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Calendar Watch Luxury Watch News Piaget Replica Watch Review

High Quality Fake Piaget Polo S: Outside Its Comfort Zone

How unlucky can you get?

Piaget invested heavily into the launch of the new replica , US made Piaget Polo S only to have its launch event fall on exactly the same day as the horrible terrorist attack in Nice, a heat wave in New York where it was introduced, and just before the attempted coup in Turkey.

Piaget Polo S chronograph blue dial

Piaget Polo S with brown dial

Desiring a classy, steel watch

But I don’t want to go there; I want to go back a few years instead.

Like many fake watch collectors and connoisseurs I found myself at a point where I desired a classy, steel replica watch made by an haute horlogerie brand. My excuse for “needing” such a fake watch was, of course, that I wanted an upscale timepiece that wasn’t as fragile as my gold  AAA+ watches.

Piaget Polo S with time and date

The only problem with that was that I ended up treating my upscale steel  fake watch with the same protective nature once I got it. Of course I considered the icons of the industry: the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, the Vacheron Constantin Overseas, and the two steel replica watches people have been saying that the AAA+ Polo S resembles most: the Patek Philippe Nautilus and Aquanaut.

Piaget Polo S with white dial

The fake watch I ended up getting was none of these, and in fact has now already been discontinued for several years. It was the Piaget Upstream, which was introduced at the 2001 SIHH and discontinued in 2007.

What made me buy this high quality fake made watch was the incredible bracelet, whose clasp is integrated into the case thereby creating a Swiss watch with no visible clasp when on the wrist. This also meant that the clasp was not felt, resulting in one of the most comfortable steel AAA+ watches I have ever worn.

But there was more.

The design of the case and the bracelet was unlike any other fake watch. The same can be said for the numerals that Piaget used on the dial. An abstract, futuristic, yet highly legible font that seemed to have come straight from the bridge of the U.S.S. Enterprise. Even a decade and a half after its introduction, it is still a very contemporary design.

What continues to surprise me the most is that this is the replica watch I get by far the most comments on from people inside the industry as well as people who couldn’t care less about  replica watches (and often do not even wear one).

Piaget Polo S chronographs flanking what the brand calls the “time only” with brown dial

Piaget and steel: not a long love story

Since 1957, Piaget had been making fake watches exclusively in precious metals. I’ve heard that they made some steel replica watches during the 1960s exclusively for the Japanese market, but I have never seen one.

As a result, Piaget has become a master in working with precious metals. But as time progressed, and the Swiss fake watch industry entered a renaissance following the Quartz Crisis of the late 1970s, steel became more and more a choice as a new “precious” metal.

For the Upstream’s production, Piaget had to rely on an outside supplier to provide the steel parts of the fake watch, although they were finished and assembled in Piaget’s manufacture in Plan-les-Ouates on the outskirts of Geneva. Priced just above $6,000, with its sophisticated bracelet the Upstream simply couldn’t be produced cost-effectively with the majority of the work done by an outside contractor.

Piaget Polo S blue dial

For almost a decade Piaget went without a steel fake watch in its collection, but not without a sportier replica watch. In 2009, the Polo 45 took over from where the Upstream left off. It was crafted in titanium with steel gadroons (polished slightly domed elements on the case) and a rubber strap. A time-only timepiece sold for $12,300, it is still part of the current collection.

The Polo 45 was a refreshing and modern take on the original Polo from 1979, a design that ruled the ensuing decade as a luxurious sporty replica watch in the collection.

Is this a Polo?

This is also where my confusion came from when I AAA+ watched the reveal of the new Piaget Polo S live on my laptop. This fake watch may be called Polo, but it shares none of the characteristics that make the Polo a Polo. It’s almost like when Daniel Craig was introduced as James Bond: he was definitely not the usual gentleman in a suit with a sense of humor, but rather Jason Bourne’s better dressed cousin.

Piaget Polo S chronograph with blue dial

This is actually not the first time that Piaget has created a Polo model in this fashion. In the 1990s the Polo also left behind its typical gadroons for a more traditional case and dial. In my opinion, the new Polo S shares more resemblance with Piaget’s Emperador Coussin, only with a much wider bezel.

The result is a design that more closely resembles other high-end steel fake watches than you would generally expect from a manufacture with the stature of Piaget.

I understand the need for a steel replica  watch in the collection, even though it falls outside the company strategy that has worked so well for Piaget for more than half a century.

Customer desires have changed; the markets have changed; and being part of the Richemont group, the requirement to make a profit for the shareholders remains important.

Piaget Polo S chronograph with white dial

Introducing a steel fake watch is a logical way to expand your customer base and increase revenue. Although to accomplish the latter, Piaget has to succeed in keeping production costs down, which means not repeating what precipitated the downfall of the Upstream.

Being a highly creative manufacture, it is only natural that people might be disappointed when your latest model seems less creative than usual. I think this is also amplified by Piaget itself in calling the Polo S “the US fake watch for a new generation: a generation of game changers” and then combining it with a – for Piaget, at least – unprecedented spectacle involving celebrities like new ambassador Ryan Reynolds and Michael B Jordan as well as several others from around the world.

Piaget Polo S with brown dial

This is quite a contrast with the past. Although Piaget’s replica watches have been on the wrists of countless celebrities – and the Polo had a reputation as a jet-set replica watch from the beginning – Piaget always had a tendency to let its replica watches do the talking rather than engage official ambassadors.

