Category: Urwerk Replica

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URWERK Presents the UR-105T-Rex

In 2014 Urwerk introduced the manual-wind UR-105 via the Iron Knight and Dark Night, followed in 2015 by the automatic UR-105 TA (Turbine Automatic) Knight, whose movement is regulated via dual air turbines visible on its back. There were then some rather perplexing (to me) bright coloured versions in orange and yellow. I rather think that you either ‘got’ the colours or you didn’t, and not being one for yellow or orange as a general rule, I fell into the latter camp.

 

Inside is the same automatic Calibre 5.02 UR as used in the TA model, with a 48-hour power reserve. The time display features four satellites each showing three hour intervals, driven by a carousel rotating device and running over a 60-minute track. The satellite hours are bronze beryllium Geneva crosses and the carrousel and three mainplates in brass. Markers, dials, indexes and satellites all have Super-LumiNova.Rolex Day-Date Replica

On the case back we find Urwerk’s usual ‘interactive’ component to their replica watches – turbines that allow regulation of the winding of the replica watch (with three positions: ‘FULL’, ‘REDUCED’ and ‘STOP’).

This bronze bezel is decorated, bead-blasted, micro-blasted, oxidised with a brush. Yes the patina on it has been quite specifically created, although of course if you end up being one of the 22 owners of this piece, the patina’s development will be entirely up to you.

In 2016 Urwerk has released perhaps an equally perplexing (but in a different way and probably to a different subset of people) variant – the UR-105 T Rex. This is one of two (the other being the EMC Time Hunter) that they launched at SIHH 2016.

This new URWERK UR-105 T-Rex is based on the UR-105 TA, with major cosmetic changes. Pretty much as ‘major’ as is possible. Rather than steel, titanium, gold or PVD, it’s scaled up to full reptile mode and gone bronze.

For the T-Rex the bezel (and I almost hesitate to call it this, in a way, as it somehow seems inadequate a descriptor when it comes to Urwerk at times) covers most of the top of the case, with only the 60-minute track and the lower part of the trademark satellites, visible. It has been meticulously engraved with a pattern intended to mimic that of a T-Rex of course. The rest of the case remains black PVD-coated titanium.

 

Having seen the replica watch in the press release before I handled it I have to say that it is better in the metal. I wasn’t sure how I felt about it when I saw the initial photos, but ended up being rather taken with it, especially in terms of how tactile it is. There’s something quite engaging about it ‘in the metal’. Nonetheless, this is clearly a replica watch that will generate quite polarised views. However, if we take it as the latest addition in the ‘bronze age’ of replica watches, it’s definitely one of the (if not ‘the’) more interesting manifestations.

Although a rather large 39.50mm x 53mm x 16.800mm on its black alligator strap with PVD titanium buckle, it sits surprisingly easily on the wrist, as you can see above (@initialjh’s wrist errs a little on the smaller side). The price is 65,000 CHF before taxes.

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Urwerk Replica

Replica URWERK : the UR-105T-Rex

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cheap replica watches

In 2014 Urwerk introduced the manual-wind UR-105 via the Iron Knight and Dark Night, followed in 2015 by the automatic UR-105 TA (Turbine Automatic) Knight, whose movement is regulated via dual air turbines visible on its back. There were then some rather perplexing (to me) bright coloured versions in orange and yellow. I rather think that you either ‘got’ the colours or you didn’t, and not being one for yellow or orange as a general rule, I fell into the latter camp.

In 2016 Urwerk has released perhaps an equally perplexing (but in a different way and probably to a different subset of people) variant – the UR-105 T Rex. This is one of two (the other being the EMC Time Hunter) that they launched at SIHH 2016.

This new URWERK UR-105 T-Rex is based on the UR-105 TA, with major cosmetic changes. Pretty much as ‘major’ as is possible. Rather than steel, titanium, gold or PVD, it’s scaled up to full reptile mode and gone bronze.

This bronze bezel is decorated, bead-blasted, micro-blasted, oxidised with a brush. Yes the patina on it has been quite specifically created, although of course if you end up being one of the 22 owners of this piece, the patina’s development will be entirely up to you.

For the T-Rex the bezel covers most of the top of the case, with only the 60-minute track and the lower part of the trademark satellites, visible. It has been meticulously engraved with a pattern intended to mimic that of a T-Rex of course. The rest of the case remains black PVD-coated titanium.

