), the power reserve indicator (at 8) and the small second (at 6). The day is classically displayed in a subsidiary dial with a rotating hand.

IWC Portofino Hand-Wound Day Date red gold IWC Portofino Hand-Wound Day Date stainless steel

The top quality replica IWC Portofino Hand-Wound Day & Date comes in the same 45mm case like the rest of the collection. It is available in stainless steel with a silver plated dial, black inscriptions, silvered indexes and hands and a black Santoni strap (Ref. IW516201) or in 18k red gold, with a slate dial, white inscriptions, golden hands and indexes and a brown Santoni strap (Ref. IW516203).

TheWC Portofino Hand-Wound Day & Date in steel (IW516201) is available for the retail price of € 13,400 Euros (including 21% VAT) and the 18k red gold version (ref. IW516203) comes in at € 23,800 Euros including 21% VAT. More info and availability -> www.iwc.com

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IWC Replica

ON THE WRIST : Replica IWC Portugieser AnnualCalendar

IWCAnnualCal48

At SIHH 2015 IWC released the Portugieser Annual Calendar, their first such complication and one about which we wrote at this link.

With thanks to IWC Australia we recently had the opportunity of having one of these new Annual Calendars for a few days, and took the chance to take it on a whirlwind tour of one or two places of note before our final destination of the sun dial at the Botanic Gardens (more on that later).

Having the choice of more than one dial/ metal combination we selected this one and not the blue dial because the blue seems to have had more coverage, but having seen both colours, the choice of this one ended up unexpectedly changing our views about certain aspects of this replica watch. But more on that later.

Firstly, let’s recap.

THE REPLICA WATCH

This year sees the celebration of the Port’s 75th birthday, and amongst the pieces released to mark this occasion is a new Annual Calendar, Ref. 5035. The first such complication in its repertoire, it is intended to fill in that gap between the perpetual calendar and the rest of the cheap replica watch pack. For those unfamiliar with this complication an annual calendar, unlike a perpetual calendar, will need to be adjusted on leap years.

IWCAnnualCal38

Containing the new IWC-manufactured Calibre 52850 with a seven day power reserve, the design of the dial has proven to be one of its biggest talking points since its release. With the month, date and day in three separate semi-circular apertures at 12 o’clock, it is very symmetrical, very balanced. The month/ date/ day sequence aka ‘American’ style, is a nod to founder F.A. Jones.

At 44.2mm and a thickness of 15.mm it is bigger than the Portugieser Automatic, which is 42.3mm with a thickness of 14mm. It comes in three models : two steel ones with either a midnight blue or silver-plated dial, and an 18k red gold on with a silver-plated dials.

SPECIFICATIONS

Features
– Power reserve display
– Annual calendar with displays for the date, day and month
– Small hacking seconds at 9 o’clock
– Glucydur® beryllium alloy indexless balance with high-precision adjustment screws on balance rim
– Breguet spring
– See-through sapphire-glass back
– Rotor with 18-carat gold medallion
– Glass: sapphire, arched edge, antireflective coating on both sides
– Water-resistant: 3 bar
– Diameter: 44.2 mm
– Case height: 15.3 mm

Movement : IWC-manufactured calibre 52850
– Frequency: 28,800 A/h / 4 Hz
– Jewels: 36
– Power reserve: 7 days (168 h)
– Winding: automatic

Ref. IW503501: case in stainless steel, silver-plated dial, black alligator leather strap, folding clasp in stainless steel

Ref. IW503502: case in stainless steel, midnight blue dial, black alligator leather strap, folding clasp in stainless steel

Ref. IW503504: case in 18-carat red gold, silver-plated dial, black alligator leather strap, folding clasp in 18-carat red gold

ON THE WRIST

As mentioned at the outset, one of the reasons for choosing this model was the dial colour. One of the subjects that has come up a bit about this replica watch has been the size and dominance, space wise, of the apertures. Some people have expressed a dislike of this.

On the blue dialled model they are indeed rather striking, in large part due to the contrasting colour of the background, and not to everyone’s taste. However, what the two of us who spent some time with this piece can say based on our experience over that time is that the silver-dialled one is an entirely different proposition and may just change your mind about the windows, if that has been your concern. It had been ours.