A new generation will have different desires, but are those met with the Polo S?

Although more or less a new concept for Piaget, there are plenty of steel replica watches with manufacture movements to choose from – crafted by prestigious brands like Cartier and Chopard and often available at an even lower price point than the $9,350 at which Piaget has priced the Polo S with time and date.

What does the Polo S offer a new generation that these replica watches don’t?

When everything is said and done, the Polo S is a fine replica watch. Caliber 1110P powering the chronograph is derived from Caliber 880P that powers the Polo 45 chronograph, an integrated chronograph movement with column wheel and vertical clutch.

Some recent detractors of the Polo S have suggested that Piaget has reduced the finishing of the movement because of its price, but I seriously doubt if there is much difference in finish between an 880P and the 1110P since costs have been brought down by simplifying the movement. I hope to do a side-by-side of both movements in the near future to establish this.

The fact is that the next generation of replica watch connoisseurs will probably have a significantly different view on replica watches and luxury than current and past generations.

The world’s elite car manufacturers scramble to turn everything into an SUV when they can’t they call a product a crossover, while jewelry brands are still puzzled as to how to create captivating designs that go with casual and active lifestyles.

These brands are all forced outside their comfort zones, only some more than others.

Quick Facts replica Piaget Polo S
Case: stainless steel, 42 mm
Movement: automatic Caliber 1110P
Functions: hours, minutes; date

Quick Facts replica Piaget Polo S chronograph
Case: stainless steel, 42 mm
Movement: automatic Caliber 1160P with integrated chronograph movement with column wheel and vertical clutch
Functions: hours, minutes; date, chronograph

Categories
Feature Luxury Watch News

High Quality Replica Watch Embellishments: Which Luxury Replica Watches Are Actually Worth Your Money?

Whenever I read reviews about the finish and quality of watch movements, I see several features thrown around that more or less appear to be markers of high quality: gold chatons, diamond endstones, Guillaume balances, swan’s neck regulators, etc. Assuming watch movements are finished to an equally exacting standard, would you say the more such characteristics a movement embodies, the better, or are they just stylistic flourishes?

For example, I am perplexed because I have seen a Patek Observatory Chronometer pocketwatch movement (which I can assume is probably close to a gold standard) with only one chaton-ed jewel at its center, whereas Lange and Greubel Forsey seem to try putting gold chatons on all their jewels. Also, Glashutte Original seems to be the only brand I know that puts two swan’s neck regulators in their movements…

I have been interested in watches for a couple years now, but most of my interests have been aesthetic, and my sad lack of real scholarly knowledge has led me searching for your wisdom.

Be aware that finish is a separate issue – there are many very beautifully finished watches with no chatons, no swan’s neck regulators, no diamond endstones, and so on; they are however magnificently hand-finished from stem to stern, and to a real connoisseur far more interesting than a watch that adds on anachronistic features but cuts corners on finishing.All of the features you mention can be found in high quality watches, but they are, alas, not necessarily sure indications of a high quality watch, or a high quality movement. The question of whether any feature in and of itself represents inherently better quality is almost always, to some extent, an open one. Take those lovely gold chatons. They are in fact a terrible anachronism: difficult to do, yes, but offering additional complexity not for any gains in performance, but for its own sake. Diamond endstones are likewise a throwback to a time when natural gems had to be used for balance pivots, as synthetic rubies had not yet been developed.

All I can suggest is to keep reading as much as possible, and understand the basics of mechanical horology as much as possible, the better to be able to judge what value a feature really adds — and be aware, furthermore, that most flashy talking-point features don’t really offer much more than the chance for the maker to realize a better margin on the watch.

Watch Utility

This time, I submit to your judgement this question: what are the limits between true horological value and mere shallow virtuosism? I have in mind the newest issue by Greubel Forsey: the all-sapphire encased Double Tourbillon 30° Technique Sapphire.

I have no doubt that the making of this timepiece encompasses some truly groundbreaking achievements in terms of technology; nevertheless, given the purely esthetical goal (in my point of view) this effort addresses itself to, one is compelled to ask if such an achievement, for the sake of embellishment itself, is worthy of appreciation in terms of horological value.

This conundrum reminds me of an operatic anecdote, involving the great soprano Adelina Patti and the legendary composer Gioacchino Rossini: in one occasion, Patti sang Rossini’s aria “Una voce poco fa,” from “Il barbiere di Siviglia,” to the composer himself. She added some virtuosic “fioriture” to the music, to showcase her proficiency in the bel canto style. Rossini’s answer: “Very beautiful. Who is the composer?”

This parody summarizes, to me at least, the spirit of the question above: does a virtuoso-like execution have some artistic value on its own terms or is it merely an episode of self-indulgence from the artist, to obtain easy applause — a selfish act, so to speak? Or should we surrender to pure beauty and adhere to Oscar Wilde’s peremptory declaration about that matter: “We can forgive a man for making a useful thing as long as he does not admire it. The only excuse for making a useless thing is that one admires it intensely. All art is quite useless.”