Inside is the same automatic Calibre 5.02 UR as used in the TA model, with a 48-hour power reserve. The time display features four satellites each showing three hour intervals, driven by a carousel rotating device and running over a 60-minute track. The satellite hours are bronze beryllium Geneva crosses and the carrousel and three mainplates in brass. Markers, dials, indexes and satellites all have Super-LumiNova.

On the case back we find Urwerk’s usual ‘interactive’ component to their cheap replica watches – turbines that allow regulation of the winding of the replica watch (with three positions: ‘FULL’, ‘REDUCED’ and ‘STOP’).

Having seen the replica watch in the press release before I handled it I have to say that it is better in the metal. I wasn’t sure how I felt about it when I saw the initial photos, but ended up being rather taken with it, especially in terms of how tactile it is. There’s something quite engaging about it ‘in the metal’. Nonetheless, this is clearly a replica watch that will generate quite polarised views. However, if we take it as the latest addition in the ‘bronze age’ of replica watches, it’s definitely one of the (if not ‘the’) more interesting manifestations.

Although a rather large 39.50mm x 53mm x 16.800mm on its black alligator strap with PVD titanium buckle, it sits surprisingly easily on the wrist, as you can see above (@initialjh’s wrist errs a little on the smaller side). The price is 65,000 CHF before taxes.

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HANDS-ON Urwerk’s Tweedyside Replica Watch

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Late last year Urwerk announced what was a surprisingly ‘old-fashioned’ limited edition of their UR-110. Aptly announced during London’s Salon QP, team Urwerk held a private launch of the UR-110 ‘Eastwood’, a collaboration with English tailor Timothy Everest. I had the chance to see these new pieces at their ‘salon’ in Geneva a few weeks ago.

For those who are unfamiliar with this luxury replica watch and for those unfamiliar with the brand, I did an interview with the brand’s co-founder Felix Baumgartner which you can read here that will give you an idea of Urwerk’s approach to replica watchmaking and why it has been such an influential brand despite its very small size.

So why did Urwerk’s Felix Baumgartner and Martin Frei decide on such an unlikely partnership? As those who have ventured into the world of independent replica watchmaking know, relationships and collaborations often have a very personal basis. The Urwerk duo have known Everest for a number of years, wear his suits, and Everest himself wears an UR-103, so perhaps in a way it makes sense for the UR-110 to depart the collection with such a personal piece.

When Baumgartner and Frei started developing the ‘Eastwood’, they decided to use an unusual material for the bezel, wood. This isn’t by any means the only replica watch wood, and it doesn’t pretend to be, but it sustainably sourced Macassar Ebony (Diospyros celebica) from Indonesia. Macassar Ebony wood is streaky brown and black, nearly always wide-striped, highly valued, and are seen mostly commonly in some guitars and furniture. It is a scarce, highly valued, and is difficult to work with due to its high density, blunting effect on equipment used to cut it, grain, and propensity to spliting during the drying process.

Basically, if you were going to choose a wood with which to create a bezel insert and wanted to make your life easy, this is not the wood you would choose. Urwerk aren’t ones to take the easy option. Also, when you see these bezels in the flesh, handle them, run your hands over the wood and its texture, see its warm, you can’t help but think that such a let’s face it, wacky idea to combine an Urwerk with of all things an obscure wood from Indonesia, really works.

The 47mm x 51mm x 16mm case is Grade 5 titanium, with five pieces being made in the Macassar ebony bezel and five in South African Red (also called ‘pink’) Ivory wood, which grows predominantly in Zimbabwe, Mozambique, South Africa, is protected and sustainably maintained in South Africa.

So why tweed? As they tell the tale – it was a case of simply discussing options in terms of tailoring methods, fabrics, durability. They decided on tweed and then, perhaps showing a traditionalist streak that might not be expected in a brand like Urwerk, they went for a Prince of Wales check as worn by the Duke of Windsor and a Chevron tweed. To wear, the straps are incredibly comfortable and make an otherwise very bulky replica watch sit a lot easier on the wrist, but bearing in mind that it is a woollen strap, it is for Switzerland (or London) in winter, but not so much for an Australian summer…

For those unfamiliar with how to tell the time on the UR-110, with its revolving satellites, the time is on the right – there are three ‘planetary’ satellites for the hour that will travel along a minute (0 to 60) indicator in a downward motion. Each satellite takes its turn to indicate the hour ‘)(and thus the minute) as it travels down the right hand side.