For us, silver dial > blue dial. The IWC blue is one for which it is known and has many admirers. A few years ago I met an American collector whose special focus is blue-dialled IWCs, and I know there is a great deal of affection for it. However, for this replica watch at least, the silver-dialled version just seems that little bit more ‘clean’ and thus perhaps that little bit more elegant, essentially because the apertures blend in.

Sizing. For those who are familiar with the classic Portugieser 7 Days, to compare with a popular model that many of you are most likely to have seen, it is not too big a leap in terms of comfort on the wrist. Slightly more heft, but not enough to worry about it being a ding magnet. In terms of the ‘overall build’, as they say, it is solid, the case and dial nicely finished.

Where is an Annual Calendar most at home? With a sundial, of course.

This Armillary sphere sundial is situated in the Herb Garden of the Royal Botanic Gardens, Sydney. Cast from silicon bronze, is is 2.4m high, 1.8m in diametre and weighs 1.5 tonnes. The four cardinal points of the compass are marked at the four feet that support the meridional, equatorial and horizontal rings of the sphere.

Cast in 1993 by Margaret Folkard and John Ward of Sundails Australia, the hours from 6am to 6 pm are marked with 10 minute divisions on the inside of the equatorial ring. The most charming thing about it is its nod to its placement in the herb garden

As to the accuracy of the sundial…

CONCLUSION

With looks that are quintessentially Portugieser, an annual calendar is a nice addition into that family’s mix for those who want a calendar complication from IWC but for whom a perpetual is either not what they want or more likely, not within budget. However, the looks of the two different dials are that marked that we would encourage you to look at both the blue and silvered dials.

For those whose response to the new annual calendars has been somewhat ambivalent based on the photographs that they’ve seen of it, this is a replica watch that may just surprise you ‘in the metal’. On the flipside, some have found it sitting bigger than they had anticipated, so as always our advice is to go to an AD or boutique and try one on for size.

The Australian RRP for thie Ref: IW503501 (stainless case/ silver-plated dial)is $29,100.

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IWC Replica

Hands On Replica IWC Portugieser Annual Calendar Unique Edition ‘BFI London Film Festival 2015’

Top Quality Replica IWC is used to create, amongst their various limited editions, replica watches related to Film Festivals. It was the case recently with a unique Portofino Hand-Wound Monopusher Chronograph dedicated to the Tribeca Film Festival 2015. The same kind of partnership is now applied to the BFI London Film Festival. And as we’re not talking about just putting a name on the wall behind the red carpet, there’s something much more interesting for us here: replica watches. The first one we’re about to introduce you is based on a recent but inspired creation of the brand. Here is the IWC Portugieser Annual Calendar Unique Edition ‘BFI London Film Festival 2015’ that we had the chance to have on our wrists and in our hands.

Before going deeper into this (very nice) edition, be aware that it’s not going to be easy to acquire it. This unique timepiece will be auctioned at the BFI’s unique fundraising gala LUMINOUS on October 6th 2015. All of the proceeds raised will go towards the BFI national archive – and this year for the first time, the auction will be opened to bidders across the world through this link. Now you’re aware… This replica watch will certainly be quite pricy.

IWC Portuguese Annual Calendar Unique Edition ‘BFI London Film Festival 2015’ IWC Portuguese Annual Calendar Unique Edition ‘BFI London Film Festival 2015’ IWC Portuguese Annual Calendar Unique Edition ‘BFI London Film Festival 2015’

The IWC Portugieser Annual Calendar Unique Edition ‘BFI London Film Festival 2015’ is, as you’ve probably guessed by its name, based on the recently revealed (during the 2015 edition of the SIHH) Portugeiser Annual Calendar 5035 – oh yes, as we’re talking about this replica watch and for your personal culture, note that IWC change the name Portuguese to Portugieser, the original name of this replica watch. The IWC 5035 is an ingenious creation that boasts a technically complicated annual calendar movement (but not as complicated and pricy as a perpetual calendar) with an interesting integration of this complication in the classical, yet iconic design of the Portugieser Automatic 7-Day.