Dr. George Daniels writes, in Watchmaking, that the fact that a remontoire d’egalite is useless merely adds to its charm. We may say the same of the tourbillon, the minute repeater, and indeed, virtually every element of mechanical horology, which from a practical standpoint has been completely and irreversibly overtaken by quartz. The question then becomes, how much of an admission of the utterly pointless (from a practical standpoint) nature of mechanical watches is one willing to tolerate? The sapphire-cased Greubel Forsey watch you mention is an interesting case in point; as you mention it is a bravura (and indeed, an operatic) piece of watch design but it has about as much to do with practical considerations in horology as a rubber ducky with a battleship.

However, if we were to discard all such pieces of bravura watchmaking simply for their ambition and histrionic nature we would throw out much that is of interest along with much that is merely striving for attention and novelty. Bear in mind always that the primary function of a mechanical watch today is not to tell the time, but to separate a client from as much money as possible, and Greubel Forsey, like every other watch company, is obliged occasionally to make rather more excessive timepieces than not in order to keep the lights on. If such a piece is also well made, and appealing from a design standpoint, so much much the better. In the case of the GF I think that that is the case but Lord knows, it ain’t necessarily so.

Rolex vs Tag Heuer

I am a watch enthusiast from India and have collected a couple of watches that I like, but now I want to buy another watch that costs under $11,000 to add to my collection and am really confused!

Right now I own a Breitling Navitimer (Blue) and an Omega Seamaster (Rose Gold and Leather).

I am thinking of adding a steel watch to my collection because I think during traveling Steel/Rubberwatches make sense.

I was thinking Rolex Submariner Date, but when I tried it I found it a tad bit small for my wrist…I know it is a great watch and many people suggest it but just because of that should I buy it? I do like the design…

I also like the leather version of Tag Heuer’s Monaco (The only Tag Heuer I like) and am also looking at IWC, Panerai, Chopard, JLC (Reverso)

I really appreciate those companies who have their own in-house movement.

Can you please give some advice?

The Rolex Submariner Date is indeed a great watch. The only disadvantage to it is that to own one is to become aware of how many other people have made the same decision. Still, I am going to advise you to buy one. It is technically a hundred times the watch that most others in its price range can claim to be and while every brand you mention also makes some very wonderful steel watches, I think you ought to experience Rolex ownership if for no other reason than to have a context for future decision making. You may perform this experiment with confidence with Rolex, by the way — if a year from now you have decided you do not care for it after all, you will find you can sell it for not much less than you paid for it; and having lost almost no money, you have gained some valuable (horological) experience into the bargain.

Categories
Luxury Watch

Introducing the Replica Rolex Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master 40

Rolex is an innovative brand that comes up with new technology and its own language to the delight of its clients. The patented replica  watch terminology has been injected into the Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master 40.Rolesor, Everose, Perpetual, Cyclope, Oysterlock, Chromalight…

rolex-oyster-perpetual-yacht-master-40-white-wn

Cyclope is the magnifying glass in the sapphire crystal over the chocolate dial that allows you to read the date with ease. Oysterlock applies to the ultra-secure lock on the strap. Last but not least, Chromalight is the luminescent coating on the geometric hour markers and three central hands.
Rolesor Everose describes the combination of steel (body and crown) and Everose rose gold (rotating bezel with raised graduation) on the 40mm case. Perpetual is the name of the rotor that fuels the self-winding 3135 calibre and its 48-hour power reserve.
etual-yacht-master-40-wn
This piece is COSC and Rolex Superlative Chronometer-certified.

Categories
Hands-on Luxury Watch Swiss Replica Vacheron Constantin Replica

Vacheron Constantin Introduces Traditionnelle Day-Date And Power Reserve Limited Edition Only For North America (specs price)

Today is the 4th of July, an important day for US Citizens and US-related people. Not that the replica watch we’re about to show you has been especially developed for this reason, but it has just been introduced and it is a limited edition for North America only. Indeed, we thought it could be a nice gift for our US readers, and we know they are numerous. So for you, here is the new Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Day-Date and Power Reserve Limited Edition for North America only, which replaces its usual plain silvery-white dial (found on the pink gold and the Excellence Platine) for a nice black guilloche dial.A. Lange & Sohne Replica

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Day-Date And Power Reserve Limited Edition Only For North America

This replica watch indeed “only” displays the date and the day of the week, which will already be practical and enough for most of us. Add to that a power reserve indicator and you’ll have a replica watch that boasts an interesting complex display. Previously available in pink gold with an opaline dial and in platinum with a solid platinum dial, the Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Day-Date And Power Reserve will now be offered in a third edition, but for North America only – and highly limited.

The Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Day-Date And Power Reserve, which sits in the Traditionnelle collection, meaning replica watches with a classical and restrained elegance, however with complicated movements, is the first door to the “calendar heaven” at Vacheron – an easier and more accessible solution, compared to the ultra-high-end perpetual calendars, perpetual calendars with chronograph or perpetual calendars with tourbillon.

This black guilloche edition of the The Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Day-Date and Power Reserve is made for North America boutiques only and limited to 30 pieces, priced at $45,000. More on Vacheron Constantin official.