As well as indicating the hours and minutes, the UR-110 has, of course, the ‘interactive’ component so beloved of the brand, with the ‘oil change’ indicator reminding you when you need to service it.

The origins of the rather unusual model name of ‘Eastwood’ Apparently it’s a riff both on the wood theme and Clint.

You can read about Urwerk’s last new model the EMC, the black version of which won at award at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) here.

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Urwerk Replica

HANDS-ON Urwerk’s ZeitDevice Replica Watch Replcia

UrwerkZeitDevice1

When is a pocket replica watch not a pocket replica watch? When even its creators don’t use the term but call it “a grand über complication”. Oh, and there’s also when the ‘pocket’ replica watch can’t actually fit into a pocket.

We are speaking of Urwerk of course, and the UR-1001 Zeit Device, a time ‘device’ which covers a timekeeping expanse from a second to a thousand years.

As Felix Baumgartner and Martin Frei put it – “With Zeit Device we could allow ourselves carte blanche and created a larger playground for our imaginations… and then filled it with all of our complications and indications.”

The first thing you’ll notice when picking up this pocket replica watch is its weight and size. It measures a rather mindboggling 106mm x 62mm x 23mm and you can see, in the comparative photo above, exactly why it is more ‘device’ and less ‘pocket replica watch’.

The second thing you’ll notice is that it has all the hallmarks of an Urwerk piece, especially the use of satellite systems – in this instance, orbiting satellites for hours and day, as well as retrograde hands. In fact the Zeit Device has ten complications : the satellite hours and months, running seconds, retrograde indicator for minutes, indicators for date, day/ night, power reserve (39 hours), ‘oil’ (i.e. service) change (every five years), 100 years and 1000 year. The calendar aspect is what (apart from the size) makes it special compared to the other Urwerk complications.

So what is the point of having 100 and 1,000 year indicators other than ‘because you can’? They show how long the pocket replica watch has been running for, although its service is required a good deal before the first 100 years is up. The 100-year indicator advances in 5 year increments; both it and the 1000-year register the total running time of the movement. When the hand reaches the 100-year mark, the small pointer at the bottom of the linear 1000-year indicator on the left will move an increment.

The method (revolving hands0 for telling the hours and minutes is now used to indicate the month and the date on the linear scale. The revolving satellite calendar is similar to the hour satellite, with months and date replacing hours and minutes.

The hour satellite consists of a rotating central carousel which supports three hour satellites, each of the three with four hours allocated to it on individual sides. Hours and minutes can be set backwards without affecting the calendar function.

The retrograde minute hand is fixed to a ring around the circumference of the satellite. This ring is moved along a guide rail by the hour satellite. When the minute hand gets to the end of the rail at 60 minutes, the star-cams trip over to release the minute hand, which springs back to zero at the start of the scale.

Turning the UR-1001 over and flipping over the protective cover reveals the “Oil Change”, 100-year and 1000-year indicators. The first of these, as mentioned, will tell you when a service is due. During years 1-3 it will be green and from 3-5, red of course. Inside is the Urwerk calibre UR-10.01 manually wound movement.

There is Super-LumiNova on the dial’s markers, and a rotating disc day/ night indicator is marked with black Super-LumiNova for night, white brushed-ruthenium for day. Dawn and dusk are a combination of both.

So, how do you operate the Device? There is a three-position winding crown. Position 1 is winding, position 2 is for the month and date, and position three sets hours and minutes.

The combined winder and desk display case of the Zeit Device is in polished solid walnut with buffalo leather lining. Every 10 or 15 minutes – the interval is adjustable according to whether the timepiece requires fast winding or maintaining winding – the Zeit Device is rotated 185° and slowly oscillates to rest, causing a winding rotor to charge the mainspring.

A use of AlTiN steel and titanium case, PE-CVD and DLC treated mainplate, baseplate, dials and satellite complications means that it has a no-nonsense high-end industrial feel to it. With its looks and weight, this is almost like a handy horological weapon; it certainly looks as though it can handle a bit of rough and tumble.

Made in an edition of 8, the Zeit Device is a rare beast to come across. This one was kindly shown to me at Marcus Replica Watches in London, where I also saw this piece. Thanks go to Liam for the opportunity to see a timepiece that I never thought I’d see ‘in the metal’.