IWC Portuguese Annual Calendar Unique Edition ‘BFI London Film Festival 2015’

On the dial, we found here the same indications and look as a regular Portugieser Automatic – long leaf hands, rail-road track for the minutes, applied numerals, small second sub-dial at 9 and 7-day power reserve indicator at 3 – but with 3 extra windows on the top, at 12. Displayed in arch, the calendar is easy to read with from left to right, the month, the date and the day of the week. As we’re talking about an annual calendar, it will automatically adjust to the months with 30 or 31 days, meaning that the only correction required will occur in February.

IWC Portuguese Annual Calendar Unique Edition ‘BFI London Film Festival 2015’

The IWC Portugieser Annual Calendar features a brand new movement. Even if the display from the dial and the long power reserve remain equal to the previous editions of the automatic Portugieser replica watches, it now comes with several improvements, including a double barrel (instead of a large unique one) for a better stability and accuracy, an improved Pellaton winding mechanism, some durable ceramic wheels (for the winding pawls, the automatic wheel and the rotor bearing) and an index-less balance with an increased frequency of 4 hertz. Besides these technical modifications, the movement is also featuring a nicer finish and a skeletonized rotor. What doesn’t change however is the large size of this calibre that completely fills the case.

IWC Portuguese Annual Calendar Unique Edition ‘BFI London Film Festival 2015’

The Unique Edition of the IWC Portugieser Annual Calendar for the ‘BFI London Film Festival 2015’ showcases several specific features. First of all, its case is made of solid platinum. Then, it comes with a silver-plated dial with sunburst pattern. Finally, the hands and the indexes are blued. The result is a cold but appealing look that really pops in the flesh, with natural light.

IWC Portuguese Annual Calendar Unique Edition ‘BFI London Film Festival 2015’

Now you’re probably like us, wandering why this replica watch is a unique edition. Clearly, the association of grey metal, with a silver dial that perfectly catches light and contrasting blued hands and indexes is superb. Why oh why IWC doesn’t come with this replica watch in a less limited edition….? No worries, there is another edition dedicated to the BFI London Film Festival, a cheaper, less limited version that boasts the same attributes – but you’ll have to wait a few days to see it on Monochrome. More details here on IWC.com.

IWC Portuguese Annual Calendar Unique Edition ‘BFI London Film Festival 2015’ IWC Portuguese Annual Calendar Unique Edition ‘BFI London Film Festival 2015’

Thank you to our editor Justin Hast for these superb and exclusive live photos that he did for for us and also for his personal blog KangKono.

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IWC Replica

PHOTOS : a 1970s Replica IWC YachtClub

JHIWCYachtClub3

Although it is a name that has perhaps become less known to contemporary replica watch enthusiasts, the ‘Yacht Club’ moniker forms an important part of IWC’s history.

The original Yacht Club Automatic was launched at the Baselworld 1967. With its focus on precision, utility, and durability as well as its design, it has endured as an example of sports-dressy case design from the period. One of its best-selling features was a shock system involving spring suspension with rubber bumpers for the movement, thus ‘isolating’ it, a major innovation for the brand. The Yacht Club also became its most popular line during that time, and for modern collectors and enthusiasts who are keen on emblematic replica watches from that period, it is a popular and price-accessible choice.

Inside the original Yacht Club was the Calibre 8541 with date display and Pellaton bi-directional winding system. The stainless steel Yacht Club was water resistant to 100m and 60m for the gold version, via a crown mechanism that automatically tightened the seals as water pressure increased.

There were a variety of Yacht Club models – automatic with no date, a few manual-wind models with the Calibre 89 amongst others, covering all price points, and in 1977 IWC introduced the 38mm Yacht Club II, which was mostly quartz (in keeping with the period) and had a screw-down crown that wasn’t present in its predecessors. The Yacht Club II was retired in 1985 and then other collections became more of a priority for IWC until SIHH 2010 when they brought the Yacht Club name back but in the Portuguese line, as a flyback chronograph which has the IWC Calibre 89360 with its 68-hour power reserve and 600m water resistance.

Today’s example dates from c.1973 and has an anti-magnetic inner case. In a stainless steel case with silver dial and applied baton markers, it has the automatic Calibre 8541 movement. The case is 36mm and has a domed plexi atop. What is special about this piece is that it still has the original strap and IWC buckle. Not only this, but it was a gift, presented to its owner in 1973 in recognition of 25 years at Schafenhausers Strickmaschinenfabrik. For a replica watch of this age it has been kept in remarkable condition, its edges still sharp and nary a mark.

