Categories
Zenith Replica

Hands-on with the Replica Zenith El Primero 410 Triple Calendar and MoonPhase now in blue with price (and cool cufflinks)

The Zenith El Primero is a very nice replica watch. There no point of disagreement for us. And when it comes with a triple calendar and a moon phase, displayed in a ‘vintage’ style and legible layout, it become an even better replica watch. This timepiece is called the Zenith El Primero 410 and for Baselworld 2015, it comes in a new limited edition with a cool blue dial (yes, blue is again is very popular this year). In addition, because we’re proper replica watch nerds here at Monochrome, we found something cool to match with this replica watch: matching solid silver hand-made cufflinks depicting the El Primero.

Zenith El Primero 410 Triple Calendar MoonPhase Blue - 4

A bit of history…

The Zenith El Primero movement was revealed in 1969. It was at that time the first – or to be precise and not to engage long fights between collectors – one of the first automatic chronograph movement – together with the Heuer-Breitling-Hamilton-Buren Calibre 11 and the Seiko 6139. Even experts do not entirely agree on who was first and there are quite a few factors that count: developing, patenting, introducing, producing, delivering… whatever, the replica Zenith El Primero was and still is one of the greatest chronograph movements ever made. Compared to the 2 others, it has some unique and very likable features. It is an integrated movement (that is also the case of the Seiko; the Calibre 11 is a modular movement) with a central rotor (as Seiko, the Calibre 11 has a micro-rotor) with a column wheel (as Seiko, the Calibre 11 has a cam mechanism). What’s specific though? Compared to the 2 competitors, it was the only and still is one of the few chronograph movements to come with an escapement that vibrates at 36,000 vibrations per hour, or 10 ticks per second. It’s a so-called high-beat movement – that is supposed to be more precise.

Zenith El Primero 410 Triple Calendar MoonPhase Blue - 5

Since its introduction in 1969, the movement is still (mor or less) the same and shares the same architecture and the same specifications. What about the triple calendar 410 edition? In fact, it’s also a vintage-inspired replica watch – a very rare one – but this layout existed as a prototype. Before Zenith launched the Limited Edition of the Zenith El Primero 410 in 2013, they found back one of the very few Triple Calendar El Primero available on the market, then justifying the introduction of the new Zenith El Primero 410. An example of this replica watch – one of an estimated production of 25 pieces – had been sold in May 2012 by Christies for 37.500 Swiss Francs – of course bought by Zenith themselves.

The new blue dial Zenith El Primero 410 Triple Calendar and MoonPhase

After a slate grey limited edition in 2013 (with two stars on the dial besides the day and month apertures), followed in 2014 by a non-limited edition, the Zenith El Primero 410 (without the stars on the dial, with a white dial and available in steel and in gold), it’s now a new 1975-piece limited edition that Zenith introduces at Baselworld 2015, with a cool blue dial.

Zenith El Primero 410 Triple Calendar MoonPhase Blue - 1 Zenith El Primero 410 Triple Calendar MoonPhase Blue - 7 Zenith El Primero 410 Triple Calendar MoonPhase Blue - 8

Technically speaking, no novelties here. The Zenith El Primero 410 remains untouched – something we won’t blame Zenith for – with this faithful and legible layout for the calendar. On this replica watch, we’re in front of what we call a triple calendar or a full calendar, meaning a mechanism that displays the date, the day of the week and the month. However, it’s a rather simple system, as it doesn’t take into account the month with 30-31 days, thus being far more simple than an annual calendar or a perpetual calendar. However, with its date window at 4:30, the day window at 10 and the month window at 2, the Zenith El Primero 410 looks really good, especially because none of these indications step over the chronograph sub-counters – except the moon-phase that is inserted discreetly in the hour-counter at 6.

Zenith El Primero 410 Triple Calendar MoonPhase Blue - 2

The case is still made of stainless steel, alternating polished and brushed surfaces and measuring a quite large 42mm. It is coming on a dark blue alligator strap with deployant buckle. From the back we can observe the iconic El Primero movement, with its classical finish – meaning the rotor with a large star (emblem of the brand), some blued screws, straight graining on the steel parts (levers and gears) and circular graining on the main-plate. The main novelty is though on the face of the replica watch, that now comes with a deep blue dial featuring a sunburst pattern and polished applied indexes, matching the hands. The Zenith El Primero 410 Triple Calendar and MoonPhase in blue will made in 1975 pieces and priced around 8.500 Euros.

Zenith El Primero 410 Triple Calendar MoonPhase Blue - 6

Some specifications:

  • Movement: Zenith El Primero 410, automatic winding, 50-hours of power reserve, 390 components, 31 jewels, 36,000 vibrations per hour (5Hz)
  • Functions: chronograph with 30-minute and 12-hour register, day of the week, date, month and moon phase
  • Case: stainless steel, 42 mm in diameter, 12.75mm in height, box-shaped sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on both sides, sapphire crystal in case back, water resistant to 50 meters
  • Dial: blue with sunray-pattern, Rhodium-plated indexes and hands, faceted and coated with SuperLuminova SLN C1
  • Strap: blue alligator leather strap with protective rubber lining and a stainless steel buckle with triple folding clasp

About the solid silver hand-made cufflinks

BRI_6719

These cuff links were made by Baz Persaud, a NY-based artist, who creates so-called “lost wax” cuff links. These have been made with permission from Zenith and actually makes the combination even better. The cufflinks start at $395 USD and are always hand-made limited editions.