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Day-Date And Power Reserve Limited Edition Only For North America

 

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Day-Date And Power Reserve Limited Edition Only For North America

The Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Day-Date and Power Reserve Limited Edition for North America Only is powered by the same movement as the 2 other editions, meaning the “Hallmark of Geneva” certified calibre 2475, an automatic movement with approximately 40 hours of power reserve. As you can expect, its execution is superb, with a solid 22k gold engraved rotor, Geneva stripes and polished chamfers on the bridges or steel parts with straight graining. This nice finishing is also applied on the dial side of the movement, even if not visible – we could easily imagine a skeletonized edition considering the beauty of the dial side…

For the 30 pieces produced, Vacheron Constantin chose a striking combination of black dial with pink gold case – the case measuring 39.50mm x 10.65mm – with gold accents on the dial. Not the most discreet combination for sure, but one that always perfectly work. The dial here is obtained after a guilloche process – engine-turned dial for English speakers – done by hand, by trained craftsmen. Using an ancient technique, the dial is mounted on rotating lathe, and a cutting tool removes material by reproducing a motif found on a larger-scaled model. This dial shows here a wave pattern. The display is clear and complete, with the hours, minutes and seconds in the center, while the date comes at 3, giving echo to the day at 9. The power reserve finally comes, slightly off-centered, in the lower part the dial.

 


Specifications of the Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Day-Date and Power Reserve

  • Case: 39.50mm diameter x 10.65mm height – 18k pink gold – sapphire crystal on front and back – 30m water resistant
  • Movement: Calibre 2475 – automatic – 40h power reserve – 28,800 vibrations/h – hours, minutes, seconds, day, date, power reserve
  • Strap: black alligator leather strap with 18k gold pin buckle
Categories
Military Watch

A Brief Introduction of Military Watches

As far as myself and my friends go we are purely collectors and enthusiasts but figured it is worth putting something together so other people with an interest in military watches can get a general background to the various watches favoured by the military, police, security industry and special forces. This site unlike most you visit is not going to try and sell you anything which probably makes a change! For me personally (Ian) I have a tendency to buy either military watches or something which is not actually military but has a pedigree and the looks of a military watch for example my IWC MK XVI which definately has the pedigree or alternatively a G-Shock which I own that is ideal for heavy duty use and can survive almost anything I throw at it. What is important to consider is that even if governments could afford the leading brands issued by countries such as the UK and Germany in the past it would not make economic sense when the models from Citizen, MWC, Pulsar, Seiko and Marathon are just as suitable and vastly cheaper.Most of the watches we own live in display cases but my friends and myself periodically use most of them. Of course no armed forces today could afford to issue a watch of the quality of the Rolex, Omega and IWC models of the past and even CWC is becoming too costly for most  UK MOD contracts, as a point of interest in many countries they tend to leave the troops to source their own watches and hopefully this site will be helpful to them too to ensure they get something that is fit for purpose.

watch

Of course for my friends and myself it’s a simple case that we often like a particular watch and add it to our collections then spend two weeks arguing over the merits and drawbacks of the particular model in the local bar! I still can’t figure why I have 27 watches when I always wear either the IWC, Rolex Deep Sea or the MWC classic Aviator which is very robust and a damn site cheaper than the IWC which it resembles to a degree but is much larger at 47mm excluding the crown where the IWC is only 39mm so I use  the MWC day to day and it survives well which is the primary consideration also the Rolex gets a lot of use too. Of course the watches are one thing but straps are another area of interest to military watch enthusiasts and it is also an area which is seeing an ever increasing variety of variants. As for me personally I have a tendency to use NATO straps and one of the first things I did with my own IWC XVI was put it on a NATO strap which I have favoured since my time in the military!

I think it looks great but my wife favoured the original calf leather strap. The other watch I use in extreme situations which would not suit any of the others is the Casio G-Shock DW6900MS which although not a military watch as such is certainly fit for purpose and popular with serving military. I think the attraction my friends and myself have to military watches is because the look is very distinctive and striking, most having black dials and luminescent numerals and hands with either Tritium light sources or Superluminova. Another factor is we are all ex military or in some way connected to the military or police and again this pushes us towards our interests not just in the watches but other military kit such as image intensifiers and vehicles.

I am often asked which military watch is my all time favourite  and I can answer that it has to be the IWC MK XI below. To me this embodies everything from looking right to being a high end well made product with a leading brand name. It is generally accepted as the most desirable military watch of all time but you will certainly need deep pockets to buy one these days although 18 years ago $600 would have secured a nice one now you can reckon with $4000 – $5000.

If I am asked which model it the hardest wearing its the Casio G-Shock DW6900MS below which whilst not a thing of great beauty is highly functional and has masses of features for a very low price. I think the Casio will be quite desirable in year to come because so many serving military tend to use them.

Returning to the historical models some of the most collectible military watch are British, German and American issue although many are actually Swiss made. The British army/navy/RAF models from IWC, Record, Cyma, Omega, Jaeger le Coultre, Lemania and Rolex are especially collectable and from the US, Elgin, Waltham and Bulova. Among other watches I have become aware of recently which are in huge demand is the Heuer (now Tag Heuer) German Luftwaffe Chronograph from the 1970s. Something that really caught my eye at an auction in Los Angeles was a Breitling Navitimer which was Iraqi Air Force issue this watch was a 1980’s Navitimer that Saddam Hussein issued to his pilots.  The watch was engraved on the case back with the air force insignia. I wonder what it went for? Whatever it was it was certainly not going to have been cheap!