This is a lovely example of the solid no-nonsense replica watches for which that period was known. As its owner points out, vintage Yacht Clubs are collectible and desirable, but seen as less so than vintage Ingenieurs, which have had a more glamorous lineage. This is reflected in its pricing, but it also makes them what he calls “a relative bargain” and something worth considering for those who wish to get into vintage IWCs and are on a tighter budget. For those without a particular interest in the movement aspects, they are also good looking replica watches that are evocative of the design codes of that period.

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IWC Replica

SIHH 2015: Replica IWC Portuguese Annual Calendar ref. 5035

For the 75th anniversary of its emblematic model, the Portuguese (or Portugaise in French /Portugieser in German), IWC chose not to totally renew the collection but instead to improve some of the (visual and technical) aspects and to add some interesting complications. The star of the show this year was the IWC Portuguese Annual Calendar ref. 5035, that keeps the original feeling of the Portuguese but improves it more than you can really see.

One of the main and recurrent reproaches made to IWC is its lack of continuity within the collections. Collectors do not really have to time to get used to a design and then IWC totally renews its icons with a brand new look. It was the case with the Aquatimer last year. Not that this new collection is not a good one, but it didn’t keep the original feeling of the very first Aquatimers. It was also the case for the Ingenieur collection in 2013. INow it seems that IWC listened to its collectors (and us at the same time). For the 2015 edition of the SIHH, IWC chose to just update and improve aspects of its main collection, the Portuguese. We’re glad that the brand of Schaffhausen decided to keep its best seller just the way we love it.

IWC Portuguese Annual Calendar 5035 - 5

This time, they have also added something interesting to the package: an annual calendar, intelligently integrated in the Portuguese 7 days. Thus, we found back the same dial layout, with a small second located at 9 and a power reserve indicator at 3. The face is also 99% similar, with these typical applied Arabic numerals, the rail track around the dial and the leaf hands. It also keeps what makes the charm of the Portuguese: its very large dial opening, with almost no bezel. What does change is the area around 12, with 3 new apertures.

IWC Portuguese Annual Calendar 5035 - 7

Instead of going for 2 or 3 sub-dials like in the Perpetual Calendar, the new IWC Portuguese Annual Calendar ref. 5035 goes for a clean and highly legible choice of 3 discs – one for the month, one for the date and one for the day – that are displayed into an arc at 12. First, legibility is improved because the 3 indications are located one next to each other with the result that the dial does not appear to be overloaded. One of the strength of the IWC Portuguese when it was launched in 1945 and for the rest of its life was to be oversized and overly ‘empty‘. When you look at the classical 7 days or the Hand-Wound, what is extremely appealing is this massive and at the same time pure design. The integration of the annual calendar in this context is faithful to the traditional look of the Portuguese.

IWC Portuguese Annual Calendar 5035 - 10

Everything is not perfect however. There are two aspects that could have been slightly better for us. First, we don’t feel that the mention ‘Annual Calendar’ was an obligation. Then, the position of the indications may certainly be guided by technical matters but they are not as easy to read than expected, as you read ‘month-date-day’. A display ‘day-date-month’ could have been more natural. Nothing dramatic though but little details that could have improved again the IWC Portuguese Annual Calendar.

IWC Portuguese Annual Calendar 5035 - 3

The face and case – well almost every visual aspects – may be similar to the previous editions but the movement is totally new. The movement of the IWC Portuguese Annual Calendar ref. 5035 is part of a new family of engines, the 52000. It comes with many improvements:

  • A double barrel instead of a single large barrel – always with 7 days of power reserve but with a better stability over the full range of power.
  • An improved Pellaton winding mechanism.
  • Winding pawls and automatic wheel made of black ceramic. Rotor bearing made of white ceramic. All of this for a better resistance and reliability cause ceramic is practically wear-free.
  • Index-less balance with an increased frequency of 4 hertz (28,800 beats per hour) combined with a Breguet spring.
  • A slimmer and redesigned rotor, partially skeletonized to improve the view on the movement.
  • New design of the bridges, more open to have a better view on the technical elements.
  • A nicer finish, with bevelled angles on the bridges and more details on the gears, bridges, wheels, screws (now blued).