Lost Wax process 

It starts by making a hand-sculpted cuff link from a block of wax, which is used to create a mold. During this process of pouring and drying the mold, the original wax sculpture melts away leaving only the newly formed mold in its place. Essentially, the original model is destroyed in the process of creating the jeweler’s mold that is used to produce the end product. Hence, it is called, the “lost wax” technique.

With the jeweler’s mold, a new rubber mold is created, which will be injected with hot wax. And than the process starts over again, to be repeated as many times as needed (for instance a limited edition of 50 cufflinks, will need 100 molds). The jewelers mold will be filled with Sterling silver, which will be cleaned and finished by hand, and ultimately Rhodium plated.

Check out Baz Persaud “lost wax” cufflinks depicting Zenith El Primero Chronomaster and the Zenith El Primero 410 on his Instagram account or his website: bazpersaud.com

Categories
Zenith Replica

HANDS-ON : Replica Zenith Captain PowerReserve

ZenithPowerReserve1

The full name of today’s replica watch is in fact the Zenith Captain Elite Power Reserve. The ‘Elite’ of the name refers to the movement inside, the automatic Elite 685 calibre, and the luxury replica watch fits firmly within the traditionally designed Captain collection. However, this is not Zenith’s first power reserve model of this type, there was one in 2011 featuring the same movement.

The current power reserve model has the same basic dial configuration as its predecessor, with a power reserve indicator in the first quadrant, date at six o’clock and seconds sub-dial at nine o’clock. However, they are quite different design-wise, not just because of the absence of the guilloché dial. The power reserve indicator is more minimalist, its restraint and simplicity of the dial leading to a very different dress replica watch to its 2011 predecessor.

In the end it is a matter of personal taste, but in comparing the two, but I am more drawn to the newer version, finding the cleaner lines and uniformity of the silvery dial surface more elegant. However, the paring back of information on the power reserve indicator means that the ‘50’ representing the total power reserve is no longer there.

The new Captain Elite Power reserve comes in both pink gold and stainless steel.

Sometimes, the Zenith dress replica watches appear to be overshadowed by the more high profile sports models or the high-end achievements of the Christoph Colombs. However, for admirers of the Zenith brand, its movements and its history, but who are looking for something more dressy, the Captain collection is worth taking a look at.

Categories
Zenith Replica

PRE-BASEL 2014 : Replica Zenith’s Pilot Montre d’Aéronef Type 20 GMT1903

ZenithPilotType20 GMT1903q

In the run-up to Baselworld brands will often issue pre-releases of new replica watches, before an official Baselworld launch. Today’s offering from Zenith is one such luxury replica watch, a piece that I had the opportunity to look at in Geneva in January.

On 17 December 1903 the intrepid Wright brothers Wilbur and Orville made the first self-powered aircraft flight. In honour of this flight, Zenith have released a special LE of their Type 20 from the ‘Pilot’ Collection dedicated to the brothers.

The Pilot Montre d’Aeronef Type 20 GMT 1903 is based on the Pilot Montre D’Aeronef Type 20 GMT model. At 48mm with a thickness of 15.80mm this is a bulky replica watch in DLC-coated titanium with a large ratcheted crown, as is typical of pilot’s replica watches.

Inside the replica watch is the in-house made Zenith Elite calibre 693 automatic movement with a power reserve of about 50 hours. Functionally, there is the time, a seconds sub-dial, and a big clear red-tipped second time zone indicator hand that is adjusted via a large pusher on the left of the case.

To reference its 1903 inspiration, Zenith have created an ‘aged’ look to the numerals which are on e black dial, that has been sand-blasted five times to give it a great matte look. The hour markers are Super-LumiNova Old Radium and the hands, black ruthenium, satin-finished with Super-LumiNova SLN Old Radium. If you look at photographs of vintage Zenith flight instruments from the late 1930s, you can immediately see that the design is faithful to it, and that the attempt to ‘age’ it also looks remarkably like how original numerals look now, through the natural ageing process.

As you can see, there are two strap options in one, including a Bund-style one that is vintage-effect nubuck heat-embossed with the “Zenith Flying Instruments” logo. The effort put into decorating this strap makes it special, something beyond just a token ‘vintage’ nod by putting this style of strap on a replica watch. Interestingly, it is actually also the more comfortable of the two straps.

It may be 48mm but feels closer to some 45mm replica watches, and being titanium black DLC reduces the weight significantly. The replica watch’s large size also seems smaller on the supple soft Bund when it’s wrapped around your wrist.

At first glance I wasn’t that taken with the 1903 but as I played a bit with it, spent some time with it, and then tried it on my wrist, it really grew on me.

The caseback is engraved with the Wright brother’s plane, but is discreet in its references (and limited nature).


It comes in a limited edition of 1,903 pieces, with the number appearing on a plate screwed to the side of the case.