The history of Military watches, as their name implies lies in the fact they were specifically developed for use by the armed forces. The first military watches were made for use on warships. It was the WWII that really moved things along with various high quality cockpit clocks (Borduhren in German) emerging from companies such as IWC and Junghans this site is worth a look it has cockpit clocks and all sorts of odds and ends  In the case of Navigator watch design timing was critical, the seconds bezel allowed the pilot to synchronize the second hand with correct and exact reference time before takeoff, and to make manual corrections to radio time signals while in flight, thus eliminating any “chronometer error” and the navigational errors that could result.

Split second timing and high degrees of accuracy continued to be vital in both military technology and military watches. The hack feature was developed enabling two or more military watches to be synchronised hence you will often hear the words in military films “synchronise watches”

watch

Strangely the US tended to opt for smaller watches which were often as small as 30mm where Germany went for face sizes of  55mm or more, in fact the current IWC Pilots model The IWC Big Pilot watch is perhaps the ultimate mans sport watch on the market today. In fact to call it a sports watch is an injustice since the Big Pilot Watch is really a genuine Pilots timepiece. IWC first developed Pilot’s Watches in the 1930’s, launching the initial model in 1936. Early aviation pioneers all faced the same problem when it came to measuring the time. Pilots relied on oversized pocket watches to track their flight time and fuel consumption, but these pocket watches were cumbersome and difficult to access meaning they frequenty worked on guesstimates – far from ideal but compare it with today’s nightmare of  finding your cellphone when its ringing in a pocket when you are driving at 100mph (160kph) plus (only where laws allow of course!) and you get the idea.

IWC attacked the problem by taking the pocket watch and designing a version that would fit on the pilot’s wrist over his flight suit. The first version of the Pilot watch was massive as we saw above. IWC designed a 55mm case with a black dial, high-contrast luminous hands, and a rotating glass bezel. This glass bezel had an arrow which the pilot used to measure flight time. Pilots attached the watch to their wrist using an oversized long leather strap.

Today the Big Pilot’s watch is smaller than the original version but still massive compared to other large sport or pilot watches on the market.  Measuring 46.2 mm IWC’s Big Pilot watch is similar to the original in appearance with the original black dial design but they have added a date window at six o’clock and a power reserve indicator at three o’clock. With a seven day power reserve the Big Pilot Watch is in a class of its own.

Interestingly in light of supplies to the RAF it is worth noting that in Japan Seiko produced a huge number of military watches for the Japanese Army, Airforce and Navy in WWII. These watches were also very large especially when you consider the heigt of the average Japanese soldier at the time. These watches averaged around 49mm in diameter.

The Cold War 1945-1990

Toward the end of WWII with the advent of the Jet age accuracy and performance demands grew rapidly. To highlight the extent of this  we need to look at the fact that a Lockheed Starfighter  F- 104G from the 1950s was capable of 2334 km/h (1458mph) the fastest plane to see general service in WWII (excluding the Rocket Powered Messerschmitt Komet at 960km/h (600mph) was the Messerschmitt ME262 Jet Fighter with a top speed of 870 km/h  (543mph) already advances in speed had been significant  only 4 years before aircraft such as the Hawker Hurricane and Messerschmitt 109 were capable of speeds between  520km/h and 570 km/h (325/360mph) depending on the exact version of the aircraft . The increases in aircraft performance over such a short space of time mean’t that Chronographs and other precision instruments were vital.

The Cold War military watches were much larger in size than the average American navigators timepieces  before them. Averaging 36mm in diameter they has reached the same dimensions which are familiar today. These hand-wound watches were expected to be water-resistant to 20 feet, including water-resistance under low-pressure at operational altitudes. Nearly all of these Cold War models were Swiss Made except for exceptions like the British Made Smith’s W10 which has the distinction of being the last mechanical watch actually manufacturer in the United Kingdom for supply to the military. These Smith’s W10’s were everywhere in the early to mid 1990’s at reasonable prices but are now hard to find at a reasonable price.

After these watches the W10 pattern was manufactured by CWC, Hamilton and MWC. Hamilton ceased production in the early 1970’s and production was continued by Cabot Watch Co better know by the initials CWC. The CWC W10 is still
made today by CWC and MWC also continue to manufacture this model in hand wound variants. The CWC and MWC have both been made in automatic variants but currently neither are available.
At this point the story pretty much ends because we now come to the watches we are all familiar with. Albeit in earlier variants but from the late 1970s onwards the watches took on the form we recognise today with some changes such as the introduction of Self Luminous Tritium Vials (GTLS) etc but in appearance they have changed little in the last 30 years. There are of course some non issue models such as G-Shock favoured by serving military which are very contemporary in appearance but the standard G10 looks much as it did in 1980.

Anyway browse the site and if you can think of anything interesting that we can add that would be of interest to collectors about a watch you know or own just send the details in and we would be glad to include it with the appropriate acknowledgment if you wish. Just send me a quick email to ian.crowley@military-watches.net

Categories
Hands-on Luxury Watch Men Watch Rolex Replica Swiss Replica

Rolex Day-Date 60th Anniversary Edition Releases

Of course, we all know about the Rolex Day-Date, not only because it is one of the brand’s most emblematic and most prestigious models, not only because it exists for decades, not only because of its sculptural, rather ostentatious look, not only because of its highly legible, copied thousands of times display of the day and date but also because it has been the replica watch worn by heads of industries, presidents, visionaries and leaders.