IWC Portuguese Annual Calendar 5035 - 4

These new features not only increase the perceived quality and the visual pleasure but they also add some precision to the movement. Long power reserves are hard to manage and a double barrel will help to keep a good accuracy all over the 7 days range of power. Combined with a faster balance and a Breguet spring, we can expect the replica IWC Portuguese Annual Calendar to be an accurate ally for a week long on the wrist.

IWC Portuguese Annual Calendar 5035 - 6

We also told you that the 2015 IWC Portuguese was visually ALMOST identical to the previous editions. However, 2 aspects had been improved: the sapphire crystal has an arched-edge shape that virtually diminishes the height of the case (remember that this replica watch measures 15.3mm, not what we can call an ultra-thin replica watch) and the straps now comes with curved horns for a better comfort, even on small wrists. Even though the IWC Portuguese Annual Calendar has a 44.2mm diameter, it remains totally wearable and feels balanced on the wrist, especially in stainless steel (because of the lighter weight compared to gold).

The IWC Portuguese Annual Calendar ref. 5035 is available in 3 editions:

  • Stainless steel case with silver dial and black Santoni alligator strap
  • Stainless steel case with blue dial and black Santoni alligator strap
  • 18K red gold case with silver dial and black Santoni alligator strap

The stainless editions are priced at CHF 23.000 and the gold edition is priced at CHF 34.000. More on in our pre-SIHH article about this replica watch and on IWC official website.

IWC-Portuguese-Annual-Calendar-5035-2 IWC-Portuguese-Annual-Calendar-5035-5 IWC-Portuguese-Annual-Calendar-5035-7 IWC-Portuguese-Annual-Calendar-5035-10 IWC-Portuguese-Annual-Calendar-5035-3 IWC-Portuguese-Annual-Calendar-5035-4 IWC-Portuguese-Annual-Calendar-5035-6

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IWC Replica

HANDS-ON :Replica IWC’s Deep Three divewatch

IWCDeepThree3

Horologium was recently invited by IWC to attend the Australian launch of this year’s Aquatimer collection, whose worldwide launch was at SIHH 2014 in January. As I am covering the event for another publication, I’ll not be covering it on the blog, although you will find some photos from the day on the Horologium instagram account.

The first part of the Sydney launch was a ‘scuba diving experience’, during which participants were given an Aquatimer to wear. I ended up with an Aquatimer Automatic, but today’s post is about the replica watch that I’d fantasised about the possibility of wearing for the occasion but which, due to its rather limited production status, unfortunately was not available for us to even play with as a desk diver– the Deep Three.

The Deep Three is, as the name indicates, the third of series of mechanical depth gauge diver’s replica watches. The first was the GST Deep One (1999) and the second, the Aquatimer Deep Two (2009). Like the internal/ external ‘Safe Dive’ bezel system in the Aquatimer collection, the depth gauge on the Deep Three is the latest chapter of IWC’s dive replica watch development. During a dive, the blue depth indicator moves to show current dive depth, whilst the red  indicator remains at the maximum depth attained, down to a maximum of 50 meters.

The Deep Three’s case is made of titanium, measuring 46mm x 16.5mm. Apart from the depth gauge, the basic features of the Deep Three are a date display, hacking seconds, two-tone SuperLuminova luminescent hands (depth, dive time, minute and seconds displays in green, hour hand and indices are blue), screw-in crown, the SafeDive system of course, engraved caseback, and IWC’s quick-change strap system. Inside is the automatic IWC calibre 30120 with a forty-two hour power reserve.

The pressure metering system of the depth gauge is housed in a pressure converter/ crown case at 9 o’clock. There are micro holes in the convertor’s cover, so that when water pressure acts on the membrane it pushes a pin towards the interior of the case. This moves the gauge’s two indicators – as mentioned, the blue depth indicator moves to show current dive depth, the red maximum depth indicator remains at the maximum depth attained during the course of the dive.