Categories
Zenith Replica

Introducing the Zenith El Primero 410 Triple Calendar and Moon Phase

Last year Zenith introduced the El Primero 410 Limited Edition, which revived a collector’s favorite from some years ago: the El Primero Chronomaster. This year they bring us a non-limited edition of this classic in a modern 42mm size, but with all the classic looks that made us love it in the first place. Here is the Zenith El Primero 410 with Triple Calendar and Moon Phase. 

Last year’s El Primero 410 L.E. already introduced the new looks that also apply on this year’s version. That one was limited to 500 pieces, had a slate grey dial and two stars on the dial besides the day and month apertures. This year’s non-limited El Primero 410 does not feature these two stars and comes with a silver dial, however the rest is similar.

Zenith El Primero 410

The current day El Primero Chronomaster distincts itself from the El Primero collection, by a large aperture in the dial revealing the entire escapement. That was different on the “old” El Primero Chronomaster that was introduced in the beginning of this millennium and like the new El Primero 410 it featured a triple calendar, a moon phase indication and of course the legendary chronograph.

The movement is stylish replica Zenith’s iconic caliber 410, which i an integrated chronograph movement with a column wheel to actuate the chronograph’s functions. First produced in 1969, the El Primero is still considered by many the best mechanical chronograph movement. It’s escapement vibrates at 36,000 vibrations per hour, or 10 ticks per second. The calibre 410 sports 31 rubies, 354 parts, a triple calendar (month, day, date), a moonphase, 50 hours of power reserve, and of course the chronograph with 30-minute and 12-hour registers. This automatically wound beauty can be observed through the sapphire crystal in the case back.

Zenith El Primero 410

The El Primero movement sets itself apart from the herd of mechanical chronographs with automatic winding. First of all, it’s an integrated chronograph, meaning that there is no base movement with a chronograph module atop. It utilizes a column wheel to start, stop and reset the chronograph’s functions, which is considered by many a sign of classic replica watch-making. It has a hi-beat rate of 36,000 vibrations per hour, making it possible to measure time intervals with a precision of 1/10th of a second. Last but not least, it has 50 hours of power reserve, which is several hours more than its competitors.

The El Primero chronograph is also a relatively thin movement with just 6.60 mm in height. Compare that to two other important and frequently used automatic chronographs: the Valjoux 7750 measures 7.90 mm in height and the Lemania 5100 is 8.25 mm in height. The El Primero 410 is 1.10mm thicker because of the triple calendar and moon phase module and measures 7.70 mm in height.

The dial side shows the triple calendar indications: day, date, month and additionally a moon phase that is shown in the 12-hour chronograph register sub dial, at the 6 o’clock position.

Zenith El Primero 410

Some specifications:

  • Movement: Zenith El Primero 410, automatic winding, 50-hours of power reserve, 390 components, 31 jewels, 36,000 vibrations per hour (5Hz)
  • Functions: chronograph with 30-minute and 12-hour register, day of the week, date, month and moon phase
  • Case: stainless steel, 42 mm in diameter, 12.75mm in height, box-shaped sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on both sides, sapphire crystal in case back, water resistant to 50 meters
  • Strap: brown alligator leather strap with protective rubber lining and a stainless steel buckle with triple folding clasp

The El Primero 410 will come at a price of just over  €8,000 Euro or $ 11,000 USD. Isn’t it a beauty?

Zenith El Primero 410

Please visit the Zenith Replica Watches website for more information.

Categories
Zenith Replica

BASELWORLD 2013 : Replcia Zenith’s Christoph ColombHurricane

ZenithColombHurricane1

Baselworld releases often have the cheap replica watch industry equivalent of a restaurant’s ‘soft opening’ up to months before the actual fair, and so it was at the end of January 2013 in Geneva when I visited Zenith’s temporary digs and saw one of this year’s official Basel releases, the Christoph Colomb Hurricane.

The very distinctive Christoph Colomb complications fall under Zenith’s ‘Acaemy’ collection, and have the large fishbowl like sapphire crystal protrusion at 6 o’clock which worries anyone who sees the replica watch (potential ding magnet). Its purpose, however, is not just to be quirky – Zenith have suspended the escapement and balance in a cage so that it looks like a floating mechanical ball, to try and increase the preciseness of time measurement – no matter how the wearer moves his or her wrist, you will see that the balance will always move back to a horizontal position – it is called a ‘cardanic suspension’, or ‘gimbal’.

As well as the gimbal, the Hurricane also utilises a chain-and-fusée, visible underneath the main hour and minutes subdial, to control variations and stabilise force as the mainspring unwinds. Although it seems to be popping up here and there of late, a chain-and-fusée is a rare beast and technical feat; and it took Zenith some two years to get it right for the Hurricane. The chain is made of 585 components and is 18cm long. The movement inside it is the manual wind El Primero 8805, with a fifty hour power reserve.

The hours and minutes are at 12 o’clock, small seconds at 9 o’clock, and power reserve indicator at 3 o’clock. The hour markers are black lacquer and the hands blued steel. The 45 mm rose gold case has an open case back for the owner’s viewing pleasure.