“The Rolex Day-Date is named the “President’s Replica Watch” because Presidents Kennedy, Johnson, Ford, Reagan, Nixon and Roosevelt were all wearers of this icon”

Never a replica watch had such a representation amongst the elites. Iconic wouldn’t summarize this replica watch, which celebrates this year its 60th anniversary. And to honor this, here is the Rolex Day-Date 60th Anniversary Edition with Green dial, ref. 228235 and ref. 228239.

A brief history of the Rolex Day-Date

1956 Rolex Day Date 6511, First Edition

The first model of the Rolex Day-Date lineage, the Ref. 6511, from 1956

The Rolex Day-Date, even more luxurious than the Datejust, as (almost) only available in precious metals, gained an unexpected aura, and a nickname: the President’s Replica Watch. This is due to one man, President Eisenhower. The 5-Star General then President has been a strong ambassador of the brand, since Rolex had reportedly given him a Day-Date – some sources state that it was actually a Datejust on a President bracelet – several photos who’s him wearing a Rolex Datejust, which also happened to be the 150,000th officially certified Rolex. What is certain though is that several following US Presidents have been wearers of this replica watch, such as Kennedy, Johnson, Ford, Reagan, Nixon and Roosevelt. The legend was born.

In 1945 Rolex launched the Datejust, making a crucial innovation: placing the date in a window at 3, printed on a jumping disc, with a quick date mechanism, meaning that the date was always just – that might seem rather simple today, as most replica watches do feature such a complication, but at that time, it was more than significant. This replica watch became immediately a success, by achieving a perfect mix between casual wearability and luxurious attitude. 11 years later, in 1956, Rolex added a new complication to this replica watch, the display of the day, visible in a circular cut-out in the dial at 12 (a feature that is still today part of the model).

The first Rolex Day-Date was the ref. 6511, a replica watch with already all the iconic features of the actual editions, such as the display with date at 3 and day at 12 or the fluted bezel. This replica watch had a short life, as replaced the year after by ref. 6611, introducing a new movement, the 1055 (you can already recognize the xx55 Rolex nomenclature for Day-Date complication). The following evolution came in 1959, with the ref. 1803, using calibre 1555, and showing an updated design, following the other Rolex models, with cleaner dials, hands and indexes.

rolex day-date historic overview

From left to right, ref. 6511, ref. 6611, ref. 18xx and ref. 18xxx

 This replica watch has been replaced in 2015 by a superb edition, with smaller (40mm), slimmer and more elegant case and with brand new, innovative movement, calibre 3255. This is this exact replica watch that is used as a base for the 60th anniversary Edition we’re about to show you.

The Rolex Day-Date 60th Anniversary Edition Green Dial

Rolex Day-Date 60th Anniversary Edition Green Dial - Ref. 228235

Here it is, the jubilee (pun-intended) version of the President’s replica watch. It’s not so usual for Rolex to do commemorative replica watches or to have limited editions. Of course, this replica watch won’t change the rule. It is not limited, not numbered or not officially exclusive. So don’t see it as an investment piece. However, be sure that it won’t be common anyway. You probably won’t see may of them around, which makes it of course even more desirable. For this Day-Date 60th anniversary, Rolex plays with all the iconic features of the brand: applied Roman numerals, fluted bezel, President bracelet, gold case and finally, and that’s what makes this replica watch so special, a dial bearing Rolex’s hallmark color, dark green.

This Rolex Day-Date 60th Anniversary keeps all the great attributes of its normal siblings, which clearly won’t make us sad. The new dial is great looking for sure, even if not the most discreet. But that’s a matter of tastes. Its exclusivity will for sure make it rather collectible. It will be available in Everose Gold (Ref. 228235) and in White Gold (228239). Price is 34,400 Euros (inc. VAT).

A important evolution came with the ref. 18xxx, which, in 1977, introduced the quick date feature. Instead of continuously turning the crown to reach the desired date, an adjustment was possible by the second position of the crown, only affecting the date display. End of the 1980s, the Rolex Day-Date received its most famous movement, the 3155 (which is still use today in the 36mm version), with “Double Quick Set”. Then, in 2008, Rolex followed the trend for larger replica watches, introducing next to the traditional 36mm version, a Day-Date II with 41mm case.

Rolex Day-Date 60th Anniversary Edition Green Dial - Ref. 228235

Green is of course THE color of the brand. On the Rolex Day-Date 60th Anniversary, this green dial is combined with Everose gold or White gold for all the parts of the dial, and matching with the case’s material. The hands, the inscription, the applied logo at 12 and the indexes are all in rose or white gold, creating an interesting contrast with the green dial. Talking about the numerals, Rolex chose to use here the newly introduced, highly sculptural Roman numerals, faceted and stylized. To be honest, they are just splendid and perfectly manufactured. They give a great depth to the dial and play with light reflections. Of course, some will prefer more discreet batons, but on this 60th anniversary edition, this option is not possible.

Rolex Day-Date 60th Anniversary Edition Green Dial - Ref. 228235

 

Rolex Day-Date 60th Anniversary Edition Green Dial - Ref. 228235

Inside the case is the brand’s new calibre, the 3255, which features multiple improvements. The 3255 consumes less energy (thanks to the new Chronergy escapement) and stores more into its barrel (with larger spring than before). As a result, the power reserve jumps to 70 hours. It features a variable-inertia balance wheel with the Parachrom spiral for both a very high accuracy and a good resistance to magnetic fields. The gear train and the lubricants have been improved for more durability and finally, the finishing of the parts is nicer than before. Just like all Rolex replica watches since 2015, the movement is certified “Superlative Chronometer” and runs into -2/+2 seconds / day and is now guaranteed to 5 years.