The reset button for the maximum depth indicator is at 2 o’clock. The titanium cover at 4 o’clock conceals the sliding clutch mechanism for the new rotating bezel system. The internal rotating bezel, which engages in precise one-minute intervals, can only be moved anticlockwise.

Oh and of course we must not forget the water resistance – 10 bar.

Thanks to its titanium case, the 46mm Aquatimer Deep Three feels far less bulky than its size would indicate, and it feels like somewhere between a 44-46mm on the wrist.

It was the centre of IWC attention in Geneva, and it’s obvious why. It’s a funky, legible and practical piece of high-end dive replica watchmaking.

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IWC Replica

A look at replica IWC’s Calibre83

Having blogged about IWC’s classic Calibre 89, today I go a step back from that and look at an example of their Calibre 83, introduced in 1939 and generally understood to be a transitional calibre between pocket replica watches and wrist replica watches.

IWC’s manual winding calibre 83 was produced in the 1930s to 1940s, and layout closely resembled the IWC pocket replica watch calibres of the same era, Cal.95 and Cal.98. One of the major alterations that was made to it during its life was the addition of Incabloc shock resistance when it was redesigned for use in the Mark X military replica watch.

Although not as popular as the Calibre 89, and certainly less readily available, it forms an important part of this collector’s vintage IWC collection.

In comparing the Calibre 89 with the Caliber 83, the most obvious difference is the seconds display. For me, I probably tend towards the 89, aesthetically. For some who collect these calibres, they prefer them in their military issued form of Mark XI for the Cal.89 and W.W.W. for the Cal.83.

Both movements were utilised for many dress replica watches. This example is a 35mm 18ct gold replica watch from c.1945. It is in pretty good condition but is showing its age just a bit on the dial’s patina, though this is pretty much inevitable in a replica watch of this age, and part of its charm.

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IWC Replica

Replica IWC’s classic movement – the Calibre89

A lot happened at IWC in 1944. An American squadron bombed them on April 1 during an air raid on Schaffhausen, there was the appearance of IWC’s first W.W.W. (Watch. Wrist. Waterproof) replica watches for the British Army, and also the arrival of Albert Pellaton from Vacheron Constantin as Technical Director.

Somehow, amidst this and the ruins of post war Europe, Pellaton worked on his first design, the manual winding calibre 89 movement, which was launched two years later. Simple, robust and reliable, it proved to be representative of the times and a success because of its no-nonsense durability.

The genesis of the Calibre 89 was IWC’s calibre 83, introduced in 1939 and generally understood to be a transitional calibre between pocket replica watches and wrist replica watches. It proved to be one of the brand’s stalwarts, used  through to the early 1990s. It found its way into replica watches such as the Mark XI (1947) and the Yacht Club, but today’s examples of this calibre are very much civilian. The Cal.89 found its way into a huge variety of cases and designs.

At 35mm and 36mm respectively, these replica watches may seem small to those used to contemporary sizes that are closer to the 40mm mark, but their designs are very classical and arguably s a perfect dress replica watch size on the wrist. My personal preference is for the 1960s rose gold version, which is just stunning, especially those lugs.  I was told by a replica watchmaker that in Portugal, it’s referred to  as a ‘biscuit case’. The stainless steel one is from a decade later and, because of the metal, perhaps more in the workmanlike spirit of the first post war Calibre 89s.

One of the reasons that the owner of these replica watches so values this calibre is that its centre second movement was designed from ground up rather than adding an extra wheel to convert from a small seconds to centre second, which is not uncommon for cost efficiency reasons.

If you are interested in getting an example of this important IWC calibre, it’s worthwhile taking the time to look around and do some research. The sheer breadth of the styles means that it’s worth the wait to get exactly the right one for you.

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IWC Replica

IWC 2012 Pilot’s replica watches : hands-on with the Miramar Worldtimer

At SIHH 2012, IWC’s presence was the most talked about, the rather humbly named ‘booth’ a no-cost-spared (partial) reproduction of an aircraft carrier, complete with flight deck, officers’ briefing room, pilots’ locker room, and even a flight deck control room.

Their booth represented their focus of this year’s releases, IWC’s highly successful 70 year old Pilots’ Collection, with a reworking of existing models and a focus on the five new TOP GUN models, especially two ‘Miramar’ models : the Big Pilot TOP GUN Miramar, and the Chronograph TOP GUN Miramar.

Marine Corps Air Station Miramar (MCAS Miramar) is a United States Marine Corps installation that is home to the 3rd Marine Aircraft Wing located in Miramar, San Diego. The air station is best known as the former location of the United States Navy Fighter Weapons School (NFWS) and its TOPGUN training program, which relocated to Naval Air Station Fallon in western Nevada and merged into the Naval Strike and Air Warfare Center (NSAWC).

Last week, I was given the opportunity to take a look at some of these new IWC models, and two of them stood out for me.

First up is the Pilot’s Replica Watch Chronograph TOP GUN Miramar has (Ref. IWC501902).

At 48mm and with a height of 15mm, this is not a small replica watch. The dark grey ceramic case is polished, with a titanium caseback, which is matched in the buckle for the strap. With their largest in-house calibre the 51111 inside, there is a 7-day power reserve, with the display at 3 o’clock.

When the two MIRAMAR models were launched, people seem to be quite divided about how they felt about them. One of the things that has been mentioned has been the size. A 48mm replica watch sounds far too large for most people but to me, this one seemed to sit smaller than a 48mm, feeling almost like a 46mm.

The polished case gives it quite a noticeable sheen which perhaps to some degree, is at odds with the rest of the replica watch; I would probably prefer a matte case, as has been used before by IWC. Another issue that people have been talking about has been the colour scheme on the dial. I found the military-styled dial and colouring of this replica watch quite different ‘in the metal’ to photos. In fact the colouring you see in this photo looks a bit different to how it looks in natural light. What did surprise me about this model is that I felt more positively disposed to it after seeing it.  It looks better than it does in photos, but it’s not a discreet replica watch, in terms of size and colouring. Of the two MIRAMAR models, I prefer this one, as the date window on the chronograph is of the three-dates-visible type, which I’m not that keen on.

Next up is the Pilot Worldtimer (Ref. IWC326201) with its 24-hour ring and featuring 23 locations on the outer ring. It is housed in a 45mm (13.5mm high) stainless steel case inside which is the automatic Cal. 30750 movement, which has a power-reserve of 42 hours. The seconds are hacking and there is a 6 bar water resistance.

In the photo below, the UTC (current Universal Time Coordinate) is set for London. For cities which are on daylight saving time, the time can be read below the dot linked to the city name with a line. If local time is changed on the dial, the time shown by the 24-hour ring remains unaffected and the movement continues to tick along during the change.

This is a good solid functional world timer. There are no unnecessary bells and whistles, you get exactly what the name states. As I mentioned above, the ‘three date’ style of window is not my preference, especially for a dial that’s already quite busy, but the use of a red marker does the date easy to see at a glance.

I often mention how a luxury replica watch sits on the wrist, as many of us will read a size and mentally make a decision as to whether it’s excluded from consideration because it’s too big/ small. It’s not always that easy. I’ve seen replica watches that are 45mm sit more comfortably than ones that are 42mm, for example. This 45mm Worldtimer is one of those 45mm replica watches that seems to sit smaller than its size. If you’re looking for a world timer and like the look of IWC’s one but are unaccustomed to wearing such a large replica watch, I’d suggest that you test it at a retailer, you might be surprised.

This final replica watch wasn’t in the SIHH 2012 pilots’ releases, but here it is, because it’s an attractive replica watch, and part of the current collection. The Portofino Chronograph Laureaus Sport for Good Foundation edition (Ref. IWC391019) is IWC’s sixth Laureus collaboration, with the dial the Laureaus blue, representing hope.

A classic Portofino chronograph designwise, it’s a comfortable 42mm and 13.5mm high, with the Cal. 75320 and a 44-hour power reserve. As well as the blue dial and matching blue alligator strap, the other distinguishing feature is the engraved caseback relating to the Laureaus Foundation. It’s produced in a limited edition of 2,500 and not a bad looking attractive replica watch; the blue is quite deep and discreet and for its size, it feels almost like a 40mm replica watch.

Here are some final shots of some of the other 2012 IWC releases.


Many thanks to Ching and The Hour Glass in Sydney for the opportunity to have a look at these new models.