For the rest, the Rolex Day-Date 60th Anniversary is totally identical to the replica watch Rolex introduced at Baselworld 2015. We find back the slimmer, more elegant and slightly smaller 40mm case. The bezel, of course fluted to respect the tradition of the model, is also better proportioned than on the Day-Date II, giving the entire replica watch a more balanced look. The second update concerns the bracelet, which goes back to the “President” look – 3 half-rounded links alternating polished and satined surfaces. The new version of the bracelet is now integrated to the case and features ceramic inserts into the links, for more flexibility and durability (again the search for reliability so dear to Rolex).

Rolex Day-Date 60th Anniversary Edition Green Dial - Ref. 228235

 


Specifications of the Rolex Day-Date 60th Anniversary

  • Case: 40mm – Everose (pink) gold or white gold – sapphire crystal on front – 100m water resistant
  • Movement: calibre 3255 – automatic – 70h power reserve – 28,800 vibrations/h – hours, minutes, date and day of the week
  • Bracelet: solid gold President bracelet with hidden folding clasp
  • Ref. 228235 (rose gold) and ref. 228239 (white gold)
Categories
A. Lange & Söhne Replica Dress Watch Hands-on Men Watch Swiss Replica

A. LANGE & SÖHNE Debuts Saxonia Boutique Edition GreyDial

WW15ALSSaxonia2

Late last year A. Lange and Söhne added two new models to their entry level piece, the Saxonia, which had been given a small cosmetic revamp at SIHH 2015 into a smaller 35mm piece as well as a slightly amended dial aesthetic in terms of hour and minute markers. These two new models came in the form of a new solid silver dark grey dial Boutiqe Edition, and the size has been increased from 35mm to 37mm (7.8mm thick), a size that is perhaps is more in fitting with current dress replica watch size and will broaden its appeal.www.repliqueparfaite.fr

Inside the replica watch is the manual-wind Calibre L941.1 (the same as for the other Saxonia) with a power reserve of 45 hours. The hand-finished movement displays Lange characteristics such as the hand-engraved balance cock.

The Saxonia collection seems to receive less publicity than other Langes, perhaps in part because they are their ‘entry’ replica watches, but there is no rational reason for their relative lack of fanfare, as they bear the Lange hallmarks and quality of finishing. For those who are looking to get into the brand, these are attractive propositions.

Available in either pink gold or white gold, we had the chance to take a few photos of the former. The white gold version comes with rhodiumed hands.

Both versions are available exclusively from the sixteen A. Lange & Söhne boutiques; prices are USD16,600 for this pink gold version and USD17,800 for the white gold model.

Categories
Calendar Watch Hands-on Men Watch Swiss Replica Vacheron Constantin Replica

VACHERON CONSTANTIN Presents Two new Patrimony Traditionelle WorldTime

When Vacheron Constantin introduced its Patrimony Traditionnelle World Time it was the first mechanical replica watch that showed the time in 37 time zones (most world timer replica watches feature 24 time zones),  along with a day/ night indication courtesy of the shading on the map. Moreover, it was also notable on its release for the fact that there is only one crown for making all adjustments.

You may recollect an earlier post about one of Vacheron’s most well-known contemporary pieces, the 37 time zone Traditionelle World Time, in pink gold. A couple of months ago they brought out another 18K 5N pink gold version but this time with a pink gold dial, plus an 18K white gold version.

A quick recap of the dial and functionality.

The display consists of three dials: a sapphire dial with the rotating day/night indication shading (18:00-06:00 being the darkened area), a metal dial with a Lambert projection map, and a metal chapter ring. To use it, you choose the reference point and put it at the black triangle at 6 o’clock. The time at the reference point can then be read either via the traditional hour or by the 24-hour disc, and the other time zones via the disc. The cities in black text are the full time zones, whilst the cities in red text are half or quarter-hour zones. It is all operated/ adjusted via a single crown.

 

The main novelty of this new edition of the Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle World Time is its dial and the map. Previously painted in blue and white as per the link in the first paragraph, the map is now made of solid gold, 3D-engraved, and with raised continents with a sun-brushed finish and sand-blasted seas. A geometric pattern on the top helps to locate the 24 main time-zones. The inked 24-hour ring has also been redesigned, with a darkened area from 18:30 to 06:30.

The rest is the same. Inside is Vacheron Constantin’s in-house designed/ developed/ manufactured Calibre 2460WT automatic movement with a gold oscillating weight, 28,800 VPH and a forty-hour power reserve. The movement itself is a rather significant 36.60mm, which means that the replica watch case is 42.5mm.

Johann Heinrich Lambert was a German/French mathematician and scientist who in 1772 released his Conformal Conic (LCC) projection in his publication ‘Anmerkungen und Zusätze zur Entwerfung der Land- und Himmelscharten’. Today the Lambert Conformal Conic projection has become a standard projection for mapping large areas (small scale) in the mid-latitudes – such as USA, Europe and Australia.

What the LCC does is to set a cone over the Earth’s sphere and project the surface onto the cone, which is then ‘unrolled’ and scaled, with scale decreasing between the two parallels and increasing outside them.

As mentioned at the outset, as well as this model Vacheron Constantin also released a new 18k white gold version at the fair, with a white gold dial.

Again, the basic specifications are the same with this new model, the differences lie in the metal and the dial.

Changes in colours (and textures) can completely change the look of a replica watch, and much of the replica watch world is about providing choices that are variations along a basic theme. These new dials have their appeal (especially the pink gold version, which is rather elegant) but for me, the original pips these at the post. I have suspicions that this may be because of an unconscious perhaps rather conservative predilection towards blue for projection maps on replica watch dials.

 

For more information on both, click here, and now it’s time for all of these time zones to make their way into 2016 one by one.

See you on the flipside.

[Horologium attended Replica Watches & Wonders 2015 by invitation of Richemont Australia]

Categories
Hands-on Men Watch Piaget Replica Swiss Replica Technical Watch

Introducing Piaget Emperador Coussin XL700P

In a rather unexpected segue from their normally mechanical men’s novelties, at SIHH 2016 Piaget has launched a replica watch to commemorate the 40th anniversary of its first in-house quartz movement, the ultra-thin 7P calibre, called the Emperador Coussin XL 700P.www.repliqueparfaite.fr

Its roots hark back to 1976 and the in-house 7P quartz movement, but this new movement is a very different proposition; an ultra-thin example of their first use of such a hybrid. Patents have been filed (and for those interested, it is probably worth comparing these patents with those of Seiko’s) and it is the result of two years of research and development. Unlike what Seiko is prone to doing, however, there is no seconds hand in this piece.

However this is not, as more commonly seen in their women’s pieces, just any old quartz replica watch. It is probably best described as being akin to what Seiko does with the hybrid mechanical-quartz Spring Drive. Piaget have called it a generator-regulated mechanical movement.

The new automatic hybrid movement has a 32’768 Hz frequency controls the rotation of the generator and wheels train. The generator produces a charge, sufficient to power the electronics, which then controls the rate at which the gear train runs. It has 32 jewels and a power reserve of forty-two hours. The movement is black-coated, as mentioned ultra-thin (5.5mm), and is finished with circular Côtes de Genève, circular-grained mainplate, bevelled bridges, engraved rotor with the Piaget coat-of-arms, and silvered screws. Generator and micro-rotor underlined with polished white gold.

When I first read about this replica watch last month at its pre-SIHH 2016 announcement I wasn’t quite sure that I ‘got’ it in the sense of ‘why’. Design-wise in terms of aesthetics it’s attractive, although some might say the disc on the front is superfluous decoratively-speaking. It does, however, give an aesthetic nod to its mechanical older siblings.

That they’ve put this much effort into this replica watch, both in terms of its R&D and the profile it has assumed in terms of being a new launch, is one of the most interesting things about its existence. Surely this cannot be a one-off use, so what does this mean for potential new models?

The case itself is also white gold, and is 46.5mm with a black DLC bezel. The skeletonised dial is attractive and has many of the design cues familiar to Emperadors, along with silvered indices and hands. It comes on a black alligator strap with a matching 18 carat white gold folding clasp.

 

In the meantime, this one comes in a limited edition of 118 pieces and comes on a black alligator strap with an 18 carat white gold folding clasp.

Categories
Baume & Mercier Replica Calendar Watch Feature Hands-on Men Watch Swiss Replica

SIHH 2016 : Presenting Baume & Mercier Clifton Chronograph CompleteCalendar

They are classic timepieces which contain solid movements, and are versatile. Now, Baume have added another complication to the range – meet the Clifton Chronograph Complete Calendar. This is not the first Clifton featuring a calendar feature; for example there was the Retrograde Date and Big Date, but is a new combination.

So let’s look at the dial, which is, in keeping with the brand and this collection, classically laid out. The layout will also hint at the inside, for those famliiar with such things.

In recent years Baume & Mercier’s Clifton range has entrenched its position as ‘the’ collection for those wishing to enter the world of luxury replica watches via Baume.

Baume & Mercier have decided to emphasie legibility at a glance by using different coloured hands for different indications. The time is as per convention, with the two hands on the central axis, and a small seconds sub dial at 9 o’clock with rhodiumed hands. There is also a day/ night indicator at 9 o’clock and a 24 hour scale with a gilt hand. The hand with the arrow-tipped point on the central axis points to the date, there are two windows at 12 o’clock with the day of the week and month, and a moonphase at 6 o’clock.

Now for the chronograph function, which is indicated by the blued hands with its seconds noted by a long blued hand. The 30-minute counter is at 12 o’clock and the 12-hour counter is at 6 o’clock circling the moon.

The rest of the dial is faithful to the Clifton replica watches, with silvery white main-plate and metallic applied indices.

Coming on a alligator straps, these are replica watches that aren’t about pretending to be anything other than what they are – replica watches to be used for functionality and not fashion, and for longevity. For those wanting to enter the world of luxury replica watches and want something with more than one useful function on it, this is another classic offering from Baume & Mercier.

Inside the usual Clifton 43mm case is the automatic Valjoux 7751 (what I mentioned at the outset about the dial layout hinting at the movement, for those who are interested or know such things) finished with an engraved rotor, adorned with Geneva stripes, blue screws and perlage on the mainplate and bridges.